Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.7
no.3
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pp.63-74
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2005
The cinema costume designers carry out the creative works in a different way from the commercial fashion designers generating the new trends by season or year for a number of people. Costumes created by the cinema costume designers are for the people acting in the film screens such as heroes, heroines or extras. The cinema costume designers should not miss the overall flow of a cinema. Moreover, the prominent designers have to devise the costumes livening up every scene. Most cinemas with the prudent interests and attention on the costumes are favored by the public and gain the commercial success. In particular, the cinemas emphasize the visual effects such as setting, lighting and computer graphics and require the substantial budgets for preparing the costumes regardless of genres, while all other industrial fields will be the same. Such efforts are to deliver the meaning and aesthetics that the cinemas intend to show through the designs, colors and textures of costumes closed up in each scene. The costumes in cinemas are another linguistic system and have the symbolic form of compound and meaningful communication used by the directors. The costume design is required to produce the costumes that liven up the characteristics of heroes or heroines as well as to fit for the general artistic effects of films. Moreover, it has to express the characters in the films using the costumes suitable for the film genres. Cinema costumes are defined and refined, and the process can be angst-ridden. Each frame of film is a canvas and has its own proscenuium. Every garment worn in a theatrical production is a costume. Before an actor speaks, his wardrobe has already spoken for him. From the most obvious and flamboyant show clothing, to contemporary clothes using subtle design language, costume design plays an integral part in every film production. Costume design is a vital tool for storytelling. Costumes have always had enormous influence on world fashion. Costume designers are passionate storytellers, historians, social commentators, humorists, psychologists, trendsetters and magicians who can conjure glamour and codify icons. Costume designers are project managers who have to juggle ever-decreasing wardrobe budgets and battle the economic realities of film production. Costume designers are artists with pen and paper, form, fabric and the human figure.
This study is purposed to analyze the characteristics of different images of Hollywood movie costumes centering on the costumes of actresses who are the fashion leaders creating fashions especially focusing on those in 1930s. The scope of this study covers the movie costumes selected from the movies ranging from 1930 to 1939 centering on the Hollywood movies produced and released by large movie distributors and the movie costumes of heroins that exerted great influences on the culture and clothing history of 1930s were examined. As for the methods of study, visual data and image data including movies were collected through related dissertations, articles in journals, internet sites relating to movies and photos and we have analyzed each of the characteristics of the movie costumes appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. Firstly, ethnic images were the reflection of orientalism that was popular in the fashion of the age with the purpose of highlighting the exotic appearances of the actresses and were the cases where the characters of the actresses had to be expressed in ethnic styles due to the spatial backgrounds of movie works. Secondly, glamorous images were highlighting the appeals of plump breasts, shoulder lines and the bodies constricted in the middle and the Hollywood movie costumes in 1930s. The smooth and flowing silhouettes of the heroins of the age were mainly long and slim patterns and female's images were expressed by highlighting the beauty of leg lines or especially by halter neck evening dresses that exposed backs and covered breasts. Thirdly, mannish images reflected tough images of males in order to further highlight the reality of the characters of the heroins of the age pursuant to the emergence of the opinions advocating the equality between men and women.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.15
no.3
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pp.157-166
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2013
Features of the Occult Culture is preferred that powers, demons, magic, magical, unreal etc. Currently Occultism is getting a lot of attention to the public in the society, culture, arts and the play. Fashion in the period that includes all circumstances is a field. Thus, the current Occultism and modern fashion will also be related. Objective of the study is to figure out the form and meaning of Occultism in Contemporary Fashion. An example of the best of contemporary trends is the mass media, For this reason, Occultism symptoms range of case studies mess media(television programs and film). Research on contemporary fashion range was used 2000-2013 fashion collection extracted from the data. Represented in the mess media features of occultism is 'Witchcraft and Sorcery' and 'Death and Horror'. They are story of wizard exorcism and unnatural horror. In the 21st century, modern people are enjoying occultism, and occultism is the one of the entertainment. Expressed in contemporary fashion features of occultism is 'Super-human organism', that is out of the human body, ignoring body shape and type of transformed organism. Second distinction is 'Ghost', they are something like the dark and dismal, shape of ghosts and look pale. Third distinction is 'Neo-Macabre', it is the shape of the skeleton. Skeleton symbolizing the end of life, skeleton to express Occultism has emerged as the most representative motifs in the 21st century fashion. Occultism expressed in fashion is a gothic fantasy, because the fashion can be expressed. In addition, people in modern society wants to be against the norms and taboos. The trend Occult-culture is a symbol of the public's desires and needs.
The purpose of this research is to analyze expressional traits and meanings of hommage expressed in the 2000s' fashion, based on studies of film, art, and design areas. For achieving the purpose, this research surveys related research works and performs a demonstrative analysis of fashion collection photographs. The scope of this study is from 2000 to 2011. The results are as follows: First, the term of hommage is generally used to mean any show of respect publicly to someone or something one feels indebted. Second, artists and fashion designers pay hommage to various objects to show respect and love, and they also empathize with them. Hommage works are recreated ones, not just simply copied or repeated ones. They are new but familiar. Third, expressional traits of hommage in the fashion of 2000s are categorized into reinterpretation, insertion, inclusiveness, and symbolization. The internal meanings are respect and love, communication and empathizing, interaction with art, and recreation. In conclusion, by using hommage technique, fashion designers in the 2000s create something new with their own experiences and creativities while pursuing the timeless values.
The purpose of this research is to systemize the fashion digital storytelling by analyzing the communication method and its elements, and extracting the characteristics and processes of digital storytelling. Based on the previous study on the characteristics and types of storytelling the following things have been researched: 1) the process of digital storytelling in the communication process, 2) the concept and the feature of the academia of digital storytelling 3) storytelling in the document research. On the groundwork of the document research, we were able to sort out the various types, and formed a system of the features in the fashion digital storytelling cases, mainly in the four collections (Milan, Paris, London, New York) from 2000's to recent years of 2010. The types of fashion digital storytelling are episode type, narrative type, and creative type. The characteristics of each of the types are as follows. Firstly, the episode type communicates through the digital media based on the information or fact of the fashion designer brand. Secondly, narrative type communicates with the consumers using previous literature or an existing idea of the original cultural form that is rearranged in digital story expressed by the digital media. Lastly, creative type makes the designer's and consumer's susceptibility and creativity communicate through the newly made story, which expresses the unique originality of the designer. It seems that the cases and studies of using the fashion digital storytelling will increase because of its short history and lack of the case study. Fashion designer brands will show their brand image using the digital storytelling because they are able to better express originality, creativity and imagination of the fashion designer, which were factors that could not be conveyed through fashion alone.
The purpose of this study is to find trends in new media fashion content by analyzing the fashion content of the official Instagram accounts of domestic fashion magazines that are being transformed by digital media. The framework for these analysis of fashion content type and methods of production is based on one used in an earlier research project. Empirical analysis is conducted on Vogue Korea's official Instagram accounts, using the highest number of major views as the secondary measure of interest. After screening for fashion content in posts on the Vogue Korea account for four months, 291 short video postings were extracted to analyze the number of views the postings received. The results were categorized as 'star', 'show/exhibition', 'product', 'shop', 'fashion film', 'designer', or 'event', included in the data are the number of postings by type and the number of views by post. Based on the characteristics of the creator and the editing, the posts were classified into 'professional production highlight', 'professional production private', 'UCC' or 'GIF' videos, the number of views per post were also collected. The research results show different levels of interest depending on the type of fashion content, and also on the way the videos were produced. The study also investigated how the combination of these two factors affects interest. When producing a new media fashion content, combining a 'star' type post with 'professional production private' video content was most popular. The selection of production method is therefore important even given the same type of content.
This study analyzed consumers' awareness, preference levels, and effect expectations in relation to fashion art marketing according to the types of such marketing (collaboration between fashion and art in fashion products, called product collaboration; sponsorship for art foundation; artist sponsorship; collaboration for the design of a space/store/display; ad/promotional film collaboration). The study also investigated the influence of consumers' attitudes toward fashion art marketing with respect to purchase intention. The study was implemented through a descriptive survey method. The sample consisted of 342 men and women between the ages of 20 and 45. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, and multiple regression analysis. The results revealed that there are significant differences in consumers' awareness and effect expectations in relation to fashion art marketing according to the types of fashion art marketing activities. While no differences were found in preference levels according to the type of fashion art marketing, all the types of art marketing showed overall high levels of preference. The collaboration between fashion and art in fashion products, which had the highest awareness, also showed the highest expected effect. In all the types of fashion art marketing, consumers' attitudes had a significant influence on purchase intention. In cases of sponsorship for an art foundation, artist sponsorship, collaboration for the design of a space/store/display, and ad/promotional films, consumers' effect expectations had the most significant influence on purchase intention, followed by preference and awareness level. These results could be used to provide appropriate proposals to fashion brands when they plan to set up an art marketing strategy.
This study provides the structural design for commercialization of outdoor breathable waterproof jackets for men merged with solar cells to enable emergency communications, utilizing wearable devices to develop smart clothing and extend convenience in everyday life. The most popular waterproof jacket with two-layer and three-layer moisture-permeable waterproof fabric was selected, based on previous studies of functional outdoor jackets and style with affinity to fashion. Flexible solar films suitable for clothing were embedded in the lining of the sleeve area and hood visor, and printed film was developed to balance weight and design. High performance smart solar jackets have application to expanding the use of smart phones for everyday and emergency communication, and leisure and outdoor sports activities, as well as day-to-day functions as a waterproof breathable outdoor jacket for men. It is also eco-friendly. Satisfying both the aesthetic and practical, a solar cell jacket with smart features, is an innovative tool for use in a variety of outdoor activities, and a fashion-forward commercialized product.
This study examines the unique characteristics of the color red in relation to images used in areas other than fashion, such as the film or advertising industries. Based on analysed results, the aim was to identify red-colored costume's images expressed in contemporary fashion. Analysis of collected data has lead to four main findings. First, the fashion in which the red color is used delivers a voluptuous image when combined with a skinny silhouette or glossy and transparent dress material, arousing a strong sexual desire in a direct or indirect manner when exposing the body in public. Second, the fashion emphasizes a simplified appearance by minimizing the steps of the production process such as cutting, sewing, and decoration without artificial structural lines and creates an image of simplicity through a single red color or tone-in-tone colorations. Third, the red color, which carries a simultaneous negative and pleasure image represents grotesque playfulness by distorting or exaggerating clothes, transforming the body in disregard of clothing construction, or introducing unnatural makeup. Fourth, in combination of simple and clinging shapes, a material feeling tough like leather and an intensely noticeable red tone, promotes the feminine rather than masculine quality in a splendid, aggressive sporty and active "alpha girl" image.
Cultural hybridization and global cross-fertilization, begun since the 1990s, mean the hybrid mixture of the low-class popular arts and the high-class fine arts and have found expression in intertextuality by means of the thinking system of de-constructuralist post-modernism. This study was intended to investigate the artistic intertextuality between fashion and art frontiere, especially between such fields as 'animation', 'music', and 'performing arts' and 'fashion', which shows the greatest characteristic of the phenomenon that the non-mainstream culture flows into the mainstream culture. It also aimed to investigate the intertextuality between 'technology' and 'fashion' as the delivery room of the youth culture and copycat culture due to the benefit of technologies since the 20th-century digital revolution. Animation as the neo-pop art with the popular code coming to the forefront in the 21th century integrated high-class fashion and low-class fashion into one through the combination of fashion and humor, and the musical element referring to the social difference of the cultural field and the social strata is becoming the 21th-century fashion icon through its fusion with the pictorial tendency along with the leisure-time life of the non-mainstream strata. In terms of intertextuality in performing arts, fashion style performs an important role in the presentation of performing arts and since the de-construction of the fin-de-ciecle form and its fusion with media have taken place, fashion works become and element of the origin that has an influence on a series of film, dance, dramatic elements and the like. The paradigm of technology made it socially and culturally possible to achieve the architecture of clothing system necessary for fashionable technical clothing by allowing the possibility of imitation, the function of technology to form popular culture. The intertextual tendency in the 21th-century fashion began from the de-constructive phenomenon of existing norms and now takes the multicultural character of surpassing a certain domain or concept. And it positions itself as the total art of spearheading the low-class culture and the non-mainstream culture as the hybrid domain of mainstream and non-mainstream cultures or high-class and low-class cultures.
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