• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.326-338
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• 2007

This paper examines the works produced from 2000, the first year of the new millenium, to the late 2006 with a focus on those of Jean Paul Gaultier, a representative designer of deconstruction, in an effort to determine the aesthetic characters of deconstructional fashion. In this context, this paper deals with the theoretical study on the concepts and features of deconstruction as a part of analysis into its fashion using the works of Gaultier as a major source viewed to typically demonstrate the deconstructional characters of fashion. For this purpose, a survey was conducted to 155 works of Gaultier featured from 2001 to 2006 mostly in Vogue, the popular and influencing magazine of the USA(39 pieces in 2001, 30 in 2002, 29 in 2003, 23 in 2004, 12 in 2005 and 22 in 2006, respectively). In particular, 106 fashion pictures were put to analysis as they seemed to represent deconstruction intensively. The deconstructional characters of his works were examined in the categories of difference, inter-meaning, inter-textuality and decomposition on the basis of preceding studies, which resulted in the following outcomes: First, difference was found in 38 works out of 106 images, accounting for 36%, the biggest frequency; Second, inter-meaning accounted for 33% with 35 pieces, most frequently next to difference; Third, inter-textuality followed inter-meaning with 17 images or 15% in terms of frequency; Fourth, decomposition was revealed in 16 images in the same ratio of 15% as inter-textuality.

• 한국융합학회논문지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.109-117
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• 2020

본 연구의 목적은 최근 패션에서 사용하는 타이포그래피 표현을 개념 미술의 관점에서 분석하고 의미를 밝히는 것이다. 이를 위해 연구의 주요 개념인 타이포그래피와 개념 미술을 이론적으로 고찰하고 개념 미술의 표현 특징인 레디메이드(ready-made), 자료 형식(documentation), 개입(intervention), 언어를 분석의 틀로 패션 타이포그래피에 적용하였다. 결과 레디메이드는 타 브랜드의 시각적 정체성을 차용하거나 변형하는 방식으로 나타나며 자료 형식은 제품에 동어 반복적 혹은 모순적 텍스트를 병치하는 방식으로 활용된다. 개입은 맥락적으로 무관한 브랜드의 시각 아이덴티티를 차용할 때 더욱 복잡한 층위의 의미를 발생시키며 나타난다. 언어는 환경, 윤리적 소비, 젠더 문제 등 동시대의 사회적 이슈에 대한 발언의 도구로 사용된다. 본 연구를 통해 패션 디자인에서 타이포그래피는 효과적인 마케팅 수단이자 사회적 발언의 매체가 될 수 있으며 흥미로운 시각 표현 방식이자 새로운 의미를 발생시킬 수 있는 가능성으로 확대될 수 있음을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.294-301
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• 2013

Sustainable fashion & textile is more than eco fashion & textile with the concepts for the next generation's happiness, prosumer value, and community responsibility. This study considers methods to enhance fashion and textile industry sustainability in accordance to clothing types (material, product life and washing properties) and to investigate company strategies. Company strategies are of redesign with stock, volunteering & measuring trash amount, participation by evaluation stores, clerk environment education, hiring QC specialist and reinforcing partnerships. For the case of daily innerwear, throwing away and recycling is more efficient for the environment than laundering in the consumer use stage; subsequently, we recommend the use of polypropylene fiber (a cheap and an eco-friendly material) for this item that can be recycled and reformed after use. For the case of single layer clothing (such as sportswear, blouse or pants) we recommend the use of thermoplastic materials with welding or fuse assembling technology instead of a sewing method of seams as well as the recycle design that is simply melted and reformed into new clothing without an after use dissembling process. Secondhand use or resale is suitable for denim/jean items if the clothing has a storytelling or private history tag. Lastly, module-type jacket or coat shows the variety of styles with one clothing worn w/o collar or sleeve details and changed into vest/coat; in addition, it is possible to add or partly tear off some jacket/coat fibers of the felt material to reform it into a new design.

• 복식
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• 제60권9호
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• pp.95-105
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is in allowing thinking about the design development process which is more towards the visual and perceptional aspects related to the form structure by more diverse methods by typology of idea generation. To accomplish such goal, researches in the psychology, pedagogy, engineering, and consilient studies as well as related precedent researches and reference data in architecture, promotion, industrial design, and other art fields and fashion designs are collected and analyzed to see the study trend. In addition, in the content analysis method based on such, the idea generation was classified into types in consideration of relevancy, usefulness, and suitability with fashion. First, a concentrated thinking of a limited space is a method of leading an optimal design by focusing on solving the cause of a problem within a space which generates the problem. Second, plan thinking per section of structure decomposition is a method of dismantling the design problems per organization, thinking type, factor, and characteristic into sub-modules to re-interpret and re-organize the problems in various aspects. Third, an associated thinking through interpreting relationships among vocabularies is a method of selecting the marginal languages that allow a person to come up with concrete forms and the key words related to fashion to import the characteristics and attributes of the marginal languages and thematic relationship between the two terms to search the relevancy. Lastly, the free integrated thinking of language extension is a method of groping integration between other fields and fashion by free integration among the extended terms by extending the vocabularies through inferring metaphorical expressions founded upon individual's memories or knowledge concepts regarding theme words that do not allow concrete forms to come up.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.36-48
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• 2012

This study intends to provide fundamental data to develop creative high-value designs, proving that the cut-out technique, a decorative element of fashion design, can be used to express various visual effects. The author performed a literature review of such publications as Gap Press, Fashion News, and Mode & Mode from 2001S/S to 2010S/S, referring to Internet data to empirically analyze the cut-out technique in contemporary fashion. The study found that the cut-out design is effective overall, but is best suited for one-piece designs and for partial rather than whole items of clothing. The basic motif of the cut-out is a geometrical pattern based on a line, a tear, or is shapeless. The cut-out design is mostly shown as an overall pattern or as a symmetrical shape. Analysis shows that the characteristics of the contemporary fashion utilizing the cut-out technique are as follow: First, the cut-out technique exposes the curves of a woman's body in a direct or indirect way, thereby emphasizing her sexuality and maximizing the value of female beauty. Second, through the cut-out technique, we can highlight the various types of space formed by the technique and repeated patterns; we may also elaborate on single-patterned laser-cut designs, which will show that the particular surface effect of the material can strongly impact the attractiveness of the design through emphasis and decoration. Third, damaging or destroying clothes on purpose, showing surprising concepts through optical illusions, and expressing humor by ignoring existing clothing styles show our willingness to escape from traditional or obvious design ideas, as well as demonstrating individuality and playfulness.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.39-56
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to observe the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design, examine the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design in the collections of Jacquemus, and analyze their internal meanings. For research, observations were made based on the concepts and expressive characteristics of Deconstruction through prior research and literary review, and analysis was conducted focusing on the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction. The scope of analysis included a total of 605 photographs collected from a total of 17 season collections of Jacquemus from the 2013 S/S to the 2021 S/S season. The results are as follows. First, the Neo-Deconstruction of Jacquemus expresses the youth culture using bright images such as diverse colors and patterns with 'positive playfulness' and pass on positive messages with deconstructive and playful forms, such as exaggeration and reduction and recombination and reconstitution. Second, with tendencies of 'symbolic receptivity', Jacquemus gained inspiration from his own life, memories, and hometown, and attempted to express the street women of places such as southern France, Paris, and Monaco in a number of collections. Also, he proposed designs that can be worn easily by anyone, regardless of gender, and as plus size models began to become more common respect was given to the tastes and preferences of diverse individuals without distinctions based on body type or sexuality. Third, 'geometric simplicity' was generally expressed by pursuing simple and practical fashion with the addition of details, such as geometric forms including stripes or asymmetrical expressions centering around everyday material that is used in clothing. Fourth, with "open communication," Jacquemus constructed his identity by addressing the various needs of consumers based on social network services and continuously sharing his creative ideas with the public. He is gaining popularity in a unique way by responding quickly to the changing atmosphere of society.

• 한국정밀공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국정밀공학회 2005년도 춘계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.65-70
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• 2005

This paper introduces an approach to multi-layered product knowledge model for collaborative engineering environment. The participants in collaborative engineering want to share and reason product knowledge through internet without any heterogeneity and ambiguity. However the previous knowledge models are limited in providing those aspects. In this paper, the collaborative engineering domain is analyzed and then the product knowledge is organized into four levels such as product context model, product specific model, product design model and product manufacturing model. The four levels are represented by first-order logic in layered fashion. The concepts and the instances of a formal ontology are used for recursive representation of the four levels. The instances of the concepts of an upper level like product context model are considered as the concepts of an adjacent lower level like product specific model, and this mechanism is applied to the other levels. These logic representations are integrated with the schema and the instances of a relational database. OWL representation of the four levels is defined through the integration of the logic representation and OWL primitives. The four product knowledge models have their major representation according to the characteristics of each model. This approach enables engineer to share product knowledge through internet without any ambiguity and utilize it as basis for additional reasoning.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.165-176
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to understand the characteristics and concepts behind Design for Environment(DfE) and Environmental Management System(EMS). This study highlights the success of domestics and foreign corporations that have utilized DfE and EMS as well as explored how DfT based EMS is being used in domestic corporations. Although corporations acknowledge that using environmentally conscious designs provide them with a competitive edge, only 53.6% of fashion corporations have established the environmental policies and use such tools. Furthermore, only 41% use DfE strategies for operating their corporations.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.19-33
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• 2002

Consumer involvement is one of the most important concepts in target marketing. Marketing managers seeking repeat business and a long term relationship with their consumers must understand the process underlying product evaluation. Therefore, the objective of this study was to find out the relationships between consumer involvement and product performance. Judgement sampling method through survey was utilized to collect the data and the subjects were 614 university students. Factor analysis, reliability test, and regression were used to analyze the data. The research results showed that there were three dimensions of product performance, so called, ‘aesthetic’, ‘utilitarian’, and ‘socio-interactive’. Consumer involvement was positively related to all dimensions of product performance. Understanding of the relationship between consumer involvement and product performance would contribute to build useful marketing strategies.

• 복식
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• 제61권1호
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• pp.124-131
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• 2011

Modernity is commonly defined as a reflection of the features of modern society based on the historical experience of the West. As such, modernity includes involvement with political, economic, and social changes, a changing world-view, and changing trends in equality, gender roles, a desire for "the new," consumption, distribution based on mass production, and rational reform in fashion and dress. First and foremost, however, modernity in costume has been driven by the functional requirements of industrial capitalism. But while modernity has popularly been regarded as some sort of universal standard, in fact the West and the other societies have vastly different, unique, and particular experiences with their own respective histories of modernization. For this reason, cultural changes in the modernization process should be-indeed, must be-analyzed in the context of a country's own unique historical and cultural circumstances, rather than through the prism or strict adaptation of generalized Western concepts of modernization. Moreover, a "periodization" of the modernization of fashion and dress can be established by examining the characteristics of modernity in costume.