• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.147-162
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of Grotesque in Contemporary Fashion. The study selected the 1990's or after fashion material by the material of both $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\grave{a}}-porter$ collection and haute couture collection based on Europe. These days, the characteristics of grotesque have been categorized into four groups based on the theory of representative scholars of the Post Modernism era. The results are as follows. ${\cdot}$ The devilism creates shocking and destructive cruelty and fear by using frightening object and mysterious and devilish motif which symbolize the death of fashion ${\cdot}$ Hatred produces physical destroy of human body, anatomical expression inside human body, cruelty by naked sex expression, pains, cruel treatment, disillusion and unpleasantness, which have been caused by the disturbance and ideological confrontation of the society, and is said to be a kind of self-confession against dislike and fear of the disclosure of human existence. ${\cdot}$ Playfulness distorts and exaggerates clothes and human body forms, and produces abnormality and mystery because of vague sex identity. The playfulness of fashion can open fixed and closed world and lead it flexibly. ${\cdot}$ Heterogeneity is divided into both primitiveness and virtuality The primitiveness distorts or transforms human body through the human body decoration of primitive race, and expresses a grotesque form combining human being and other animals. It gives a question to the existence of alienated and suppressed life through the world. in which everything is mixed and not separated. The virtuality introduces not only cyborg form combining human being and machines but also state of the art technology factors, so that it emphasizes non-mechanical and non-human grotesque images.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.117-130
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• 2010

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of contrast color coordination through the analysis of modern woman fashion color coordination as they appear in the 'Collections' from '04 SS to '09/'10 AW. Data collection of 122 was done through review of '$pr{\hat{e}}t$-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of four cities; Milan, London, New York, Paris. Statistical analysis of frequency and qualitative interpretation of contrast color coordination characteristics were completed. The main findings were as follows; (1) The combined color type of 'red+blue' and 'yellow+blue' were the most frequently appeared in the same ratio, and followed by 'green+violet', 'red+yellow', 'green+orange', and 'orange+violet'. The contrast tone showed the most, and followed by the similarity and identity, and the type of tone harmony used differently according to the type of contrasting color combination. (2) The general characteristics of contrasting color harmony were as follows,; Some contrasting colors looked harmonious when used light colors and the contrast between light and dull colors which made the hues even more harmonious. Also combinations of dull colors which work well with other dull colors or vivid colors. Light & vivid color or light & dark color, however, often showed too much contrast and using two contrasting vivid colors presented awkward and restless look. When used one vivid color and one dark color, a little easier to looked at, but still not particularly elegance or effectively harmonious. (3) The types of contrasting color harmony showed some differences between seasons. Contrasting color harmony showed more frequently in the S/S collections than in A/W collections.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1844-1858
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• 2010

Ethnical tendency follows the current political, economical, and cultural influence eastwards, highlighting films, architecture and interiors as well as fashion. With this tendency, the ethnic outfits are expressed by various styles. This study analyzes the features of current ethnic styles with 1,535 ethnic image pieces from 2005 S/S to 2010 F/W of Pr${\^{e}}$t-${\'{a}}$-Porte in Paris and Milan. First, 'ethnic' is to refer to the distinct features of an ethnic group or a country. 'Ethnic look' refers to the adaptation or re-arrangement of various ethnic group's traditional costumes, dying, textile, patterns, color, silhouettes, and accessories. Second, the most popular ethnics in the modern fashion is the African style, followed by India, Japan, China, and Latin America in both collections. Third, the proportion of ethnics decreased, 2005 (14.9%), 2006 (12.8%) and 2007 (8.2%). In 2008 the proportion increased again. 2010 (27.3%) and compared 2010 to 2007, it increased by 20%. By season, S/S had 1.4 times more ethnic styles than F/W with the prevalence of African and Indian styles. Fourth, as of 2005, the ethnic style became colorful and went through changes to combine various images. This is from the polycentric tendency of co-existing various styles with a prevalence of low tone and various colors. It also shows warm colors in front to show a sense of nature.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.53-64
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• 2014

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of printed geometric patterns through the statistical & qualitative analysis of fashion appeared in contemporary female collections 2011 S/S to 2013 A/W. Data collection of 294 was done through review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three major fashion cities; Paris, Milan and NY. Statistical analysis of frequency was conducted. Also qualitative interpretation of natural print design' characteristics were completed. The main findings were as followed; 1,636 of the total 15,852 designs were printed patterns in 12 Collections and the occurrence rate of printed geometric patterns in three collections were 8.6% in Milan, 9.2% in Paris and 12.9% in N.Y. Most geometric patterns were the types of compact or medium density in a front patterns with a variety of sizes and mainly applied to the one piece dress or two piece clothing item combination styles. Formative Characteristics of printed geometric patterns were classified into four types. First, a variety of thicknesses and shapes, such as a line or a rectangle shape to take advantage of the types of the typical geometric pattern. Second types were using the motifs which inspired by geometric shapes such as point, circle star and other special geometric shapes and arranging them regularly with various sizes and density. The third was repeated particular motifs which based on complex and sophisticated mathematical formulas. Fourth were the specific diagram types of bold and free shapes or dividing the flat and arranging them without rules, or the combination type of various geometric motifs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.1-15
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• 2010

Fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier incorporated his own boundless and unique artistic Into his design of dance costumes, presenting an unobstructed imaginary world that was filled with freedom, which is no less than one would expect from the one-time enfant t${\'{e}}$rrible of Paris fashion. This creativity of Gaultier was made possible only through the fantastic partnership he formed with the French modern dancer, R${\'{e}}$gine Chopinot. Gaultier and Chopinot shared a deep-rooted sympathy that enabled their own artistic worlds to fully mingle and cross over, resulting in a doubled synergy of their talent and their fame. This study analyzed 11 dancing costumes created through the collaborated efforts of those two enfants t${\'{e}}$rribles, one from the fashion industry and the other from the world of dance. The following are the results of my analysis. Gaultier's dance costumes served as a artistic venue for experimenting with a number of creative inspirations lurking in his mind, which were sometimes expressed in pr${\^{e}}$t-${\`{a}}$-porter collections. Instead of the decorative and expressive features of conventional dance costumes, his was the revival of the dancer's persona as a human being, ablaze with individuality and uniqueness. He pointed out that there is no good in the distorted turturro's fixed point of view, and the great joy of an opposing way of thinking that overturned the established. Leotard material was used as a second skin by transforming it into various styles and delivering his message. In addition, obscene and sexual expressions were delivered in a direct narrative. His eccentric ideas provided entertainment while showing his oppositional way of thinking. In the dance, the effect of the costumes was doubled by the use of cumbersome and exaggerated accessories, which is generally forbidden in modern dance.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.30-47
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• 2006

La $d\'{e}marche$ et l'objet de cette recherche sont d'analyser, psychiquement, $th\'{e}oriquement$, les marques de $l'intersexualit\'{e}$ $pr\'{e}sentent$ en Orient et les $\'{e}l\'{e}ments$ intersexuels, binaires dans le $v\hat{e}tement$, et $\'{e}galement$ de comprendre $l'ambiguit\'{e}$ ou encore la fusion des $identit\'{e}s$ $sexu\'{e}es$, qui $pr\'{e}sente$ symboliquement a travers le $v\hat{e}tement$, dans la $soci\'{e}t\'{e}$ moderne. La base fondamentale dans la $th\'{e}orie$ de l'Orient est que l'univers se divise en Yin ($caract\`{e}re\;f\'{e}minin$) et Yang ($caract\`{e}re$ masculin) et que tout individu $poss\`{e}de$ $\'{e}galement$ ce couple, en quelque sorte un intersexuel qui s'ignore, avec des variations selon l'individu. En $d\'{e}finitive$, les compositions doubles des $\'{e}l\'{e}ments$ dans le $v\hat{e}tement$ oriental montraient $embl\'{e}matiquement$ nos $qualit\'{e}s$ doubles, masculins et $f\'{e}minins$, et les trois $\'{e}l\'{e}ments$ semblent primordiaux pour $l'\'{e}lucidation$ de la $pr\'{e}disposition$ du porteur : la couleur du tissu, sa forme et la texture du $v\hat{e}tement$. La mode d'auiourd'hui oscille entre masculin et $f\hat{e}minin$. Cette fusion de la mode semble le reflet d'une tendance intersexuelle et d'une fusion du genre. Ainsi, cette recherche est, $\grave{a}$ travers $l'\'{e}l\'{e}ment$ masculin ou $f\'{e}minin$ des $v\hat{e}tements$, pour tenter de discerner lesprit, l'intention et le $caract\`{e}re$ sexuel dominant du porteur.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.99-112
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to study India's traditional embroidery method, Mirror Work, and to evaluate the examples of contemporary costumes as well as the applications of art to clothing that have been influenced by this technique, in order to expand its usage for creation of a new fashion image. Research in the literature and application of works related to Mirror Work have demonstrated: First of all, as a traditional embroidery method that represents the folk art of India, Mirror Work displays unique methods used in different regions and the way that various methods and materials were combined by the use of mirrors, beads, and $appliqu{\acute{e}}$. Secondly, it was found that the presentation of Mirror Work in the $pr{\hat{e}}t$-a-porte collection is based on a traditional embroidery method using both developed materials and adapted methods to express traditional reproducibility, geometric simplicity, and aesthetic characteristics of complex decorations. Thirdly, new plasticity for art to wear clothing can be created through various methods aside from embroidery, for example by a technique of wrapping crochet laces and tapes around the mirror for decorative purposes. Based on these results it can be inferred that, from the perspective of multiple forms for decorations, Mirror Work shares multiple forms of personal aesthetic goals through the mirror's unique quality for expression and enhanced images of artistic decorative art. Also, the introduction of traditional materials and methods for today's folk art and traditional costumes can be the subject of unique aesthetic characteristics based on different perspectives of the recreation of tradition. Finally, it can further create a new plasticity within the globalization phenomena.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.141-158
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• 2016

The objective of this study is to examine the type and characteristics of hat, and also to analyze the formative characteristics of hats shown in $Pr{\hat{e}}t-{\grave{a}}$-porter Collection. The literature review focused on the relevant technical books and preceding researches while the case study targeted 1,561 photos of hats shown in the 'Donga TV Collection'. The research range was from the S/S season of 2012 to the F/W season of 2015/16. The results of this study are as follows. 1. A hat is composed of crown and brim. In the results of classifying hats based on it, there were 572 crown-type hats, 533 hat-type, 219 cap-type, 156 irregular-type, and 81 brim-type in the order. 2. For the crown-type hats, they were mainly like cylindrical-type, bell-type, dome-type, and circle-type, using colors like black, beige, brown, red, mustard, and grey, and materials like wool, fur, velvet, straw, and metal while they were decorated with bead or lace. 3. For the hat-type hats, they were mainly like bell-type, ladder-type, and hemisphere-type, using colors like peach, white, gold, brown, and khaki, and materials like silk, cotton, straw, and wool while they were decorated with feather and ribbon. 4. For the cap-type hats, they were mainly like hemisphere-type, using colors like white, black, khaki, mustard, and purple, and materials like fur, leather, and wool while they were decorated with wappen and chain. 5. For the irregular-type hats, they were mainly like sandglass-type, box-type, animal-type, trumpet-type, and bell-type, using colors like purple, orange, pink, yellow, and sky-blue, and materials like metal, feather, mesh, plastic, straw, and linen while they were decorated with ribbon, net, bell, and flower. 6. For the brim-type visor, they were mainly like square-type, using colors like transparent, yellow, and black, and materials like plastic, cotton, leather, and metal.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.125-136
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• 2009

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of complementary color scheme through the analysis of contemporary women's fashion color coordination as they appear in the 'Collections'. Data collection of 115 was done through review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of four cities; Milan, London, New York, Paris. Statistical analysis of frequency and also qualitative interpretation of characteristics of complementary color harmony characteristics which appeared in four collections were completed. The main findings were as followed; (1) Only 115 complementary color schemes out of 4968 two color combinations appeared. Compared the comparative ratios of appearance frequency between the two color combination and the complementary color harmony, London showed the highest, and followed by New York, and Milan and Paris. (2)The combined color type of 'red+green' was the most frequently appeared, and followed by 'violet+yellow' and 'orange+blue'. For the type of tone harmony, the contrast tone showed the most, and followed by the similarity and identity. According to the type of complementary color combination, the type of tone harmony used differently. Some differences showed in the types of color harmony and tone harmony between collections. (3) The complementary color scheme which shown in four collections harmonized two opposite colors mainly through the strong tone contrast and this could cause tension along with interest in the image. The complementary colors intensified and brought out the attributes each other. More details, high contrast of two complementary colors of yellow and violet created a vibrant look especially when used at higher saturation. Sometimes, however, some tone variations of two hues neutralized the strong effect and sometimes enhanced each other. When they used in similarity tones or identity tones in light colors, the tension was reduced and became softened but still presented nice harmony. In the type of 'red+green' color harmony, the various color combinations were demonstrated, mostly through tone manipulation of green color. The similarity tone harmony, which used the most, could effect a better sense of harmony and present more sophisticated looks. When used in contrast tone harmony, some changes in its own color which have only one color of two the excessive intensity led a good harmony. The 'orange+blue' color harmony was shown the least and used three tone harmony almost the same ratio. In this color harmony, blue amplified its energy and brilliance of orange and seemed to work better when one color was at a lower intensity than the other. In harmony with a similarity and an identity tone, this color harmony produces a stable and calm image. (4) The complementary scheme appeared more frequently in the S/S collections than in A/W collections and showed some differences in the types of color harmony and tone harmony between seasons, however, no big differences between collections.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.57-73
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• 2012

The main objective of this research was to understand the characteristics of pleats design through the analysis of modern female fashion as they appear in the 'Collections' from '09 A/W to '12 S/S. Data collection of 1027 was done through the review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three cities; Milan, New York, Paris. Along with the qualitative interpretation of pleats design, statistical analysis of frequency and ${\chi}^2$-test were completed for data analysis. The main findings were as follows; 1. The five types of pleats design were founded in the order of accordion, knife, box, inverted, and sunburst pleats. The frequency and ratio of pleats design occurency showed significant difference between collections. 2. There were significant difference between the types of pleats and their line characteristics of thickness, continuity, length, direction. = Thin fabrics with delicate fine folds were mainly appeared in accordion and sunburst pleats. On the other hand, midium thickness fabrics were used for knife, box & inverted pleats, however, the different images were projected according to the width and the number of folds, characteristics of fabrics and textures. = In all the type of pleats but sunburst, continuity line was appeared the most. The discontinuous lines were appeared the most in the layered types and, sometimes, at some construction lines to add some decorative details or design variations. = The long line were the most frequently appeared in long one-pieces or long skirts of knife, accordion, sunburst pleats. While, the shorter lines showed the most frequently in box and inverted pleats, which mainly used for skirts or the lower part of one-piece. = For the line directions, the vertical lines were the most frequently appeared, and followed by mixed and diagonal line. In mixed or diagonal lines, same type of pleat was repeated in one design. For diagonal lines, one direction was mainly used, however, the symmetrical arrangements or repeated diagonal pleats in various directions also used. In mixed lines, the type of one or two diagonal and one vertical line was the most frequently appeared.