• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.134-147
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• 2013

Today, the convergence of fashion design and digital technology has become a popular method and accordingly been tried variously in the fashion area. This study aimed to analyze the character of the collaboration with fashion and technology, and the meaning of technology as emotional expression methods. Selected designer's collections, literature and other related studies were reviewed in order to analyze the generative structure of the meaning and the binary-opposition in the convergence of body, fashion design and technology. Literatures and selected designer's collections were reviewed and quantitatively studies were performed to classify the convergence of human bodies, fashion design and technology through Greimas Semiotics rectangle based on binary-opposition of meaning and isotophy analysis. The research presents three types of fashion technology methods: mechanical movement, light/digital media, and virtual image. The convergence of fashion and technology was classified as the direct convergence and the indirect convergence. The direct convergence was characterized by variability and has automatic, independent movement, but the indirect convergence was shown closed and to have contradistinctive images.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.306-325
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• 2017

This study analyzed how a time-honored fashion house has harmonized its design identity over a sustained period with its successor designers. Givenchy Fashion House was selected as the subject of this study. This study focused on literary research, analyzed design features and fashion images based on photos of Huber de Givenchy's collections (1952-1995) and collections by Riccardo Tisci (2006-2016), the creative director of the house. Photos were gathered from books and fashion websites; in addition design was analyzed based on a review by experts on collections. The results are as follows. Hubert de Givenchy won fame for simplified modern elegance that presented a new beauty for modern women and reached the peak of his career from the 1950s to the 1960s. Riccardo Tisci respected the couture tradition of the Givenchy Fashion House. He successfully revitalized the house by simultaneously emphasizing his personal design features and reinterpreting the design identity as well as tried to establish new house signatures. In conclusion, the original design identity of the Givenchy Fashion House is based on Hubert de Givenchy's timeless modern elegance that has been reformed by Riccardo Tisci as romantic goth and sensual elegance.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.64-75
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• 2024

Clothing is a powerful medium that reflects the environment, situation, and trends of the times. It has been an important subject of semiotic analysis, particularly in East Asia. While Korea, China, Japan, and Mongolia are geographically close, they have each developed unique characteristics in their clothing. These characteristics continue to evolve over time. The purpose of this paper is to explore the modern fashion design characteristics of these four East Asian countries by using the Greimas symbol square. To achieve this, the paper follows a research method consisting of several steps. First, it considers previous studies on the topic. Second, it analyzes fashion collections from Paris, Milan, New York, and London, as well as the Seoul and Cruise collections, from 2013 to 2024. Third, it compares costumes and modern fashion designs of brands known for their East Asian influences. Finally, it applies the framework of the Greimas symbol square to analyze the main elements of dress culture in these four countries and their significance in modern fashion collections. The findings of this study reveal that East Asian costume culture can be summarized into four distinct characteristics in modern fashion. Korea is characterized by "moderation," China by "exaggeration," Japan by "distinctiveness," and Mongolia by "symbolism."

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.91-109
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• 2013

The main objective of this research was to understand the latest trends of natural print design through the quantitative & qualitative analysis of fashion appeared in contemporary female collections. The research criteria was defined as 3 seasons from 2011 S/S to 2012 S/S. Data collection of 726 was done through review of 'pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections' of three major fashion cities; Paris, Milan and NY. Statistical analysis of frequency with chi-square test was conducted. Also qualitative interpretation of natural print design' characteristics was completed. The main findings were as follows.; The average occurrence rate of natural print design from 2011SS to 2012 SS in three collections were 6.4% in Milan 6.4%, 5.5% in Paris and 6.8% in N.Y. The five source types of natural prints in contemporary women's fashion collections were identified and the order of their appearance were as follows: flowers, plants, animals, insects & marine organisms and compound one. The plant prints were expressed by stylized or realistic touch. Flower patterns showed more variables than plants, however, there were no big difference in their image and major characteristics. The animal prints demonstrated two aspects. First one used typical animal print of fur or skin, but the other one draw the animal figure like paintings. The compound source type presented the most interesting and fresh pattern design ideas. In the insects & marine organisms, mainly butterfly and seashell & starfish, etc. appeared as real shapes or sometimes were stylized.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.147-160
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• 1999

This paper is intended to compare and analyze the fashion trends that were introduced in the recent shows, held abroad and in Korea, so as to investigate how well the designers in Taegu and Kyungbuk (TK) area are keeping up with the international vogue. The research has done, analyzing Pret-a-Porter in Paris and the three events held in the TK area in 1997 -The Taegu Collection, Kyungbuk Fashion Festival and Textile & Apparel Fair and using reference pictures and documentary records. In order to investigate the trends the research is divided by four groups which are the silhouette, the detail, the color and the Fashion image and has done with the help of three postgraduate students. The results are as follows. 1. The Silhouette The slim-line has the greatest importance in the silhouette analysis of the recent collections. Like Elongated and Fit & Flare, tight-fitting and female-line were also appeared quite a lot. Compared with foreign collection, Korean collections put the bigger importance on the slim-line. 2. The Detail The printings, using paintings and plant-logos had the large portion of the accessories in both foreign and Korean collections. Draw string and wrap style were also presented a lot. Especially, at the Korean collections, layerd, corsage, and craft accent were emphasized, too. As for the necklines the similarity was found over the four events considering. Camisole neckline and halter neck were presented the most, and bared top, Vneckline, boat and low-neck which can highlight the feminity were often appeared as well. Considering collars, tailored and peaked collars which are frequently used for the jackets, were usually shown at the collections. Like convertable, shirts, wing and Italian collar, the collars that can be applied for the sports wears were presented a lot. Virtually no variation of design was found in the sleeve analysis. While set-in-sleeve and sleeveless were found commonly, not so many ornaments were added to the sleeves. The ankle and knee length for the pants and skirts were common. Furthermore, including the micro-mini, showing extremely feminine style the mini-style had the 20% portion of the skirt-length. Unbalanced lengths, using bias-cut were presented quite a lot on the runways. Deep slit skirts, wide pants and irregular hem skirts were in vogue. On the runways of Paris, more than 21% of the design was the burmuda pants. 3. The Color Red and Blue were in vogue in the four collections considering. Sometimes, yellowish was combined in Korean collections. Black and pale tone were appeared to be in fashion also with light grayish, moderate and deep tone. 4. The Fashion image As for the fashion image, feminine-decorative trend amounted to the large percentage in korean collections. At the foreign collection feminine-decorative trend and feminine trend were predominant, then mannish trend and simple trend were apeared equally. The research shows that TK area and foreign collections are fairy similar, which means that the designers in TK area have been making their efforts to satisfy the clients who have the international minds. However, compared with foreign collections, TK collections were apprered to be strongly inclined to only a few trends. Consequently the season trends are not as diverse as the foreign trends, which cannot satisfy the fashion taste of the clients in TK area. The local designers should know the tendency and the taste of the clients and make the more efforts to read local clients' mind.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.116-130
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• 2011

Ethnic fashion and makeup were studied. 264 fashion designs from pret-$\`{a}$-porter collections in Milan and New York from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as the following: 1. The major types of ethnic fashion and makeup were Africa. American Indian. Japan, India. China and Inca. Makeup types expressed in ethnic fashion were soft smoky, smoky, retro, nature, avant-garde, eastern. 2. Makeup types expressed in ethnic fashion were used for the image for the designer's collections rather than ethnic features. Soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more used than others. 3. Soft smoky makeup types were more expressed in S/S seasons than in F/W seasons. In F/W seasons soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more expressed than other types. 4. Soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more expressed than others in Milan and New York collections commonly. 5. To emphasize the ethnic image for ethnic fashion, ethnic makeup arts like China, Japan, India, Africa, American Indian, Inca makeup arts and soft smoky, smoky makeup arts were represented.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.390-408
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• 2018

The number of hand knitters has increased dramatically in the past few years. Recently, various hand knitted items have been seen in many fashion collections. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the design features of hand knitted items in the collections from Daniela Gregis. This brand was selected because it featured knitted items in its collections every season. An empirical analysis about form, material, color and knitting technique was done for hand knitted items from Daniela Gregis' collections from 2012 S/S to 2018 S/S. The results can be summarized as follows: In terms of form, garments such as pullovers, cardigans, and shawls used basic components, and accessories such as bags, mufflers, hats, and decorative pieces had various shapes. In the material, there were many items that expressed unique textures by combining various materials such as a mix of fabric and yarn. With regards to color, orange, yellow, and red were mainly used as accent colors, and combinations of two or more colors were prominent in the items. In terms of knitting technique, the methods used in the collections were mostly simple and basic. Among various techniques, plain knitting, garter knitting, and single crochet methods were mainly used. While this study is limited to the characteristics of hand knitted items from a single brand, therefore cannot be generalized for all knit fashion, the study provides basic data that could facilitate the revitalization of the hand knitting industry and expand the application range of hand knitting techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.79-94
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to explore the process of how modern fashion establishes new consumption cultures by analyzing the different types of fashion toys that have appeared in modern fashion, and identifying inherent meanings of the said toys. The range of this study was limited to four collections (New York, London, Milano, Paris) from 2000 to 2015. In addition to these collections, advertisement campaign and cooperative examples as well as examples of fashion toys that appeared in public interest activities and collections were included. The selected materials were classified into different types of fashion toy usage. From the results of analyzing fashion toys appearing in modern fashion, the four following characteristics. After analyzing the use of fashion toys in modern fashion, four characteristics were found. First, fashion toys were found to be a means to maximize the visual effects of the collection stage. Second, fashion toys utilized as a fashion object were key elements in transforming neo-pop into modern fashion, and constructing high fashion. Third, the fact that people's fashion and fashion toys share contemporary fashion means that customers are shared through the integration of diverse media. This leads to creation of new benefits. Fourth, fashion toys are meaningful because the products reflect contemporary culture, and extend the scope of fashion and art, as it can be considered fashion as well as art. In conclusion, fashion toys were meaningful in that high fashion broke from conservative values, and swiftly introduced contemporary culture codes. It derived a point of effective contact to present a new way of consumption and extended the scope of fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.826-837
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• 2012

Recently, hats have been used more frequently as an accessory, contributing to the general image of clothes in men's collections. This study compared and analyzed the frequency and styles of hat usage in men's brand collections according to the collections' images. Types of hats and their frequency of usage in men's clothes were analyzed among 857 collections from 74 brands between S/S 2006 and F/W 2012. This study also examined the relationship between clothes image and type of hats used. Hats were used in 622 out of 857 collections, and 24 different types of hats were used. In 67 collections, hats were used in at least 71% of clothes. The most frequently used hat was the fedora, followed in frequency by the beanie, cap, bowler, and high hat. The styles of hats in collections varied depending on seasons. In S/S season collections, fedoras were often used, while beanies were more common during the F/W season. This study analyzed styles of hats used in formal, casual, uniformed, and deformed images. Beanies and fedoras were frequently used for the formal image; fedoras, beanies, and plat caps were often used for the casual image; more than 3 types of hats were used together for the uniformed image; and design hats and hats in various styles were used for the deformed image. The results show that hats of various styles were used in collections to express the image of clothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.171-183
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• 2014

In general, the idea of fun is understood to be associated with interesting things, playfulnesses, joy, pleasure, etc. The "fun culture," which seeks enjoyment and pleasure through life, is a characteristic of elements observed in today's society and culture. This exerts a powerful impacts on the business operation, marketing, and product manufacturing. Moreover, it is accepted as one of remarkable phenomena representing the changing trends of fashion in the 21st century. The objectives of this study were to analyze and categorize the fun motifs observed in fashion designer Walter Van Beirendonck 's collections, to examine their formative characteristics, and to establish academic approaches and analytic framework in studying the fun phenomenon emerging in fashion. As to research methods, this study laid a theoretical ground by reviewing the related literature and previous studies, and conducted a positive case study using the data on Walter Van Beirendonck's collections and exhibitions. According to the results of this study, the fun motifs represented in Walter Van Beirendonck's collections are largely categorized into "deviation from rules," "humorous and obscene graphic images," "introduction and transformation of heterogeneous elements," "women with male gender' etc. On the other side of Walter Van Beirendonck's fashion are sex, sexual humors, sexuality, fetishism, love, form, body, language, social phenomena, harmony between nature and life, consumerism, race, shamanism, tribal rituals, nation, cultural collision, transcendent things, science fictions, cyber Space, dream, alien, future, fairytale, fantasy etc. which are expressed by using fun motifs. Moreover, these themes are led to masculinity and fantasy.