• 제목/요약/키워드: Fashion Art

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Traditional Embroidery in India based on Bourdieu's Cultural Theory (부르디외 문화이론으로 살펴본 인도 지역별 전통자수)

  • Kim, Yi Rang;Kwon, Mi Jeong
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.758-769
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    • 2021
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the traditional embroidery in India by region based on Bourdieu's cultural theory. As the research methods for this study, literature and case studies were conducted. The results of the study are summarized as follows. First, India's regions could be divided into four distinct regions based on language and religion. The main concepts of Bourdieu's cultural theory, namely the sub-dimensions of field and habitus, were the field of social system, the field of goods & economy, the field of environment/region, culture, and ethnicity. Second, Eastern India's embroidery was influenced by Hinduism and traditional art. The embroidery used various fabrics such as the Applique work, and vivid colors and patterns were mainly used in the Hindu myths, animals, and flower patterns of the embroidery. Third, embroidery in Western India was influenced by exotic cultures like Persian due to geographical conditions, and embroidery via the use of gold threads and various ornaments was developed. Symbolized flower patterns and geometric patterns were used a lot in the respective embroidery. Fourth, embroidery in southern India was influenced by the Dravidian culture and their architectural style, which saw the emergence of an embroidery that used simple colored cross-stitch. Most of the patterns in this embroidery are geometricized. Fifth, Northern Indian embroidery has historically served as the center of power, resulting in an embroidery that uses various forms and materials. In this embroidery, flower patterns are mainly used. Finally, the characteristics of the traditional embroidery of India's each region is based on Bourdieu's cultural theory, which could be summarized as ethnic religiosity, exotic splendor, structural formality, and symbolic power.

A Study on the Image of Women by Chinese Ancient Aesthetic View(I) - Focused on Tang-Song Dynasty - (중국 고대 심미관에 의한 여성 이미지 연구(I) - 당송시기(唐宋时期)를 중심으로 -)

  • Jiang, Donghua
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.24 no.3
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    • pp.127-144
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    • 2022
  • This paper aims to analyze the different external images of women expressed in ancient artwork through the socio-cultural background and the aesthetic view during the Tang and Song dynasties of China. The research method contains a literature review involving the collection of historical literature, thesis, and artwork data. The image of women according to the aesthetic view of the two periods is summarized as follows. In terms of face shape, the Tang pursued a round face while the Song pursued a more slender shape. As for hair ornamentation, the Tang wore various shapes of hair buns like "Paojiaji", and decorated them with coronets. The Song wore various types of braided hair called "Tongxinji", but the coronets were smaller and more sophisticated. For makeup, the Tang wore colorful and heavy makeup and the Song makeup was lighter and more elegant. In attire, the Tang followed revealed shape, used splendid colors and thin, transparent material. The Song exhibited a more simple design and was conservative and neat, using luxurious silk fabric with low chroma. In body shape, the Tang pursued the "beauty of obesity" with a voluptuous body shape; the Song pursued the "beauty of gaunt" with a slim body shape. As the result of the analysis according to the aesthetic views of the Tang and Song dynasties, women of Tang were depicted as rich, and women of Song were rather neat. The research on the aesthetic views that changed according to the development of social civilization and the status of women will play an active role in the transmission and development of traditional Chinese culture. At this point, the paper may contribute to the creation of images of women as well as changes in the art of future generations.

Influence of Academic Satisfaction Level on Intention to Drop Out among Cosmetology Majors (미용 전공 대학생의 학업만족도가 중도탈락의도에 미치는 영향)

  • So-Hee Moon;Ji-Young Jung
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.25 no.2
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    • pp.241-247
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    • 2023
  • This study sought to investigate the effect of academic satisfaction on the dropout intention of cosmetology undergraduates. Analyzing the effect of academic satisfaction on career dropouts showed that the sub-factors of academic satisfaction-evaluation satisfaction, class satisfaction had a statistically significant part effect. Analyzing the effect of academic satisfaction on psychological factors for dropping out showed that the sub-factors of academic satisfaction have a statistically significant effect. Furthermore, regarding the effect of academic satisfaction on environmental factors, the sub-factors of academic satisfaction have a statistically significant effect on wealth. High satisfaction was shown to have no statistically significant effect on dropout intention. The results of the study showed that the higher the degree of satisfaction with the evaluation and the degree of satisfaction with the course of beauty majors, the more negative (-) the impact on dropout. For cosmetology majors, academic satisfaction is a subjective emotion felt through study at university and major. Students with high academic satisfaction are more likely to love their school and their work, and positively influence their intention to stay in school and reduce student dropout rates. Intention to drop out indicates the intention to lose interest and purpose in cosmetology college students. This is directly linked to the dropout rate of school students and requires steady research. Through this research, we hope that active discussions will be held on academic satisfaction and intention to drop out of university students specializing in cosmetology.

Customer satisfaction and skin care shop selection factors in the pandemic era impact on revisit intention (팬데믹 시대의 피부관리숍 선택요인이 고객만족도와 재방문 의도에 미치는 영향)

  • Byoung Ock Lee;Soo Nam Hong
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.25 no.2
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    • pp.83-95
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    • 2023
  • The purpose of this study was to identify the effect of skin care salons' decision factors on customer satisfaction and revisit intention during the COVID-19 pandemic. The subjects of this study were 220 women in their 20s to 50s who reside in Seoul and the Gyeonggi-do area and are users of skin care salons. The data was statistically analyzed using SPSS V.25.0 and detailed research results are as follows. For the analysis of this study, frequency analysis, factor analysis, reliability verification, independent sample T-Test, one-way analysis of variance, post hoc test, Duncan test, and regression analysis were conducted. First, as a result of examining whether skin care salon decision factors during the pandemic have a positive (+) effect on customer satisfaction, hygienic environment satisfaction and service environment satisfaction, which are sub-factors of customer satisfaction, had a significant effect on professionalism, kind service, and distance, which are sub-factors of decision factors, and are independent variables. Second, as a result of examining whether skin care salon decision factors during the pandemic have a positive (+) effect on revisit intention, decision factors, which are independent variables, including professionalism, kind service, price, and distance showed significant effects on human revisit intention, As for physical revisiting intention, only kind service, distance, and professionalism showed significant effects, while price did not have a significant effect. Third, as a result of examining whether customer satisfaction during the pandemic has a positive (+) effect on revisiting intention, the service environment satisfaction and hygienic environment satisfaction, which were sub-factors of independent variables, showed significant results for human and physical revisit intentions. In this study, service environment and hygienic environment satisfaction were important variables for skin care salon decision factors. Professionalism and kind service were important for human revisit intention. Therefore, overall service environment, hygiene, and safety should be prioritized to increase revisit intention and efforts must be made to retain and improve customer satisfaction

Structural Relationship Between the Awareness of the 4th Industrial Revolution, Entrepreneurship Knowledge, Entrepreneurship Mind, and Entrepreneurship Intention - Focus on University Students Majoring in Beauty - (4차 산업혁명 인식과 창업지식, 창업 마인드 및 창업 의지의 구조적 관계 - 미용 전공대학생을 대상으로 -)

  • Jeonghee Mo
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.25 no.5
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    • pp.626-633
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    • 2023
  • This study aimed to reveal the structural relationship between the awareness of the 4th industrial revolution, entrepreneurship knowledge, entrepreneurship mind, and entrepreneurship intention in college students majoring in beauty. To this end, the study used a questionnaire to survey college students majoring in beauty. A total of 300 copies of the questionnaire were distributed, and after weeding out insincere responses, 283 copies were used for a final analysis. The analysis was carried out using SPSS 26.0. The results are as follows: First, the awareness of the 4th industrial revolution had a positive effect on entrepreneurship knowledge, entrepreneurship mind, and entrepreneurship intention of the subjects, and entrepreneurship mind had an effect on entrepreneurship intention. Second, it was verified that the goodness of fit of the structural model on the relationship between the awareness of the 4th industrial revolution and entrepreneurship intention was satisfactory. After analyzing the hypotheses on the structural model, it was discovered that all of them were adopted. In respect to the awareness of the 4th industrial revolution and entrepreneurship intention, the indirect effect of entrepreneurship knowledge and entrepreneurship mind were statistically significant. In conclusion, this study investigated the structural relationship between the awareness of the 4th industrial revolution and entrepreneurship in college students majoring in beauty, with the goal of providing basic data for entrepreneurship education.

A Study on Soviet Constructive Fashion in 1920s (1920년대 소비에트 구성주의 패션에 관한 연구)

  • 조윤경;금기숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.36
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    • pp.183-203
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    • 1998
  • The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.

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A Study on the Contents to Vitalize the Space for Making Traditional Gwangheemun A Tourism Resource (문화유산 광희문(光熙門)의 관광자원화를 위한 공간 활성화 콘텐츠 연구)

  • Kim, Ji Eun;Park, Eun Soo
    • Korea Science and Art Forum
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    • v.23
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    • pp.95-109
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    • 2016
  • The background and objective of this study are as follows. Gwangheemun, one of the 4 small gates of Seoul Castle is a space to represent ordinary people and it is a valuable cultural heritage that shows the process of technical transition of fortification technology during Chosun Dynasty. It is a place that we can expect to play a role as a field where history and culture mix and communicate together. But currently, the environment and facilities around Gwangheemun have fallen behind and become old, so they need to be reorganized as their local feature is not shown distinctly. We need to vitalize the new traditional space that shows local feature. This study has drawn out the method, contents and the result of study like as follows. This study aims to establish an identity based on the historical and cultural backgrounds and suggest the contents to vitalize the space of Gwangheemun as a traditional cultural heritage. By this, this study aims to create a historical and cultural space where people can enjoy, eat and look around. Therefore, based on the historical and cultural feature, it gives an identity as moonlight street, and it has developed and suggested 5 contents to vitalize space: Gwangheemun maintenance, plan, castle restoration plan, village inside the castle, village outside the castle and fashion art street. Contents to vitalize space has a meaning as a specific developmen method of urban restoration, and we can expect to be used as a direction to develop the area to enhance the cultural quality of life of both inhabitants and visitors by forming the brand identity of surrounding area with traditional cultural heritage.

A Study on the Happening and the Culture of Hippies (Happening 과 Hippies 문화에 관한 연구)

  • 이효진
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.8 no.3
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    • pp.387-410
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study was to approach to the internal meanings included in the Happening and the culture of hippies, by analysing the basic mental conditions in the process of the Happening. And this study was composed of the concept and the development of Happening, the characteristics of the hippies that related in the midst of the happening's background, and the formativeness between these factors and hippies'fashion. Since the happening a genre of fine arts expression attended the New School for social research in New York in 1954, Allan Kaprow direct-influenced by John Cage used the word 'Hapening'first, practicing '18 Happenings in 6 parts'at the Rueben gallery in 1959. Kaprow's 18 Happenings was one of the earliest opportunities for a wider public to attend the live events that several artists had performed more privately for various friends. Despite the very different sensibilities and structures of artist's works, artists were all thrown together by the press under the general heading of 'Happening', following Kaprow's 18 Happenings. Being considered as the root of the Happening 'Expression of Sound'of John Cage was the discovery of the exisiting thing- the Happening. Most artists were to be deeply influenced by Cage's theories and attitudes-that is, his sympathy for Zen Buddihism and oriental philosophy-and by reports of the Black Mountain events. These events would directly reflect contemporary painting and stemmed from the Futurists, Dadaists and Surrealists. And Happening's development background was based on the culture of hippies. Swinging London had been under the sway of psychedelic drugs and utopian visions of 'hippie'wave sweeping in from Califonia. This wave, which affected solid middle-class youth first and formost, began in Haight Ashbury in San Francisco. Without dwelling on the hippie movement here, it is worth nothing that it resulted from the convergence of several undercurrents : consciousness-expending drugs, the anti-Vietnam war developments, the impact of English pop groups on American music and the rise of protest songs, and finally the beatnik tradition of non-conformism. Hippie culture and its pursuit of love, peace and psychedelia was the antitheses of 1960s main street fashion. The media gave everyone with long hair the label of 'hippie', but it was always a very loose collage of attitudes and styles. The rejection of sexual taboos was conveyed by the hippie's refusal to wear. Although the bold exposure of body raised controversies because it went against the existing moral values, it has a significant implications. Psychedelics brought mind-expansion and the possibillity that modern technology (light show, synthesized electronic sounds), new fabrics or colors, and LSD could be utilized to provide an escape route from the dreariness of modern life. During the 1960s, traditional costumes, many of which had never been seen outside their native regions, became sought after and adopted in the West, initially by the young, who wanted to demonstrate their solidarity with cultures uncontaminated by mass industry. The most ardent proponents of such folk costumes were the hippies. Hippies dress was sometimes decribed as 'anti-fashion', produced by a patchwork of ragged cast-offs and flamboyant accessories, of outmoded Western dress and time-honored ethnic garments all combined, modified and permutated into variety of personal statements. 'Flower Power'became a reality. From the results of this study, we can see the expanding trend of the influence and the concept of the sew art genre 'Happening'in the formativeness as well as the fine arts field.

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A State-of-the Art Review of Clothing and Textiles Research in Korea : 1991~1999 (한국의류학의 연구경향분석 : 1991~1999)

  • 나수임;이정순;배주형
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.8 no.6
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    • pp.853-863
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    • 2000
  • This study is planned to present the future direction of the study of Korean clothes through the realistic recognition of the changes of studying issues of each area of the related clothes. For this purpose, the writer of this thesis have collected, classified and analyzed those various kinds of papers and theses published in the professional magazines of clothes such as Journal of Korean Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, The Research Journal of the Costume Culture so that I might examine and study the main trend of the related study. The result of the study is as follows. 1. Since the first publication of Journal of Korean Home Economics in 1959 and Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, the study of clothes has been gradually increased. Furthermore, since 1990 the issuing times of various kinds of Journals have been continuously increased with the foundation of The Research Journal of the Costume Culture and Journal of Fashion Business. 2. Theses and papers published in the four greatest Journals of Korean Clothing and Textiles have been studies for the detailed classification and analysis of the data. According to the study, It is found that the theses in Journal of the Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles have actively studied textiles as they had studied before 1990s and those in Journal of the Korean Society of Costume have studied history of costumes and those in The Research Journal of the Costume Culture have studied the composition and science of clothes. 3. The order of studying subjects was 1) Design and Aesthetics, 2) Fashion Merchandising 3) Textiles, 4) Clothing Construction, 5) History of Costumes, 6) Costume Culture, 7) Socio-Psychology of clothing, 8) Others. Considering the above mentioned result of the study, most of the main fields of the clothing and textiles study have been studied continuously in balance since 1990 unlike the past although the past studies had been performed largely in some main fields only. And it was found that fields of clothing styles and clothing goods have been studied most actively since 1990s. 4. The studying field of Design and Aesthetics has showed to have the trend to be studied very actively since 1990s, which has utilized various relevant data with scholastic approach to psychology and aesthetics. Regarding Fashion Merchandising, the study of consumers decision process has been performed most actively. And theses on the international trades have been published considerably more than ever before, which resulted in gradual increase in gradual increase in the study of the fields related with global marketing, internet marketing, textile products exports, and overseas brands, etc. Regarding Textiles, the field of clothing sanitation and management has been studied more actively than that of clothing materials. In case of clothing construction, the study of physical styles and pattern making has been more active than the other related fields. Fields of socio-psychology of clothing and history costume have been a little reduced. Field of costume culture has been firmly rooted as an independent subject to be studied in the clothing related study. And study of the clothes has shown various trends of studies of ethnic & folk clothes, religious and ceremonial garments, linguistic & favorite approach to clothes and academic analysis of the data.

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Analysis of Formal Aesthetics of Fashion Designer's Works -Focused on Madeleine Vionnet & Christian Dior- (패션디자인 작품에 나타난 형태미 분석 -비요네와 디올의 작품을 중심으로-)

  • Yun, Ji-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.29 no.12 s.148
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    • pp.1582-1594
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study is to rediscover the value of form in fashion design by developing a new perspective of design appreciation. By examining and modifying the theories of Wolfflin and Belong, this paper tries to of for a new perspective for analyzing the characteristics of form in fashion designers' works. The three new perspective, Flat & Rounded, Closed & Opened and Part & Whole, can be used to analyze the formative aesthetic character of Vionnet's and Dior's works. Ten of Vionnet's and eleven of Dior's representative works selected and applied Delong's visual priority diagram to analyze their character. Vionnet and Dior, emphasized form and construction in their design and applied geometric shapes in their works. The main differences between Vionnet and Dior is that Vionnet's work transforms from geometric shapes in 2-dimentional space to drapery shapes in 3-dimensional space, Dior's work displays geometric shapes in 3-dimensional space. Vionnet created new formative art through the relationship between the clothes and human body. Vionnet's work has distinctively different qualities depending on whether the space is 2-dimensional or 3-dimensional showing transposition of form. In 2-dimensional space, Vionnet's works consist of triangles, rectangles and circles which are 'flat' and 'closed' in quality. These transform to solid forms by draping bias fabrics, which have a 'rounded' and 'open' quality. Dior tended to show artificial form rather than the natural lines of the body which is very different with Vionnet. Dior created clothes by using solid geometric form such as spheres, prisms, cylinders, pyramids and cubes in 3-dimensional space, which were visualized through constructive technique such as dart manipulation, boning, gathering, tucking, pleating, shirring and layering. Dior's works have their own form which does not relate with body shape. So his Works have a 'rounded' and 'closed' quality.