• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.8
• /
• pp.1057-1064
• /
• 2004

Silk, polyester, cotton, and wool fabrics were embroidered with varying stitch length of 3mm, 5mm, and 10mm to examine the difference in fabric shrinkage in terms of sewing direction, fabric thickness, cover factor, stitch length, and fiber type. Warp, filling, and bias direction of sewing resulted in no difference in fabric shrinkage. Within the samples with same stitch length, there was less fabric shrinkage in fabrics with higher fabric thickness or higher cover factor. There was larger shrinkage when sewn with longer stitch length. Comparing fabrics with different fiber types but similar fabric thickness, silk and polyester fabrics showed the smallest fabric shrinkage and wool fabrics showed the largest shrinkage. It is shown that similar fabric shrinkage between silk and polyester is due to the similarity in cover factor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.7
• /
• pp.1117-1123
• /
• 1997

This paper describes the measurement of thickness of still air layer above fabrics and its relationship to structural properties of fabrics. Rayon fabrics - of both filament and spun - and wool nylon blended fabrics varied in terms of surface hairiness were used. Temperature and relative humidity above fabrics were measured at the various distances from the fabric surface. Increase in the thickness of fabric, fabric weight, yarn count, and crimp resulted increase in thickness of still air layer above fabric. Surface hairiness of fabrics as well as the structural properties were found to be related with the thickness of still air layer above fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.6
• /
• pp.24-34
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to create a database of information on fabric factors(i.e., fabric insulation, fabric weight, clothing weight, fabric thickness, air permeability, and water vapor resistance) of clothing used for insulations, to compare them according to clothing types, and to estimate thermal resistance of clothing using these factors. A total of 25 kinds of clothing were selected(9 types for suits, 6 types of jacket, 5 types for shirts, and 5 types for trousers). The results of this study were as follows; Thermal insulation of clothing showed the highest positive correlation(0.85, p>0.01) with thermal insulation of fabric and very high positive correlation with water vapor resistance, fabric thickness, fabric weight, and clothing weight, respectively, 0.77, 0.77, 0.73, 0.71(p>0.01). Fabric weight of jacket was higher than that of shirts and trousers. Air permeability of shirts was the highest of clothing types. Clothing insulation of jacket was higher than that of shirts and trousers and its fabric insulation was also the highest of clothing types. Regression analysis showed that fabric thickness, water vapor resistance, and fabric weight would be useful factors for estimating the thermal resistance of clothing.

• Transactions of the Korean Society of Mechanical Engineers A
• /
• v.27 no.8
• /
• pp.1338-1346
• /
• 2003

Three-dimensional formability of the thermoplastic laminar composite was studied according to manufacturing conditions. Five different types of the plain weave fabric were used as reinforcement with PET matrix. The square blank was made by press consolidation technique and formed in the type hemisphere. B-factor defined as the ratio of width of yarn and distance between yarns was used as the factor of formability in the type of plain weave fabric. The formability of PET/Glass fabric laminar composite was estimated in terms of forming rate and B-factor with the thickness distribution, area ratio of blank, and intra-ply shear angle. The thickness distribution across hemisphere was strongly affected by the B-factor, forming rate and blank thickness. The area ratio of blank was increased with B-factor, forming rate and blank thickness. Also, it was found that the intra-ply shear angle depends on the B-factor and forming rate.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.36-44
• /
• 2004

This research surveys the differences of fabric mechanical properties according to the different looms and the fabric positions with relation to warp and weft weaving tensions on the Picanol and Omega looms respectively. For this purpose, the grey fabrics woven in the previous paper are processed in dyeing and finishing processes, and the processing shrinkages are measured on each processes such as dryer, scouring, pre-set, dyeing and final-set using the fabric density and width. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions of the two looms and the variations of the fabric mechanical properties according to the fabric positions are also discussed. In addition, the fabric thickness according to the fabric positions such as right, left selvedges and center of the fabrics is also measured and discussed with the characteristics of the Picanol and Omega looms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.3_4
• /
• pp.396-402
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the difference of cotton fabric texture perceived between on-line(screening fabric) and off-line(real fabric), and to analyze fabric characteristics having an effect on the difference. The similarity of 55 various cotton fabrics perceived between on-line and on-line were measured showing simultaneously real fabrics and screening fabrics by 7-scale questionnaire. And the characteristics of cotton fabrics such as weave structure, thickness, weight, fabric density, stiffness, Hunter's L, a, b, and hue were measured. Cotton fabrics were classified into 3 groups by extent of similarity. There were no significant differences in weft density, stiffness, Hunter's L, a, b, and hue among 3 groups. But there were significant differences in weave structure, thickness, weight, warp density, and difference of warp ＆ weft density. The fabrics having large similarity were thick and heavy, had small warp density and difference of warp ＆ weft density, and distinct surface texture. The group having medium similarity included fabrics of medium thickness and weight, having weak surface texture, large warp density and difference of warp ＆ weft density. The group having small similarity, which the differences between on-line and off-line were large, included thin and light fabrics having smooth surface and large warp density and difference of warp ＆ weft density.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.15 no.4
• /
• pp.143-155
• /
• 2013

This study examined the motif, weave structure, fabric density, and thread thickness of the patterned silks excavated from the Lady Lee's Tomb to trace the weave composition of the 18th Century in Korea. Different weave compositions were adopted depending on the weave structure. Two weave structures appeared in these patterned silks : simple gauze and satin damask. In the case of simple gauze Jergori, all the components, Gil(bodice), Somae(Sleeve) had similar fabric density and thread thickness. On the other hand, the satin damask Jergoris was composed of the components of different fabric density and thread thickness. According to the fabric density and thread thickness, the motif sharpness of damask Jergori was represented in three different ways : smooth and clear, rough and clear, and rough and vague. This revealed that Lady Lee selected not only pattern but also fabric density and thread thickness in the design of damask Jergori.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.27 no.1
• /
• pp.1-8
• /
• 1989

In order to investigate the mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, thickness and weight of the wool fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Samples were classified into blend ratio, weave type, fabric count. Blend ratio was classified into two groups, which are P/W blended fabric (p=63~65%, w=35~37%) and all wool fabric. Weave type was classified into four groups, which are plain, 3 harness twill, 4harness twill, satin. Cloth count was classified into three groups, which are loose, medium, tight. Statistical analysis was performed using T-test, F-test. The results were as follows; 1. There was significant difference in the thickness, tensile, bending, shearing according to the blend ratio. 2. According the weave, there was significant difference in the bending, weight and thickness in the P/W blended fabrics. There was significant difference in the tensile, weight, thickness, bending, shearing, shearing hysterisis (2HG) in the all wool fabrics. 3. There was significant difference in the shearing properties according to the fabric count.

• Proceedings of the KSME Conference
• /
• 2004.04a
• /
• pp.192-197
• /
• 2004

The anisotropy in coefficient of thermal expansion (CTE) between the in-plane and out-of-plane of 3-dimensional thick composite structures induces residual stresses and the large void content due to insufficient compaction of fabric composites, which results in low interlaminar strengths. In order to reduce the through thickness CTE and the void content, in this work, carbon fabric phenolic laminates were compacted by pressure generated by autoclave and a compressive jig, from which the through-thickness CTEs and the void contents were measured. From the measurement, it was found that the through-thickness CTE and the void content had different characteristics from ordinary composites due to gas produced during the cure reaction of phenolic resin.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.22 no.4
• /
• pp.515-522
• /
• 2020

This study examined the effect of the blend ratio of wool and polyester fibers, yarn and fabric structural parameters to the appearance property and the formability of worsted fabrics. The mechanical properties of twenty types of manufactured worsted and PET/wool blend fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Garment formability increases with the thickness and cover factor as well as increases with wool content. The correlation between KES-FB and FAST system showed a relatively high correlation with an extensibility of 0.98, bending and shear rigidity 0.71; both were higher than polyester synthetic fiber. The correlation coefficient of garment formability between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.93 and the correlation coefficient between formability and fabric extensibility was 0.8. These results were higher than those of bending and shear rigidity. This revealed that garment formability was influenced by wool content, cover factor and fabric thickness; however, wool content and fabric thickness were the most important factors for the seam pucker. The garment formability of the worsted fabrics can be predicted by fabric mechanical properties measured from KES-FB and FAST systems.