• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.144-151
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• 2002

The assessment of hand of the denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis will be discussed in this study. The subjective hand and the preference of the denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis were evaluated using the developed scale(Part I). The factors affecting consumer's taste for denim fabrics were analyzed by statistics using SAS program. Also, the enzymatic of hydrolysis on the properties of denim fabrics were evaluated by subjective hand measurements. The results are as follows; Regarding the surface properties and the weight, Tencel was evaluated to be the finest, the smoothest, the most flexible, the warmest, the most refined, the sleekest, the flossiest, the lightest the softest, and the thinnest among the four kinds of fabrics. The other fabrics in the order of cotton/Tencel, cotton, cotton/PP were evaluated to qualify the listed touches. Tencel was evaluated to be the loosest and the weakest among the four kinds of denim. Cotton was evaluated to have the driest touch. In addition, the fabrics were evaluated to be more elastic and less wrinkly in the order of Tencel > cotton > cotton/Tencel > cotton/ PP. For the hand preference, the fabrics were ranked in the order of Tencel, cotton, cotton/Tencel, cotton/PP, where tencel is the moat preferred. Cotton/Tencel and cotton/PP showed negative values in the hand and the color preference, meaning that the evaluators disliked their touches. Hand preference of enzyme hydrolyzed cotton/Tencel and cotton/PP denims do not seem to appeal to Korean people.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.439-444
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• 2005

This article describes the change in the hand value of chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics. The chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by mercerizing process using epichlorohydrin(ECH), 2% aqueous acetic acid and 20% aqueous sodium hydroxide. It proposed that the crosslinking and mercerizing were performed with the mixture of four different molecular weight chitosan and ECH in a single step. Cotton fabrics were dipped in the mixed solution of chitosan and ECH, picked up by mangle roller, pre-dried at $130^{\circ}C$, mercerized and crosslinked in NaOH solution and finally washed and dried. Mechanical and physical properties of the chitosan crosslinked fabric were measured on concentration and molecular weight by Kawabata Evaluation System(KES) and other instruments. As the concentration of chitosan solution increased, LT, WT, B, 2HB were increased. WT, B, 2HB, MIU, SMD, $T_0$, $T_m$ were decreased when chitosan was depolymerized. On the other hand, RT was increased when chitosan was depolymerized.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2003.11a
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• pp.31-33
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• 2003

이 연구의 목적은 S/S 티셔츠 소재의 기본태 및 역학적 특성이 소재에 대한 주관적 감성에 미치는 영향을 밝혀 티셔츠 소재의 감성 이미지를 확립하고 소비자 감성에 적합한 S/S용 티셔츠 소재를 개발하기 위함이다. 이 연구를 위해 2003 봄, 여름에 시판된 5개의 티셔츠 소재가 사용되었고, 티셔츠 소재에 대한 감성 이미지를 도출하기 위해 티셔츠 소재와 관련된 20개의 감성형용어로 설문지를 작성하였다. 설문조사는 총 75명의 성인 남녀를 대상으로 실시하였으며 평가자는 각 문항에 대해서 7점 리커트형 척도를 사용하여 평가하였다. 5개의 시료 각각에 대한 19개의 역학적 특성치를 측정하여 태의 값을 산출하였으며, 각 특성치들과 주관적 감성 이미지와의 관계는 SPSS_Win 10.1을 사용하여 분석하였다. 본 연구결과는 다음과 같다. S/S 티셔츠 소재의 감성이미지는 ‘유연감’, ‘청결감’, ‘매력성’, ‘건조감’, ‘강성’으로 분류되었으며, 소재의 감성 이미지가 소재의 기본 태에 의해 영향을 받는 정도는 다르게 나타났다. 감성이미지에 가장 많은 영향을 미치는 기본태는 Shari였다. 또한 편성구조 및 섬유조성과 같은 티셔츠 소재의 기본적 특성이 소재에 대한 주관적 감성이미지에 미치는 영향이 큰 것으로 나타났다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.660-666
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• 2004

This article describes the change of hand value of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics. The chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by mercerizing process using epichlorohydrin(ECH) as crosslinkins agent, 2% aqueous acetic acid as a solvent of chitosan and ECH, and 20% aqueous sodium hydroxide as a mercerizing agent and crosslinking catalyst. Cotton fabrics were dipped in the mixed solution of chitosan and ECH, picked up by mangle, mercerized and crosslinked in NaOH solution, and finally wash and dry. Mechanical and physical properties of the chitosan crosslinked fabric were investigated using Kawabata Evaluation System(KES) and other instruments. Tensile energy and tensile strain were decreased with the increase of the concentration of chitosan. Tensile resilience, compression resilience bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, shear stiffness, shear hysteresis, coefficient of friction, geometrical roughness, compression linearity, compressional energy, and thickness were increased with the increase of the concentration of chitosan. On the other hand, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, coefficient of friction, geometrical roughness, compressional resilience, and thickness were increased with the increase of the concentration of crosslinking agent(epichlorohydrin).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1467-1477
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• 2002

This study was investigated physical properties of stretch fabrics by KES-FB system to show suitable basic data to making skirts of excellent capacity and develop more organized basic skirt pattern by fitness evaluation. 1. The results of T. H. V.(Total Hand Value) were as followa: In the kind of blending fiber, cotton/spandex was more excellent than nylon/spandex and polyester/spandex, in the direction of stretch, one-way(weft inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandex and cotton/spandex were higher than two-way(warp and wet inserted polyurethan yarn) polyester/spandes and cotton/spandex, two-way nylon/spandex was higher than one-way nylon/spandex. 2. The results of calculating the variance between sample stretch fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics after standardizing were as follows: Stretch fabrics has 2 range of tensile, bending, shearing, compression, surface, thickness and weight as compared with Jpanese s/s women's suit fabrics. In the tensile property, one-way stretch fabrics were almost the same with Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics, only two-way polyester/spandex had+1～+2 range. In the bending, shear property, there was no difference between sample fabrics and Japanese s/s women's suit fabrics 3. In the total fitness of the skirt, nylon/spandex is the best in the fabrics and one-way stretch fabric is better than two-way strethch fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.615-622
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• 2006

A tool to evaluate the subjective wearing comfort of caps from the objective measurement of pressure was developed. Comfortable Fittability Index(C.F.I) and Holding Power(HP) were defined to represent the subjective wearing comfort of caps. As a preliminary step to define the Comfortable Fittability Index(C.F.I), average pressure, pressure distribution, standard deviation of pressure were obtained and subjective sensation were evaluated by wearing caps. Also Holding Power(HP) was estimated from wind tunnel testing. Two sets of caps were evaluated, one set made of elastic fabric(F-caps) and the other set made of non-elastic fabric(S-caps). F-caps begin to be taken off by the higher wind velocity and thus exhibited higher values of Holding Power. On the other hand, F-caps exerted lower average pressure, narrower pressure distribution, smaller standard deviation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1138-1150
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• 1996

This study was carried out to investigate the effects of dyeing on the mechanical properties, primary hand, total hand value (THV), and total appearance value (TAV) of woven fabrics. Cotton, PET, nylon, cotton/PET, and cotton/nylon woven fabrics were used as test specimens. Each of fabric was dyed under the same conditions as the fabrics for sportswear which consumers have selected as best. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand and THV were calculated by equation KN -201-MDY and KN-301-WINTER respectively. TAV was calculated by KN (eq. 10). The results were as follows: 1. In mechanical properties. tensile energy increased when cotton and two cotton mixture fabrics were dyed and decreased when polyester and nylon fabrics were dyed. Bending rigidity and shear rigidity decreased after all fabrics were dyed except nylon and cotton/ nylon mixture fabrics showing higher rigidities. Cotton fabrics showed higher surface roughness while other fabrics did lower values after dyeing. 2. In evaluation of primary hand and total hand , four primary hands of cotton fabrics so decreased after dyeing that THV were lowered. Numeri, Fukurami, and Sofutosa in primary hand of polyester, cotton/polyester, and cotton/nylon fabrics and Koshi and Numeri of nylon fabrics increased after dyeing and therefore THV of four fabrics were improved. 3. Cotton and polyester fabrics showed higher TAV due to their lower bending and shear rigidity, while nylon and cotton/nylon fabrics did lower values due to their higher shear rigidity. 4. It was proposed that the method of dyeing or treatment for minimizing the decrease of THV of cotton fabrics and TAV of nylon fabrics should be developed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.197-206
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.353-359
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• 2018

In this study, fused deposition modellig(FDM) 3D printing technology has been applied directly to polyester voil fabric to produce 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics. A stereolithograpy(STL) file with a lace type 3D modelling under the various thickness were prepared and transformed into a g-code file using a g-code generator. The extrusion conditions for FDM 3D printing were controlled by 50mm/s of nozzle speed, $235^{\circ}C$ of nozzle temperature, $40^{\circ}C$ of heating bed temperature. 3D printed lace/voil composite fabriscs manufactured by 3D printing based on FDM using a thermoplactic polyurethane(TPU) filaments were obtained. To evaluate the mechanical properties and washability of the fabricated 3D printed lace/voil composite fabric, KES-FB system test, washing fastness test and dry cleaning resistance test were conducted. As 3D printing thickness increased, KOSHI, NUMERI, and FUKURAMI of 3D printed lace/voil composite fabric increased. From the results of the primary hand value test, 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics were confirmed to be applicable to women's summer garments. As a result of the washability and dry cleaning resistance test of the 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics, all samples were graded 4-5.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.109-117
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• 2016

Synthetic fabrics, such as nylon and polyester, were dyed with persimmon juice by using a padding mangle repeatedly. The mechanical properties of these synthetic fabrics were analyzed using the Kawabata evaluation system. The following findings were obtained from this investigation. As the number of repetitions of padding dyeing increased, the tensile energy per unit area and the tensile resilience of synthetic fabric remained almost unchanged, whereas the linearity of the load-extension curve of the synthetic fabrics increased. As the number of padding repetitions increased, the synthetic fabrics dyed with persimmon juice exhibited increases in thickness and weight. As the number of repetitions of padding treatment with persimmon juice increased, the values of stiffness, anti-drape stiffness, fullness, and softness also increased, whereas the flexibility with soft feeling, crispness, and scrooping sensation significantly decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabrics increased after three repetitions of padding treatment with persimmon juice. Nylon and polyester fabrics were dyed evenly with persimmon juice treated using a padding mangle.