• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제8권3호
• /
• pp.357-362
• /
• 2006

This study is to evaluate the objective sensibility of the commercial lining fabrics. Five kinds of the linings were collected by adding taffetas with four kinds of fibers (polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate) to one polyester stretch fabric. The six basic mechanical and hand properties were studied by using KES-FB system (Kawabata Evaluation System). The result of measuring the mechanical properties shows that polyester has high bending rigidity (B), that polyester-stretch has a high value of linearity of load-extension curve (LT), tensile energy (WT), tensile resilience (RT), and coefficient of friction (MIU) and a low value of bending rigidity(B), shear property, and geometrical roughness (SMD). The nylon has a high value of bending rigidity (B), shear property, and compression resilience (RC). The rayon has a high value of coefficient of friction (MIU) and linearity of compression-thickness curve (LC) and a low value of shear property, and the acetate has a low value of shear property. The result of hand value shows that polyester, nylon, and acetate are a high value of KOSHI (stiffness), NUMERI (smoothness), and FUKURAM (fullness & softness), and they feel stiff and massive, that rayon has a low value of NUMERI and FUKURAMI. The total result of hand value shows that polyester taffeta and polyester stretch fabric are about the same as the best material for the lining of a woman's dress for spring and summer, and the next thing is acetate, but nylon and rayon are somewhat inferior materials. This provides a fundamental data for the comfortable clothing production of a higher value-added product through the study on the mechanical and hand properties of the lining as well as the right side of fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제22권8호
• /
• pp.1079-1089
• /
• 1998

Various fabrics, including natural fibers, regenerated cellulosic fibers, synthetic fibers, blend yarn, and mixture fabrics, were treated with the solutions of high purity chitosan in 1% acetic acid, having high viscosity of 930cps or low viscosity of 8cps. Physical/ mechanical properties of the treated fabrics samples were measured using Kawabata Evaluation System and drape tester. From these, hand values and total hand values of the fabric samples were calculated using Kawabata-Niwa translation equations. KOSHI, SHARI, HARI values have increased for the treated samples, while FUKURAMI values have decreased in general.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제20권5호
• /
• pp.792-800
• /
• 1996

The shape retention finishing provides a fabric for easiness of no-ironing after laundering. In spite of the obvious importance of the new finishing treatment, few systematic studies have been performed on the handle of the fabrics finished by the durable press process. The purpose of this research is to investigate the relationships among the mechanical properties, durable press conditions, primary hand values and the total hand value of the fabrics finished by shape retention process. In this experiment, durable press grade of unfinished fabrics decreased below 2.5, but those of finished fabrics maintained above 4, but the mechanical properties of finished fabrics did not change significantly after laundering. In finished fabrics, D.P. value were correlated with mechanical properties, but had little effects with H.V. and T.H.V. Since the evaluation of the effect of durable press process was done with the naked eyes and standard sample, we could not know exactly change o( mechanical properties, but trace the change of mechanical properties which gave influences on the durable press effects by using KES-FB System.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
• /
• 제28권1호
• /
• pp.143-154
• /
• 2017

This study was conducted to develop fabrics using non-toxic and eco-friendly natural dyes made from curcuma and coffee extract. The natural dyes were applied to non-printed cotton fabrics using the dip dyeing method, and the pattern was hand-printed onto the dyed fabrics to make dyed printed-fabrics. The four types of developed fabric samples were compared to analyze the effects of the dyeing materials and printing on the hygienic properties of curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics. The findings were as follows. First, air permeability of both curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics was greatly affected by the presence of patterns, although the type of dye did not seem to have an effect. Printing greatly reduced air permeability of the fabric, and coffee-dyed fabric showed greater reduction of dyeing method than curcuma-dyed fabric. Moisture regain also tended to decrease with printing, but the change was much smaller compared to air permeability. Second, increased UV blockage was observed in curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics with patterns compared to non-printed fabrics, showing that printing enhanced UV blocking. Third, deodorization rate tended to increase sharply for both curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics until 30 minutes and gradually increased thereafter to yield 30% for curcuma and 50% for coffee at 120 minutes, demonstrating higher deodorization of coffee dye. Coffee-dyed fabric showed an antibacterial rate about twice as high as that of curcuma-dyed fabric, and the observed data suggest that curcuma-dyed fabric had an insignificant level of antibiosis. Fourth, printing significantly enhanced wash, sunlight, and compound colorfastness of the two types of dyed fabrics. The effect of printing was most dramatic on sunlight and compound colorfastness, which are aspects in which natural dyed fabrics perform poorly in general. Eventually, the development and application of biologically- and environmentally-friendly fabrics with natural dyes correspond with increased interest towards the wellness and healthy attitudes of modern society.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제16권5호
• /
• pp.791-799
• /
• 2014

For development of dyeability, the rayon fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. The merit of padding-based dyeing was easier color reproduction over traditional hand dyeing where various colors and color fastness to light and laundering are hard to obtain. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed rayon fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curve and tensile energy per unit length of the rayon fabrics were increased, but the tensile resilience of fabrics were decreased. The value of shear stiffness and shear hysteresis were increased. Also compression resilience and linearity of compression thickness were increased. The rayon fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight increase as the number of padding increase. As repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice were increased, among the 6 hand values, the item of koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness), fukurami(fullness and softness) were increased. while Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Shari(crispness) were greately decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabric was gradually increased as the padding times of dyeing.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제31권1호
• /
• pp.57-67
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to find out the better washing condition, especially on detergent contents to satisfy the consumer's concern on fabric hand using Drum Type Washer. The hand and preference of washed fabrics by various detergent contents were analyzed through subjective evaluation using questionnaire method in dry and wet state. Wine rank's semantic differential scale questions were developed with 27 kinds of adjective pairs and seven rank's scale questions were to evaluate preference of washed fabrics oil holistic touch, washing and rinsing effect and purchase intention of detergent. Group of trained panelists and untrained women panelists of $30{\sim}40$ years old were participated. The factors affecting consumer's taste for the washed fabrics were analyzed by SPSS 12.0. Smoothness showed relatively higher correlation with preference of washed fabrics on holistic touch, washing and rinsing effect and purchase intention of detergent. There were significant differences in preference of washed fabrics on holistic touch, washing and rinsing effect and purchase intention of detergent by detergent contents when tested in wet state. Fabrics washed with detergents of non-zeolite were appeared to be the preferred ones.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제28권8호
• /
• pp.1153-1164
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study was to knitted nine kinds of single knit and examined mechanical properties and hand to provide the fact that knit, tuck and miss stitch applied to various structure have an effect on hand of weft knitted fabrics. It was good to use tuck stitch rather than miss stitch to increase elasticity of knitted fabrics. As tuck stitch and miss stitch were double or triple overlaps, tensile resilence(RT) decreased by increase of friction contacted among stitch. As cross tuck stitch and cross miss stitch were knitted double or triple, bending rigidity(B), hysteresis of bending moment(2HB) and shearing(G) properties increased by jamming of stitch. As tuck stitch and miss stitch were overlap, thickness increased and they became thicker than miss stitch. Also, as they became thicker by these tuck stitch and miss stitch, compressional energy(WC) increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction(MIU) of cross tuck stitch was larger than coefficient of cross miss stitch. Mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) had a tendency to be larger as tuck stitch and miss stitch increased. As cross tuck stitch and cross miss stitch were overlaps double or triple, KOSHI and FUKURAMI increased, total hand value(TIV) and NUMERI appeared high in double cross tuck stitch and double cross miss stitch.

• 공업화학
• /
• 제9권5호
• /
• pp.715-718
• /
• 1998

본 연구에서는 수직섬유의 길이가 서로 다른 삼차원 유리직물을 보강재로 사용하고, 매트릭스 수지로 비스페놀 타입 비닐 에스테르 (bisphenol type vinyl ester)를 사용하여 hand lay-up을 이용해 복합재료 (3D composites)를 제조하였다. 삼차원 유리직물의 수직섬유의 길이가 복합재료의 기계적 물성에 미치는 영향을 three-point bending test, flatwise compression test를 통해 조사하였다. Short-beam test법 통하여 복합재료에서의 섬유와 매트릭스 수지간의 계면접착강도를 나타내는 층간 전단강도를 구하였다. 시험 결과를 통하여 수직섬유의 길이가 복합재료의 기계적 물성 및 층간 전단강도에 많은 영향을 미침을 알 수 있었다.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제8권5호
• /
• pp.31-40
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the physical properties, bending and luster properties, which are related to the touch and appearance of silk fabrics modified by the degumming process. The silk has long been known as one of the most elegant and soft textile materials. The raw silk yarn, or cocoon bave, spun from the spinneret, is rather stiff due to the sericin covering the two fibroins together. The sericin can be removed during a degumming process. The removal of the sericin would result in remarkable change in the physical properties of the raw silk fabrics, including luster of the fabrics, which process parameters could possibly be utilized to adequately control the silk fabric properties. The KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) is a testing methodology that has been used with considerable success for predicting the hand and tailorability of apparel fabrics. This study uses one of the KES, bending tester, to measure the bending properties of the silk fabrics degummed for specified period to change the physical/mechanical properties of the fabric. The KES bending measurement revealed that the bending rigidity decreased for both the warp and weft direction of the silk fabrics with the increase of the degumming period. It has been shown in this study that the some of the hand-related physical properties, including the bending rigidity, drapability, and luster, could be modified with the change in the degumming period.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
• /
• 제18권1호
• /
• pp.27-39
• /
• 1976

복합견방사 및 복합견직물을 시작하여 다음의 결과를 얻었다. 1 정연제별 처리효과는 규산소다, 가성소다, 탄산소 및 비누의 순이다. 2. 가성소다 3% 액으로 정연할 경우는 견담백질의 과잉 용해로 진면제조가 불가하다. 3. 견의 정연효과는 처리시간보다 농도가 크다. 4. 정연제의 단독사용보다는 이중이상을 혼용하는 것이 진면품질을 향상시킬 수 있다. 5. 견수방사의 명주소리와 광택향상을 위하여서는 유기산의 혼용이 요구된다. 6. 심사에 의하여 복합수방사의 강도는 증가한다. 7. 복합수방사의 성도변동율은 8∼l2%이다. 8. 견과 데도롱직의 염색은 이욕법으로 처리하여야 한다. 9. 복합수방사 견직물의 수축율은 23%이다. 10. 복합수방사직물은 여자용 동복지로 복합생사 직물은 부라우스지로 사용 가능하다.