• 복식
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• 제46권
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• pp.159-170
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• 1999

This study was for reasonable gathering by a fabric and a skirt length. So the purpose of this study was to show the basic data to forecast the gathering effect of gathered skirt which was more aesthetical and suitable for a use in time of making pattern. To find the reasonable gathering amount by a length of gathered skirt and a fabric the methods of this study were divided on three types-five kinds of the gathering amounts three kinds of fabrics and three kinds of skirt ength-so forty five kinds of the samples were made. As the visual evaluation of the gathered skirt were practiced bgy these factors. The following are the results of this research. 1. For this research of fabrics the gathering amounts which were shown visually the most aesthetical silhouette in the same material and skirt length were decided on 1.5 times or 2.0 times. On the other side 0.5 times and 2.5 times of gathering amount were got a low estimation visually 2. Except in case the skirt length was 40cm and gathering amount were 1.0 times and 1.5 times in the same gathering amount and length of skirt it was estimated that wool fabric was most aesthetical silhouette fabric. On the other hand it was got low estimation which the cotton was not good for draping effect because it was got the lowest estimation level in all cases. 3. Considered as a whole in the same gathering amount and fabric the fabric widths for gathering which were shown the most aesthetical silhouette were estimated the length of 60cm in cotton fabric 80cm in polyester fabric and 40cm in wool fabric. Therefore as a fabric was weighty a length of a skirt was shorten so, it was estimated visually more beautiful.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권7호
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• pp.997-1007
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• 2005

The textile finishing methods utilizing chitosan have been mostly focused on the applications in the improvement of the dyeing of cotton fabrics, or the improvement of hand of the cotton or wool fabrics. On the other hand, it Is difficult to find the application examples in the synthetic fiber fabrics including polyester and nylon fabrics. The aim of this study is to improve the stiffness and the poor wash fastness of the fabrics treated only with chitosan. We tried to improve the softness by employing chitosan and polyurethane mixture solution and to prevent the detachment of the chitosan from the fabric. The treatment was applied to cotton, polyester, and nylon fabrics. The change of the properties of the treated fabrics were investigated. The optimum finishing condition was sought by changing the mixture ratio of the chitosan/PU(polyurethane) solutions. The adjusted ratios of the chitosan/PU solutions were 1 : 0, 1 : 0.25, 1 : 0.5, and 1 : 2 during the mixture solution preparation. Using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System), the physical and mechanical properties of the finished fabric specimens were analyzed, and hand values of the specimens were calculated through the use of translational formulas. According to the chemical composition of the fibers, chitosan solution or chitosan/PU mixture exhibited wide range of coating effect. Since the chitosan acid solution has high polarity, the bonding force with the cotton fibers is high. By the appropriate addition of PU in the chitosan treatment of cotton, KOSHI and HARI values of the fabric improved. The air permeability of the chitosan/PU treated cotton fabric specimen improved, resulting in the highest value at the mixture of chitosan : PU=1:0.25.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.1015-1026
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• 2006

The purpose of the study were to find out (1) the effect of motives on perceiver's image perception on ramie fabrics, and perceiver's trait, age and gender on sensory image evaluation of ramie fabrics. The research was a quasi experiment and experimental materials developed for the study were a set of material stimuli and semantic differential scales to measure sensory image of the stimuli, an aesthetic value scale. the independent design was motif design techniques(Plain Weave, burnt-out, embroidery, stripe, check). The subjects were 421 adults in Daejeon and Seachun. The results was as follows: The factor analysis of semantic differential scales for the ramie materials emerged 4 different image dimensions: attractiveness, hand, elegance, weight). The five design techniques showed significantly different image affects on some selective dimensions. The burn-out design gave the most attractive image, the embroidery design gave the softest image and plain weaved fabric presented the lightest hand image. Consumer's aesthetic values, gender and age tended to affect sensory image evaluation of ramie materials. On conclusion the result revealed that design strategy for the ramie material, design development though motives will be an essential process. and for material design pursued design image and target consumer's trait should be carefully considered.

• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 2002년도 춘계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.190-194
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• 2002

Human uses sight, tactile sense to evaluate Total Hand Value(FUUAI) of textile fabrics. Tactile sense is important factor which decided the Total Hand Value of a textile fabric. When human feels the FUUAI, physical and physiological phenomena are occurred in finger. We first found out physical variable that is happened in fingertip when human is feeling the FUUAI. Such physical variable means characteristic of action tactual motion of finger such as moving range, tactile time, moved distance, speed of finger and applied force by finger. We study the relationship between action tactual motion and the ability in which the human distinguishes the textile fabric. As a result, we could know the characteristics of the tactual motion of fingertip to get high distinguishable ability. The characteristics were different in men and women respectively. In the case of man, touched time and moving range influenced to distinguish, and moving range, and the moving speed of finger influenced, in woman's case.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.40-47
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• 2003

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of Tencel denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis. The subjective hand and the preference of Tencel denim fabrics were evaluated using the developed scale. The factors affecting consumers taste for Tencel denim fabrics were analyzed by statistics using SAS program. Also, the effects of cellulase treatment on the properties of Tencel denim fabrics were evaluated by the subjective hand measurements. The results are as follows: As the weight loss increased. fabrics were evaluated as finer, smoother, softer, warmer, more refined (surface properties), more compact and weaker (durability), more flexible, flossier, lighter, softer, thinner (sense of weight), more elastic, and less wrinkly (shape recovery). Fabrics were evaluated to have the dry touch regardless to the rate of weight loss (moisture properties). Overall hand preference of Tencel denim fabrics was in the side of not preferred. Hand of Tencel fabrics seems not to appeal to Korean people. Color preferences were not significantly different among five groups. The correlations between subjective hand and preference showed that fine, smooth, flexible, warm, refined, loose, soft, dry touches were preferred in Tencel denim fabrics.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.312-322
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• 2019

The mechanical properties of developed fabrics which were composed of soluble yarns and stretch fibers were analyzed using the Kawabata Evaluation System. The following findings were obtained from this investigation. Fabrics woven with lightweight yarns can be easily deformed by external forces. But when the fabric were woven using thick lightweight yarns reduced the slippage between the fibers, which makes it difficult to deform due to external force, thereby maintaining a certain space from the human body. As for the weight of the fabric per unit thickness, it was found that fabrics were compose of lightweight spun yarn was lightweight relatively. Lightweight yarns were more flexible than regular yarns because of the reduced bending and shear properties that greatly affect the lattice pattern. smoother, more flexible, and the better the bend was recovered. As fabrics increased content of using of lightweight spun yarn was increased flexible and smooth, and bending recovery.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.17-25
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• 2006

We performed the objective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics with knitted fabrics as basis, knitted five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yams made by different twisting methods(the amount and direction of twist) then, measuring mechanical properties in the use Kawabata Evaluation System, obtaining hand values and total hand values. The results are as follows: First, A(F)/W acrylic/wool spun knits obtain high scores in bending, compressing, shear properties, MMD, and thickness among five kinds of acrylic-blended knit fabrics. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knit represented prominent values at compressing properties and thickness and so wool-blended yams demonstrated superior characters comparing other blended yarns. To contrast, acrylic/rayon blended knits showed low scores in bending properties, shear properties and thickness, so that it affects to total hand values. On the one hand, among the four kinds of acrylic filament knitted fabrics, they do not exhibit any notable dynamic differences such as tensile properties of knitted fabrics by the twist number and direction of filament yarns, bending, shear, compressing properties, weight and thickness except surface properties. Second, fabrics showed the most high score at FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) among the hand values. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knits obtaining the lowest values at SAHRI (crispness) outrank at total hand values, so that it was the predominant knitted fabric in objective sensibility evaluation. In total hand values, five kinds of acrylic blended knits got a higher score than four kinds of acrylic filament knits, and the amount and direction of twist did not influence on total hand values among the four kinds of acrylic filaments.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권8호
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• pp.1141-1149
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• 1998

Tencel fabrics were treated with NaOH, mechanically prefibrillated, and hydrolyzed by cellulase. Softner was applied to improve hand of the treated Tencel fabrics after prefibrillation and cellulase treatment. Kawabata's Evaluation System for Fabrics(KES-FB) was used to evaluate effects of NaOH pretreatment, prebifrillation, and cellulase and softner treatments on fabric hand of the treated fabrics. Primary hand values of women's medium thick fabrics such as KOSHI, NUMERI, FUKURAMI, and SOFUTOSA, and total hand values were evaluation parameters. As the treatments of prefibrillation, cellulase, and softner progressed, values in bending and shearing properties decreased and softness and elasticity were imparted to the treated fabrics. Specifically, compressional linearity, compressional energy, and thickness of the treated fabrics increased by prefibrillation, providing bulkiness to the treated fabrics. Values indicating surface properties increased owing to fibrils formed by prefibrillation treatment, but removal of fibrils by cellulase treatment enhanced smoothness. As the fabrics were exposed to various treatments such as NaOH pretreatments, prefibrillation, and cellulase and softner treatments, NUMERI, FUKURAMI, SOFUTOSA, and total hand values increased with the exception of KOSHI, Consequently, the treated fabrics became softer, smoother, and more elastic. Especially, the NaOH pretreatment provided superior SOFUTOSA to Tencel fabrics.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.163-172
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• 2010

In order to investigate the changes in mechanical properties of sanitary nonwoven fabrics actually used as a top sheet, the fabric was treated with a mixture of chitosan and nanosilver colloidal solution in accordance with the prescribed ratio. The former is a natural polymer with excellent biocompatibility and the latter can give an additional performance while compensating the weaknesses of chitosan of deteriorating adherence efficiency. It was shown that the bending and shearing characteristics of the chitosan/nanosilver treated fabrics decreased, which helped to make it softer, smoother and more flexible. The shape stability and drapability of the treated fabrics improved. As KES-FB system evaluation showed that Koshi was deduced, and both Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the chitosan/nanosilver treated fabrics were smoother to provide elasticity. In the change of hand value compared to chitosan only treatment, a better THV was shown in the fabrics treated with chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution than the fabric treated with chitosan alone.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.1025-1034
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to examine the evaluation of fabric characteristics on the drapability, texture image and preference of blouse fabrics, and to analyze the effects of the texture image, objective and subjective drapability on the preference. As specimen, silk and polyester fabrics were collected. 52 female subjects evaluated 16 specimens with semantic differential scale of 18 fabric image and 20 sensibility. Data were analyzed through factor analysis, pearson correlational coefficient using spss win 12.0. For the evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, weave type, weight and thickness were analyzed. The results were as follows: The evaluation results of objective and subjective drapability showed differences. Sensory image factors of blouse fabrics were 'surface smoothness', 'elasticity', 'weight' and 'flexibility'. Sensibility image factors were 'elegance', 'classic', 'characteristic' and 'mannish'. 'Elegance', 'classic' and 'characteristic' of sensibility images showed high correlation with 'surface smoothness' and 'elasticity' of sensory image, also 'mannish' of sensibility image showed significant correlation with 'weight' of sensory image. The significant fabric characteristics affecting objective drapability were density, weight, thickness. The significant texture image factors affecting objective drapability were 'weight', 'flexibility' of sensory image and 'elegance' of sensibility image. On the other hand, the significant factors affecting subjective drapability were thickness of fabric characteristics and 'elegance', 'characteristic', 'mannish' of sensibility images. 'Elegance', 'characteristic' and 'classic' of sensibility image, 'elasticity' of sensory image and subjective drapability affected on the purchase preference.