• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.6
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• pp.13-23
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• 2004

To date, Italian fashion rans the top even its rise is far behind Paris and New York. The purpose of this study is to analyze and compare the aesthetic characteristics of the italian fashion through two representative designers who contributed to italian fashion. Italy had unique industrial system and craftsmanship from the history and sense of the beauty and the uniqueness from the culture. After the World War II, Italy started to produce elegant sportswears influenced by the progressive manufacturing techniques and practical culture of America. Italian fashion of 'easy elegance' is spearheaded by Vesace and Armani. The aesthetic characteristics of Italian fashion which are shown in the artworks of them are as follows. First, the characteristics of Versace dated from southern sensibility are sensualism, expressionism, historicism. 1) Sensualism: tight silhouette, overexposure, glamorous form, brilliant color, fabric showing femininity, gaudy accessaries 2) Expressionism: brilliant print and color, trimmings and accessaries 3) Historicism: form and motifs that are shown in the historical costume Second, the characteristics of Armani succeeded from northern tailoring are purism, functionalism, and multi-culturism. 1) Purism: clean lines, architectural and geometric forms, natural body line, neutral tones, luxurious fabric 2) Functionalism: functional form, neutral tone, natural fabrics 3) Multi-culturism: design and motif inferred from ethnic costume As such. competition between two different groups made it possible that Italian fashion occupies a special place in the international fashion system.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.69-79
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to find the proper width of fabric which can bring high efficiency on productivity. We focus on the marking method by comparing and analyzing the marking efficiency of A-line skirt. This study employs 4 criteria to mark the A-line skirt, which are cutting method, angle, width, and direction, respectively. There can be 2 different cutting methods(fold pattern and add seam pattern at the front and back center line), and 2 different angles(warp angle and bias angle). Also, width of the fabric can be classified into 2 groups(110cm, 150cm), and marking direction can be grouped into 2(one direction marker and one direction per each size marker). These 4 criteria make 16($2^*2^*2^*2$) cases for this study. Main findings are follows. First, the skirt with folded at the center line had higher efficiency rate than the skirt with add seam at the center line. Second, the skirt with the 150cm width has higher efficiency rate than that of 110cm. Third, fixing the warp angle has higher efficiency rate than that of fixing the bias angle at the front and back center line. Finally, one direction per each size marker has much higher efficiency than the one direction marker.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.555-563
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• 2010

This research has attempted for a categorization by contemplating on concepts and characteristics of eco fashion design through analysis of precedent studies and to study the design characteristics, images, and internal values through keyword and design codes which appeared in the precedent studies. The subject of analysis was mostly focused on the theses published in international and domestic academic journals from 1990s to September 2009. The design characteristics of each eco fashion design were analyzed by classifying by form, detail, color, fabric and pattern. Method of analysis did content analysis. The results of the research can be summarized as follows. First of all, types of eco fashion design were human-ecology design, natural-ecology design, and social-ecology design. Secondly, the human-ecology design was presented a natural and comfortable form, color of the nature, and functional and new materials. The natural-ecology design was presented a natural silhouette, natural colors, and natural fiber. The social-ecology design were used a loose silhouette and over-size forms, natural colors, and recycled materials and bio fabric. Thirdly, the images per type of eco fashion design were Zen, sportive, natural, and modern image. And the internal values were presented efficiency, health-orientation, naturalness, and continuity.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.318-326
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• 2015

A pre-treatment process is essential for getting high quality of digital textile printing(DTP). In this study, we have studied three kinds of carrageenan polymer(k-, ${\lambda}$-, i-Carrageenan) as a pre-treatment thickening agent for the first time. Alginate polymer was also examined and its results were compared with that of the three kinds of carrageenan polymer. To confirm the performance of each thickening agent, we examined for a sharpness, color strength and fastness(washing, rub, light). The result showed that ${\lambda}$-Carrageenan has superior property in sharpness with low viscosity and i-Carrageenan was excellent in the color strength among the pre-treatment agents. Washing fastness to color change and staining for the all samples were 4 or 4-5 grade. Both dry and wet rubbing fastness of the samples were 4-5 grade. However, ${\lambda}$-Carrageenan coated sample has the lowest grade in light fastness. As a result, we found the possibility of carrageenan polymer as pre-treatment agent.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.19-29
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to investigate Renaissance wall-covering fabrics through Flemish paintings, that provides the details of the origin and development of background of modern wallcovering. The methods of the study are as follows. First, the background of textile development of Flanders in the 14^th to 16^th centuries were examined through a prior study. Second, the shape and use of wallcoverings in paintings painted during that time were analyzed and the process of changing to modern forms was studied. The residential environment with many stone buildings in relatively humid and cold weather created a need for decorative fabrics. Back then, the wool and flax fabric were not allowed to be worn on the body, so the materials were used for the development of interior fabrics. The characteristics of wall covering in Flemish paint can be summarized with movable, allegory, and decoration. Movable stems from the arrival of the emerging aristocrats of Flanders, who had enormous commercial trade and carried decorative fabrics; the mobility has become an allegory in reality as the royal and aristocratic use of wall-decorated fabrics is the symbol of authority. In addition, unlike Italy, where silk was procured from the East, fabrics manufactured using flax and wool were not suitable for clothing in terms of religion and practicality and were used to decorate walls.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.149-159
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• 2009

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.461-472
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive style of radical feminism and post-modern feminism appearing on the contemporary denim fashion by examining pictures from professional fashion magazine Vogue. For this study, I investigated documents to study the characteristic of radical feminism and post-modern feminism and classified the contemporary denim fashion into erotic look, endrogynous look and deconstructive look. The results of study on the expression style of feminism reflected on the contemporary denim fashion were as follows: First, radical feminism emphasizes that women's sexual feature is never inferior to men's. Therefore in denim fashion, erotic style which emphasize on women's sexual beauty is represented by making hot pants, mini skirt, halter blouse of denim and by using colored jeans and flower print or beads on denim. Second, post-modern feminism has been represented by disregarding or intergrating the existed rule as refusing sexual discrimination. It has been represented in fashion as an endrogynous style by representing neutral gender image. Today, it is represented in denim fashion by mixing a different fabric with denim and matching womanish design with mannish design. Third, post-modem feminism are classified into unfixed expression of genders and the deconstructive expression of methodology. The deconstructive expression of denim fashion is represented by using the damage of fabric by making a hole or tearing intentionally or fraying edge of denim. Also the unfinished designs and transformed dressing are used to express the deconstructive character in denim.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.191-206
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• 2013

Nowadays consumers have begun to have interest in eco-friendliness, and re-design is being highlighted as a fashion alternative for consumers with interest in ethical consumption. This study established the concept of re-design fashion as a way to practice eco-friendly design and analyzed various re-design fashions with four types. And it also analyzed decorative and structural details being often employed for re-design. This study intends to suggest new alternative fashion in order to develop re-design fashion design that can satisfy both eco-friendliness and practicality. The results of the research are as follows: First, according to the result of analyzing re-design fashion types, they can be divided into the types of developing new products through combination of decorative details, combination of structural details, development of new fabric through fabric reconstruction, and reconstruction to different products. Second, according to the result of examining the details that can be used to develop new re-design fashion products, pleats, shirring, tuck, peplum, or tab's decorative details and neck-line, collars, sleeves, cuffs, or pocket's structural details are utilized often. Third, total seven recycled clothes were used to design three works taking decorative and structural details. Through this, the study suggests re-design fashion products that can solve environmental pollution resulted from wastes of clothes.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Interior Design Conference
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• 2008.05a
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• pp.159-162
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• 2008

The main consumers of wedding market are young people. They prefer differentiated and unique wedding and with the deregulation of using five-star hotels as wedding spaces in 1999, the wedding market has entered into an era of new competition. Under the background like above, this study tries to provide the basis for the effective and systematic interior coordination of wedding spaces. For this study, large banquet halls at 16 five-star hotels in Seoul were selected. Theoretical and field examinations, and interviews were conducted. The elements of wedding space include the architectural elements of floor, walls, and ceiling and lighting, color, fabric, table setting, and flower coordination. This study found that uniformity or repetition is used for the walls while modules are used for the ceiling. Unlike the past, LED is used for lighting to create diverse colors and the range of colors used has been broadened. In addition, fabric, table setting, and flowers are used actively to create overall atmosphere of the space. When these elements are aggregated and analyzed by hotel for interior design style, Hotels H and S have modern style, Hotels L and P have elegant style and Hotel IP have classical style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.545-553
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• 2003

A good school uniform leads students to good behavior and have them enjoy desirable school life. Therefore a better fabric for girls' high school uniform suggested through two series of studies; first, examined the various aspects of current uniforms. Second, made a new fabric for uniform considering elasticity for activity and comfortableness, and compared its characteristics with those of the current uniforms. The results are as follows; 1 Most of students wanted uniforms considering elasticity for activity and wearing. 2. The measurement of the elasticities of the uniform materials showed that the material which was made using the elastic material was more elastic than the currently used material by 42.12% in summer material and 20.05% in winter one. 3. The analysis using the combination of the values of mechanical properties showed that the elastic material was better in the wearing, tactile senses, and drape properties than the current material, even though it was a little worse in shape-stability. 4. To compare the thermal insulation, clo values were measured. For winter uniform, the elastic material was better than the current one in keeping warm. However, This study did not find any big difference between summer uniform materials.