• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.67-72
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• 1987

견직물의 효소정련에 있어서 조련정도가 효소정련한 견직물의 특성에 미치는 영향을 구명하기 위하여 조련정도가 다른 효소정련견포에 대하여 KES-F System을 적용하여 역학적 특성 즉 인장, 굽힘, 약단, 압축 및 표면특성을 측정하고 태값을 산출하여 비교한 결과는 아래와 같다. 1. 능하부다이 견직물의 경우 조련연감율이 증가와 함께 포의 stiffness는 감소되고 smoothness는 향상되었으나 종합 태값인 soft feeling은 조련 20%에서 가장 우수하였다. 2. 크\ulcorner데신 견직물의 경우 anti-drape stiffness는 조련정도가 커지는데 따라서 증가되었으나 기타 특성과 종합 태값인 Flexibility with soft feeling은 조련정도와 상관이 인정되지 않았다.

• 감성과학
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.191-196
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• 2011

노즐시험기로 측정되는 직물의 당김 힘은 직물이 갖는 포괄적인 촉감을 나타낸다. 노즐시험기는 기존 KES 시스템보다 저가이며, 측정에 있어서 절차가 간단하고 빠르다. 본 연구에서는 노즐시험기로 측정되는 직물의 촉감을 정량적으로 평가하기 위해 마찰법칙을 기초로 하여 반 실험적 촉감 방정식을 개발하였다. 모델 식에서 고려된 변수들은 직물의 마찰계수, 그리고 직물의 굽힘 길이와 전단 신도에 의해 결정되는 직물의 3차원적 변형 특성을 나타내는 드레이프 계수이다. 12 종류의 서로 다른 물성의 면과 폴리에스터 직물들을 사용하여 실험 측정한 촉감 값과 모델 방정식으로부터 예측한 촉감 값들을 비교 분석하였다. 높은 마찰계수, 높은 굽힘 길이, 그리고 낮은 전단 신도를 갖는 직물일수록 높은 촉감 마찰력, 즉 낮은 촉감 성능을 보여주었다. 실험 측정한 촉감 값과 모델 식으로부터 계산한 값들 사이 잘 일치하였으며, 이와 같은 결과는 모델 식을 사용하여 직물의 고유 물성들로써 촉감의 객관적인 예측이 가능함과 더불어 촉감 성능의 향상을 위한 직물설계에 있어서도 유용한 정보를 제공할 수 있음을 보여준다.

• 복식
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• 제33권
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• pp.217-228
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investigate influence of the construction method of the circular skirt on drapability and shape of static silhouette and length variation. In made 24 types of skirts giving the variations (six kinds of peach skin-like finished fabrics two types of cutting method two types of machine stitch method of hem), The results were as follows: 1. Analysis of drapability In the cutting method thre was similarity between warp direction and true bias direc-tion. In the machine stitch method of hem there was similarity between blind stitch and blind stitch machine. According to the fabrics analysis of drapability was excellent in the order N/P 80/20(fabric 1)>P 100(fabric 5)>P 100(fabric 6)>P 100 (fabric 2)>P 100 (fabric 4)>N/C 50/50(fabric 3). 2. Analysis of the characteristics values of static silhouette shape In the cutting method shape of static sil-houette became wide in the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem shape of static silhouette became wide in the blind stitch. According to the fabrics shape of static silhouette became most wide in the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) and shape of static sil-houette become most narrow in the P 100(fabric 2,5) 3. Analysis of the length variation In the cutting method the true bias direc-tion was longer than the warp direction. In the machine stitch method of hem there was simi-machine stitch method of hem there was simi-larity between blind stitch and blind stitch ma-chine. In fabrics the P 100(fabric 6) showed the longest the N/C 50/50(fabric 3) showed most slight. Interaction between the cutting and messure-ment part of skirt lengh. In the warp diretion parts that showed longest length variation were C. G, K, O in the true bias diretion parts that showed most slight length variation were A, E, M, I.

• 한국복합재료학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복합재료학회 2004년도 추계학술발표대회 논문집
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• pp.135-138
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• 2004

Because the compressive properties such as compressive stiffness and compressive maximum strength of the fabric composite materials are essential to analyse the drape behaviour and estimate the quality of the final products, compressive tests of fabric composites with different stacking sequences were performed. Appropriate shape and dimensions for the compressive test specimens were prepared and several specimens with different conditions were tested and compared with each other.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권5호
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• pp.881-891
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• 2021

This study proposes a simple drape measurement method for the 3D virtualization of garments. The proposed method uses angles or disks of different diameters to evaluate the drape properties easily. We divided 710 fabrics into ten groups based on the drape coefficient, of which 49.6% had drape coefficients of 30 or less. The drape properties were measured to classify the groups into smaller clusters using the angle formed when the center of the fabric was fixed. Accordingly, three clusters were formed for 60° and 100° angles. A method was devised using ten disks of different diameters to classify the remaining two clusters, except the cluster containing only the D10 group (D1-D5 and D5-D9). Three criteria-grade match, a sum of deviation, and standardization of deviation-were used for the classifications. The discriminative ability between groups was high for D1-D5 with disks with 24.0 and 25.5 cm diameters. Furthermore, a disk with a diameter of 16.5 cm was effective for D5-D9. The three-dimensional drape shapes were unique for the ten groups, which can be utilized as fundamental data for 3D virtualization.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 1997년도 추계총회 및 학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.330-333
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• 1997

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.25-34
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• 1996

Diphenyl ethanolamidophosphate(DPEAD) was synthesized for the purpose of developing a new flame retardant for cotton fabric. As the intermediate material was used diphenyl chlorophosphate(DPCP) and it was synthesized by using phosphorus oxychloride and phenol as the starting materials. The final product DPEAP was obtained by the reaction of DPCP and ethanolamine. The flame retardancy of cotton fabrics treated by DPEAP through pad-dry-cure(PDC) process was examined at various conditions. The physical property change of the DPEAP treated cotton fabrics were investigated by examining the drape stiffness, the wrinkle recovery, and the tensile strength. The results are summarized as follows: (1) DPEAP has shown excellent flame retardancy on cotton fabrics in comparison to other flame retardants for cotton fabrics available commercially. (2) The optimal condition for PDC process found was that the curing temperature was 16$0^{\circ}C$, the DPEAP concentration was 10%, the catalyst $({NH_{4})_{2}HPO_{4}$ concentration was 7.0%, and the fixing agent hexamethylol melamine (HMM)/DPEAP weight ratio was 1/8. (3) The wrinkle recovery of the processed fabrics increased with increasing DPEAP concentration. (4) The drape stiffness of the cotton fabrics treated by DPEAP have shown essentially no change until increasing DPEAP concentration to 15 %, however DPEAP concentration exceeds 20% the drape stiffness increased drastically with increasing DPEAP concentration. When DPEAP concentration is kept constant the drape stiffness increased with increasing $({NH_{4})_{2}HPO_{4}$ concentration and HMM/DPEAP weight ratio. (5) The tensile strength of the processed fabrics was lower than that of untreated fabrics, but the tensile strength retention increased with increasing DPEAP concentration.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.877-884
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• 2005

The importance and usefulness of a subjective evaluation of the sensorial properties of scoured silk fabrics is discussed. Silk fabric was treated at 12 different scouring rates and the scoured fabrics were used as specimens. Using paired comparisons, three trained subjects, evaluated seven subjective sensorial properties; softness, elasticity, drape, stiffness, crispness, and luster. A quad experimental design was adopted as an effective and reliable evaluation method. Results showed that some properties such as drape, luster were easily discriminated depending on the scouring rates whereas the smoothness was not easily discriminated. As the scouring rate increased, it was hard to discriminated the softness, drape, and stiffness, which indicates there is an optimum scouring rates to have a certain sensorial properties. It was suggested that these results should be applied to the manufacturing process.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권3_4호
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• pp.354-363
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• 2003

In this research, an internet-based fabric information system has been developed. Recently, the numbers of textile industries which have their own homepages to advertise their product fabrics fur apparel through the Internet and textile e-Commerce web sites rapidly increase. Unfortunately, traditional fabric information systems based on direct meeting and trust cannot give sufficient information to numerous visitors of the Internet sites including fabric buyers for apparel. They can just view 3-dimensional fabric images and text-based specifications such as fabric density, composition, colors, weight, etc. To solve these problems, the new fabric information system fur apparel has been developed. The web-based fabric information system is composed of the following six modules; $\circled1$ fabric database management system, $\circled2$ a 3-D fabric drape image viewer to illustrate fabric appearances, $\circled3$ a virtual wearing system to apply a fabric to garment designs, $\circled4$ a fabric property viewer to confirm fabric characteristics, $\circled5$ a QC (quality control) document generator to manufacture high qualify garments with a fabric, and$\circled6$actual display mall to view actual fabrics. The fabric information system is simply performed by visitors clicking the buttons hyper-linked with JAVA applets on web browser. The web-based fabric information system enables the web site visitors to understand fabrics shown on the Internet in more details.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.119-132
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• 2016

Weighting of silk fabrics have long been practiced in silk fabric trading based on the primary consideration of price-weight, and secondary one of quality improvement in handle, luster, and drape properties. Recent trend of practicing weighting of silk fabrics is, however, focused on the improvement of the handle, luster, drape, and other properties. During the finishing processes of synthetic fiber, nylon, comprising amide structure, include the use of tannic acid, especially in the dyeing. A multitude of studies are being implemented in terms of improving fastness to washing, fastness to light of dyed nylon product, or the light fastness of nylon 6 itself. In this study, the effects of various tannic acid treatments on the physical properties related to the handle of nylon 6 and silk fabrics are examined and reviewed. The effects of treatment condition of the tannic acid, e.g., the concentration of the aqueous tannic acid solution, treatment time, and temperature were investigated. As the concentration of the aqueous solution of tannic acid increased, the bending rigidity values of the silk and nylon 6 fabrics increased. The treated fabrics felt stiff to the touch. Within the mild conditions of bending employed in the bending measurement of KES, nylon 6 treated fabric specimen exhibited a trend of improvement of bending resiliency within the range of small bending deformation. The weight of treated fabrics have all increased. The air-permeability values decreased as the treatment concentration increased. However, the decrease tendency of air permeability values may be alleviated by adjusting the fabric count during the tentering or expanding processes, either by tension adjustment or heat treatment. Optimum conditions of the treatment for nylon 6 are 1.25% tannic acid concentration, bath temperature of $85^{\circ}C$, pH 3.1, and those for silk fabric treatment are 1.25% tannic acid concentration, bath temperature of $85^{\circ}C$, pH 3.1. The treatment conditions will lead to the improvement in the properties of fabrics for summer.