• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.185-195
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• 2002

This study was carried out to investigate the wearing silhouette of jackets according to the mechanical properties, primary hand value and total hand value of the 3 types of wool fabrics. Wool/PET(50/50), wool/PET(80/50) and wool(100%) fabrics were used as test specimens. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand value and total hand value were calculated by equation KN-203-LDY. We made three experimental jackets based on the precious jacket pattern and used Moir Photography to measure the amounts of space between the jacket clothes and body surface from the overlap cross section map. The results were as follows: 1) In mechanical properties, woo/PET(80/20) fabric showed higher bending and shear rigidity. 2) In evaluation of primary hand and total hand, wool 100% fabric showed higher NUMERI and FUKURAMI hand and total hand value. 3) From the reset of Moir Photography, the wearing shapes of the experimental jackets were influenced by the characteristics of fabrics. Except for the hip part, the garment ease of wool/PET(80/20) fabric was estimated more highly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate the mechanical properties and hand values of polypropylene knit and to analyze its color-fastness for light, laundering and abrasion, comparing to nylon and polyester knits. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Polypropylene stretched more with less force than nylon and polyester and its elastic recovery and shape stability were better than nylon and polyester. 2. Polypropylene was more flexible than nylon and polyester. 3. Polypropylene stretched more easily for shearing but its recovery from shearing was less than nylon and polyester. 4. Polyester had smoother surface than nylon and polyester. 5. Polypropylene was compressed more easily than polyester with less force but less than nylon. Its recovery from compression was more than nylon and polyester. 6. Polypropylene had lower KOSHI and SHARI values and higher FUKURAMI value than nylon and polyester. It had better T.H.V. value than nylon but less than! polyester. 7. Color fastness of polypropylene for lanudering, light, and abrasion in wet and dry conditions was good except polypropylene dyed with red color.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.144-153
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• 2001

The effect of crosslinking on hand of the cellulase treated Tencel fabrics was investigated. Tencel fabrics were crosslinked with DMDHEU, mechanically prefibrillated, hydrolyzed by cellulase, and treated with softener. The treated fabrics were characterized by add-on, weight loss, DP rating, WRA, strength, SEM analysis and hand measurement. As DMDHEU concentration increased, weight loss of DMDHEU/cellulase treated fabrics decreased. However, cellulase treatment decreased DP properties and strength retention. Less fibrils were observed in the cellulase treated fabrics after DMDHEU treatment than the cellulase treated ones. It was confirmed that crosslinking with DMDHEU treatment was effective to control fibrillation. At 5% of DMDHEU concentration, DMDHEU/cellulase treated fabrics showed softer, smoother and bulkier hand compared with other treated fabrics. Among mechanical properties, bending and shearing properties were decreased progressively through DMDHEU, cellulase, and softener treatment. DMDHEU treatment contributed to impart resilience, cellulase treatment to bulkiness and softener treatment to smoothness. As the treatment of DMDHEU, cellulase, and softener progressed NUMREI, FUKURAMI, and THV increased with the exception of KOSHI.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.287-297
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to investigate the Improvement of fiber surface, tenacity & elogation, fabric counts, thickness, handle, moisture regain, static voltage, handle, dyeability when polyester fabrics are treated with NaOH solution adding quartemary ammonium salt (Benzyl dimetyl dodecyl ammonium chloride . BDMDAC) The results are as follows. I. In regard to the method of processing VET, when the PET fabrics are alkaline-hydrolyzed adding BDMDAC, the weight loss of PET fabrics increased remarkably to the increse of BDMDAC concentration than when they are treated only in NaOH solution. When PET fabrics are alkaline-hydrolyzed the amount of BDMDAC as the catalyst is proper lg/1 II. The change in physical & chemical properties of alkaline-hydrolyzed PET fabrirs. 1. As the amount of the weight loss on PET fabrics increased, the void space of the PET yale increased but tenacity & elongation and thickness decreased. 2. The fabric counts of PET increased due to shrinkage by alkaline-hydrolydzing. 3. As the amount of of the weight loss on PET fabrics increased. NUMERI, FUKURAMI, increaseed and KOSHI decreased and Total hand value(T.H.V) in all cases increaseed. When the weight Ioss is 30.9% T.H.V. is best. 4. Moisture regain of PET fabrics a little increased by alkaline-hydrolyzing treatment. As the weight loss increased, static voltage is decreased. 5. The last dye absorption is different according to the degree of the Affinity. In regard to the difference of dye color, the dyestuff of low molecular weight dyed for deep color.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.791-799
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• 2014

For development of dyeability, the rayon fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. The merit of padding-based dyeing was easier color reproduction over traditional hand dyeing where various colors and color fastness to light and laundering are hard to obtain. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed rayon fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curve and tensile energy per unit length of the rayon fabrics were increased, but the tensile resilience of fabrics were decreased. The value of shear stiffness and shear hysteresis were increased. Also compression resilience and linearity of compression thickness were increased. The rayon fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight increase as the number of padding increase. As repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice were increased, among the 6 hand values, the item of koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness), fukurami(fullness and softness) were increased. while Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Shari(crispness) were greately decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabric was gradually increased as the padding times of dyeing.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.275-281
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate hand and sensibility of PET treated by Ultra-Violet (UV). The 4-channel PET knit fabric was treated by a self-made UV instrument in 5cm distance with different time frames-0min, 30min, and 90min. For hand evaluation, mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The environmental condition was controlled at 29$^{\circ}C$, 75% (R.H.)-summer standard climate. Twenty female students evaluated 'roughness', 'smoothness', 'wetness', 'stiffness', 'coolness', 'touch', 'preference', and 'comfort'. The outcomes of the experiment are as follows: The surface roughness of mechanical properties showed significant differences and the value of PET irradiated by UV for 90min was highest. The order of primary hand value such as NUMERI and FUKURAMI was in a following order-Untreated > 30min treated > 90min treated. Total hand value showed that PET irradiated by UV for 90min was appropriate for using summer fabric. The results of subjective sensibility were that the untreated and 30min treated PET were recognized as similar and had a good evaluation on 'comfort', 'preference' and 'the sense of touch'. This consequence disagreed with total hand value, because it was considered that subjects' hand sensibility was dependent on the feel of smoothness.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.15-26
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• 1994

Cotton fabrics were treated with the cellulase which is an enzyme to decompose cellulose and its actional mechanism is known. The optimum condition of the cellulase to the cotton fabrics and the weight losses, tensile strengths of the treated cotton fabrics were also obtained. The cellulase performs a specific catalytic action on the ${\beta}-1$, 4-glucosidic bonds of the cellulose molecules and hydrolyzes them. For that reason, the negative surface charges of the cotton fabrics were increased by additional generation. of hyrdoxyl groups. The increased surface charges cause the decrease of dye adsorption by inhibiting the approach of the anions of direct dyes. But, it was overcome by the use of enough amount of salt, it means that sodium ions of the salt neutralize the almost all of negative charges of the cotton fabrics. The improvement of the water absorbency is also due to the increased hydroxyl groups In addition, their handles including the mechanical properties were measured and caculated by KES system which is a measuring apparatus that numerizes and objectificates human's feeling, especially touch. As the results, we knew that KOSH(stiffness) and FUKURAMI(fulness & softness) were decreased and that NUMERI(smoothness) was increased.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.21-29
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• 2009

In order to enhance the functionality of a cotton fabric actually used as a clothing material for patients, the fabrics were treated with a chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution. The nanosilver had excellent biocompatibility, provided expectation of an additional performance, did not harm human beings, and supplements chitosan, which was disadvantaged if used alone for fabric treatment. The nanosilver was mixed thereto and a treatment effect due to a mixing ratio was considered. This study was observed through mechanical properties and hand value which were the important function. The treatment of chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution gave a smoother surface than the treatment of chitosan alone. As a result of evaluation of the forms according to KES-FB system, Koshi was deduced, and both Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the cotton fabric was a little smooth to provide elasticity, due to the treatment of chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution. THV of the treated fabrics calculated from this basis increased at all mixing ratio as compared with the untreated fabric. The fabrics treated with chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution were shown a better THV than the fabric treated with chitosan alone.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1749-1755
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• 2002

본연구의 목적은DP가공에 의한 가교화를 통해 텐셀의 피브릴화를 조절할 때 DP가공 방법 및 NaOH전처리 효과를 물성, 표면형태, 역학적 성질 및 태의 변화의 관점에서 고찰하는데 있다. SEM 분석결과DP가공에 의해 피브릴 발생 정도는 감소하였다. DP가공 방법에 있어 서 WF법과 PDC법에 따른 물성의 차이는 나타나지 않았다. 역학적특성의 경우 DP가공은 DP가공 방법에 상관없이 효소처리한 직물의 인장선형성에는 큰 영 향을 주지 않았으나 인장에 너지, 굽힘 강성, 압축선형성, 압축 레질리언스, 기하학적 거칠기는 감소시켰고 인장 레질리언스, 굽힘이력, 압축에너지는 증가시켰다. 전단특성은 WF법에서는 증가한 반면, PDC법에서는 감소하여 DP가공 방법에 따른 차이를 나타내었다. WF법이 PDC법보다 더 높은 Koshi, Numeri, Fukurami 값을 보였으며, 종합태 값은 비슷하게 나타났다. NaOH 전처 리에 의해 수지부착량은 감소하였으나 감량률은 증가하였으며, DP성/물성은 더 낮게 나타났다. NaOH 전처리에 의해 인장선형성, 인장에너지, 압축 레질리언스, 전단 및 굽힘특성은 증가하였으나 인장레질리언스와 압축선형성, 압축에너지, 표면특성은 감소하였다. NaOH 전처리한 경우 Koshi는 증가하였고, Numrei와 Fukuramil는 감소하였으며, 종합태 값은 가장 낮았다. 처리한 시료들은 각각 다른 감성과 촉감을 나타냈다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1153-1164
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to knitted nine kinds of single knit and examined mechanical properties and hand to provide the fact that knit, tuck and miss stitch applied to various structure have an effect on hand of weft knitted fabrics. It was good to use tuck stitch rather than miss stitch to increase elasticity of knitted fabrics. As tuck stitch and miss stitch were double or triple overlaps, tensile resilence(RT) decreased by increase of friction contacted among stitch. As cross tuck stitch and cross miss stitch were knitted double or triple, bending rigidity(B), hysteresis of bending moment(2HB) and shearing(G) properties increased by jamming of stitch. As tuck stitch and miss stitch were overlap, thickness increased and they became thicker than miss stitch. Also, as they became thicker by these tuck stitch and miss stitch, compressional energy(WC) increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction(MIU) of cross tuck stitch was larger than coefficient of cross miss stitch. Mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) had a tendency to be larger as tuck stitch and miss stitch increased. As cross tuck stitch and cross miss stitch were overlaps double or triple, KOSHI and FUKURAMI increased, total hand value(TIV) and NUMERI appeared high in double cross tuck stitch and double cross miss stitch.