• 복식
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• 제54권6호
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• pp.13-23
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• 2004

To date, Italian fashion rans the top even its rise is far behind Paris and New York. The purpose of this study is to analyze and compare the aesthetic characteristics of the italian fashion through two representative designers who contributed to italian fashion. Italy had unique industrial system and craftsmanship from the history and sense of the beauty and the uniqueness from the culture. After the World War II, Italy started to produce elegant sportswears influenced by the progressive manufacturing techniques and practical culture of America. Italian fashion of 'easy elegance' is spearheaded by Vesace and Armani. The aesthetic characteristics of Italian fashion which are shown in the artworks of them are as follows. First, the characteristics of Versace dated from southern sensibility are sensualism, expressionism, historicism. 1) Sensualism: tight silhouette, overexposure, glamorous form, brilliant color, fabric showing femininity, gaudy accessaries 2) Expressionism: brilliant print and color, trimmings and accessaries 3) Historicism: form and motifs that are shown in the historical costume Second, the characteristics of Armani succeeded from northern tailoring are purism, functionalism, and multi-culturism. 1) Purism: clean lines, architectural and geometric forms, natural body line, neutral tones, luxurious fabric 2) Functionalism: functional form, neutral tone, natural fabrics 3) Multi-culturism: design and motif inferred from ethnic costume As such. competition between two different groups made it possible that Italian fashion occupies a special place in the international fashion system.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.78-87
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• 2005

The Purposes of this article are to find Christian religion and Germany expressionism which were background of Nolde's art and analyze formation and special quality, expression mode of holy picture. If synthesize contents of these analysis, we could know that faith is giving religious inspiration continuously during his lift to Protestant experience through the Bible. Though there is some difference by time but we could foretell that he accomplished modern holy picture of new sensitivity by doing individual expression with equal Bible subject traditionally in 20th century that change unlike existent holy picture with these motive power. That is, with new trend which religious inspiration as imagination which spring up in experience that is not experience of artificial Christian religion is then expressionism various that historically, he accomplished unique holy picture to related each other with the historic event.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.192-197
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• 2023

David Salle, born in Norman, Oklahoma in 1952, is the most important and controversial artist of the new-expressionist painting in the United States. His paintings are featured by unique artistic language, and extremely diverse and very ground-breaking expression, which reflect the American society at that time. Besides, he often uses complex image combination with striking colors and forms to attract and touch viewers. In this paper, based on the American new-expressionism, the painting language of David Salle's works was analysed, in which I found that it can be more intuitively and more profoundly feel the development of new-expressionist painting context and David Salle's particularity, and more clearly realize under what the characteristics of the era David Salle created the unique artistic language. The study on David Salle's unique painting language is of important research value and reference significance for our current artistic creation.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.5-23
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• 1998

The main purpose of this study was intended to analyze the image of N대-Expressionism represented in the late of 20th century fashion design. By the late 1960s and the early 1970s. the prevailing notion of modernity, which had pushed the limits of art beyond previous boundaries, had begun to lose its urgency. Critics called the new pluralistic era which the West was entering Post-Modern. Furthermore, the predominance of America and the New York scene is diminishing, and artistic leadership is now international. Post-Modernism dialectcally made denial of Modernism as likely as New Image Painting and Decorative Pattern Painting Art in 1970's and it was availed as a dialectcal means for the pre-diction of new comings that would be appeared at painting art in 1980's. New Image Painting has been called as Neo-Expressionism. The N대-Expressionists selected human's feature because appeared flankly, directly irregular agitation in the visual effect and they believed human's destructive and amputate body was cruelty. So they express it on the surface canvas. Under the these background, the image of Neo-Expressionism was represented in the late of 20th century fashion design such as the upside-down image of human feature, the image as ameditation on German myth and history, culture, the ecletic image is made of use a mixture of material. The properties of composition, line, color, texture, and form, common to all plastic art, are now more readily recognized and historically valued in every work. That is, individuality, humanity, and the human condition have been at the core of most Western art and Fashion design. Especially Fashion design has been one of the principal instruments used to examine our nature and to promote the notion of growth, self-understanding, and change.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.58-67
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• 2015

Expressionism is an art trend that prospered in the early 20th century and was represented in art activities in the diverse fields. As capitalism spread and people underwent wars, people's consciousness became impoverished, and it was created by the artists as a reaction against this, and notable achievements were made in film art and this is called expressive film which still inspires many artists. The modern age is a multicultural age and art is not limited to one area but influences many fields and interchanges and communicates with one another. This study attempts to analyze how an art trend has been passed down and developed and has influenced modern space. The purpose of this study is to derive the keywords of their characteristics through expressive films and to study how expressionism has been transformed and represented by putting them into modern space and to explore new perspectives and directions. First, the theoretical backgrounds of expressionism and expressive films were examined through the analysis of the existing researches, and the types of the characteristics of the space represented in the films were classified. Based on this, the representative expressive films were selected and the keywords of the characteristics of the expressive films were derived. A museum among modern spaces is a space that reflects the art trends and culture of the times and modern spaces are represented best in it. Also, recently the construction of museums has been vitalized and has explosively grown quantitatively and qualitatively, and shows diverse designs to the point that they are called the laboratory of modern architecture, so by analyzing the cases focusing on museums among modern spaces, the conclusion was derived. As a result, it could be seen that the expressive film space is represented diversely in the museums by the architects' inner desire of expression, centering on nonlinear expression, nonobjective form, and representational perception.

• 트랜스-
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• 제15권
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• pp.105-140
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• 2023

본 연구는 독일 표현주의 무용과 그로테스크 예술의 상호관계를 조사하고, 이를 바탕으로 피나 바우쉬(Pina Bausch, 1940-2009)의 <Café Müller(1980)> 작품을 분석한다. 독일 표현주의 무용은 제1차 세계대전으로 인한 사회적 불안정과 경제적 불황의 영향을 받아 표현주의와 그로테스크 미학이 도입되었다. 그로테스크 표현은 인간의 파괴된 모습과 그 근본 원인을 과감하게 표출하여 사회적 모순과 인간 본질의 상실감을 비판적으로 보여주는 역할을 한다. 연구자는 독일 표현주의 무용과 그로테스크 표현의 관련성을 탐구하고, 피나 바우쉬의 <카페 뮐러> 작품을 분석하여 표현주의 무용의 의미와 중요성을 재조명한다. 또한, 작품 내 그로테스크 성향을 시각적 아름다움과 추의 기준에서 벗어나 작품 내용의 본질로 탐구하고, 무용수의 움직임, 청각 요소를 통해 그로테스크 표현성이 전달하는 의미를 재해석한다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.197-207
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• 1992

Expressionism, is as diverse as the artists invo)ved, in a very broad sense two main tendencies may be noted. The first is that of the Action painters, concerned in different ways with the gesture of the brush and the texture of the paint. It included such major artists as Arshile Gorky, Jackson Pollock, Willem De Keening, and Franz Kline. The other group consisted of the Color Field painters, concerned with the statement of an abstract sign or tranquil image in terms of a large, unified color shape or area. Here must be included Mark Rothko, Barnett Newman, Ad Rdinhardt, as well as, to a degree, Adolph Gottlieb, Robert Motherwell, and Clyf(ord Still. In this paper, 1 selected two artists Arshile Gorky and Jackson Pollock independent charac-teristics and studied the influence of their Action painting on the fabrics of modern fashion. However, it should be noted it was never the intention of the critic Harold Rosenberg, in coining this term, to imply that Action painting was a kind of athletic exercise. Nor is it true that the furious and seemingly haphazard scattering of the paint involved a completely uncontrolled, intuitive act. There is no question that, in the paintings of Jackson Pollock, Arshile Gorky and many of the other Abstract Expressionists, the element of intuition or the accidental plays a large and deliberate part; this was indeed one of the principal contributions of Abstract Expressionism which had found its own inspiration in surrealism's 'psychic automaton'. However, nothing that an experienced and accomplished artist does can be completely accidental. Aside from their intrinsic quality, the spun-out skeins of poured pigments contributed other elements that changed the course of modern painting. There was the concept of the all-over painting, the painting seemingly without beginning or end, extending to the very limits of the canvas and implying an extension even beyond. The feeling of absorption or participation is heightened by the ambiguity of the picture space. The colors and lines, although never punctur-ing deep perspective holes in the surface, still create an illusion of continuous movement, a billowing, a surging back and forth, within a limited depth. To study the influence of Abstract Expressionism on the fabric of modern fashion, 1 selected and examined four fashion magazines: Collezioni published in France, Bazaar in Italy, Gap in Japan and Vogue in the U.S.a. froim January 1989 to June 1991. As a result of this review I found that some fabrics used in modern clothing are printed in a dripping, pouring and splashing style without any meaning or form. Slides included in the presentation show that modern fabrics which are printed in such a style were influenced by Abstract Expressionism. The slides also show that these abstract prints are well suited to modern fashion design.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.314-327
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• 2015

20th century, beginning of modern, the style of art and design, separated reasonable and sensitive code. Art form including cubism, constructivism, futurism and different form including fauvism, expressionism, surrealism and abstract expressionism coexist two code in early modern. But the style of design was separated each period with geometric and organic form, reasonable and sensitive code. Replacement timing on two design style was the transition period of the production-oriented step to the sale-oriented step in marketing. In early stage modern it was stable production-oriented step. Geometric style include G. Rietvevld (Red and Blue chair), M. Breuer (Wassily chair), Fanizon and Martinelli (I-Ching) was simple and functional, received the absolute support. An aggressive demand generation and sales promotion for the design change was needed so that excess supply in the market with a stable production. In sale-oriented step for sales promotion in mid modernism, it was accepted transitions to the sensual organic volume with elegant and sleek style include C. Eames (LCW chair), V. Panton (Panton chair) and C. Mollino (Arabesco Tea table).

• 한국조경학회지
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.98-108
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• 2003

The research purpose of this study, together with the study of Frank Stella's work and his expansion of the formative arts field, is to rediscover "Amabel" and to present a fresh perspective in evaluating and assessing environmental art objects. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The study investigated the effect how Frank Stella's work affected American modem art trends. 2. The study helped to re-evaluate Stella's work by examining its expansion into the plastic arts. 3. The study analysed the plastic works of Prank Stella and his effect on plastic arts within the modem art trend of America. In conclusion, Frank Stella played a leading role in today's American art style and had a potent influence on the trends of America's modem U. In recent years, his work has had an impacted on the design of parks and art galleries. America's industrial society is led by the growth of economic power and the development of science and technology. In America's architecture and landscape architecture, such new forms as minimalism functionalism, cubism and abstract expressionism, which have been influenced by art movements, emerged in California and the east coast. Influences of Stella such as these are the remedy for a vested stubborn concept of architecture and landscape architecture by introducing a sense of pictorial space in these fields. In landscape architecture, the introduction of art trends appears in several ways. Mainly the trend of Minimalist Art, influenced by Modernism, can be seen in much Landscape Architecture. Frank Stella contributed to the development of such minimalist art.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제52권2호
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• pp.172-195
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• 2019

고암 이응노(1904~1989)의 회화 전개에서 1960년대의 파리 시절은 미술가로서 가장 전위적인 방식으로 매체의 실험 및 혁신을 이룬 시기로 평가받는다. 그리고 파리로 건너가기 직전에 개최된 이응노의 ${\ll}$도불${\gg}$전(1958. 3)은 이응노가 앵포르멜 미술을 처음 수용할 때의 회화 양상을 확인할 수 있다는 점에서 주목받아왔다. 이를 주목한 이응노 관련 연구는 1958년의 작품들을 앵포르멜과 추상표현주의의 영향으로 해석하는 관점과 이응노가 문인화로 처음 화업을 시작했다는 점에 초점을 맞추어 문인화의 사의(寫意) 정신의 발현으로 보는 관점으로 크게 구분할 수 있다. 본고는 앵포르멜과 추상표현주의를 통칭할 수 있는 '추상회화'에 대한 이응노의 인식을 확인하는 것을 목표로 하였다. 이를 해결하기 위해서는 당시 이응노의 회화론을 되짚어보는 것이 필요하기에 이응노가 회화를 처음 학습했던 해강 김규진 문하와 일본 유학 시절의 회화론을 먼저 살펴보았다. 이응노는 매너리즘에 빠진 문인화풍에서 벗어나기 위해 자연을 깊이 관조하는 것을 회화 제작의 첫 번째 원칙으로 삼았다. 그의 이러한 사생론은 1950년대까지 지속되었다. 그리고 그는 '추상(抽象)'을 서양 미술사조의 '추상회화'라는 고유 개념이 아니라 일본 유학 시절 이후 강화된 사생론에 따라 '(자연에서) 형상을 추출하다'라는 사전적 의미로 이해했을 가능성이 크다. 이응노 본인도 추상회화의 근간에는 자연의 형태가 있다고 밝힌 바가 있다. 즉 추상적인 회화와 '추상회화'는 다른 개념이기에 이를 구분하여 당시 이응노의 회화를 분석할 필요가 있다. 마지막으로 이응노의 1950년대 추상회화를 문인화의 사의(寫意) 정신이 발현된 것으로 해석하는 관점에 의문을 제기하였다. 전통 문인화론을 현대의 이응노에게 직접 연결하는 것은 오히려 이응노 회화의 개성을 가리게 하고 전통서화와 현대회화의 구분을 모호하게 만들 수 있다. 또한 이응노는 회화 제작에서 사의를 강조하긴 했지만 이는 대명제로서의 언사(言辭)였을 가능성이 높다. 왜냐하면 정작 1950년대에 제작한 작품들은 <자화상>(1956)처럼 이응노가 스스로 '북화(북종화)'라고 규정했던 회화 양식이 주를 이루기 때문이다. 이러한 양상은 문인화의 대명제로서의 '사의'와 '사의적 화법'을 구분해서 바라볼 필요가 있다는 점의 근거가 된다. 따라서 당시 그의 회화는 사의의 발현, 전통 문인화의 계승이라는 측면으로 보기보다 사의적 화법을 구사한 이응노식 추상회화라는 관점에서 새로운 해석을 필요로 한다.