• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.54-61
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• 1999

The purpose of this research was first to analyse and compare the types of microbes inherent among the unwashed and washed Kupori textiles, and second to investigate whether there is a difference between unwashed and washed Kupori textiles on the susceptibility of contamination by microorganism when exposed to the same microbial environment. Microbial identification procedure and the Shake Flask Test for investigating the effect of exposure to microbial environment were carried out separately. The result of microbial identification procedure indicated that a variety of bacteria and fungi were inherent in both unwashed and washed textiles and that the population of contaminated microorganism became more diverse after washing. The result of Shake Flask Test indicated that given the same exposure condition, the unwashed textiles tend to be more susceptible to bacterial contamination than the washed textiles. The results of the present study supported the current conservation procedures adopted in Korean museums which include washing and humigation procedures before long-term storage or display of exhumed textiles.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.772-780
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• 1998

The purpose of this research was to investigate the fiber content of and the characteristics of non-fibrous matters within the textiles exhumed from Keumreung-Ri, Pajoo of Kyunggi-do. Various microscopic methods' and the IR spectroscopy were used for the identification of fibers. The KS K 0251 Test Method as well as the IR spectroscopy and the SEM were used for the analysis of econ-fibrous matters. Fiber identification showed that each of the Pajoo samples were composed either of silk, cotton, or ramie. The results of the analysis of non-fibrous matters were as follows. The amount of water-extracted compound exceeded that of chloroform-extracted compound in both Pajoo 2 and Pajoo 5 samples. In Pajoo 5 sample which have already been dry cleaned using the mixed solution of n-hexane and n-dacane, the amount of chloroform extracted compound was 0% of the total extracted matter. The enzyme and HCI disintegration steps further removed the soils those were nonsoluble in water or chloroform. The most extraction was achieved at the HCI extraction stage.

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2001년도 International Costume Culture Conference
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• pp.45-45
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• 2001

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.400-406
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate characteristics of arrangement methods and weaving types of fabrics during 16-17 century. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing in Chosun Dynesty. Seeing the waving types of fabrics of flower patterned fabrics of total 108 items, satin damask(Dahn) was 71items, took the majority. And the next order was twill(Neung) and plain(Ju). It means Dahn was the most popular fabric among the upper classes. It was regarded as one of the noble textiles, because of its luxurious appearance and pleasant touch. Flower patterned plain fabric(Munju) was found only 9items, even though the plain fabric was the most common used type. Assumed for the reason, Chosun government had restrict to extravagance of the people. In terms of the arrangement of flower pattern, it can be classified into three methods. The most common arrangement method was Arabesque type, followed by open order shaped type and scattering shaped type. In the repetition of pattern, there were brick-shaped pattern and half drop pattern which were spread flower pattern all over the surface of fabric.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.902-912
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• 2003

The purpose of this research was two-folds; first, to investigate the type of soil contaminated in the Hunsang excavated from the Milchang-gun burial of Mapo for the purpose of proposing the adequate washing method, second, to utilize the chemical degradation result obtained from the previous research to identify the natural dye source used in the Hunsang textile. The application of KS K0251 test showed that the soil was more oleophilic than hydrophilic thus indicating that wet cleaning was more adequate that dry cleaning for the removal of Hunsang soil. The GC-MS result of the Hunsang extraction showed dimethyl phthalate and 2,4-di-tert-butylphenol as its degradation product and these coincided with the degradation products from the alizarin standard data of previous research. The comparison of the two suggested that it is likely that Hunsang was dyed with madder which has alizarin as its major chromophore.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.73-80
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• 2008

Since costume comprises organic substances, it hardly sustain to remain long, compared with other historic relics, and it requires some professionalism to preserve and maintain costume remains. Anyway, the fact that there is no professional costume curator working for museums in Korea, except for a few museums, suggests that importance of costume remains as cultural assets has yet to be fully recognized. In such circumstances, this study was aimed at analyzing the problems of costume remains collected at university museums in Seoul and thereupon, providing for some basic data conducive to the researches into costume remains to promote a better understanding and recognition of our own unique costume culture.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.8-15
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• 1996

Three pieces of cotton fabrics used for this study were exhumed in the Mt.Moo Deung near Kwang Ju in 1965. The fabrics were remains of Jang Heung Lim Si-the nephew's wife of General Kim Deok Ryeong. It was reported that Jang Heung Lim Si died in 1615. The cotton fabrics were classified into three, A, B and C, according to their color. The fabric A was inherent color of cotton, the fabric B was that of light brown and the fabric C was that of dark brown. The physical and chemical characteristics of the cotton fabrics were examined. In the meantime the construction of cotton fabrics and traditional dyeing of Yi dynasty were studied through various records. The results were as follows: 1. According to electromicroscopic examination, the lumen in the cotton fiber had not been developed enough, therefore the quality of cotton at that time was supposed to be not so excellent. 2. The results of chemical analysis indicated that: (1) While the copper number of the cotton fabric A was similar to that of bleached cotton, that of the fabric C was extremely high. (2) The amount of methylene blue absorption was much more than that of normal cotton. (3) The content of cellulose was less than that of normal cotton. (4) The degree of polymerization was less than that of normal cotton. From the results mentioned above, it was concluded that the cotton fabrics were oxidized slowly in the closed lime coffin for a long period of time. From this process of oxidization and deterioration, the degree of polymerization was decreased through depolymerization, and carboxyl groups were produced by the oxidization at reducing end groups. 3. It was confirmed that the cotton fabric C was dyed by the juice of immature persimmon. Thus, it was inferred that the large amount of copper number of cotton fabric C was derived from phenolic OH groups of tannins having high reducing properties in persimmon.

• 복식
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• 제49권
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• pp.49-63
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• 1999

This research utilized the Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy(EDS) and the Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry in the analysis of chemical elements present among the textiles exhumed from Kupori Hwasung-kun Kyunggi-do. The two research objectives were: first to examine the elements present and their percent presence in Kupori samples: second to investigate whether the elements are part of mordant substances which could have been used when dyeing the KUpori textiles in the past. To meet such research purposes standard silk fabric was dyed with Sophorajaponica using alum and iron mordants. For alum mordant unpurified general alum and potassium aluminum sulfate(AlK(SO4)2). iron sulfate(FeSO4·7H2O) were used, From the results of EDS and ICP-Mass analysis the following conclusions were drawn. 1 According to the EDS analysis 9 elements Ca, S, Al, Si, K, Fe, P, Mg and Na were detected. 2. ICP-Mass result of the mordant chemicas showed high amount of A, Al and k present in alum mordants and S and Fe present in iron mordants. 3. Comparison of the ICP-Mass results of the mordant chemicals and those of the standard dyed samples suggested that the amount presence of Al and Fe is a strong indication of the usage of alum and iron mordants respecticely in an unknown dyed textile. 4, In the washed Kupori textiles Fe showed a relatively higher rate of presence in the samples Therefore it can be conjectured that those Kupori textiles were dyed with iron mordant based on the result of the above number 3. 5. It is probable that the other elements detected from the Kupori samples were incorporated into the textiles as part of the soil debris produced from the degradation of the dead within the coffin or the earth debris. They can also be part of the inorganic compounds inherent in the silk textiles themselves before dyed. 6. Among the elements it is likely that Ca which showed a high degree of presence among the unwashed samples was part of the inorganic compound inferent in the silk textiles.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권6호
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• pp.827-836
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• 2013

Indigotin, indirubin, berberine, palmatine, alizarin, and purpurin are major pigments of indigo plant, Phellodendron bark, and madder. The six pigments were examined using the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument for the purpose of the simultaneous detection of the pigments in a single sample run. The HPLC-DAD-MS method examined the individual pigment solutions in DMSO, a solution containing 6 pigments, and the DMSO extract of the silk dyed with a dye solution of 5 pigments excluding indirubin. The retention times of the HPLC chromatograms, ${\lambda}_{max}$ of the uv-vis absorption bands in the DAD analyses, and the molecular ions detected for the compound peaks in the MSD analyses were consistent throughout the analyses of individual pigment solutions, mixed pigment solutions, and dye extracted from silk dyeing. The developed instrumental method of the simultaneous detection of six pigments can identify dye in an exhumed textile if the textile is dyed using any one (or multiple) pigments of indigo, Phellodendron bark, or madder plant.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권12호
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• pp.1608-1618
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• 2005

본 연구는 꼭두서니와 그 표준 색소인 알리자린으로 염색한 직물에 조건적 퇴화를 유도하고, 가스 크로마토그라피 질량분석기(GC-MS)를 이용해 퇴화물을 분석하여 이를 선행연구에서 밝혀진 표준 알리자린 색소의 퇴화물과 비교함으로써 대조구로서의 꼭두서니 염료의 정보를 완성하는데 그 목적을 둔다. 아울러 퇴화 전후 염직물의 색차를 측정하여 조건퇴화에 따른 색의 변화를 조사하였다. 퇴화조건은 상온 (RT), 저온$(7^{\circ}C)$ (LT), 고온$(100^{\circ}C)$(OV)의 세 종류의 온도 조건과 염료 폐수처리 용도로 활용되고 있는 $H_2O_2/UV$법 (PER)을 사용하였다. 퇴화시간은 6시간, 24시간, 48시간, 1주, 2주, 4주 각각을 측정하였다. 꼭두서니와 알리자린 염직물 모두 퇴화 전후의 시료에서 alizarin(10.1분)이 검출되었다. 꼭두서니와 알리자린 염직물 모두 퇴화 후 benzoic acid(4.7분), 2,4-di-tert-butylphenol(6.8분), phthalic anhydride(5.8분)가 검출되었다. 꼭두서니와 알리자린 염직물 모두 퇴화 후 붉은색과 노란색이 감소하였다. 꼭두서니 염직물보다 알리자린 염직물의 경우 퇴화 전후의 색차가 더 심하였다. 그러나 가장 퇴화조건이 강한 PER퇴화조건 하에서는 꼭두서니 염직물의 색차가 1주 경과 후에도 매우 심하게 나는 것을 볼 수 있었다. 본 연구의 결과꼭두서니와 그 표준 색소로 염색한 직물이 퇴화할 경우에도 선행연구에서 밝혀진 알리자린의 퇴화물인 benzoic acid, 2,4-di-tert-butylphenol, phthalic anhydride가 검출됨을 확인하였다. 따라서 이들 화합물은 갈변되어 고유의 색을 알 수 없는 출토복식의 염료를 판정할 때 꼭두서니 염료의 사용여부를 확인할 수 있는 대조구 화합물로 사용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다. 퇴화 전후의 색차에 대한 측정결과는 퇴화에 따른 염료의 색 변화에 대한 결과이다 출토복식의 갈변현상은 염료의 변색과 더불어 토양 유기물에 의한 착색도 기인하므로, 출토복식의 색상 변화를 실질적으로 조사하기 위해서는 본 연구의 결과와 함께 토양유기물에 의한 착색에 대한 연구가 병행되어야 할 것으로 본다