• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.956-966
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• 2003

The purpose of study is to find out a suitable cleaning method for excavated textiles of Jeon-ui Lee(1570∼1647). The textiles were excavated from her tomb in 1997, and her descendents put them in a box without any treatment and kept them in the warehouse since then. We used two kinds of silk as samples, non-dyed and dyed textile. The experiment was performed by 8 kinds of wet cleaning and dry cleaning methods, an ultrasonic cleaner was used in the wet cleaning, decane and perchloroethylene were used as solvents in the dry cleaning. The use of the ultrasonic cleaner in the wet cleaning method did not show any damage to the fibers of the textiles and it not only cleaned well but also was safe for the fugitive dyes. It resulted in more effective cleaning when the detergent was used together. Therefore, it is effective to use the ultrasonic cleaning on the delicate historical textiles and helpful to the operator's safety and environment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.7
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• pp.1035-1043
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• 2000

This paper studied the excavated costumes of the Go's of Jang Taek that had been found in Kwangju metropolitan city in 1986. The excavated costumes mainly show Po(포) including Chopni(첩리), Dapho(답호), Danryung(단령), Jikryung (직령). In addition, there are some kinds of trousers, hat, korean socks. The meanings of excavated costumes of the Go's of Jang Taek are the followings: 1. They offer the important research materials to studying of general dress. 2. They offer actual proof materials of 15-16 century in opposition to depending on documentary records. 3. They offer the useful informations on the form, textile, dyeing because of good condition. 4. They offer the variety of Po that many persons weared at that times. 5. They offer the practical and rational construction by folding pleats and needlework. 6. They did not quilted padded clothes in comparison with other dress at that times. 7. They offer the important materials on the trousers. In the near future, we will study excavated costumes on dyeing, textile structure, trousers formation and so on.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.197-205
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• 2001

It is possible to examine the costume of Chosun era that tombs excavated in chonnam area, have contained various kinds of clothes. There are six tombs in which costumes have been excavated in Chonnam provinces. One(Go un) is tomb of the early years of Chosun Dynasty and the other tombs is those of the middle years of Chosun Dynasty(16∼17 century). There were many kinds of Po which was called Jickryung, Danryung, Chullik, Dappo, Jangui, So-changui etc, and contained chechori, skirts, under-trousers in tombs. But there are not see Kuui, Dopo that excavated in other area. Chullik showed the features of winkle, sleeves and the ratio of length. Dappo was only to be seen in a Go uns grave. Mens chechori collar(kit) was called Mokpankit in all, and womans chechori collar was called Kalkit or Tangkokit. The length of chechori was different according to the times. Most trousers are types of underwear and also there are Sapok tousers, open trousers. The characterstics of excavated costumes are not regional feature but trend of the times. The costumes excavated in Chonnam area are similiar to those excavated in other area at the same times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.338-347
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• 2006

Due to the complex environment in the ground, most of excavated costumes undergo deterioration and color change. To reduce the extent and intensity of the staining and to recover the original color or gray fabrics of excavated costumes, bleaching would be required. Excavated historical costumes are very delicate in nature, therefore, special care is needed in bleaching process. Several bleaching agents were selected and applied to the control cotton fabric and pre-deteriorated cotton fabrics to examine the change of color and physical properties after bleaching. A dual bleaching using hydrogen peroxide and sodiumborohydride showed the superior bleaching effect to the other bleaching agents. The strength of pre-deteriorated fabrics slightly increased after dual bleaching. The six historical costumes which belonged to General Duk-Ryung Kim's nephew's wife were dual bleached. They became remarkably cleaned and brightened. The treatments improved the appearance of costumes. By microscopic investigation, it is found that costumes did not show the damage after treatment. In conclusion, it is possible to bleach historical textiles without damage using appropriate bleaching agents like hydrogen peroxide and sodiumborohydride.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.61-70
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• 1994

the purpose of study is to grasp the actual state of the textiles of Kojosun, Booyeo and Kogooryeo, by examining and studying about the excavated article of the textile of the Booyeo Age which was being gamered in the Research Institute of Study of antiquities of Civilization of gilimsung without being analyzed and examined after being excavated at September in 1990 and 1993, the textile of Kojosun Age wich was excavated and examined at East and North Gilimsung in China and the textile excavated and examined at the Kogooryeo grave at jiban China. 1. The kinds of textiles of Booye Age are warp kum plin weave silk plain weave bang gong Sa, and drawn and dyed textile, It is deemed that the real state of keum, Jeung and Hwi in the old literature of Sam guk Ji was grasped. 2. It emerges that more detailed wool than the wool fabric of China area of the same age was manufactured as the textile of Kojosun Age. hemp cloth corresponds to 12 Seung, in converting into fabric width of 50cm. 3. Keum was examined and reported as the textile of Kogooryeo Age and the real state of Woonkeum of Kogooryeo Age was grasped through "Wang ja moon keum" of Keumjang of mural of South and North I room of the grave that the same keum was excavated. The real state of dyed textile of hemp was grasped as the red hemp cloth was examined. Moreover the real state of development of advanced technique to weave with machine appeared by the grasp of inclination of loom with reed of Kogooryeo.Kogooryeo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.23-31
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• 2003

The Purpose of this study was to isolate and identify fungi found in excavated clothes dating on the 16th century. As a result of microscoping with LPCB staining, seven isolated strains were classified-Acremonium strictum, Acremonium kiliense, Fonsecaea sp., Candida sp., Trichoderma sp., Cladosporium spp., Penicillium spp.. In the process of isolation and identification of fungi by the sort of textile, more fungi were found in cotton, cotton batt and silk than in ramie and hemp, suggesting that hemp has antibacterial characteristics due to the presence of lignin. In the Comparison washed samples with unwashed ones, there were more kinds of fungi in washed samples. In the cellulase activity test, Acremonium kiliense had the highest level cellulase activity, suggesting that Acremonium killiense has an important Influence on damage of textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.1390-1400
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to categorize the type of fabrics and to analyze weaving method on the silk fabrics from ewongun's Tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follow. 1) Among the 26pieces of excavated clothes,98% of them were made of silk fabric and among them 84% used high-quality non-patterned silk I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person who had a dignified yet humble tagte of higher society. 2) The weaving methods of textiles are plain weave, twil1 weave, satin weave. Plain weave includes spun silk tabby, fine filament silk tabby, raw silk tabby, thine silk tabby, damask on tabby, twill weave includes twill damask with different directions, satin weave includes non-patterned satin damask,5-end satin damask(4/1 warp faces ground, l/4 wok faced pattern). As the result of literature survey, I settled the names of textiles as follows; tabby was called Myunju, Saeju, Saengcho, and Sookcho according to the kind and density of silk threads used; Damask on tabby was ca]led Hwamunju) Twill damask was called Hwmunnung Satin damask was ca]led Hwamundan if they bear patterns by themselves or Mumundan if they don't have any patterns on them.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.119-129
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• 2012

Excavated textiles provide very important research data on the costume culture of the Joseon dynasty. In particular, dyed textiles are indispensable for textile conservation research and for restoration of remains as well as for general costume culture research. Unfortunately, a prolonged burial environment causes the colors to change and gradually fade after excavation. Therefore, it is very difficult to identify the original color. In this study, natural dyed samples of red, yellow, purple and blue were prepared and analyzed using HPLC-PDA. Dyes of colorants extracted from excavated textile remains were analyzed by HPLC. In addition, mordants were analyzed using (SEM-EDX) in order to estimate the original color. The 16~17th Century's three samples were analyzed, sample 1, and 2 from Eunjin Song's Song Mun-Chang excavated at the Songchon-dong in Daejeon, and sample 3 from Yeosan Song's Song, Hee-Jong excavated at the Mokdal-dong in Daejeon. From the HPLC results, alizarin, purpurin, and indigo were detected on sample 1, alizarin and purpurin on sample 2, ellagic acid and indigo on sample 3. Therefore they were dyed with madder and indigo (sample 1), madder (sample2), pomagranted and indigo (sample 3). Al mordant was identified on three samples.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.198-210
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.