• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.135-144
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• 2007

This study is about the three pieces of jackets with a symmetric collar that was used to fill in the empty spaces in coffin excavated in 2004, from Seok-nam-dong, Nam-gu, Incheon. The similarities of these three jackets are that the collars are symmetric, there are seops(the outer bodies to overlap the front sides of a jacket) with pleats, and openings on the side seam. The No.2, and No.6 seem to be jegori to wear over others, and the fabrics used for No.2 is damask with cloud pattern, and damask with lotus flower pattern. For the No.4, satin was used and there is peacock pattern weaved on satin using golden thread. No.41 is unlined clothes made with Suk-cho, and the distinctive feature about this clothes is that the collar, and the neckline are very narrow. The three jackets are similar with the recently reported clothes of Kim clan of Gang-leung (deducted to be buried in 1520), the collection of Seok Joo-sun Memorial Museum. Through this report, it provides information about some aspects of upper class women's clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.9
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• pp.129-141
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• 2008

Jikgeum(woven with supplementary golden wefts) hyungbae(rank badge) of danryung(official uniform) excavated from Im Backryung'tomb($1498{\sim}1546$) of the Joseon dynasty($1392{\sim}1910$) at Goyang, Gyunggi-Do in 2007, was in a critical condition because of serious collapse of substrate in metal thread. For conservation of hyungbae, metal thread was examined by different scientific methods(Light Microscope, Scanning Electron Microscope and Energy Dispersive X-Rray Spectrometry(SEM-EDS), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy(FT-IR)). Analytical data showed that metal thread was gilt membrane strip composed of gold leaves and proteinaceous substrate which was probably parchment. To protect collapse of substrate, 1% solution of Paraloid B-72 was infilterated into substrate for consolidation of substrate and it was adhered to warp of fabric in hyungbae, before wet cleaning. After wet cleaning, the most of the gold leaves were restored, which was confirmed by both the examination with the naked eye and the microscopic examination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.81-95
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to categorize the typs of fabrics and to analyze weaving method and pattern design on the silk fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follows. 1) Among the 32 pieces of excavated clothes, 90% of them were made of silk fabric and 65% used patterned silk. I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person of higher society who could afford the best clothes of the time. 2) The weaving methods of silk include tabby, twill damask with different direction (2/1 warp faced ground, 1/3$\cdot$1/4 weft faced pathern), self-patterned satin damask (4/1 warp faces ground, 1/4 weft faced pattern), and brocaded satin damask. 3) The arrangement of the motifs and the kinds of patterns on these silk fabric can be divided into two categories: first group is allover arrangement of peony or lotus and second group is the scattered arrangement of omen of luck. 4) Two pieces of fabric was stamped and the letters of the stamp make me to think about the possibility that the fabrics are from China. But to make this paint clear more relics of this kind should be excavated so that further research can be done.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.32-43
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• 2006

Excavated fabrics from Papyeung-yun's tomb totals at 208 in their numbers. They comprised 118 pieces of silk tabby(紬), 16 pieces of thin silk tabby, 8 pieces of thin filament silk tabby (絹), 43 pieces of satin damask(段), 8 pieces of compound satin(金線), 1 piece of twill(綾), 1 piece of complex gauze(羅), l piece of simple gauze(紗), 4 pieces of cotton(綿布), 4 pieces of hemp(麻布) and 3 pieces of ramie(苧布). As shown in the preceding list, $95\%$ of all the items are weaved from silk. To list a few characteristics of excavated fabrics from Papyoung-Yun's lineage, there are A vivid gold-colored compound satin, a uniquely patterned satin damask, various silk tabbies, and 4-end complex gauze of Neoul that is women's head cover. To note, names of the fabrics used in this article are based on the information from the literatures and are as following silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, filament silk tabby(絹), satin damask(段), compound satin(金線), complex gauze(羅), simple gauze(紗), cotton(綿布), twill(綾), hemp(麻布)and ramie(苧布).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.61-77
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• 2016

This study is to understand the meaning, the location, and the construction of Hyeonhun (玄纁) through the records and relics of the Chosun Dynasty. Hyeonhun means farewell gifts for the dead. Hyeonhun was very personal and was considered to be essential ritual supplies. it was newly made for not only first funeral(初葬), but also the second funeral(改葬), was individually made as well as in the couple funeral(夫婦合葬). the Hyeonhun ritual was performed while dressed in a simabok(緦麻服). The ritual started with washing of the hands(盥手) and deep bowing(再拜) twice. The Hyeonhun was placed on the lid of the inner coffin among the 3 coffins in Chosun tomb's way. The Hyeon was placed on the right side and the Hun on the left side of the lid.(玄右纁左). Hyeonhun are comprised of one, two, five of ten pieces. Most of the excavated Hyeonhun were two pieces : Hyeonhunsokbaek(玄纁束帛) consist of ten pieces, of which six were Hyeons and four were Huns. The records indicated that the materials used to make Hyeonhun was silk, but the excavated relics satin and twill, single gauze in the excavated relics advanced than the records.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.109-122
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• 2002

This study is to understand cotton Tyeollik construction of the middle Chosun Period through the reconstruction of tyeoilik which was excavated from lady kim's tomb (from sooncheon). The form of excavated Tyeollik classified into two types by the location of waistline. The structure of excavated tyeollik classified into three types by the construction(one-layer, two-layer, cotton/quilt) The form type change according to the period. The change of the form type has the close relation structure type in the tyeollik. Cotton-tyeollik belongs to the form of the front time. The construction of cotton tyeollik is similar with the one-layer Tyeollik Exception the construction of git(collar) and the size and direction of the fold. The surface pattern is composed of two-pieces but the liner is one-piece in the Git(collar). and In The size of fold surface is o.2-o.3cm, and liner is 0.5-0.8cm. The direction of fold in the liner is the contrast with the surface.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.43-58
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• 2000

This study is an analysis on the costumes of two statuettes of standing women made with three colored cermai excavated from Parhae tomb in Shiguo(석국), Chilin province(길림성), China. These statuettes wear similar clothing ; A narrow sleeved under-blouse with a decollette neckline and a long skirt tied above the bosom. But their hairstyles are quite different ; one has a bun top of the head which tipped slightly forward. the other has two buns with two loops near ears. Their shoes are a little different: in the former the top of the shoes are a little crooked, but in the latter they are high-fronted and more crooked. These two statueettes are valueable and unique source which demonstrates the female costumes of Parhae dynasty, and at the same time which accounts for the acceptance and assimilation of costumes of Tang dynasty. Base upon the analysis on their costumes, hairstyles , and their expressions of the body shape, two statuettes seem to be made after the early 8th century.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.219-231
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information necessary for the cleaning of excavated costumes. For the purpose, these researchers reviewed previous records of the actual cleaning of excavated costumes and then implemented and documented the processes of cleaning the Yeosan Song's costumes excavated at Mokdal-dong, Daejeon, which could date back to the early and mid periods of Choseon Dynasty. The excavated clothes of the family provide good examples for comparing men's costume of the 15th century with men's and women's of the mid and late 16th century. The total quantity of excavated remains were 184 and textiles were cotton, silk, hemp, ramie, and union cloth. The clothing remains were processed through wet or dry cleaning in accordance with their fabric condition and the extent to which they were worn or polluted. In detail, the excavated costumes of the Yeosan Song family were cleaned in two stages. For wet cleaning, both anionic(LAS) and nonionic(Triton X-100) surfactants were respectively used as cleaning agents and for dry cleaning, a mixture of n-hexane and n-decane(the ratio of 4 to 6) and petrolic dry cleaning solvent were used. After first cleaning, some cotton, ramie and hemp which had still the stains were processed bleaching and silk which were good condition was processed dry cleaning with the organic solvent again.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.72-88
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• 2011

This study is about the costume relics that were excavated from M10 of the 6th site, M13 and M14 of the 8th site among all the Runghai(龍海) ancient tomb sites that were known as the royal family's tombs of Balhae, which were built from the late 8th century to the early 9th century. These costume relics were also introduced in the academic journal of Chinese archaeology(考古) 6 in 2009. The summary of the results that focused on finding features of the costume relics and its meaning were as follows: 1. Male and female statues, both of which were excavated from the Runghai ancient tomb sites, had the shape and composition of the government official's costumes such as the Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Gwadae. The female's hairstyle and accessories were quite similar to other costume relics of Balhae. In particular, the male statues wearing the Danryeong and Bokdu were considered as the normal figures of government officials of Balhaeafter the mid 8th century. 2. The female statue wearing the male attire is considered as a maid, and we can confirm that women dressing up like a man was a popular trend in Tang(唐), and this trend was introduced to Balhae. 3. The back flap(垂脚) of Bokdu that the male statue is wearing in M10 of the 6th site, has a shape that has not been found in the ancient relics of both Balhae and Tang. Therefore, it is considered as a unique shape of Bokdu of Balhae. However, it needs to be observed more and discussed in the future. 4. In regards to the Gwadae, the outside of the Gwadae is decorated with jade and has an embossed carving that is gold inside. The Gwadae of the Runghaisites has a unique design and it is distinguished from other ancient relics. 5. The gold trefoil crown and the leather conical hat that were found in M14 of the 8th site can be seen as the basic composition of official's hats in ancient Korea. Also, the motif of the gold trefoil is closely related to Anthemion that is often seen in the relics of the Three Kingdom period. Thus, we can assume according to this important finding that the style of ancient Korea official's hats came from either the king or a royal family of Balhae after the mid 8th century.