• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.98-112
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• 2010

This study is on the 18th-century man's clothing excavated from Mr. Kim(1683-1766)'s tomb in Cheongju, Chungbuk in 2003. There are more than 100 pieces of excavated costumes from the tomb of Won-taek Kim. The excavated costumes have the value of genuine materials. Among them, 36 garments in good condition were investigated. As a result, there are several kinds of the excavated coats with different sizes, depending on the type of coats-Simui(深衣), Danryeong(團領), Sagyusam(四揆衫), Daechang, jungchimak(中赤莫), and Sochangui. These different-size coats reveal the degree of ritual; the length of the ritual costume is longer than that of the daily one. We can see two kinds (large and small) of coats, jackets, and pants. The large-size clothing is for the dead, the small size one as daily clothing was used for filling the empty space of the coffin. Among the excavated clothing from Mr. Kim's tomb, clothing for the dead(shroud) is bigger than man's daily costume. Concerning the form, color, and materials of the costumes, clothing for the dead is similar to daily clothing, while there is the difference in their size. The oversized costumes of coats, jackets, and pants are also different in size, matching the structure of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.73-87
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• 2003

The custom and shroud for funeral rites of the early 17th Century based on the excavated costume from the grave of Mrs. Jung (1565 - 1614) are studied in this paper. The grave was located in the Pohang, Kyungbuk Province and was excavated in, April 1999. The remains consist of one set of epitaphs, 33 pieces of costume, 7 pieces of cloths, and 14 pieces of funeral accessaries. From these remains, this study newly reveals : 1) a specific funeral custom for the upper class from the fact that her husband, Ja-Hun Ki, was in the position of Prime Minister for the Chosun government when she died, 2) a fact that women also wore a formal dress with round-shaped collar (Dalryoung) and a concubine could use rectangular tablets ((Hyungbae) with peacock pattern according to her husband's rank, 3) a whole set of shroud used for women in the early 17th Century, and 4) specific construction methods for individual shroud.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.163-176
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• 2003

Waist lined Coat with Pleats excavated from Byun-su(1447-1524) Tomb in Yangpyeong were very similar in size to the costume of Haeina Temple which is the oldest YosunChollik up to now YosunChollik was popularly worn in the Yuan Dynasty of China(원) and it is presumed to be flown into Korea in that period. In China, the coat with a straight collar was called ByeonseonOh , and one with a round collar was called ByeonseonOhja in the Yuan Dynasty. The excavated relics of Haeinsa Temple are almost same as ByeonseonOh. In the Myoung Dynasty(명), the coat with a straight collar was called YoseonOhja, and one with a round collar was called Round collar YoseonOhja . The Waist lined Coat with Pleats excavated in the Byunsu Tomb is same as YoseonOhja Attendants who is low in position and doctors used to wear the coat, which was spread to diverse classes by degrees. Later, even emperors and high ranking officials used to wear it as military uniforms. It was made of silk and summer cloth. As mentioned above, 1 examined its history carefully through Chinese documents and photographic materials on relics. In addition, with the authentic records of Korea and the excavated relics of the Byun-su Tomb, 1 analyzed its components. However, the analysis was very restricted because the relics to be compared with were few.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.25-41
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• 2001

This Paper reveals the costume culture of early 17th century from the study of private letters found in the tomb of Mrs. JinJoo Ha(\ulcorner - after 1652) excavated in 1989. The tomb was located at KooJi-myon, DalSung-kun, Kyung-Poong Province. Joo Kwak(1569-1617), Mrs. Ha s husband, didn t have a title from the government, but he was a clan in HyunPoong area who had enough land and servants. However, he didn't live togther with mrs. Ha, his second wife, he had to travel between SoRye and NonKong where his wife resided. The 40 or so private letters that contains valuable information that can help us to understand and reconstruct the costume culture of early 17th century in HyunPoong area. We believe that these materials contain somewhat general information that reveals costume of KyungSangDo area even though the materials are from a specific family. By accumulating information from real material like these letters, we also believe that it will give us a better understanding on the costume culture in 17th century, Choson dynasty. Furthermore, it will certainly help us to reconstruct a more realistic lifestyle of the time.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.161-170
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to find the reasonable plan for the restoration method through the practical repair of excavated costume. The minimal repair only without adding the physical force as far as possible after investigating the state of excavated costume has been progressed in case of excavated costume since it is already degraded and weak due to the characteristics of organic matter at the moment when it is excavated. Moreover, it has been restored as the following course; The restoration has been applied according to the state of excavated costume with the maximum stability by classifying items capable of being restored considering the fabric state of excavated costume. The drawn thread from the weak in strength and the refined thread of the Juasa(simple gauze) or the light degraded silk thread has been used in case of thread for restoration. The cotton fabrics has been used in the fabric of cellulose system, the Juasa or the silk has been used in the silk depending on the kind of fabric in connection with the support fabric, some parts have been dyed with Alnus firma fruit and the persimmon, has been repaired by using the dyed fabric with the clove for the purpose of mothproof-antibacterial treatment. The method to repair has been carried out by classifying according to the state of damage and the way of formation of costume. The needlework method suitable for the part and state of damage by using the basting, the broad-stitching, backstitch, the blind stitch and the hemming stitch in connection with the needlework method for restoration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.177-186
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• 2003

This study is based on the observation of clothes excavated from of YeoHung Min( 1586∼1656)'s grave, which enable to understand of woman's funeral clothes among upper class in mid 17C. Lady Min buried with her husband Jung (Clan of Dong Rae)'s grave where located in KwanAk gu, Seoul was move out another place in 1989. During excavation of the grave, 31 pieces form 5 different type of clothes and total 18 pieces form 8 different from Lady Min (Clan of YeoHung). Remarkable finding from the excavated clothes is the Nuwooli(veil) which is known to be discovered first time in Korea, and a piece of tooth, which is related with funeral custom of those day, and cotton seeds are found from chima(skirt) and Jogori(jacket). Jangot(coat) has been used for the use of over garment assuming the changes of Jogori form during mid of Josun dynasty. It is also remarkable that padded and quilted clothing is still being commonly used until mid-l7C.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.135-151
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• 2009

This study aims to estimate the chronical year of 'Euiin'-Park's clothes excavated costumes from the tomb of 'Lady Euiim-Park's which has been stocked in Gyeonggi Provincial Museum. The methods of this study is, observed structure and style of clothes and characterize and compared with other similar clothes excavated from other tombs. The result showed Park's clothes was estimated to be from the mid to late 16th century. The elements that enable us to estimate the period are first of all the wearing of women's Dan-ryung, and the shape of the gore and sleeve. Second the shape of Jegory's collar, and Gyron-ma-gi. Third the form of layered skirt and Somaja[hat]. Fourth tiger hyung-bae which embroidered patches on the breast and back of official uniforms. Last, the style and types of Jinju-Ryu's who's the spouse clothes. It will be useful to estimate the chronical year of clothes excavated from unidentified tombs when refer this styles of clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.71-85
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• 2003

The costume of the 17th Century based on the excavated costume from the graves of Tong-Rae Jwg Clan are studied in this paper. The remaining were used for filling up the coffin consists of 1 piece of Dopo(도포) from the grave of Jung, Kwang-Kyung, 7 pieces of Joongchimak(중적막), 1 piece of Sochng-eui(소창의), and 1 piece of pants from the grave of Jae-Hoo Jung, grand-son of Kwang-Kyung Jung. From these remainings, this study newly reveals or confirms : 1) Standards of transition Procedure of mid-l7th century's Dopo with gussets, 2) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Joongchimak with wide sleeves and side slits, 3) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Sochang-eui with narrow sleeves and side slits, 4) Typical style of pants in the 17th century, 5) The constructive methods for quilted fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.153-161
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• 2007

In 2004, Mal-gun(抹裙) was excavated from a plastered tomb in Seok-nam-dong, In-cheon. This tomb is assumed to be from an upper-class woman. The excavated Mal-gun was used to fill in the empty spaces in coffin, and it was seriously damaged and foxed dark. The Mal-gun is made with thin, loose Sook-cho(숙초), and the width of the fabric is 70cm. Both sides of the crotches are overlapped in front, and the back is opened. The waist straps are detached, leaving a little part to show the width of the straps. The hems of the Mal-gun are sewed straight, without any pleats, except some spaces for the feet to go through. This study compared the Mal-gun of Joseon Dynasty from the documentary records and picture records with the excavated Mal-gun from Seok-nam-dong, In-chceon. Also, actual Mal-gun was manufactured according to the excavated Mal-gun to study the process of manufacturing and the formation. As a result, the excavated Mal-gun has the same form of that shown in Ak-hak-gwae-bum, a documentary record from the early period of Joseon Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.343-366
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• 1997

Most of the recently-exhumed excavat-ed costume is the garment for the dead which is one of the costume of funeral rite Investigating the birth and death years of the dead reveals that the excavated cos-tume was mostly used in the 16th and 17th centuries, . The study on the change of clothes in-cludes two aspects; one is manifestication of the structure of clothes and the other is elucidation of the constructure of clothes through examining constructure compo-nents and constructure compo-nents and construction method. This study investigates the costume of the midddle years of the Chosun dynasty in these aspects by examining the excavated Costume of 16th and 17th centries and Ryesu. This study also aims to assist to comprehend the constructure of costume by comparing actual excavated clothes with chronological standards through in-specting diverse clothes in a specified pe-riod. The construction of the clothes of the middle years of the Chosun dynasty is different depending on the purpose of theclothes and the principle of sewing is set up on the bases of mentality and body That is the Costume stands for the individual social and men-tal world of the people at that time since the external construction of the clothes represents their social rank and the inter-nal construction of sewing symbolizes their mentality. The characteristics features of the clothes of the middle years of the Chosun dy-nasty coexistence of diverse sorts and patterns indicates a change in clothes. This suggests that the clothes of a partic-ular class last and change in role corre-sponding to formation lasting and extinc-tion of the class. Thus diversityof the sort of general costume advancement of pattern and the change of clothes de-pending on the change of the class signify that the middle years of the Chosun- dy nasty is a period in which the general costume is actively developed and a turn-ing point for transforming the traditional clothes into new ones, . In other words the middle years of the Chosun dynasty is characterized as an era during which a castume native to Korea is formed with respect to the structure and constructure of clothes.