• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.400-410
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• 2017

Bactria was the intersection of transportation between Greece-Iran and Central Asia at the Silk Road. This kingdom was Greek in all of its ruling classes. Because the Greek culture of Bactria spread to India and the east, Bactria was a very important place in ancient civilizations. The purpose of this study is to understand the life and the various cultures of Bactria and the influence of Greek culture on the costumes of Bactria. The research method was approached through the analysis of the empirical data. Data on antiquities were analyzed in European exhibition catalogs and secondary data collected from Internet. The results of this study are as follows: First, the original costume of Bactria was identified in two styles in the reliefs of the Persian Achaemenid. One is the tunic jacket sarapis that goes down to the knee and wide trousers with half-length boots. The other is the Scythian style trousers that looks like a barrel in a Sarapis. Second, in the Bactrian coin depicting the bust of the Bactrians, the hair styles and headgear of the Bactrian kings were analyzed. The Bactrians wore braids with short curly hair and wore Macedonian hats and helmets on them. Third, the relics excavated from the ruins of Ai-Khanuom depicted the forms of the ruling classes of Bactria. The dress styles and hair styles of gods and priests were imitating the form of the Greek costume as it is.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.191-202
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the form of the clothing of the Scythians who lived in the northern region of the Black Sea. This study refers to data, which has been extracted from reviews of literature, articles and catalogs of Scythian exhibitions held in Germany, a country where famous Scythian research was collected and analyzed. Results of this study are as follows: Regarding the basic form, there was no change in the appearance of the Scythian clothes which can be linked to social classes and regional background. But the detailing of the clothes changed. Russian archaeologist Klocko has stated that decorative bands of ancient costume appear to depend on the construction of ancient clothing. I have analyzed the upperjacket of Scythians with the decorative bands based on the research of Klocko. From this analysis could be observed that decorative bands of upperjacket had also been varied depending on their region and their social status. The decoration of the revers of upperjacket differs according to social status. According to their width, trousers were classified in types; in narrow and wide. The basic set up of the narrow-type is as follows: the trouser is divided into voluminous straight forms and leggings in close contact with the legs. The width of a trouser differs according to the social status of Scythians and from the region where they lived. Regional differences could be observed more significantly, than differences resulting from social status.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.71-86
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the Chinese robe styles of the Paris and Beijing collections from 2014 to 2018 to find the differences between the expressions of European and Chinese designers on the Chinese robe style. The methods of research were a literature review to derive the design analysis items of Chinese robe styles, and a case analysis. The results are as follows. First, both the Paris and Beijing collections showed an increase in use of Chinese robe styles year by year. Second, in the Paris collection, designs using qipao styles from the Republic of China era appeared the most among the robe styles of various Chinese dynasties. Qipao style appeared the most in the Beijing collection too, but the robe styles from the era of Pre-Qin, Qin, Han, Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties appeared more often than in the Paris collection. Third, in the comparison of silhouette type, there were mostly X-type silhouettes in the Paris collection and A-type silhouettes in the Beijing collection. As for neckline and sleeve type, both collections showed stand collars and tube sleeves. Fourth, in color comparison, there were mostly red-based colors in the Paris collection and blue-based colors in the Beijing collection. Fifth, in the comparison of pattern type, there were the mostly plant motif patterns in the Paris collection, and complex patterns in the Beijing collection. In conclusion, it was confirmed that the Chinese robe styles of the Paris Collection expressed a design fused with various styles due to the tendency to respect the diversity of various cultures and of the Beijing Collection emphasized the beauty and ethnicity of traditional Chinese clothing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.1094-1105
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• 1997

Balla within Italian art is characterized by the irreducibility of proteiforme work. He was aware of the possibility of abolishing all the barriers between major arts and minor arts and he placed dissemination of art in life: He applied his idea of a lively, joyous art to the world around him. His irruption of art into life appeared in futurist clothing. As a father of Futurist fashion he designed the futurist dress for men and women. It was invented a new type of dress. It was conceived as the realisation of his art-life-festivity and created with an mimic funtion of modern city. In futurist men's out-fit, he eliminated static lines, forms and colors and he used asymmetrical cuts and various strong bright colors. The colors was the determinent of factor of use of clothing. Women's dress was secondary to his reevaluation of the male dress but it was current with other European trend. He made dynamic patterns in textile design, which were the key point in the futurist design. The factors of the futurist textile design were abstract character, dynamic character and asymmetrical character. But the patterns was not related to the dynamic forms. His invention of the new style was simple form with dynamic patterns as a modernizing factor in clothing design.

• 복식
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• 제35권
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• pp.281-292
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• 1997

Tatan is a symbol of kinship and belonging in Scotland and a badge of identity recognized all over the world. Alongside the powerful historical and national resonance to Tartan for Scots it has been borrowed repeatedly by fashion. The pattern compositionof Tartan check is formed as a typical cross stripes that vertical line and hrizontal line meets rectangulary. And its color is much various and rich than other check pattern. So its magnificient spec-tacle that various all kinds of colors is dyed in cloth is second to name. Today we are as likely to meet tartan in a couturier dress as in a kilt or plaid. Tartan is distinctive in colour style and de-sign. It conveys personality ceremony and drama. All these aspects of its character have contributed to tartan being one of the best-known and best-loved fabrics in the world. In other parts of Europe traditional checked patterns declined and disappeared but in Scotland tartan survived strongly jist as the bagpipes also European flourished Due to geographical and cultural circumstances Scots were able to develop and enhance tartan and its remarkable individuality ensured its sur-vival in spite of adverse political and economic pressures. Tartan has been adopted as the national dress of all Scots. Lowland and High-land providing a powerful form of national cultural and personal identity. Whether tra-ditional or a recent creation whether tra-ditional or a recent creation whether a symbol of nationality or a substitute for nationhood tartan is no mean achievement.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.550-558
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• 2010

Russian Constructivism, which took the lead in the Russian trend of art until the late 1920's, was influenced by European Cubism and Futurism. Breaking away from the previous realistic tendency, Russian Constructivism, to meet the ideology of the revolution, insisted the "Art into Street" and the "Art in Industry" with its abstract and geometric design. Russian Constructivism effected paintings of mid 1920's, as well as Industrial design and costume design. This operated remarkable changes in Russian form of costume and textile area. An unusual situation like revolution had provided the social justification to develop a new costume design not for the special class of people, but for the general public. In this atmosphere, the plan of clothing mass production began to progress. Although the Russian Constructivism costume of arts shows the similarity in the trend of fashion and the physical forms of those days, its fundamental idea in manufacturing costumes was 'to create costumes to be possible to mass-produce and to be wearable to anyone regardless of the social class'. Therefore, Constructivism costume of arts pursued dynamism and geometric form through non-objective design that has broken away from the handcrafted and traditional standards of the past. These distinct characteristics served as a momentum to seek costume design based on productivity and functionality.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.119-135
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• 2016

The initial phase of the Mongol invasion resulted in the establishment of relative political stability in the vast expanses of Eurasia, which came under the control of a single political entity - the Mongol realm. This contributed to a fairly rapid restoration of the commercial links and trade routes between the East and the West. During this period, Chinese silk again became available in large quantities in the Western markets. At the same time, the beginning of silk production and manufacturing of silk fabrics in Italy and the fashion flash for these goods in Western countries affected trade between Europe and the Muslim world. The centers of silk production in the Ilkhanid Empire were some provinces of Azerbaijan and Persia, where from it was exported in large numbers along the trade routes of Anatolia and Syria to the Mediterranean ports and further to the west. There are numerous testimonies of European travelers, and Muslim authors related the international silk trade in 13th-15th centuries, ie in the era from the Mongol Ilkhanid Empire till the reign of the Turkman Aqqoyunlu dynasty. One of the most informative documentary sources on this issue are the legislative codes (kanuname) of sultan Uzun Hasan from the Aqqoyunlu dynasty regarding the eastern provinces of the Asia Minor. This article presents and analyzes the information from these documents concerning the whole range of goods related to silk and silk fabrics trade in the period under the consideration.

• 복식
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• 제50권4호
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• pp.21-36
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• 2000

History confirms that the eastern style was reflected in various parts of the western culture including clothing. In this paper we show some evidence that the influence of India on the French clothing during the neo-classical period(1789-1820) was substantial. Among others, the use of muslin, kashmir shawl and banyan during the period is greatly emphasized. The muslin imported from India was used as the textile for the chemise mown, a typical clothing during the period. Indian muslin was used, because it was of better quality compared to the muslin manufactured in England and France and it was not expensive. The kashmir shawl imported from kashmir in India was also a popular item in Europe not only because it matched well with simple color of chemise gown, but because it expressed the tone of Greek and Roman. Banyan which was most popular clothing worn by men in 18th century Europe originally came from India, which goes back to the Kaftan clothing in the Central Asia. Banyan was an informal home style clothing different from the conventional tight men's wear. It is true that the muslin, kashmir shawl, and banyan also became fashion items throughout the 19th and 20th century to the English and other European people. However, we limited our attention to the influence of India on France because we think the French Revolution and Napoleon's conquest of Egypt are far more important factors when considering the influence of Indian culture on Europe.

• 복식
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• 제54권5호
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• pp.41-57
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze the 20th century＇s makeup according to aesthetic categories. On the basis of aesthetic theories, four category pairs were determined as inter-confronting aesthetic categories: beauty of utility vs. beauty of social aptness : beauty of decoration vs. beauty of construction : sublime vs. grace : classical beauty vs. romantic beauty. 20th century＇s makeup was analyzed at the interval of 10 years referring to the images of actresses in the films produced in Hollywood and European countries. It was identified that 20th century＇s makeup had changed from decorative and dramatic makeup to natural makeup as the century proceeded. Consequently, beauty of social aptness, beauty of decoration. sublime, and romantic beauty were emphasized in the early 1900s while beauty of utility. beauty of construction, grace, classical beauty were emphasized in the later 1900s. In the whole 20th century, grace is the most dominant beauty among eight aesthetic categories due to it connote femininity. As the variety of fashion increases. the makeup patterns has become more diversified in recent years.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.142-151
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• 2006

Bikini, a brief two-piece bathing suit revealing the wearer's navel, was first introduced in Paris, in 1946. However, it was not until the late 1950s that Americans were ready to adopt bikinis. Therefore, I focused on the following research questions to understand the popularization process of bikinis in the United States, from 1946 to the 1960s: 1. Why were Americans initially hesitant to adopt the bikini? 2. What were the factors that influenced the popularization of the bikini among Americans in the late 1950s? Primary sources including Bazaar. Madmoiselle, Vogue, The New York Times, and Life were reviewed. I referred to secondary sources on the history of fashion and American popular culture to interpret primary sources. According to the primary sources, Americans were hesitant to adopt the bikini, partly due to the excessive demand on the wearer's figure. However, the conservative social atmosphere during Cold War would not accept immorality and obscenity which would threaten America's future. Therefore, the campaigns against the sex industry, which developed prominently after WWII, predominated American society during the 1950s. Under this atmosphere, a small number of pictures and articles on bikinis appeared in the primary sources. Bikinis were only found in advertisements including sun lotions and hair removers. However, American society had to accept the change in sexual mores by the end of the 1930s. Body-revealing fashions including miniskirts, hot pants, and see-through material reflected the change in social convention. By the end of the 1950s, the number of pictures and articles on bikinis also began to increase in the primary sources. More Americans adopted bikinis with the increasing number of private pools and European trips. The vogue of sun-tanning and movies featuring bikinis further contributed to their popularity in the late 1930s and into the 1960s.