• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.1-18
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• 2015

The ethnic dress of Germany's Black Forest, called Tracht, dates back to the 16th century. Although most people living within the Black Forest do not presently wear Trachten, some persistence in this tradition exists. This study explored the factors that have supported the persistence of the Trachten tradition, specifically related to the wearing and crafting of Trachten by women, in a contemporary society. A qualitative, ethnographic approach was adopted. Data were collected via observations and interviews in the Black Forest. Thematic analyses revealed that the maintenance of the Trachten tradition was linked to varied factors that revolved around the overarching themes of both persistence and change. Interpretations were supported by theory proposing that ethnic dress is not static, but rather, changes across space and time in ways that enable its persistence. The persistence of the Trachten tradition was linked to formalized practice, meaningful identities, and desires to preserve and promote local culture. Additionally, the persistence of the Trachten tradition was fostered by change in the tradition, including the conceptualization of Trachten as a "lived practice" and the negotiation of Trachten authenticity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.203-213
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• 2007

This study is on the esthetic characteristics of Christian Lacroix's haute couture works. The materials for the study are the precedent studies, the related literature, and the photographs of the works and the interview articles in fashion journal at home and abroad. The result of this study were finds three esthetic characteristics in his works and fashion philosophy; historic, ethnic, and hybrid sense. First, the historic sense, Christian Lacroix's biggest characteristic, is influenced by his major studies, but is not a revival from the past itself but a new characteristic based on borrowing and reinterpreting the images created by introducing and compromising the historic elements. Second, the ethnic sense is influenced by the growing background in his childhood and can be characterized as compromise among the multi-national design features. It is certified by the contrasting images, styles, expressions, materials, ornament elements, and so forth with the worldwide ethnic senses centered by the southern France and Spain. Third, the hybrid sense as the essential characteristic shows the uniqueness in his design by not only combining the modern materials, technologies, and futuristic emotion but also liberally compromising and associating the emotions based on a mixture among the follows; the historic representative styles, the foreign materials, the diversity between the Eastern and Western culture, and all elements, details, trimmings In the fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.5
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• pp.115-131
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• 2013

Dries Van Noten, one of the Antwerp Six, focused on recreating traditional attire from each region to complex contemporary attire and has shown designs that interpreted ethnic image in contemporary perspective from his very first collection. He has positioned himself as a designer with creative expression of ethnic image through broad use of various patterns. This paper analyze the use of pattern in Dries Van Noten's designs by season and item, and reflects on the characteristics of pattern use and influence on fashion image. Total of 887 clothing items were collected from Noten's collections on the Internet. Through analysis of frequency and percentage and cross tab of expression techniques, types, patterns of each motif, and classifications of print combinations, it was shown that Noten has applied six aesthetic rules in the use of pattern design. Pattern played the most significant role in his design. It was possible to achieve the balance of ethnic image and modern image with the mix of flower and abstract motives. Overall pattern was mostly used for practical purpose: border patterns and spaced patterns played a vital role in rendering uniqueness. Noten exhibited unity and variation in combining prints. He expressed the beauty of Oriental style by inserting solid color blocks in between patterns and decorations along trim lines.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.634-646
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• 2007

The aim of his study is to understand the developed aspect and proportions of the exotic images. Thus, this analyzed the exotic images in domestic fashion brand items as an relevance with fashion trend information. The exotic images are in the order of 'ethnic', 'retro', artistic', 'elegance', 'primitive', 'seductive', 'folklore', 'extreme hybrid', 'romantic', 'natural', 'splendid', 'bohemian', 'classical', 'kidult', 'modern', 'traditional', 'vintage' expressed in domestic fashion goods by the categories of its key-words expressed fashion trend information, and suitable for the fashion trend in 21C and fashionable for goods in the domestic fashion market by expressing the racial costume images and retro look, the maximized women's elegance, the difference images with an humor and unfamiliarity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.48-60
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the romantic costume style which has become a big trend before and after the 21th century. For this purpose, I examined the development plans and characteristics of women's costume in France in the Romantic period from the 1820s to the 1850s and analyzed the aesthetic characteristics of romantic costume style The aesthetic characteristics of romantic style in the 19th century were defined by the feminine and elegant beauty, exoticism, and sensuality. Since the 1990s, the characteristics are classified into Feminine & Elegant Style, Ethnic & Fusion Style, and Sensual Style. Feminine & Elegant Style is characterized by delicate, splendid lace and frill decorations that have become more ornamental and technical since the 1990s. They create greater romance and express gentler and more elegant femininity away from the artificial silhouette. Ethnic & Fusion Style use more diverse ethnic patterns, colors, accessories, and details since the 1990s and shows more varieties and creativity in convergence with modern fashion. Sensual Style exposes the physical curve of female body. In the 19th century, cuffs and collars were exaggerated and shoulders were exposed for sensuality. After the 1990s, however, see-through materials have been used to show the beauty of natural physical curves or corsets have been worn as the outerwear. Studying romantic costume style, which arose as a concept of postmodernism, the cultural ideology that exists as a breakthrough of our time, is signified by the understanding of the latest cultural phenomenon and fashion trends.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.59-77
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• 1998

This paper is focused on the traditional sash weaving handicraft of‘She’ethnic group, which is located in Fujian, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Guangdong province of China. This research is main-ly based on the field work, analyzed and inter-preted the traditional sash in systematic and reasoned way. The summary of this study are as follows : 1. On its technological aspect, weaving structure of the traditional sash is made of warp rod backed weaving. The used tool is primitive one but the weaving process includes scientific method. 2. From the social-cultural point of view, the sash ha been the symbol of love towards her lover. Every woman of this group had taken training for this sash weaving from a child. 3. On its ethnological aspect, it has been long history and has interchanged with other ethnic group like Miao, Han and also Okinawa country of Japan. The pattern inside this sash are almost looks like characters, but they are not Chinese characters whereas are the inde-pendent code of‘She’ group and have been inherent from ancestors and which will be tran-smitted to their posterity. These independent code of‘She’group are the traditional message to their later generation implicating their natural circumstances, human relationship, ethnic myth, spirit etc. 4. I recognize that the pattern inside the sash is defined as the communicative code and in comparison to language, it is more repetition and less apparent as close code. Nowadays China has been developed es-pecially in the economical fields rapidly. Under the circumstances traditional weaving culture of ethnic groups has been facing a crisis of disappearance, which will be a great loss for the country as well as the human beings. For this reason, I emphasize that it is very immediate to make co-researches into the material culture of Chinese ethnic groups.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.38-52
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to confirm the international unique color sensibility according to the ethnic color preferences. The existing studies about color sensibility were investigated to analyze the international color sensibility. The countries were chosen according to its, strong regional and racial color. Also, the documents and websites about environment color such as structure color, natural feature color, traditional folk costume color and customary color names were investigated, and then, the international color sensibility was analyzed by using the color image scale. As a result of the analysis about the differences of color sensibility, internationally distinguished color sensibility was discovered. There were differences not only for the preference trend of hue but also for the tone or contrast of color among the selected countries. Especially, Great Britain had a strong preference for G categories that they preferred the warm-grayish color image. Russia has a preference for R, G, and B categories with the preference for the warm-clear image. Netherlands had a preference for R, Y, and PB categories and it preferred the cool-hard-grayish, warm-soft-clear image. Italy had a preference for R and Y categories and it preferred the warm-clear image. Morocco had a preference for R and B categories and it preferred the warm and cool, clear image. Japan had a preference for R, G categories and it preferred the warm-grayish image. Korea had a preference for R and B categories and it preferred the warm-soft-clear, and cool-clear image. With these results, the researcher concludes that the integrated analysis of the environment color and the traditional racial color factors are very persuasive methods to comprehend the international color sensibility.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.110-123
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• 2007

This study is purposed to analyze the characteristics of different images of Hollywood movie costumes centering on the costumes of actresses who are the fashion leaders creating fashions especially focusing on those in 1930s. The scope of this study covers the movie costumes selected from the movies ranging from 1930 to 1939 centering on the Hollywood movies produced and released by large movie distributors and the movie costumes of heroins that exerted great influences on the culture and clothing history of 1930s were examined. As for the methods of study, visual data and image data including movies were collected through related dissertations, articles in journals, internet sites relating to movies and photos and we have analyzed each of the characteristics of the movie costumes appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. Firstly, ethnic images were the reflection of orientalism that was popular in the fashion of the age with the purpose of highlighting the exotic appearances of the actresses and were the cases where the characters of the actresses had to be expressed in ethnic styles due to the spatial backgrounds of movie works. Secondly, glamorous images were highlighting the appeals of plump breasts, shoulder lines and the bodies constricted in the middle and the Hollywood movie costumes in 1930s. The smooth and flowing silhouettes of the heroins of the age were mainly long and slim patterns and female's images were expressed by highlighting the beauty of leg lines or especially by halter neck evening dresses that exposed backs and covered breasts. Thirdly, mannish images reflected tough images of males in order to further highlight the reality of the characters of the heroins of the age pursuant to the emergence of the opinions advocating the equality between men and women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.5
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• pp.17-28
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• 2001

The purposes of this study were to arrange and analyze the Oriental Mode in 20th century fashion and to clarify that Oriental dress and its ornaments appearing as the main subject of Occident fashion gradually The results were as follows : First, Oriental Mode in 1900-1950s was prescribed as the 'Orientalism' to be expressed Occidental imperialistic viewpoint. Therefore, the Orient was used as the simple recording mark of the imperialism product or commercial motive and it was reflected in fashion. Second, it was explained in 1960-1970s as the 'Folklore Orientalism' that focus was moved into the folklore costume of Orient. Third, in 1980s, 'Ethnic' was conspicuous that reflected the traditional costume in the area of non-christianity. Especially, it was the decade that the Middle East attracted attention. Fourth, Oriental Mode in 1990s appeared as the 'Fusion' that Oriental and Occidental elements were mixed and compromised on equal terms. Fifth, it was expressed as a word 'Zen' that had natural fiber, moderate color and silhouette to be most basic and concise about human body at the end of 1990s. This study could confirm that the center of fashion was being converted into the Orient gradually. This may be understood as the pluralistic culture phenomenon. Namely, eclectic principle to recognize mutual style and individualistic nature and to utilize and mix was made, and this brought the conversion into Oriental sense of value.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.41-57
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• 2010

Yunnan, where twenty-six minor ethnics live, is located in Southwest part of China. They have preserved and developed their folk costume, artcraft, music and dance in their peculiar way with natural and cultural surroundings. So, Yunnan is known as a living folk museum. It's worth examining how climate and circumstances change has affected certain differences of dress shape in same ethnic. Research into costumes of minor ethnics can contribute to the study of origin of the trousers, as this group of people have well succeeded the basic form of trousers through their cultural history and everyday life. This study, at first, investigates geographical surroundings of each minor ethnic group, and figures out the style of all trousers by measuring the each size, then compares design color pattern and fabric. The origin of trousers examined by formative characteristics has been classified and comparatively studied. The study materials are twenty-three trousers selected from in Yunnan Folk Museum as well as other relevant literature records. This study suggests that one can examine the type of human culture through the forms of costume which reflects folk custom geography economy etc. This, in turn, can be used as a basic information for other studies, and in particular, for the study of origin and structure of the trousers.