• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.331-347
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to investigate historical and geographical environments in the development of the Naxi costumes of Chinese ethnic minorities and their characteristics-including religious cultures and totem worship-and to suggest the direction of fashion design toward the modernization of traditional costumes. The research methodology involved the collection of materials and investigatation into the history, culture, and characteristics of Naxi costumes; in particular, the "seven-star" sheepskin cape, one of the Naxi people's important ethnic costumes as demonstrated by the women's clothing that has been designed in reflection of this traditional costume. The results are as follows. First, Naxi costumes are found to have overall coherence and distinct locality when retained in the process of modernizing the traditional costume. The theme of this work is titled "By the Light of the Moon and the Stars," which is expressed in contemporary fashion by the use of grey and dark red against a background of black, a color preferred by the Naxi people. Second, the Naxi people's seven-star sheepskin cape is a symbol of women's clothing with its characteristic patterns, shapes, and colors, and it is subject to creative modernization while retaining its unique ethnic characteristics. Third, the work expresses the contemporary stylishness of the costume while maintaining the customary decorative accessories from the Naxi people's traditional culture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.53-71
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to determine the fashion images implied in men's fashion trends and systematize the characteristics of the textile materials used for fashion images, by analyzing men's fashion trends published by Korean fashion information service companies. This study would be meaningful if it can suggest some objective criteria for the characteristics of textile per fashion image. The researcher analyzed the data on the basis of 8 fashion images, which were ethnic, modern, traditional, avant-garde, active, romantic, natural, techno ones. Above men's fashion images were choosed by analyze the some literatures and men's fashion trend information. The data used for this study were information about S/S and F/W men's fashion trends published by Interfashion planning, Samsung fashion Research Center for the period of 1995-2000. The data collected were subject to “content analysis method”. As a result of the analysis, the major images of 1995-2000 were natural, active, traditional, modern, ethnic, avant-garde, techno images, and while such combinations of conflicting images as ethnic/modern, traditional/avant-garde, natural/techno. Other mixed images were ethnic/natural, modern/active, tradional/active, traditional/modern, romantic/modern, ethnic/romantic, traditional/natural, modern/natural, active/natural, active/traditional/natural, etc. The various characteristics of eight men's fashion images were found in color, pattern and textile materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.112-124
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• 2006

Globally, several ethnic groups have expressed their spirit cultures based on their ethnic identity in diverse ways. Clothing has been one of the convenient objects to express ethnic identities. Therefore, patterns and colors used in traditional costumes have worked as a means to help understanding spirit cultures of ethnic groups. Since colors help strengthening solidarity of social members based on ethnic preference and community consensus, colors have performed a crucial role as a strategic tool in the fashion business closely related to consumers' individual characteristics. In survey results, color preferences of Korean and Italian specialists showed significant differences in signboard colors and disliked colors. Many Korean fashion specialists selected pink as a preferred color, black as a clothing color, red and white as a color with high visibility, and orange as a disliked color. In case of Italy, many specialists selected red and black as highly visible colors for a signboard, and green as a disliked color. In results comparing color preference for colors between Korean and Italian fashion design specialists, there were differences in color sensibility. Since this research used data from survey conducted using a very limited and much manipulated stimuli among a wide range of color schema and patterns, the study result may not be fully generalized. In future studies, more research using diversely segmented stimuli would be needed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.8
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• pp.137-148
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• 2003

The culture interest regarding the new area causes an effect even in change of fashion and that result Mongol area where it is area other than Japan, China and India and it is having compromised beauty raised it's head. Mongol is in Noin-ula area which is a it's former self of the Hun's. There is to a textile pattern which was used not only the textile pattern which has the feature of Scythian system but also the textile pattern which has the feature of China was used. The feature of Noin-ula's the textile pattern is as follows. Noin-ula's textiles used Scythian system of animal pattern, vine pattern, palmette pattern, thunder pattern, spiral pattern, shape of diamond pattern. Scythian system of animal pattern and vine pattern proves the interchange with the countries to the west of China. Noin-ula's textile pattern is applied to the designer's work of art. The designers are John Galliano, Etro, Chloe, Emmanuel Ungaro and so on, who express the modern ethnic style design. Because the more developed the modern society is the more embossed feature of intention for the race and the fork art, I think that Ethnic style design is applied to modern sensitive and ethnic style in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.117-127
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• 2001

In the 1980's discuss in the postmodernism and at the 1990's that is globalization. Globalization is the compression of time and space. That is the products of modernism and postmodernism. Global trends are the multiculturalism, localism, tribuism, etc. These trends have a important effect modern fashion. 20th fashion have a modernity -variation, functionalism and popularity, postmodernity-uncertainty, multiculturalism, post structuralism, etc. If Korean fashion have the globality, open to the world other country and culture, deep study of that, and view point of intercultureity. This Study Suggest to achieve globalize of Korean costume. 1. Plon up base on the scholastic study of giobalization. 2. Promote global project of Korean collection. 3. Collect of ethnic, culture, information of fashion America, Europe, etc. and make high up our a sense of disorimination. 4. Manifold studing abroad 5. Strergthening of globalization and ethnic curriculum on Educational course

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.14-25
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• 2009

This Study is purposed to comparative analysis in the case of balanced with Ethnic image fashion and the event of an unbalanced between fashion and make-up and to reconfigure on the make-up of the features on the Ethnic image Fashion in the 21st century. The result of this study is as follows. First, in the case of Japanese ethnic image make-up, to emphasize applied forms and formative characterization, they generally use circles and horizontal lines. Also the harmony between Japanese image make-up and primary colors like white and red strengthen ethnic images better. In the event of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, fashion occurs dynamically in Africa and linearly in China. Sexy & natural image make-up also widely appear in the modern view. Second, in the case of African ethnic make-up balanced with African image fashion, the form is repeatedly dotted, widely water-colored, and mattedly textured using ash make-up colors such as white, red, gold, gray and so forth. African image make-up strongly expresses primitive natural beauty adding primal tribal painting art and mask forms. In case of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, no distinctive ethnic image make-up appears. To emphasize natural patterns as well as splendid & decorative fashion, they try not to use primary colors, but instead focus on natural make-up and monotone colored point make-up, sexy make-up, avant-garde make-up, goth make-up, romantic make-up, glossy make-up.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.1 s.66
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• pp.127-136
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• 2007

Modern society shares new culture derived from the fusion of various cultures unlike the past culture regulating one phenomenon of certain field as the representative icon of the era. Especially, the phenomenon of globalization acts as the catalytic agent to receive coexistence of variousness easily. Especially, in fashion industry, these flows and the view of naturalism are harmonized and new fashion trend called 'Ethnic' was embossed. As it reflects internal spirit of human being that wants to return to the memory due to expansion of material civilization, the interest in the designer pursuing it is increasing. This study tries to consider the Ethnic style displayed by Chinese American designer, Anna Sui, who pursues the eastern style with full wit and individuality. Anna Sui, who was praised by New York Times for 'the superb harmony of houte couture style and up-to-date style', created another fashion trend, romanticism in New York and she is the worldwide designer representing Ethnic. Like it, the consideration on her Ethnic style reanalyzing as eastern style provides guidance to check how designer's fashion philosophy appears in one category of America and China and new study material that enables us to understand the third world culture code as well as Anna Sui. This confirmation has the meaning as the basic material for the endless challenge to the new style that fashion will go on in the future. Anna Sui was confirmed to have been recognized as a designer who represented the ethnic collection in the United States, exerting the influence with her unique oriental background. Moreover, her design could identify the pivotal point of ethnic image by developing her unique style which is distinct from other designers in terms of silhouette, color, fabric, detail, and so on. This kind of study can provide the basic data required to understand the fashion world of designer in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.145-165
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• 1994

This paper analyzes how Cultural identity described by dress in Pearl S. Buck's novel. The result shows that dress described Ethnic identity, Other cultural identity, Dual cultural identity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.185-205
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• 2015

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yi tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ pattern have a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse, splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yi tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and patterns through related books, research papers and inter web sites. As for the result, the Yi tribe's costumes consisted of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the favorite color of the costume is black color, there are splendid embroidery or $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ decorations with the colors of red, yellow, green and purple on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs or a part of a trousers and aprons. Patterns in their traditional clothing also show details that depict traditional cultural ideas that have long been formed in various fields, such as aesthetics, religion, philosophy, and customs. Moreover, most patterns displayed in their traditional clothing contain nature motifs and represent unique and beautiful designs; some patterns are even reminiscent of abstract paintings by modern artists. In conclusion, the traditional patterns of Chinese ethnic minorities reflect the values and notions of these races as well as decorative magnificence and a unique spiritual image. In other words, traditional patterns indicate the spiritual depth or symbolic stories beyond mere formative beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.114-131
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• 2006

An Asian Ethnic Look is based on its own values of traditional costumes and the fashion accessories that are influenced by its own genre within their own culture. In this thesis, it contemplates the study of visual values and the traditional influences of the Modern Western Designers and Asian Designers' definitions and the considerations of an Ethnic look in the countries like Middle East, India, Korea, China and Japan. The standard procedure to understand their Visual and Aesthetic values is acknowledgement of body. From that foundation, an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values were researched through out the Middle East Asian Look, Indian Look, Korean Look, Chinese Look and Japanese Look which effective after 1990's. The studies are further researched to the comparisons and interpretations of the Western Designers and the Asian Designers, and the definitions of an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values in between those. According to each country's religious attitudes, a beauty of concealment and a beauty of negative space appeal which emphasize an ethics on humanity and non-materialistic attitudes. It takes meanings of a phenomenon of nature's worship, Yin-Yang five elements of principles, oneness of body-mind and oneness of universe-mankind. Following the studies of Visual and Aesthetic Values of an Asian Ethnic Look, in 1990's Western Designers' interpretations were prominent use of the Asian Traditional Motif3. However, the interpretations of the Asian Designers were based on their own traditional ethics and they minimized decorative elements but enhanced naturalism, feminism, calm and sober designs compare to the past. The Asian Designers' interpretations of their visual values were based on their Asian mentality, beauty and its straightforward genuine perspective and respects of their own culture.