• 복식
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• 제28권
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• pp.239-253
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• 1996

The purpose of this dissertation is to exam-ine the hippie look which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the early 90s, in re-lation to the hippie style in 60s and cultural restoration. in order to investigate the re-lationship this dissertation studies the trans-feral phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother fashion in the basis of social and clutural theories. hippie culture is the anti-culture which appeared in America in the late 60s, it tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. First of all to examine the inner symbolic meaning and outer shape of the hippie style I divided the characteristics of the hippies into ideology social value and attitude on sex. in the aspect of ideology the hippie show strong subjectivity while mother culture shows ob-jectivity. in social value the hippie has the resisting chaacteristics while mother culture has the conformative characteristics. In the aspect of sex the hippie tries to break the fixed idea of mother culture. Hippie culture as anti-culture is symbolically expressed in hippie style fashion which is dif-ferent from mother fashion in shape. There-fore the inner meaning and the outer shape of the hippie style shows strong characteristics of anti-fashion. Hippie style as anti-fashion has an effect on high fashion in the late 60s and the early 70s and on hippie look which is restored in 90s. however hippie-look in 90s is a mother-fashion in which all symbolic mean-ings of the hippie style are weakened and the only outer shape of hippie style is presented and suggested. It doesn't show any cultural backgrounds ideology social value and new attitude on sex of the hippies. The transferal phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother-fashion is summarized as follows. First in the process of tranference to highfashion in 60s and 70s and hippie-look in 90s the resistance of the hippie style is weakened and only suggested through the outer look. Second the hippie style which reappeared in the high fashion and mother fashion in 90s are layered look military uniform mode flower print grunge look romantic look peasant look ethnic look gypsy style handicraft ornaments working suit style handicraft ornaments working suit style and the use of the see-through cloth. Third the fact that the popular and high fashion were influenced by anti fashion in 60s proves filter-up theory in fashion adaption theory. As I examined before the ideology of the hippies are faded in high fashion in 60s-70s and hippie-look in 90s. The symbolic meaning of the hippie style is also weakened and only presented as a fashion trend.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.84-93
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• 1998

The main focus of this paper is to provide clear understanding about the concept of make-up as total fashion by defining the essential meaning of it. First, we would like to go over the concept of make-up and total fashion, then analyze the make-up image, the changes of colors and images of make-up overtime and fashion that have influenced over those changes. In this paper, we analyze the trend of fashion and make-up in 1990s and their relevancy. Through this paper we hope that make-up can be accepted as a part of total fashion in its relationship with other elements such as shoes, clothes and accessory and that it can be considered as a independent art that has direct influence on people. The trend of Spring/Summer between 1990 and 92is the image of natural beauty and comfortable and modernistic image that can be experienced through nature. In 1992, there was a revival look of 1960s and 1970s. Make-up also followed this trend. The overall color tone was to give natural and stable images with pastel tone to soften the images. This tone brought back the ecology of 1960s. The theme of restoration in humanity and nostalgia was reflected in clothing, and these trend changed the ecology of make-up to peace, love and romantic ecology which was expressed in coral, blue, and green tone to create intelligent image of woman. Year 1996 could be called as color revolution period that emphasized the unique and individual expression of each person. In 1997, black, pastel and brown colors were the result of reinterpreting the classic and sexy images of 1960s to natural and modernistic image of 1997. Purple color started to be introduced to us. The beginning of 1990s Fall/Winter season was based on ecology concept that emphasized the natural image. Until 1995 it appeared that spring/summer and fall/winter trend had no big differences. But from 1995 seasonal differences in trend are appeared and there were various make-up designs. In 1995, 1996, brown color lines make-up comes to mix with romantic image and developed into wine, orange, neon colors. These color were the symbol of property and sentiment and gold make-up emphasizing the eye area was the tendency of that period. In 1997, the fear of coming end of century was expressed as decadent image and at that time ethnic image, romantic image appeared with vivid color lines, gold, red and violet.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to study the cause of obstruction in various knit pattern structures by understanding the needs of the customers, and to develop knitted fabric goods that satisfy the individual taste of consumers and that reflecting the latest fashions. Actual conditions of the manufacturer's designing processes must be examined. In addition, a comparison analysis of fashion sensibilities and preferences between producers and consumers had been made in order to study developing knit pattern structures. Questionnaires and interviews had been used as research methods. The research involved two groups: one group consisted of 57 producers, which included designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, while the other group consisted of 74 consumers, which included students with knitted fabric design as their major and those who have working knowledge of knitted fabrics. For a more accurate evaluation, 28 out of 150 patterns have been selected through a preliminary study conducted by 24 designers. On the 28 knit patterns, a sensibility evaluation had been made through the use of the sense of sight and sense of touch, which was followed by a frequency analysis, cluster analysis, and t-test using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: the fashion sensibility evaluation on knit patterns showed that structures, such as racking II or lace II, are typically elegant ('elegance'), while structures, such as links I or racking I, are typically 'active.' Furthermore, a 'country' image was displayed in structures such as cable I, cable II, and miss II. Links I appeared as 'sophisticated'. Miss I and milano were said to have 'modem' images. Lace II was regarded as 'ethnic', while racking II was said to have a 'romantic' image. 2:1 rib and milano were generally thought to be manly ('manish'). The fashion sensibility scale for each knit pattern has been made based on the above results. Based on producer and consumer responses, the sensibility evaluation on knit pattern structures showed that the two groups had similar preferences in knit pattern structures. Therefore, the fashion sensibility scale developed in this study can be used as a basic data for structure development when designing knitted fabric goods.

• 복식
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• 제53권7호
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• pp.95-109
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• 2003

The style of different styles of clothing have been developed by not only the natural environment and social effects. but also by various variables such as the peculiar cultures and religions of different ethnic groups. It is naturally accepted without question that the origin of trousers was derived from the Skytie race in the modern style of dress. And the style of those trousers has changed and developed throughout a long history in different environments and surroundings. As part of the research of the process in this styles of clothing, it is essential to know how the fabric of trousers has been developed and how the styles have been changed because of different weather conditions and different religions. Nowadays, Eurasian countries was scattered from western and eastern Asian countries to middle Asian countries such as Russia, Uzbekistan, Kazakistan, Turkey, Turkmenistan, Iran and China. These countries are located on the way to the Silk Road. They are fully developed in a cultural area among the different religions. In terms of cultural aspects within the different religions, men's trousers had developed the traditional style of this dress as one of the importnat items on the cultural basis. The ranges and types of these traditional trousers are divided by the regions, such as west and southern Asia, central Asia and China. Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Turkey. Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and Israel was a part of the west and southern Asian countries which were located between western countries and eastern countries. This tribes wore Shalwar trousers which is a wide style of trousers. Shalwar in the western and eastern Asian region has a specific feature by the each nation but has the same distinctions such as by using very wide and loose style and tying a fine thread around the waist. Some central Asian countries consisted of part of China, Turkmenistan. the Republic of Tajikistan. the Republic of Kyrgyzstan and the Republic of Afganistan. These style of trousers are compound types which appeared with mixing Draperian Greek culture. So it can be inferred from this data that the horse-riding nomadic trousers which had been handed down from Skytie tribe through Persia. The style of the trousers in those regions has small pieces. The style of the trousers in China, which is located on the way to the far eastern countries, has developed new trousers put together two pieces of the textile. These widen trousers can be worn by using a sash belt. So we can find out that those trousers of countries which mentioned above have a common point and a rule.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.911-922
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• 2007

본 연구에서는 패션에 나타난 아프리카 이미지에 대한 정확한 시각과 현대 패션의 이해를 목적으로 서양사에서 바라보는 아프리카 이미지와 예술, 아프리카복식의 일반적 특징, 아프리카 이미지의 패션 등장배경 및 시대적 흐름을 토대로 하여 2005 S/S컬렉션에 나타난 디자이너와 디자인작품을 요소별로 분석하여 아프리카 이미지를 도출하였다. 2005년 S/S세계 4대 컬렉션에서 선정된 10개의 디자이너와 브랜드 작품에 나타난 아프리카 이미지는 'Wild Erotic', 'Abstract Primitive', 'Natural Elegant', 'Sporty Romantic'의 4가지 특성으로 나타났으며, 이를 디자인, 디자이너, 패션트렌드 측면에서 아프리카 이미지에 대한 현대 패션의 시각을 살펴보면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 현대 패션에서 아프리카 패션은 주술적, 종교적 의미보다는 장식적인 디테일을 강조하는 경향으로 나타났다. 즉, 토속적인 감각과 도시적 인 감각을 조화시켜 주술적 의미에서 장식적 의미로 이들을 차용하였다. 둘째, 패션디자이너는 아프리카의 원시성, 순수성의 힘을 현대인의 회귀심리 및 자연의 순수성에 대한 동경과 결합시켜 아프리카 이미지를 패션문화의 한 코드로 인식시키고 현대 여성의 도시적 야성미를 독특한 스타일로 연출하였다. 셋째, 아프리카 이미지는 원시생활속의 미의식에서 찾을 수 있는 창작 디자인으로서의 영감은 물론 이국취향의 창의적인 이미지로 연출되어 패션트렌드의 강한 키워드로 자리매김하며 21세기 초두의 트렌드를 주도하였다.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제35호
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• pp.509-541
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• 2017

본 연구의 기본 취의는 역사적으로 문화적 친연성을 지닌 아시아권의 전통춤을 대상으로 한 전통문화콘텐츠 구축을 위한 한 방향성을 제시하는 데 있다. 이를 위해 우리나라의 당악정재 곡목인 <오양선(五羊仙)>을 한 예범으로 그 역사적, 문학적 근거를 통해 그 배경서사의 연원이 고대 남월(南越; 베트남) 지역의 오양선 설화에 있음을 확인하였다. 즉, 다섯 신선이 오색의 양을 타고 오양성(五羊城; 현재의 중국 광주(廣州)에 내려와 여섯 개의 벼이삭(六穗?)을 하사하였다는 설화이다. 나아가 후대에 쓰여진 베트남의 구전설화 <월정전(越井傳)>, 중국의 전기(傳奇) 작품인 <최위(崔?)>가 이 원(原)서사에서 비롯되었음을 확인하였다. 반면 우리나라 <오양선>의 창사에 나타난 배경서사는 원서사에 서왕모와 천도 모티프를 추가하여 군왕의 축수(祝壽)와 덕치, 나라의 태평성대를 축원하는 의례적 모티프를 강화하였다. 본고에서는 3국 내 오양선 서사의 이러한 공통성에 주목하여 그를 소재로 한 각국 전통춤의 전승 현황을 추적한 바 중국의 경우 최근 우리나라 <오양선>을 참고하여 <오양선무>를 재창작한 반면 베트남의 경우 전승이 부재하였다. 그에 따라 전통문화콘텐츠 구축 프로젝트의 추진을 위해 베트남 공연단을 섭외하여 <월정전> 설화를 소재로 한 <치유의 쑥잎>이란 곡목을 창작케 하였다. 그 결과 오양선 설화를 소재로 한 3국의 춤을 한 무대에서 합연함으로써 아시아 악무의 공통적 서사 기반에 기초한 새로운 전통문화콘텐츠 구축의 시론적 방향성을 제시하고 나아가 춤을 통한 아시아 문화공동체 구축의 가능성을 모색하였다.