• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.61-70
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• 2005

A representative British designer, Vivienne Westwood's work. world from radical punk style to aristocratic historical dress is explored in context in terms of Englishness. National identity opens up into the process of mobilization of collective sentiment in the national context, unlike nationalism, and Englishness signifies the idea or emotion of England in contrast with Britishness, the political constructor influenced by geographical aspects. There is no doubt that Vivienne Westwood is central to ideas about creativity and originality in English design on subculture. However, in evaluating a designer and her work we should consider the entire context surrounding her from a broader view, rather than arguing only her own ingenuity. In this article, through reconsidering her originality in the historical reference as well as the resistant punk style in aspect of fluid national identity, I show a case of a constituted Englishness, forged by Vivienne Westwood as a cultural creator of national identity. Vivienne Westwood's case hints the complexities of national culture, which constantly shifts, translating her understandings of history and culture into fashion in her contemporary insight and glamorous ways.

• English & American cultural studies
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.193-218
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• 2014

This essay explores Congreve's last play The way of the World in terms of English new identity of the gentry represented by Mirabell in political, social and historical context of the Bloodless Revolution. Particularly, this essay focuses on behavioral differences between Mirabell and Fainall as characters who manage a certain type of acceptable Englishness through their heir. The acceptable Englishness separates what the differences are between two rakes from the outside of normative principle. The Way of the World reflects Lockean republican ideology in personal and familial relationships. Mirabell as a heroic rake represents new expectations for Englishmen who rejects absolute sovereign contrasted by Fainall's foreign tyrannical ways of domesticity. The Foreignness of Fainall's in the play is displaced by corollary change in the new model of English identity exemplified by Mirabell. Through the play, Congreve tends to satirize repressive morality of Hobbesian extremism and emphasizes the Revolution settlement based on consent sand trust instead. Mirabell's normative will harmonizes individual desire for happiness with social demand. In a sense Congreve's The Way of the World is a play reaching typical Restoration ending of intrigue and conspiracy through two rakes's interaction. Accordingly, this essay tries to show what separates the heroic rake from tyrannical libertine through their way of love, money, compromise and negotiation, which is their way of life.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.63-72
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• 2017

Gardening activities, plant raising, and general flowerbeds the public makes today can be found in the original form of cottage gardens in the United Kingdom. A cottage garden is a popular garden style of modern Britain, implying unique Englishness including ethnic sense and vernacular. In addition, the purpose of this study is to consider the modern movement in the United Kingdom in the past 200 years and read Englishness of cottage gardens through style differentiation and background of occurrence of cottage gardens appearing in this process. Therefore, this study is summarized as follows. First, a view of nature of the Englishman loving freedom and landscape acts as a key part of patriotism and is connected to the preservation of idyllic England. For this ideal of the Englishman of the country, idyllic British characteristics are found in various literatures and artistic fruits; cottage gardens, that is a form of new garden, were made with invigoration of supply and collection of plants. Second, an early form of cottage gardens was the domestic garden, in which there is a vegetable garden by middle-class move to a suburb according to urbanization, but evolved into a form of garden having both artistry and regionality, vernacular, and ecological characteristics with various situations of modern society(handicraft promotion movement, preservation of remains, and ancient building restoration movement). Wild gardens occurring in this process are a type of garden realizing wild fields and forests in the United Kingdom;they have made a big impact on many garden designers up to now. Cottage gardens, reflecting a variety of Englishness, is a subject of city planning and flower shows and is a culture symbolizing the United Kingdom.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.143-161
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• 2012

The primary purpose of the present essay is to survey the relationship between Chaucer's fatherhood and English nationalism. Chaucer as a nationalist poet with essential Englishness is a product of the pre-modern nationalist project initiated between the late thirteenth century and early fourteenth century. In this period, as Turville-Petre regards, the English nationalist identity started to rise in language and literature. Thus this essay surveys the pre-modern nationalist discourse before Chaucer and how it influenced Chaucer to spawn his own nationalist discourse. The latter half of this project, as a reception study, surveys the nationalist receptions of Chaucer in the nineteenth century, when the connection between Chaucer studies and jingoistic nationalism was highly circumstantial. In terms of Chaucer's reception, the nineteenth-century was a crucial period: during this period the nationalist discourse and Chaucer studies firmly combined and Chaucer was envisaged as a boastful nationalist poet. The essay's discussion generally revolves around Chaucer's fatherhood and his exclusive Englishness; "Chaucer the father" is nationalist rhetoric which mediates thirteenth century post-colonialism and nineteenth-century colonialism.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.234-245
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• 2013

The modern fashion was developed the basis on the western dress structure and its historical flow was continued until today. Particularly, the Britain has coexised the unique cultural identity in the aristocratic high culture and rebellious tendency of the subculture so it is necessary to the consideration about whole culture in order to grasp the British fashion identity. The purpose of this study was shown the methodological framework of the culture identity research of one country through the background of this formation of culture and process high culture and subculture study by analysis the culture identity in the today's Britain. Also, the purpose of this study that it draws whether the feature of the British fashion shows up as any aspect in this culture identity. The range of this study subdivides and considers with the imperialism, industrial revolution, aristocratism, union nations, and geographical aspect as the island country into the economy, politics, society, and natural characteristic about the Englishness and the notion of British culture then it draws the dichotomy of the British fashion through the culture identity formed in this society cultural background with both sides in the high culture and subculture aspect.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.1-16
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the meanings of national images represented in Vivienne Westwood' collections through investigating her works in an aspect of national identity. The results were as follows: British fashion is generally known for having two national identities, Monarchy and Anarchy. Monarchy is the traditional British look and Anarchy is the free-spirited look which is related with the postwar phenomenon of rebellious youth culture. As a punk, Westwood participated in creating Anarchic identity of British fashion. But from the 80s, Westwood's attitude toward the national images has been changed. As a high fashion designer who became to represent British fashion in global market, Westwood started to research British dress tradition, especially through comparing with French fashion. She was particularly fascinated with the traditional fabrics like tartans, tweeds and innovative tailoring skills, which were related with the heritage of Englishness in dress. But she didn't follow the conventional ways and tried to reinvent the historical tradition in modern ways. By combining Monarchic tradition with tempting female sexuality, Westwood transgressed the existing ordinary Britishness of British fashion which was composed of aristocratic and royal identities, and created some innovative British fashion images. With these works, Westwood contributed to consolidate Englishness in dress on the one hand, but on the other hand, served to reconfigure Britishness of British fashion. Consequently, Westwood showed that what is believed as the essential national fashion identity can be challenged and reconfigured in modern fashion field.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.56 no.2
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• pp.301-328
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• 2010

Many recent British novels engage with the construction and deconstruction of history and identity; and in dealing with these historical, or historicised novels it seems to be an untouchable ground that truth is beyond grasp. Even when approached, its authenticity should be examined under the post-modern "incredulity toward metanarrative" discourses. Julian Barnes's 1998 novel England, England may be one of these. Yet, unlike others it achieves a complicated and controversial status as a new kind of historiographic metafiction by providing selfconscious reflections on the invention of innocence and the questionable notion of historical authenticity against the background of current postmodern historical, cultural, and literary explorations. The book, set in a near-future, namely post-post-modern England, starts with a story of a young girl, Martha Cochrane, whose first memory goes back to her early infantile years. Yet, the narrator comments that it is a lie, "her first artfully, innocently arranged lie," since memory, or history, is a product of identity, and vice versa. Her memory of the jigsaw puzzle is both a reminiscent and a significant component of who she is now, both a simulacrum and the original of herself. The correlation between her individual memory and identity parallels that of a region, England, in formation of its history and nationality. "England, England" is the replicated miniature of the former glorious Kingdom as well as a becoming der Ding an sich (the thing itself). In search of the English history and identity, the author satirizes the modern mind's perception of the unreliability and arbitrariness of memory and history, and further explores the alternative to the postmodern discourses by suggesting the probability of inventing innocence glimpsed in children's face "believing while disbelieving." In doing so, the author reconstructs not only the history of Englishness on the ground where nothing seems to be solid, but more importantly also the postmodern theme of relativity in relation to memory, history and identity.