• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.54-66
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• 2016

This paper examines the transition of the Hungarian men's costume. Transition of the Hungarian men's costume can be divided into pre-eighteenth century, eighteenth century, and since the nineteenth century. Hungarian costume was derived from the Magyar who settled in Hungary in the ninth century. Hungry had begun to accept Western culture in the tenth century, so when the prototype of Hungarian costume was completed, it consisted of Dolman, Mente, pants, and boots combining traditional Magyar style with Western European style. In particular, Dolman shows the uniqueness of the Hungarian men's costume; it has a high, stand-up collar in the back center, closes on the left, has a right front plate with a diagonal cut at the waist, and a wide front closure. In the eighteenth century, Hungarian men's costumes played an important role in displaying national pride while living under the oppression of the Habsburg Empire. In particular, Dolman was worn as a uniform at the battle of independence (1703~1710). This dress of male courtiers became the distinctive style of the eighteenth century and then became the basic style of men's costumes. Since the nineteenth century, Hungarian men's costumes have acted as an means to promote the national consciousness of Hungary through the Citizen Revolution (1848), the War of Independence (1849), and the formation of the Dual Empire (1867). Looking at evolution of the Hungarian men's dress style, it reveals that resistance and struggles against other nations, a history of aggression, and living under oppressed are factors that impact on important clothing transitions.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제27권3호
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• pp.27-42
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• 2018

This study aims to reinterpret Jeonggwanheon(靜觀軒) in terms of its use and architectural style after restoration work through the recently discovered [Deoksugung Palace's original plan](1915). It is presupposed that the existing interpretation of Jeonggwanheon, such as its status as the banquet hall of the Imperial Empire and the place where Emperor Gojong enjoyed coffee here, was a fantasy made from the transformation after the 1930s. When it was built around 1900, Jeonggwanheon arranged small and large rooms around the corridor in the center, and the porch surrounded the three sides of the building. From 1900 to 1907, there is no remaining record telling us who did what or when something happened in Jeonggwanheon except for several portraits of Emperor Gojong and his son which were drawn in 1902. The mixed use of brickwork and wooden porch are found in many of American style houses built in Incheon and Seoul at that time. Especially, the style and decoration of wooden porch seem to be influenced by Queen Anne style in the 19th century in America.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.48-64
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.57-67
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• 2004

The forms of man's costumes in Byzantine Empire were changed according to each composition of costumes. Those forms of costumes had common features of each period when costumes were included. At the same time, however, the fact that differences existed in accordance with a social position including gender, class, occupation, etc. even though in same period were showed. Analytic elements of man's costumes in Byzantine Empire were selected by important factors. This showed the meanings of position and class in that time. The kinds of analytic elements in man's outwear were various but the forms of costumes were not developed because christianity influenced the forms of clothing in the Middle Ages. As the result of synthesis, the main factor of man's costumes was a tunic in Byzantine Empire of the Middle Ages The phases of the times were reflected on the structure of man's costumes in Byzantine Empire. In particular, religious feature was emphasized, and analytic elements of costumes having meanings showed the features of the society at the Middle Ages. For example, a central analytic element of man's costume, an outer garment was a tunic style of H-silhouette that hid the body line. This was influenced by the phases of the times. Namely, the costume stands as a symbol of the times, and also is a cultural sign that reflects phases like politics, economy, religion.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.119-138
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• 2018

The dragon of the East was an object of worship and an authority to make rain, unlike the West. The dragon image, one of the positively accepted Chinese motifs with the blue-and-white porcelain of the Ming dynasty by the Ottoman Empire in the 16th century, was combined with gigantic saw-edged leaves to create a genre in Saz style. By combining Eastern dragons with plant motifs instead of clouds, dragons were no longer accepted as authority and nobility but as symbols of life and longevity. Unlike Iran and other countries, the image of dragons in Turkish miniature paintings has evolved into a unique style using Turkish calligraphy. The stylistic feature is that a thick black line that gives the impression of calligraphy forms the dragon's back or a huge saz leaf stalk and forms the axis of the screen. Most of the work was black ink drawing, not painting, and partly lightly painted. In the development stage, the dragon appears as a protagonist on the screen of the early works, but the dragon retreats to the latter half and the saz leaves play a leading role on the screen. A common feature in all paintings, whether early or late, is that they have a militant character and create tension on the screen. From the viewpoint of comparative culture, Turkish dragon miniature drawings of the 16thcentury Ottoman period and the Joseon dynasty are somewhat similar in that they are based on calligraphic character and desire for longevity and loyalty, and are drawn according to certain iconic principles.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.113-124
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• 2018

This study is to find ways to use fast-fashion wedding dresses continuously which usually have worn three or four times and just wasted, which is an current interesting issue over the society. Among clothing from the 19th Century, three styles of Empire, and Crinoline were analyzed from their underwear styles to outwear styles through library and museums and are made for rental service. Based on 8-year-old girls' physical dimensions, openings and closing methods of each size were applied to develop and make rental dress designs. It will be a good opportunity to study history and develop creativity if children can try different styles of dresses from different cultures and times and also experience difference wearing ways as they also have such desire. Underwears were designed to be worn by adjusting cloth rings, rubber bands, or hook and eye to fit different dimensions. The final products are as follows. First, empire dress doesn't need underwear to wear. Depending on the purpose of the rental dress, the back side of upper clothes have lace up by using cloth rings like empire style. Skirt was cut to use hem lace suitably from wasted dress. Second, Crinoline dress is usually configured of Crinoline, Petticoat, Two Piece on Drawers, Chemise, and Corset. It was designed by flat front, bigger sides and backs by Crinoline and Petticoat.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.126-149
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• 2021

고종이 집권했던 1863년부터 1907년은 불안한 국내 정세와 열강의 침입으로 혼란한 시기였지만, 조선 왕실과 대한제국의 전환기로 왕(황)실의 어보(御寶) 제작에 있어 중요한 변화를 맞이하는 시기이기도 했다. 고종 연간 제작된 보인(寶印)은 대략 138과로 거북뉴(龜鈕)와 용뉴(龍鈕) 어보의 제작 장인, 조형을 분석하면 이시기 보인 전반을 이해할 수 있다. 고종 연간 활동했던 대표적인 금보장(金寶匠) 전흥길(全興吉)은 왕실에서 다양한 금속공예품을 제작하며 실력을 인정받아 활동했던 장인으로, 거북뉴 금보(金寶)와 용뉴 금보를 모두 제작할 수 있었던 뛰어난 장인이었다. 옥각수(玉刻手)·옥보장(玉寶匠)으로 활동한 김은석(金殷錫)도 전흥길과 마찬가지로 거북뉴 옥보(玉寶)와 용뉴 옥보를 모두 제작할 수 있었던 장인이었다. 또한 옥보장 이중려(李仲呂)의 활동도 주목되는데, 김은석이 활동하지 않는 동안 옥보의 새로운 양식을 창출했을 뿐 아니라 이 양식이 금보에도 적용되어 고종 연간 후반기인 1890년 이후 주요한 양식으로 자리하게 된다. 대한제국 수립 이후 제작된 용뉴의 경우 금보와 옥보가 유사한 양식을 공유하는데, 당시 『대례의궤(大禮儀軌)』에 기록된 장인들은 전흥길, 김은석 등 고종 연간 계속 활동해온 금보장, 옥보장이었다. 이들은 처음 용뉴의 어보를 제작해야 할 때 문헌이나 기록 등으로 중국의 용뉴 인장 형식을 차용하였지만, 용뉴 형태와 용 모습은 당시 조선시대부터 제작되어온 용 조각을 모방한 것으로 보인다. 어보는 왕실과 황실의 정통성과 권위를 상징하는 의물로, 국내외 정세에 따른 변화를 가장 많이 반영하는 공예품이다. 고종 연간은 역대 왕들의 재위 기간 중 어보가 가장 많이 만들어진 시기로 기존의 어보 제작 전통을 지키면서도 새로운 변화를 확인할 수 있다는 점에서 의미가 있다.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.82-97
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• 2013

The aim of this thesis is to investigate the change of men and women's costumes in late 18th century and early 19th century in view of its ideological streams by examining the portraits of the painter Jacques-Louis David. The method of investigation used was to select 29 pieces of portraits from 1766 to 1825, which showed the clear descriptions about the costumes and to analyze the costume's forms, ornaments and the headdress. The category was divided into 3 stages in terms of the changes in costume. The first stage, from 1766 until 1788, is the one of turnaround from the Rococo costume to the early neoclassical one. The typical Rococo costume was incrementally transformed into a simpler design without ornaments, and then natural silhouette in men and women's costumes started to appear from 1783 until 1788. This might be attributed to the neoclassical trend which was affected by the enlightenment ideology. The second stage, from 1788 until 1795, is the period of change from the costume of the early neoclassic style to the typical neoclassic style and also the time from the 1793 to 1795 was regarded as the peak of neoclassic style when the effect of enlightenment began to decrease while one of neoclassicism exerted its strong influence on the costume. The third stage, from 1795 until 1825, similar to the previous neoclassical style was also notable in its turning into producing the empire dress of Empire style. From 1820 on, it was a period that showed signs of influence from romanticism while the effect of neoclassicism started to become more diminished.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2005년도 International Costume Conference PROCEEDING
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• pp.118-119
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• 2005

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2005년도 Joint International Conference
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• pp.81-83
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• 2005