• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.137-156
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to analyze types of roles and fashion of the Chinese first ladies and provide basic data for fashion image-making of first ladies. As for the research methods, the concepts, role types, and fashion of the first ladies were considered by referring to the precedent studies and relevant literature. Then, the fashion images according to role types were analyzed by collecting the photos of Chinese first ladies from the period of the Republic of China until today. The results were as follows: First, when the roles of Chinese first ladies were categorized based on ceremonial, political, and policy roles, Zhuo Lin and Wang Yeping played a ceremonial role; Wang Guangmei, Liu Yongqing, and Peng Liyuan played a political role; and Soong Qingling, Soong Mayling, and Jiang Qing played a policy role while they were first ladies. While the first ladies of the Republic of China often wore classic Chinese styles like traditional qipao as well as western clothes which contained a western influence, the first ladies of the People's Republic of China wore more colorful clothes and more accessories in the later period, and also often wore clothes that combined traditional and western elements. Second, first ladies who played a ceremonial role showed mannish and classic images; those who played a political role showed elegant, classic, and diverse images according to T.P.O; and those who played a policy role showed feminine, modern, and mannish images. Fashion images of the first ladies varied according to the level of political involvement, the sociocultural background of China at that time, and their personality and preference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.80-86
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• 2008

This study is to understand how fluidity and natural features of Art Nouveau style are reflected in hair style of Art Nouveau age and Modem age and be a help to the trend analysis of hair style in the future. The study is conducted with the research on Art Nouveau expression in hair style and analysis of hair-show, trend presentation, documents related with hair style, TV drama, theses, journals and internet etc through advance research for Art Nouveau and Hair. The result of the analysis on Art Nouveau pattern in hair design is presented as below. First, it shows rounded, winding, flowing and thick-waved style of Art Nouveau pattern in modem long and short hair style. It also shows the beauty of long, bending and flexible lines, waving liveness and thin and slim lines and this is the Art Nouveau pattern that is also applied to other fields. In terms of decoration, it does not use tree vines, leaves and petals that are expressed in paintings of Art Nouveau age. Second, it shows natural up-style by lifting hair up with waved long hair that is one pattern of Art Nouveau and expresses hair style with feathers of birds, tree vines, leaves and petals etc for more decoration in animal pattern to make cute, romantic and elegant style in hair style.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.15-34
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• 2006

Knit wear was industrialized, diversified, specialized and was made into high-class and it is including knitted cloth and small product for fashion as well as cardigan, sweater, and jacket etc. unlike past recognition only with underwear and inner wear. To consider elasticity to be the best strength of knit wear, middle-aged women that form change is serious are wearing knit wear as clothes for going out, and this may be regarded as clothes action to be conscious of form than vogue. Thus, in this study, this researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of design of knit wear to supplement the form defect of middle-aged women. This researcher tried to develop the design of knit wear to supplement the form defect of middle-aged women, after examining the theoretical background of knit wear, the bodily and mental feature of middle-aged women. Internal and external knit wear brand that middle-aged women prefer as the scheme for solving the problematic form of middle-aged women with knit wear. As the result first, to see the present situation of inland production enterprise of knit wear, almost all the brand companies are concentrating energies on widening age class. Second, middle-aged women become far off from the form which is regarded ideal form in modern society. Third, result that this researcher examined the brand of knit wear of middle-aged women is as follows : MORADO, Cartknit, Escalier. And, in foreign knit wear brand, ST John, Missoni, ESCADA. Fourth, as the result that this researcher did work manufacture for the supplement of form defect of middle-aged women, it has practical and active side, and off-time has high-class and elegant refined beauty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.37-48
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• 2002

The following paper deals with the interaction between an Austrian art trend from the late 19th century until World War I, the Vienna Separatist Movement, and the Vienna Workshop dress and its ornaments in part designed by the artists belonging to the former mentioned school. Gustav Klimt′s paintings along with his photographs and pictures and articles published in the "Wiener Mode" magazine were subject of analysis. The focus was on Klimt′s paintings with female themes whereby a comparative analysis was made between the development of the forms, hues and ornaments of clothing and the style of paintings at that time. The whole development was classified into three phases. The first period from 1897∼1905 marks the birth of the Vienna Separatists along with the clothing reform movement. The heyday of the Separatists represents the second phase from 1906∼1913 and the decline of the very school and the Vienna Workshop period lasts from 1913∼1918. Refromed dresses were started to be recognized as alternatives, from 1897 when the Separatists started to gain foot until 1o05, and Kimt and Van de Velde published designs that were comfortable and elegant. From 1906 to 1913 the expressionism and Reform Mode of the Vienna artists started to flourish. But during the War the Separatist Movement, which triggered the modernazation of Vienna declined and instead the decorative art of Vienna Workshops started to develop. The asymmetric design of the dress, exotic patterns, shades of complementary colors and reformed clothing were frequently used by Kimt and other Separatists. This is an instance where fashion design directly influenced art and different branches can reflect the same aesthetic standards within the same time frame.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.626-639
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• 2009

As the global trend of Retro combined with the tendency of individualism which respects dramatic change and diversity in the 21st century, Goth subculture of Korea developed into various popular styles. This study, noticing the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture and fashion trends, intends to examine the current fashion trends to analyze the various aspects of the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture. To do this, various documents and numerous Internet materials on the Korean Goth culture are comprehensively reviewed, and the Goth look images of popular stars, photographs from fashion magazines and fashion collections are gathered, analysed, and classified into types, and the specific characteristics of these types are comprehensively analysed. According to the result of this research, Punk Goth look, departing from the sensational and aggressive style of Punk look, expresses sexy and luxurious images, while Romantic Goth look shows the brilliant and cheerful style by mixing the cute girlish image and the elegant feminine image of exaggerated details and voluminous silhouette. Avant garde Goth look parodies Goth image by using the dramatic effects of Goth images or is expressed in performances. Sexy Goth look, which reveals the sexual attractiveness of men and women much more assertively, tries to do suggestive representation and excessive exposure of human body. Dandy Goth look, which has the simple and modern line, expresses the calm and chic feeling by employing basic items with minimized details and coordinating unique accessories for accent.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.809-823
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• 2010

The 21st century is the age of culture and sensitivity. As the interest in the art and culture grows, Artygen who prefers artistic designs grow in number. The desire to enjoy life from the increase of leisure time and financial afford ability created a new trend of party culture. This study analyzes the characteristics of Artygen who pursues artistic sense and sensitivity and suggests party-wear designs that please Artygen and accentuate individuality and personal preferences in a party, which is a type of popular entertainment these days. Through literature review, the background of Artygen and party was examined; First, in order to analyze the feature of art designs, photos of products that were in fashion from 2007 to 2009, (during which the term, 'Artygen', was coined) were collected. Second, in order to analyze the party-wear designs, photos of party-wear in wine party and club party popular among young people in the 20~30's were collected. Through the analysis, the party-wears targeting Artygen was developed based on the characteristics of popular art designs. The results of this study were as follows. First, from the result of analyzing the art design shown in product, casual, romantic, modern, dynamic and gorgeous images were. Second, art design shown in fashion, casual, romantic, chic, dynamic and gorgeous images were. Third, in wine party, romantic, elegant, gorgeous and formal images were in order and in club party, casual, gorgeous, chic and romantic images were in order. Fourth, the study displayed design by connecting aesthetic factor of artistic design to 2 wine party-wear of romantic and gorgeous images and 3 club party dresses of casual, gorgeous and chic images.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.193-212
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characters and images of Picasso's muses, to extract the color chip from the works of Picasso, and to apply these results to fashion design. The study includes a literature review, an analysis of visual materials. The results are as follows. Fernande, who was cheerful and voluptuous, was depicted with pink-brown, a few browns, grey, black, white, and green and represents an ethnic and elegant image. Eva, a star-crossed lover, was depicted with a few browns, black, and pale-yellow and represents a gorgeous and natural image. Olga, who was jealous and sickly wife, was depicted with a few blues, browns and neutral-color and represents a classic and dandy image. Th${\acute{e}}$r${\grave{e}}$se, who was innocent and sweet, was depicted with the bright and pastel colors of red, green, violet, and yellow and of white, blue, brown, and black and represents a romantic, pretty, and casual image. Dora, who was intellectually and emotionally- challenging, was depicted with the strong colors of red, yellow, green, and blue, which are in contrast to black and also to white, grey and brown and represents a wild and dynamic image. Gilot, who was strong-willed and prideful, was depicted with the symbolic color of green, a color contrasting with black and white, grey, and pale brown and represents a clear, cool casual and modern image. Jacqueline, the self-giving and reclusive wife, was depicted with deep red, blue, green, black, white, dark brown, grey represents a formal, dandy, and chic image.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.148-166
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to establish the basic materials necessary for red carpet fashion design by examining the formativeness and fashion images of red carpet dresses at film festivals in the Great China Region. For the purpose of this study, research methods include a literature review on the origin and significance of red carpet dresses, the characteristics of film festivals in the Great China Region and their red carpet dresses as well as an analysis of the formative features and images of 615 red carpet dresses collected from each film festival official homepage, diverse media articles, and online search sites (www.google.com, www.hao123.com). The research finding can be summarized as follows: First, the formative features of red carpet dress designs were analyzed herein. It was found that the most frequently appearing type of silhouette was straight followed by hourglass and bulk in order. More specifically these included fit and flare, mermaid, trapeze, and slim in order. For the neckline styles, strapless was the most frequently seen followed by camisole, jewel, and one shoulder. Solid colors were more often seen than multiple colors. Bk, W, R, and YR were the most frequent main solid colors in order. Solid materials were frequent as well, such as soft and shiny materials. Non-patterned and unadorned styles were most frequent as for pattern types and details and trimmings. Second, the fashion images of red carpet dresses in the Great China Region were analyzed. The most frequent images were elegant, feminine, ethnic, modern, classic, avant-garde, others, mannish and sportive, in order.