• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.97-100
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• 2009

Patchwork is a handicraft to put some certain shapes of small cloths together. Historical records of patchwork was discovered in Ancient Egypt as far back as BC 1000. Patchwork has been popular in the England and in around 13-$14^{th}$ century, European spliced little pieces of cloths for cold necessities, which made the handle of patchwork techniques gradually tend to decorative other than utility. Patchwork designs and techniques were taken across the Atlantic to North America with the early settlers in the mid-eighteenth century. In the early years of $20^{th}$ century, owing to the continuous technological advances, woman got more job opportunities that made patchwork technologies withered. Patchwork art continually evolved on the basis of historical and cultural factors to new styles, the famous Hawaiian, Stained Glass, Mola, Celtic, Victoria, Seminole and many other patchwork styles like that perfect embodied different art and cultures of different nations in different times.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.148-159
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to understand continuity and discontinuity of the neoclassic style in early twentieth century fashion modernism. Researching relations in fashion between eighteenth to nineteenth century and twentieth century, the theory of 'linked solution' suggested by Kubler and Broadsky has been accepted. The results of this study are as follows: In early twentieth century fashion, continuity of the neoclassic style is considered as presentation of geometric form based on anatomical truth of the human body and moderation of decoration. Also simple construction to present practical purpose of the dress in honesty were continued. On the other hand, discontinuity of the style is found in the imitation of men's classic tailored suits and standardization of sizes and styles. These are considered to reflect such early twentieth century sociocultural contexts as equality of the sexes and mechanical aesthetics. Hopefully this study will contribute to the broadening of insight in fashion connecting traditions.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2003

This study aims to analyze the influence which Marie Antoinette, an unfortunate queen and fashion pioneer, had upon leading the creation of fashion in the eighteenth-century. In addition, this study attempts to expect some insights of fashion on the basis of analysis. Marie Antoinette created a new trend of fashion all the time through her hatred of restricting freedom, discontentment and caprice. She created the robes a l'anglaise, a la polonaise, a la levite, chemise a la reine, and so on. Also, Marie Antoinette created a giant hair style by hiring a hairdresser named Leonard. It can be believed that even though Marie Antoinette is open to censure owing to her frivolity, vanity and extravagance, she is recognized a creator of womanish, beautiful, delicate and graceful dress and ornaments.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.118-133
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• 2008

The basic costumes of the joseon dynasty such as pants and jackets were not particularly distinctive over the period in comparison to po. The coat that was worn over pants and jacket, however, had different forms in the course of the joseon dynasty. In this paper, I will analyze the changing style of pyeonbokpo, the daily costumes of Joseon man, which were excavated in recent years. Changes in the collar style were the most distinctive of joseon pyeonbokpo such as cheolik, dapho, aekjueum, jikryeong, daechangyeui, jungchimak, and juyeui. Although pyeonbokpo had double collars in the early joseon dynasty, they disappeared in the seventeenth century: a straight line also replaced by a curve for the collar perimeter. Front-adjusting of pyeonbokpo was very deep in the early joseon dynasty; front-adjusting became simple in the late joseon dynasty, resulting in the central positioning of a ribbon. The rectangular form of a gusset(mu) was stitched to the bodice through various pleats. Gusset patterns changed greatly into various forms in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, along with the ladder gusset form. The long vest(dapho) was half-sleeved and had a deep front adjustment in the early joseon dynasty; however, it did not have collars and sleeves since the eighteenth century. The waist line of cheolik had the ratio of 1.2 to 1 for the bodice to skirt. But the length of skirts grew gradually into the ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 2, and 1 to 3.8 while the waist line moved upwards to the chest line. Sleeves of all po had a straight form but they gradually developed the tendency to widen towards the wrists. Later, sleeves changed again, having a wide rectangular form starting from the armpits. Cheolik was widely worn in the early joseon dynasty; however, it was worn less in later years. Instead, clothes that had slits such as dopo, daechangeui, and jungchimak were greatly available. These characteristics of the change in men's costumes enable us to measure the time period of excavated findings despite the lack of records for Joseon graves.

• 복식
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• 제42권
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• pp.207-222
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• 1999

This study is a thesis based on the fact that at the end of eighteenth century similar change in hair style appeared in Chosun and France which are located very far almost the opposite side of the earth. We can see that very exaggerated and big hair styles of those days in both countries became exceptionally reduced and changed to practical shapes through (an order prohibiting to make large hair style using wigs) is case of Chosun and through the France Revolution in case of France. Outwardly the abobe mentioned change may seem to be caused by such brave and outward convention as the prohibition order and the revolution. however I think that more basic cause of such change from big and splendid hair styles of those days to simple styles was because of many people's sympathy with the necessity of improving various social and economical problems caused by the luxurious and even prodigal situation of those days before the change and additionally because of such pragmatic thought as Positivism of chosun and illuminism of france. In case of france the change in hair style occurred for such a short period of time around the France Revolution(1789) that we can even that the change occurred in a day. However in case of Chosun such change became fixed at the time of king Suncho prohibiting to make large hair style using wigs (1756-1788) was announced. in case of France such change in hair style was mainly because of change of thought caused by people's self-consciousness. But in case of Chosun under the situation where common people's way of thinking about sumptuous moods and beauty was not changed unvoluntary and compulsory change was asked by the King's order so a lot of time seemed to have been necessary for the change in hair style to become fixed as a nationwide common and general custom.

• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.117-129
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• 1999

Hudan Bangryung-Banbee was the name for a traditional dress which had a square neckline collar. Among Bangryung-Banbee, there was a particular style which, plus with the square neckline collar, had the half-length sleeve, bodice whose back length was shorter than the front. This kind of style shown a big difference from the typical pattern of traditional Korean costumes which had the V neck and had to fold the neckband of the clothes in Y-shape. This study focused on the analysis of the change of Hudan(後短) Bangryung-Banbee style. Bangryung-Banbee of the half sleeve/shortened back style had been usually excavated around the period of the Japanese invasion of Chosun dynasty(1592-1598). And up to now this kind of the costumes was never found before the fifteenth century or after the eighteenth century in Korea. Therefore it is thought that Bangryung-Banbee was worn widely in the middle of the Chosun dynasty. However, the shape of the collar and the length of sleeve and of dress were variously used, so it must be recognized that there existed much more diverse styles of Bangryung-Banbee than it was known today. But as the times passed away, the lined Bangryung-Banbee disappeared, and the collar of Bangryung-Banbee changed from square neckline to rounded Wonsam(圓衫) or Baeja(背子)-shape. And in the case of Bangryung-Banbee's front length, the original style disappeared, while a new style of longer back appeared.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.217-227
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• 1998

Male underclothing during this period preserved in the shirt its former qualities though somewhat diminished. The habit of leaving much of the waist coat unbuttoned to display the fine quality of the shirt was more than evidence of social ranks : it appears to have had its attractions to the other sex. But in other respects man's underclothing was sinking into obscurity. This was due, in a great measure, to the closer fit of his suit, designed to exhibit the shape of his legs in breeches and stockings, leaving little opportunity for the display of garments beneath. With the latter part of the eighteenth century man's underclothing ceased to serve for sex attraction, a function on it has never regained, while continuing -in the shirt front and cuffs- to indicate class distinction, until, in modern times, that too has disappeared. The term 'smart' was coming into vogue to indicated the well-dressed man, and for at least a century after, the word implied tightfitting garments which, of necessity, reduced underclothing to a very subordinate function, so that only the shirt front survived for display purpose. Artificial calves was introduced by the Macaronis its purpose was to accenturate the captirating shapelines of the calf of the leg appearing below the tight breeches of the period.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.39-48
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to examine closely the aesthetic characteristics featured in dandy's costume. Dandy was term used on for a man excessively fond of and overly concerned with clothes, exemplified by Beau Brummell, Lord Byron, and count d'Orsay, who greatly in gluenced men's fashions in England and France. In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century George Brummell, the prototype of the dandy, made upper-class English country clothes, especially riding clothes, into the height of men's fashion in the city. In the early 1800s the alterations he made, particularly with regard to fit and cut, established these as the critical signifiers in men's dress. Brummell's style, particularly for day, was essentially restrained and disciplined, and set a standard for sober discretion, appropriateness and taste which governed men's clothing until well into the twentieth century. The aesthetic characteristics expressed in dandy's dress are the aristocratic superiority of mind, the restrained beauty in absolute simplicity, and the pursuit of the individual beauty. Brummell's kind of dandyism instigated the idea of establishing a new kind of aritocracy, an aritocracy based on talent. Over the years this kind of cultural and social coup has been played out in different ways but has remained, like the twentieth-century concept of the avant-garde, a fundamentally male preserve. He advocated unobtrusive darkblue fitted coats, cream-colored trousers, elaborately tied cravats, absence of showy fabrics or excessive decoration, and impeccable grooming. The status of the perfectly tied cravat as the hallmark of genteel elegance, as the last keystone of Fashion's arch, had been established by Beau Brummell.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.161-175
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• 2016

Sensitivity has become more important in relation to design in a changing social environment and atmosphere. In the West, the concept of aesthetics has long been established but in the East, only in the seventeenth and eighteenth century China the discussion had begun. In Korea where the first scholarly discussion on aesthetics had begun around 1929, more and more rigorous and theoretical discussions emerge nowadays. Korean beauty consists of unplanned Beauty and unplanned planned Beauty. Japanese beauty consists of the beauty of half-articulation and the beauty of articulation. While both Korea and Japan base their sense of beauty on nature, Korea emphasizes the nature as it is and Japan values the artful decorative elements. In modern Korean fashion, the characteristic Korean aesthetics of unplanned Beauty appears in the various expressive techniques such as the movement with natural gathering, the use of natural materials like cotton, the harmonization of black and white, and simplified silhouette. Also, there are plays on balance and proportion using straight and curves lines and variegated colors and creative printing, intentional asymmetry, and destrution.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.35-49
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• 2010

The Imwon Sipyukji of this study was compiled by Seo Yugu (1764~1845), a famous agronomical scholar of the late eighteenth century. The contents of this book are divided into sixteen chapters related to all the important parts of rural home life ranging from daily routines to social life covering the agro-industry and the six skills of manners, music, archery, calligraphy, mathematics and horseback riding. Seomyongji, one of the sixteen chapters, covers all that is necessary for living a rural existence such as house-building, clothing adornments and transportation as well as how to make and use daily household items. The contents of the Boksik Jigu sub-section in the Sumyongji chapter consist of eight large units covering men's and women's clothing, bedding and pillows, sewing tools, belt and shoes accompanying the attire and storage for clothes. These eight are further subdivided into 65 items, each warranting a detailed explanation. My study will translate the original Chinese text of Boksik Jigu into Korean. This sub-section in the Seomyongji chapter will facilitate an investigation into the information contained therein on attire and accessories.