• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.411-421
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• 2000

Black froak coat, white shirts, top hat and cane has been the symbol of gentlemen in 19th and early of 20th century. The pattern invented by Savile Row in London prevailed whole England. Such a pattern has been the standard form for two hundred years all over the word, although it was replaced with a functionalism which developed in Italy and America at the end of 20th century. The clothes of gentlemen was developed by several factors ; English people respect a tradition. The clothes was practical, since the weather in England was bad. The success of Industrial Revolution made England wealthy. Various special clothes in sports, for example, riding, criket, golf and tennis also contribute the modern gentlemen clothes with advance tailoring technique. The change of gentlemenship with social environment, from Regency dandy, Romantic gentlemen to Muscular Christianity, was studied. Idial gentlemenship and development its clothes which is now the standard of modern men's wear also studied.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.13 no.1 s.37
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• pp.71-81
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• 2004

The $18^{th}$ century's Industrial Revolution brought about influx of commerce, industry, and agricultural population into the urban areas, entering the $19^{th}$ century. Quality of rural communities declined, and the exploding population in the cities gave rise to various problems. 'Mietskaserne' Blockhousing was constructed by the 'Hobrechtplan', but led to social problems such as poor living conditions, insufficient sunshine due to overcrowding, slums due to incomplete urban infrastructure, epidemics, and so on. Starting in the early $20^{th}$ century, Berlin has driven forward a remodeling plan under the motto of 'critical reconstruction (kritische Rekonstruktion)'. It is performed in the place, which represents the vicissitudinous history of Berlin with site plans coexisting past with presence, using modern vocabulary of architectural forms. Reconstructing a city is a process which not only raises the economic value of each building consisting a city, but also a redevelopment process that brings out cultural value of an era. When a new era emerges buildings get reconstructed or rebuilt, and thereby form the identity of a city by reflecting its society, culture, politics, economy, and history. Old German architecture were not destroyed or rebuilt recklessly just by the fact that they are functionally or aesthetically outdated. Each building is treated as precious cultural heritage reflecting the history. This is how Berlin is being transformed today.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.527-537
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• 1996

This study tries to understand the characteristics of a man's clothes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century, held by the Ewha Womans University Museum. The author adopted the Assy CAD, an apparel CAD system developed by Assysit Company of Germany, in measuring clothes which is intended to solve the problems raised in the previous measurement of clothes, as well as in the making of patterns. The author used tracing paper to make copies of the curved parts, put them into the computer by digitiger, and made the patterns for more accurate restoration. Furthermore, the author compared Lee Hwang's with the contents of the related literature and excavated apparel from other tombs. As a result, Chopri among Lee Hwang's clothes, retained the typical characteristics of the mid-Chosun men's fashion in its ratio of bodice to skirt, form of sleeves, and size of breast- ties for fastening which appeared in the 17th century. Daechangeui and Jungchimak also were distinctive for Changot and the width of sleeves since the 17th century and were in wide use not only as the daily clothes but also as the shroud. These changes were brought about from the two wars which emphasized prestige and beauty of the clothes rather than their functions. As a result, Changeuis were used more widely, while Chopri which was used as the underwear of officials' uniform, was in decline.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.49-62
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• 2004

By delivery means of fashion information, fashion dolls appeared in 18th century. According to development of printing, delivery means of fashion information changed from fashion dolls to fashion plates. Fashion plates offer a colorful and in depth view of the stylish fashions of the past. First fashion plate was Hollars print that was inserted to $\ulcorner$La Galerie des Modes et Costumes Francais$\lrcorner$ and that was published at England in 1643. First fashion plate in France could assumes as winter deshabill that was inserted to $\ulcorner$Le Mercure Galant$\lrcorner$ in 1678. The widespred publication of fashion plates began in England and France in the late 18th century. The first true fashion magazine $\ulcorner$The Ladys Magazine$\lrcorner$ was published at London in 1770. And suddenly similar plates were being published all over Europe. Fashion plates reached their height of popularity in the mid-1800s. Modern age in Europe for fashion magazines golden age, hundreds kinds of fashion magazines published in Europe. Copyright laws in Europe were not enforced, resulting in widespread piracy of fashion designs and plates. After 19th century, America and Europe used much Paris imitation plate. $\ulcorner$The Ladys Magazine$\boxUl$, $\ulcorner$La Gallerie des Modes et Costumes Francais$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Les Cabinet des Modes$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Journal des Dames et des Modes$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$The Ladys Monthly Museum$\lrcorner$ were the important fashion magazines in 18th century. $\ulcorner$The Ladys Pocket Magazine$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$La Mode$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Le Follet$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$La Mode Illustree$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$$\ulcorner$The Queen$\lrcorner$ were the important fashion magazines in 19th century. $\ulcorner$Journal des Dames et des Modes$\lrcorner$, $\ulcorner$Gazette du bon ton$\lrcorner$ were the important fashion magazines in early 20th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.125-142
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• 1999

Dancing along with mankind has existed in various ways form old age to the present. This dancing combined with artistic meaning is called the art of dancing. This study is mainly about the functions decorations and expressions of dancing costume and the claracteristics of the costumes by the 20th century designers Leon bakst Oskar Schlemer Pablo Picasso. The dancing costume were not so much different from those of the public from old age to middle age. In 18th and 19th centuries the length of the cotstumes become short from the knee to the thigh. The functions have much to do with the development of dancing for example the appearance of toeshoes. The costumes are designed not to prevent the movements of dancers smooth line in old age and ladylike vend high-blown line in the 18th and 19th centuries. Cotton and hemp textiles are turning into the transparent forms such as lace and gauge. The personal ornaments earings and necklaces have change into the pattern with wings and tassels. The dancing costumes of Leon Bakst Oskar Schlemer and Pablo Picasso are designed after the due consideration of body shape. Bakst focused on the beauty of smooth lines with splendid colors and decorations. Schlemer analyzed the body abstractly and metaphysically and expressed it with detaile and simple lines. Picasso emphasized cubic forms with cubism and expressed the characteristics of costumes with clear colors and smooth curved line. Bakst Schlemer and Picasso made the early 20th century the age of functional dancing costumes putting a light on the concept of space and foundation for the modern dancing costumes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.661-680
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine to change in the Chinese women's clothing according to the inflow of Western culture in the first half of the both century As for the research method, both literature and visual data are reviewed. Research results are as follows: The Step of transition in clothing by period followed beginning stage, adopted stage, early developed stage, fully developed stage, and static stage. fully developed stage showed a perfect compromise while being applied to Chinese costume with being introduced a three-dimensional cutting method of western clothing even to the constitution as well as to the appearance. Design elements from western clothing are as follows. The transition of silhouette is box silhouette, trapeze silhouette, shift silhouette, and fitted silhouette. In detail and trimming, tailored, band, convertible, shirts collar and zigzag, scallop, camisole neckline and puff, cap sleeve and flounced, bell shaped cuffs and western button, zipper, etc. are adopted. Finally, the Chinese modern style are formed by accepting and transforming the western clothing based on the traditional Chinese clothing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.148-165
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• 2017

An assortment of daily supplies have been documented in and accounting book that Hwa-sun Song, a wholesale dealer in Hongcheon, Gangwon-do, sent to Young-hui Sin, a customer. This study analyzed a total of 163 documentations in the accounting book between 1910 to 1916, which includes types of daly supplies, trading volume, and prices, maintained accounting between. Consequently, we are able to indentify companies that produced the applicable goods, names of products, units by which goods were counted, and the lowest and highest prices prevailing, along with kinds of goods patronized in everyday life in Hongcheon in the early 20th century. Paper had the maximum trading volume. The second, most traded were cigarettes, a symbol of the new culture. These were traded under various brand names, such as Kkotpyo, Guksyu, Sanhopyo, Syonghak, and Joil. Foodstuffs, were the third most traded items, including fish, fruits, sugar, Waeddeok, Chilwaeddeok, Color candies and Okchyun candies. Our results indicate that the snack food business had developed since the 19th century. Lighting equipment, oil, candles, matches as well as traditional oil lamps and flints cornered the fourth largest stock being traded. Medications were fifth, with prescriptions written for Insohwan, Hoechyungsan and Siungo, including quinine, a medicine for malaria. Other trades included kitchen appliances such as soup bowls, porcelain bowls, kettles, and drinking cups, and a variety of daily supplies such as mirrors, mats, umbrellas, Geumjiwaemil, hair oil imported from Japan, and soap.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.117-142
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• 2012

The education of children is one of the most important parts in children's literature. Children's literature, whose implied readers are both children and parents, is a good means to teach how they should behave and interact. Therefore, literary conventions of children's literature tend to be conservative with happy endings or fairy tale elements. Most of the children's literature of the 18th century were read as a conduct book which teaches children good manners and proper behavior, and at the same time served as a guidebook which tells parents how to discipline children. It emphasized the need of discipline to ascertain the hierarchy and order of the family, and cherished the close relationship between parents and children. In the 19th century, the ideal of family becomes more internalized. In the early 20th century, the ideology of family still remained, even though the world wars and economic depressions caused the cracks and collapses of the family. In the later 20th century, the disintegration of the traditional family was accelerated. The ideal of family based on the close relationship between parents and children, has had problems from the start. The attachment and over-closeness became stressful and sometimes could be poisonous. Recent children's literature shows the process of disintegration of the traditional nuclear family, children suffering in the fractured family, children's mental trauma, and nostalgia for the lost family. However, modern children's literature manages to find the lost or ideal surrogate family, and often shows fairy-tale elements such as mystical and heroic child protagonists or helpers who might solve all the difficult problems at once, despite the collapse of the family in reality.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.635-646
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• 2000

Geological achievements of the 20th century revolutionized our views about geological understanding and concept. A good example is the concept of continental drift suggested early in the 20th century and later explained in terms of seafloor spreading and plate tectonics. Our understanding of the compositions of materials forming earth has also improved during the20th century. Radio and stable isotopes together with biostratigraphy and sequence stratigraphy allow us to interpret the evolution of sedimentary basins in terms of plate movement and sedimentation processes. The Deep Sea Drilling Project initiated in 1960s and continued as the Ocean Drilling Project in 1980s is one of the most successful international research observations, and new developments in computational techniques have provided a wholly new view about the interior of the earth. Most of the geological features and phenomena observed in deep sea and around continental margins are now explained in terms of global tectonic processes such as superplumes flowing up from the interior of our planet and interacting with such as Rodinia Pannotia and Nena back in the Precambrian time. The space explorations which began in the late 1950s opened up a new path to astrogeology, astrobiology, and astropaleontology. The impact theory rooted in the discovery of iridium and associated phenomena in 1980s revived Cuvier's catastrophism as a possible explanation for the extinctions of biotas found in the geological record of this planet. Due to the geological achievements made in the 20th century, we now have a better understanding of geologic times and processes that were too long to be grasped by human records.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.18-31
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• 2021

Linoleum is a resilient, hygienic, and eco-friendly floor covering. It was developed in England by Frederick Walton in 1863. Made of cork flour, linseed oil, and burlap as its main materials, the flexible and waterproof linoleum became globally popular in the early 20th century. Unlike the vinyl coverings, the burlap-backed linoleum was used not only in commercial spaces but also in household areas like kitchens, bathrooms, and even living rooms. As a global product, linoleum was imported and used in Korean palaces like Deoksugung and Changdeokgung in the early modern period. According to the record Deoksugung Won-Ahn, linoleum was applied to the major buildings, including Hamnyeongjeon, Deokhongjeon, and Jeonggwanheon, and various other venues. The linoleum used in these places are mainly monochrome blue and brown color, which probably means that they are from England. The trade records in the early 20th century show that linoleum was imported mainly from England and America. The Ewangjik building floor plan in the Changdeokgung Palace shows that linoleum was used extensively. There are even some originals, which were laid in 1920 and left in the Changdeokgung Palace. When Daejojeon and Huijeongdang were rebuilt in 1920, the interior was outfitted with western features and linoleum was used in areas such as bathrooms, the tonsorial parlor, and one of the rooms on the west side of Huijeongdang. In situ in the Daejojeon and Huijeongdang areas in the Changdeokgung Palace are monochrome, patterned black, and stylized floral tile patterned, which are closely similar to American products made by ALC and Armstrong company. This study will help us better understand linoleum's characteristics, its uses and the material itself. It will also form the basis for the restoration of Changdeokgung Palace as well as other modern interiors with linoleum flooring in the future.