• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.1-21
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• 2013

A study using compare and analyze about differences among three basic pants patterns(shape and size of pattern, fitting and amount of air gap and so on) through 3D simulation. This study use 3D simulation program, DC Suite version 3.0. The results are as a follows: The results of comparison about total pants pattern shape, the ESMOD have two tucks of front and one dart of back and the Secoli and On&on have each dart of front and back. The results of estimation about total appearance, the On&on is the best of all pattern about total silhouette of front and back side and the ESMOD is the worst of all. In a case of the ESMOD, the thigh part has so many spaces between body and pants so it is rated low. When we examine about space between body and pants, amount of air gap of ESMOD is 0.6 at waist circumference and next is On&on(0.07). In case of hip circumference, the Secoli is 0.08 and the ESMOD is 0.14. The ESMOD's amount of air gap is 0.32 at thigh circumference and 0.62 at knee circumference. The Secoli's amount air gap is 0.26 at thigh circumference and 0.59 at knee circumference.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.31-53
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• 2008

This study is to suggest a brassiere pattern suitable to the Chinese woman by recognizing the differences among the brassiere patterns of Europe, America and Italy by comparison. Collected data was analyzed by using SPSS 12.0. 1. If seeing the length of the ordinary brassiere's wing in Korea, the mean is 31.02cm to be shorter than these 3 patterns. The length of a wing should be adjusted according to the degree of fabric's elasticity. 2. The ESMOD type shows a high angle of $60^{\circ}$ as the position of a shoulder strip is placed outward a lot compared with other patterns. 3. For the FIT and Marangoni types, the lengths of the inside and the external diameters show similarly to each other but the ESMOD type shows that its inside diameter is 7.5cm and external one is 9.6cm to have the difference of 2.1cm so that it is considered to put the bust together stronger than the others. 4. The cup circumference of the FIT pattern shows to be the biggest and that of the FIT pattern is the smallest. As the FIT pattern has the shape to wrap the side of the bust, it has large circumference but as it has a narrow angle of a dart, it seems to be fit to the woman with a small and flat bust. 5. For 1/2 of the nipple distance of the brassiere for the Korean adult women, it shows to be 6.12cm, much narrower than the patterns studied, and it is noticed that the ESMOD pattern is very similar to the brassier in the Korean market. 6. As the mean keeper height is 6.5cm, it is noticed that it is very similar to the brassier for the Korean adult women if comparing that the brassiere for the Korean adult has the keeper height of 6.5-8.6cm. The Marangoni pattern tends to have a little low and the ESMOD and FIT patterns have a ordinary measure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.46-60
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• 2016

Countries have different brassiere patterns, and this study produced and compared 3/4 brassiere patterns from different countries to determine the difference in patterns, and to investigate the stress distribution and shape of cross section while wearing brassieres using 3D virtual fitting system. Despite the growing interest in underwear, there is a lack of related books and research on brassiere patterns, which causes the difference in sizes and pattern drafting methods by countries. Thus, research on this is needed. 3D virtual fitting system has been introduced to compare patterns, thereby improving visible effects and reducing the loss in cost caused by underwear pattern fitting test. According to the result of pattern analysis, The Secoli type exhibited the least breast cover rate (14.9 cm), while the largest cover rate was shown in Christina and ESMOD types (17.7 cm). It is believed that the difference in pattern drafting causes the difference in the total length of a brassiere. Furthermore, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres drafted from basic bodice pattern were found to be longer than the Christina and Han Sunmi brassieres attained from direct pattern drafting. Moreover, the darts' volume of upper and lower cups in Christina and Han Sunmi types was similar in shape. The shapes of cradle drafted from basic bodice pattern were a straight line, while those from direct drafting formed a curved shape. In fitting multiple cross sections, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres had gaps between the brassieres and the body. Among these, the largest number of gaps was observed in the ESMOD type pattern. This study aimed at performing comparative analysis of various brassieres' pattern drafting types as a basic research for developing a brassiere pattern drafting type.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.100-112
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to investigate the torso patterns by analyzing sensory evaluations. The anthropometric measurements for female college students were obtained between March and October in 1998, and a total of 197 anthropomatric data was used for the somatotype analysis. The appearance and fit of three kinds of torso patterns(ESMOD, FIT, and Muller & sohn) were evaluated by expert panel and the subjects. The results of the anthropometric measurements and sensory evaluations are as follows; The mean height of the anthropometric data for 197 students is 158.98cm. The largest proportion of the three somatotypes(H, M and A type) is big hip type(A type) consisting of 47.7% of all the respondents. The result of the torso pattern evaluations by expert panel indicates that the ESMOD pattern obtains the highest rating in general acceptability. A significant difference(p<.05) in the responses to two questions, the placement of the waist dart, and the gapping & creasing at back hip area was found. The ESMOD and Muller & sohn patterns are given the highest rating in the general acceptability. The result of the evaluation was obtained by the subjects. (Korean J. Human Ecology 1(2):100∼112, 1998)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.575-584
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to develop the better fitting and more comfortable sleeve pattern for women's jacket, as the first step. Five types of existent sleeve pattern were collected, made and worn compared with the sensory evaluations method. The main results of this study were as follows 1. Sensory evaluation for appearance; According to the result of Duncan's multiple range test among the five sleeve patterns, TOJAIUN method sleeve was most satisfactory, and the next was the JUNGMYUNGJA method sleeve followed by NASAN, MOONWHA, ESMOD method sleeve. 2. Sensory evaluation for comfort; The result of Duncan's multiple range test showed that the ESMOD method sleeve was comfortable, and the next was the Japanese MOONWHA method sleeve followd by JUNGMYUNGJA, TOJAIVN, NASAN method sleeve. The result of 3-way ANOVA, main effect for 3 independent variables and interaction for pattern x part, posturers part showed significant difference.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.379-390
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness according to drafting method of the block patterns for women in Korea. The major findings of this study are as follows: 1. According to comparative analysis of required measurements, two measurements of back length and bust girth are used in Proportional Drafting Method (Munhwa). In case of Compromise Drafting Methods are used across chest, across back, bust length, bust width, full length in front, across shoulder and shoulder length in addition to back length and bust girth. The type of Armstrong as a Short Measure Drafting Method uses 10 measurements for the drafting the bodice. 2. While Esmod block pattern arid Armstrong's block pattern are the lightest in full width and other widths. Rasara block pattern is the most ample. In Lee, Myung-hee's block pattern and Lee, Hyung-sook's block pattern, amounts of drooping are decided $3{\sim}4cm$, but drooping amounts of other block patterns are decided corresponding to real measurements. While cap height in Esmod and Armstrong's sleeve patterns are directly measured Armhole length of the block pattern, cap height of other sleeve patterns are used armhole depth and cap height length as well as armhole length. 3. When analyzing to indirect measurements, Esmod block pattern shows the least different between full length of block pattern and that of body form. Munhwa block pattern and Kim, Hyosook's block pattern are mostly same to body form back length. However all of the block patterns are sheller than body form length. In case of Suh, Wansuk's block pattern, across back and across chest are same size, but other block patterns show difference between across back and across chest. Most block patterns' neck width in front and bach bodice are almost same. Front neck width is generally bigger than back neck width in some cases.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.207-220
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• 2006

The purpose of the study is to develop the basic pattern of casual jacket for men aged between 25 and 34. Compared to the tailored jackets, casual jackets are designed much more diverse form depending on the target customer, price range and moreover fashion trend. Therefore in order to reduce the cost and time of developing new style, pattern draft from the basic pattern is better approach rather than develop each style form the measurements every time. For men's casual jacket pattern draft, the basic pattern of fit and comfort was developed through following research procedures. 173 men were surveyed about their habit of buying and wearing of casual jackets. MDs and pattern designers of 10 casual wear brands for men were interviewed. As a starting point, 3 different basic patterns were selected. 2 patterns were from the 2 interviewed brands and the last one was the pattern of ESMOD. The 3 patterns were studied by means of comparing measurements and general styling. As a results it was found that the pattern of S brand is featuring I silhouette, the pattern of K brand is featuring H silhouette and the pattern of ESMOD is featuring Y silhouette. The results of wearing test showed that the pattern of S brand is the best among the three. They were to add ease around the chest line and waist line, to relocate the waist line and the break point, to increase the jacket length and upper arm width. The improved pattern was made of polyester for the wearing test. The wearing test showed developed pattern was improved significantly. To verify the use of developed basic pattern, two buttoned single jacket was made.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.15-35
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to develop brassiere pattern designed to fit the breast shapes based on ESMOD pattern. It has three quarters cup round shape and also consists of three parts; upper cup, lower cup, and wings. Breast types are classified into five shapes; ideal breast, flat breast, upper developed breast, lower developed breast, and projecting breast. Two subjects for each breast type wore the brassiere, and they evaluated the appearance and wearing twice. Type I for research pattern designed to fit into the breast shape reflecting details of breast size were assessed as superior to the divided commercial type. However, wings' tightness of Type I for research pattern brassiere was high. Thus, to improve wearing satisfaction, extra was added to wing. Based on the results of wearing experiments of Type I for research, we adjusted and modified Type II for research pattern. Subsequently, its appearance and wearing were evaluated, in order to be improved. For upper developed breast pattern, we extended the length of lower part to balance upper and lower part, as the upper part was somewhat long. The lower developed breast has the closest feature to the ideal breast, suggestive that implies it does not require much improvement Projecting breast pattern has minimal space in the lower part, so we added the support to lift them to be similar to the ideal breasts. For all the breast shapes, we reduced the wings' tightness from 8% to 7% so that we could extend the length of the wings.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.64-87
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• 2005

The purpose at this study is to develop the appropriate bodice model for Chinese women in order to contribute to the improvement of fitness at clothing products that are exported to China. The sample group was the subject of 149 persons with the standard body shape at 19-24 years old women who reside in Beijing and Shanghai, China. The data analysis is processed for statistics using SPSSWIN 10.0 PROGRAM, and the used analysis methods are technical statistics analysis, factor analysis, group analysis, and one-way ANOVA. The outcome of this study is summarized as follows. 1. Prior to develop the tight-fitting shape of bodice model, the body classification approach by the posture and type of bending and stretching is selected to use 6 index items, and the body types are classified into bent body, right body, and pull-back body. 2. The average body size of standard body shape had 3 times of wearing experiment based on the tight-fitting shape of ESMOD bodice block drawing, and the system was corrected and supplemented to present the final bodice block drawing. 3. Comparisons have been made based on the center front line, center back line and chest circumference for each of existing bodice block for Chinese women, existing bodice block for Korean women and the combination of the bodice block under this study.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.3 s.62
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• pp.434-442
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop the beautiful basic bodice pattern that satisfied both functionality and aesthetics on the basis of the change in the figure and length of surface body for each movement through a three-dimensional development figure of surface body for young women (aged between 18 and 24) who were very sensitive to fitness of clothes. Existing three basic bodice patterns (Yim wonja-, ESMOD-, and FIT-types) were selected and then compared and analyzed in terms of drawing methods and the wearing test was carried out by a sensory test in order to design an experimental prototype. The design of study prototype was improved by three wearing test that was correlated with low satisfactory item. And the ease was established by difference of previous direct measurement and body surface measurement.