• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.156-162
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• 2013

For the development of high quality textiles, silk fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed silk fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curves of the silk fabrics were increased; however, the tensile resilience of fabrics decreased. The hysteresis values of shear force were increased without significant change of shear stiffness. The coefficient of friction values were also decreased and geometrical roughness values were increased. The silk fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight grow as the number of padding increases. The hand values of silk fabrics which were classified into 6 items in the Kawabata Evaluation System, were evaluated as repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice. The hand values of Koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness) were increased, whereas Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Fukurami(fullness and softness) were decreased by dyeing with persimmon juice. However there was no significant change in hand values according to repeating padding times of dyeing.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.59-65
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• 2008

The tannin acid and the enzymes have been used in order to improve the ruggedness in laundry and the absorption of dyes and pigments in the textile industry for several years. The enzyme processing on the protein fiber minimizes the damage of the entire fiber and improves the dyeability by effectively modifying only the hydrophobic surface. This study tried out the structural observation by applying the Castanea crenata sieb. et. zucc. containing abundant tannin to the hair dyeing as the natural dyeing pigment along with Protease of Rhizopus sp. The dyeability was improved as compared to the dyeing using only the synthetic tanning and iron mordant. When the depth of pigment was higher in accordance with the surface observation, the enzyme dissolution had impact on dyeing and so the keratin layer on the hair surface. Accordingly, it was found that the appropriate depth was between 0.01 and 0.03%. It was estimated that 0.1% protease would treated within 30min. Consequently, it would cause the good reaction with the functional group of tannin pigment.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.827-832
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to scientifically proof possibility of development of natural dye which has antimicrobial activity with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum. For that silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts were tested for anti-microbial activity. Bacterials used for test of anti-microbial activity were Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, Klebsiella pneumoniae ATCC 4352 and Trichophyton mentagrophytes IFO 5466. The results of experiment were as follows ; 1. The more the number of times of dyeing increase the more value of K/S increased. 2. Reduction of bacterium against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 of silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts was 99.9% without reference to the number of times of dyeing. 3. Reduction of bacterium against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 of silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts was 99.9% after irradiation of 20 hour without reference to the number of times of dyeing. 4. Reduction of bacterium against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538 of silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts was over 94.8% after dry cleaning. As above silk fabrics dyed with Chelidonium majus var. asiaticum extracts were acquired a high anti-microbial activity against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.192-201
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• 2013

This study explores the culture surrounding the dyeing of royal garments in the late Joseon Dynasty. The findings of this study are as follows. First, several dyes were used to color royal garments, such as jicho, honghwa, danmok, simhwang, sambo, goehwa, chija, and namjong. Mordants such as maesil, hwanghoemok, yeohoe, and baekban were also used with the dyes. Second, the Sangeuiwon (尙衣院) was the department in charge of the purchasing of dyes and the entire dyeing practice. It was the Seonhyecheong (宣惠廳) and the Hojo (戶曹) who provided revenue to the Sangeuiwon through a wongong, regular tribute, and a bokjeong (supplementary tribute). Additionally, additional dyes, if found to be insufficient, could be provided by the Hojo. Every year the Hojo provided jicho, honghwa, and danmok to the Sangeuiwon, and sometimes imported namjong from China. Third, royal garments were, in most cases, dyed by the Sangeuiwon's professional dyers and court ladies belonging to the sewing department in each palace. Naenongpo (內農圃) eunuchs were in charge of the indigo crops of each palace. Finally, more dye was used in royal garments than in the clothes of commoners to obtain a deeper shade of color. In addition, dyers tried to achieve a clear and vivid tone in their garments. Silk which absorbed color relatively easily, was dyed inside the palace using an ice vat filled with fresh indigo leaves; however, cotton was difficult to dye and was sent to professional indigo dyers outside the palace.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.114-123
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• 2014

This research investigated the physical properties of PET coolness filaments and their knitted fabrics including dyeing characteristics of these knitted fabrics according to the different dyeing time and temperature. The coolness filament(S) with non-circular cross-section and hydrophilic property was spun and another commercialized coolness(A) and regular(R) PET filaments were prepared for comparing coolness and another physical properties. Qmax of coolness knitted fabric made with S filament was higher than that of R-PET filament, and the maximum value of Qmax of S knitted fabric was shown at the dyeing conditions of temperature, $110^{\circ}C$ with 30 min. or 40min. It was shown that hand of S knitted fabric was a little harsh comparing to A and regular knit specimens, but shape retention and wearing performance of garment made with S knit specimen were estimated as good owing to high bending and shear rigidity. K/S of S knitted fabric was higher than those of regular PET and A knit specimens. Dyeing fastness of coolness knitted fabric showed between 4th and 5th grade.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.283-289
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• 2001

Shrink resist finishing of wool fabric was carried out with Monoethanol aminesulphite (MONAMIN BTN) shrink resist agent after chlorination with Dichloro isocyanuric acid (DCCA). The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of treating conditions, such as concentrations of DCCA and MONAMIN BTN, pH of treating bath, dyeing times, curing times and temperatures, on dyeing property of wool fabrics. K/S values and fastness properties of dyed wool fabrics were measured. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually with increasing concentration, and decreased with increasing curing time. The optimum dyeing time and curing temperature were 60 min and $140^{\circ}C$, respectively. Also it seems likely that the shrink resist finishing carried out at 3% (o.w.f.) of MONAMIN BTN and pH 7 of resin treating bath is effective in increasing K/S values. Light fastness of fabric dyed was very poor and the fastness of fabric dyed was not influenced by the treatment conditions.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.377-384
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• 2008

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of gallnut was studied. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were been dyed with aqueous extract of gallnut and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally, the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(gallnut) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics carried out simultaneously in the mercerization bath. The dyeability(K/S), which was obtained by CCM observation, remarkably increased as the concentration of chitosan was high. Dye ability of gallnut showed higher toward chitosan treated cotton than controlled cotton fabric under condition at $60^{\circ}C$, for 20 min. The hue value indicated reddish yellow with increasing the crosslinked chitosan concentration. And the color fastness to washing and light was the almost the same.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.117-122
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• 2020

본 연구에서는 제4차 산업혁명시대를 이끌어갈 신산업으로 주목되고 있는 산업 중 전통문화예술분야의 전문인력 필요성 증대에 따른 지역사회의 노력과 산·학·연의 협업이 절실한 상황에서 국내 전통문화예술을 살리고 지역사회의 고부가가치 산업을 활성화 할 수 있는 노동인력 확보 방안을 모색하고 더불어 지역 전통문화·예술·관광행사 및 디자인 상품개발을 통한 일자리 창출을 목적으로 한다. 특히 시대가 변화되고 전통기법 전승에 대한 교육이 갈수록 외면되고 소외 시 되는 현 상황에서 본 연구는 다년간 평택지역의 산업체, 지역대학, 연구소가 협동하여 실시한 천연염색교육과 문화예술행사를 통해 전통문화예술의 전승과 고부가가치 일자리창출을 위한 기초자료로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 기대한다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.138-146
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• 2013

Chemical compositions and biological functions of brown colorants extracted from pine bark(Pinus densiflora) have been studied. Dyeing test using multifiber fabrics with extracted colorants were preliminary carried out. Dyeing conditions and fastness tests of selected fabrics have been also studied. The brown colorants were produced 1.5% concentrations by solvent extraction from milled pine bark using methanol. The colorants were extracted with 80% methanol as best choice by a criteria of solid quantity and dyeability on fabrics. The chemical compositions were identified as mixtures of taxifolin epicatechin and procyanidin by LC/MS analysis. The brown colorants could be dyed not only natural fibers such as cotton, silk and wool but also synthetic fiber as nylon and semi-synthetic fiber as viscose rayon. Maximum K/S values was shown at 400 nm according to different fiber with color appearance of redish brown. Optimum pH and temperature of dyeing conditions was 4 and above $80^{\circ}C$, respectively. The brown colorants had a strong antioxidant activity compared to Butylated hydroxyanisole as standard and weak antimicrobial activity against E. coli. compared to kanamycin. Washing, rubbing, perspiration, dry cleaning and light fastness for cotton, nylon and silk dyed with the brown colorants were carried out by KS K method. Most of color fastness such as washing, rubbing, perspiration, and dry cleaning were represented as 4-5 grade. However, light fastness was reported as 2-3 grade. From this studies, brown colorants produced pine bark have a high potentials for natural dyeing on fabrics with antioxidant activity.