• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.110-122
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• 2014

This study examined hwangbek dyeability for cotton, silk, and wool from different tree species and origin as well as their berberine and palmatine content. A total of 12 different hwangbek were examined, six purchased directly from different locations of China and six purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market. Hwangbek purchased from China were 3 Kwanhwangbek (Phellodendron amurense Rupr.) from Jilin, Liaoning, Heilongjiang and 3 Chunhwangbek (Phellodendron chinense Schneid.) from Sichuan, Yunnan, and Guangxi. Hwangbek purchased from the Seoul Medicine Market included 3 hwangbek that originated from Korea and 3 hwangbek imported from China. We extracted 2.5g of each hwangbek into 500mL of water for 60 min at $80^{\circ}C$. Dyeing was conducted using the IR dyeing machine for 30min at $55^{\circ}C$ using a 1:100 liquor ratio. Cotton was mordanted using tannic acid followed by potassium antimonyl tartrate trihydrate treatment before dyeing. Berberine and palmatine pigments in hwangbek were identified with the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument and the amount of pigment was quantified using an ion chromatogram. The results indicated that the K/S values of dyed fabrics were highly related to the amount of pigment in hwangbek used for dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.10-19
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• 1993

Broad, mercerized broad, mercerized twill cotton fabrics and rayon fabric were treated with cellulase for 30~480 minutes at different temperature, concentration, time, and also treating methods such as continuously-treated or repeatedly-treated, and dyed with two direct dyes before or after enzyme treatment. From the experimental result by treating under the various conditions above, it was obtained that the weight loss increased more in thin fabric than thick one. In addition, it was considered that the treatment in 5$0^{\circ}C$ for 240 minutes brought about the ideal weight loss and flexible hand of the specimens. For both broad and mercerized broad, repeated treatment showed more weight loss than continuous. Direct dye on cotton fabric apparently inhibited hydrolysis. Ionic surfactants showed the inhibition effect of the catalytic hydrolysis of enzyme, on the other hand, nonionic surfactant did not.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.665-674
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• 2014

An analysis of the components of clay mineral before and after coloration (XRF) showed that the elements involved in coloration are Fe, Cr, and Ni. Fe accounts for 65% of coloring components on dyed fabric; in addition, Cr and Ni also affect coloring. The optimal coloration condition was to repeat the process of immersing the cotton fabric in $80^{\circ}C$ slurry of 8g of clay mineral to 1g cotton for 60 minutes, dry it for 24 hours and rinse three times. Especially, as the repetition of coloration increased, the $(K/S)_{440}$ value of sample A increased from 1.0 to 2.5, and sample B increased from 1.0 to 1.6. The effect of the repeated process on coloration was significant; consequently, the rinsing and drying process were important to decrease the coloration level. It also showed excellent results in regard to color fastness to washing, light, rubbing, perspiration, and antibiotic effect.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.14-20
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• 2010

Squid ink was purified to melanin powder by repeated treatments with aqueous sodium hydroxide and acetic acid solutions. The exhaustion dyeing conditions of melanin to wool fabrics were investigated in relation with pH, melanin concentration, dyeing temperature and time. The melanin was dyeable to cotton and wool fabrics but higher dyeability of the wool was observed. A K/S of 7 was obtained on the optimally dyed wool fabrics with 5 % owf melanin under pH 4 at $100^{\circ}C$ for 60 minutes. Color fastness to both washing and rubbing was excellent and color fastness to light was also very good probably due to the polymeric nature of the extracted sepia melanin.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.817-826
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• 2009

As UV radiation to the earth increased over recent years, many adverse effects of UV radiation have been reported. There are needs to develop UV-protective apparel and accessaries to protect skin from these harmful effects. Cellulose is one of the most frequently worn fiber during summer time. However, celllulose shows very low UV-protective property especially in case of thin and low fabric content. In this study, UV-protective cellulose textiles were developed using chiotsan mordanting and green tea dyeing. The repetition effect of chitosan and green tea treatment were focused. Three different cellulose fibers, cotton, linen, and ramie, were used for this study. All chitosan mordanted and green tea dyed fabrics showed increases in UV-protective property. The color of fabrics tended to darker as the numbers of mordanting process and green tea dyeing increased. UV-protective property did not increase significantly upon the repetition of mordanting and green tea dyeing treatment except ramie fabric. UV protective property was persisted upon washfastness test in all three cellulose fiber types.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.33-33
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• 2011

Artificial silk that called "Ponggi (Gyeongsangbukdo, Korea) In-Gyeun" in Korea is entirely viscose rayon of which made main component refined larches and cotton linter. It also is natural fabrics with light weight, cool texture, free from the body and well ventilation property, so, feel good touch during the wearing. In addition, it often used as summer cloth and bedding because it has good absorbancy to perspiration and antistatic. The "Hanji", made of paper mulberry, is known as useful material for human. In this research focused on dyeability of Artificial silk/paper mulberry mixed fabrics using Dendropanax morbifera Lev.(called as "Hwangchil") Especially, the results were in comparison to the dyeing properties of Hwangchil with liquid/solid fermentation or not. As the results, The ${\Delta}E$ difference was dominated when the fabric dyed with fermentation by solid state at $60^{\circ}C$. And it was confirmed that the pH of fermented dye had an important influence in the coloration.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.438-445
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• 2009

This study was conducted to examine the chemical characteristics, antibacterial activity and dyeability of several juices made from Persimmon cv. 'Gyeongsanbanshi'. Young fruits of persimmon were harvested at 1st August, 2006. Fruit juice was extracted soon after harvesting, some of them were stored at $4{\sim}6^{\circ}C$ for 6 months or fermented at room temperature for 6 months. $L^*$ values of vinegar was 43.5 higher than those of fresh juice and fermented liquor. Inorganic matter contents in fresh juice, fermented liquor and vinegar were higher in the order of K ($1696{\sim}2880\;mg$/100 g), Ca ($166.7{\sim}417.9\;mg$/100 g), Mg ($203.9{\sim}214.4\;mg$/100 g), P ($37.9{\sim}109.8\;mg$/100 g), Na ($13.2{\sim}23.3\;mg$/100 g) and Fe ($8.4{\sim}14.2\;mg$/100 g). Cotton fabrics dyed with the fermented liquor and vinegar had the largest inhibitory zone against the gram-positive microorganisms with range of $16.0{\sim}35.0\;mm$. Cotton fabrics dyed with the fresh juice showed $9.0{\sim}9.5\;mm$ inhibitory zone against the gram-negative microorganisms, $15.0{\sim}21.0\;mm$ with the juice stored at $4{\sim}6^{\circ}C$ for 6 months, $22.0{\sim}23.0\;mm$ with the fermented liquor and $9.0{\sim}35.0\;mm$ with vinegar. The hue of cotton fabrics dyed with the fermented liquor had a YR levels, and antibacterial activity of them were 78.5%.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1053-1062
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• 2007

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.76-81
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• 2012

In this study the natural colorant was extracted from black bean seed coat in aqueous solution and used to dye silk and cotton fabrics. To obtain the optimal dyeing conditions it was examined at various dyeing condition (temperature, pH, time and liquor ratio). The dyeing behavior and the depths of shade which were evaluated in terms of K/S and CIELAB color difference values of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were also investigated. The dyeing fastness evaluated standard light and wash fastness tests. The obtained results were as follows ; The most K/S value of silk and cotton fabrics were obtained when the pH was 4.0 and 4.8, respectively and it increased slightly with dyeing time passes when the dyeing temperatures were at $40^{\circ}C$ and $60^{\circ}C$ but, it increased at $80^{\circ}C$. The color of silk fabrics changed from yellowish red to yellow at only Fe mordanting among various mordanting. Sn and Ti mordanting of silk fabric and only Ni mordanting of cotton fabric increased the $L^*$ values, but the others decreased. The light fastness of silk fabrics showed 4-6 grade without mordant, 4-5 grade with Al, 3-4 grade with Cu and Sn, and 2-3 grade with Fe as mordant, and that of cotton fabrics showed 1-2 grade without mordant, 2-3 grade with Fe, 2 grade with Cu, 1-2 grade with Al and Sn as mordants. All mordanting coluld not improve the light fastness of fabrics. Washing fastness(fade) of silk fabrics showed 2 grade without mordants and 2-3 grade with mordants and those of cotton fabrics showed 4 grade with Cu, 3 grade without mordant and with Al, Sn and Fe. All of the washing fastness(stain) of both fabrics showed 4-5 grade.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.