• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권6호
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• pp.827-836
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• 2013

Indigotin, indirubin, berberine, palmatine, alizarin, and purpurin are major pigments of indigo plant, Phellodendron bark, and madder. The six pigments were examined using the HPLC-DAD-MS instrument for the purpose of the simultaneous detection of the pigments in a single sample run. The HPLC-DAD-MS method examined the individual pigment solutions in DMSO, a solution containing 6 pigments, and the DMSO extract of the silk dyed with a dye solution of 5 pigments excluding indirubin. The retention times of the HPLC chromatograms, ${\lambda}_{max}$ of the uv-vis absorption bands in the DAD analyses, and the molecular ions detected for the compound peaks in the MSD analyses were consistent throughout the analyses of individual pigment solutions, mixed pigment solutions, and dye extracted from silk dyeing. The developed instrumental method of the simultaneous detection of six pigments can identify dye in an exhumed textile if the textile is dyed using any one (or multiple) pigments of indigo, Phellodendron bark, or madder plant.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제44권3호
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• pp.303-316
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• 2018

플루오레세인 구조를 갖는 잔틴계 염료의 형광안료로의 응용 가능성 및 제조되는 안료들의 광학 특성 조절 가능성을 확인하기 위하여 본 연구를 진행하였다. 안료 제조에는 수용성 잔틴계 염료인 eosin Y (D&C Red No.22), phloxine B (D&C Red No.28)를 주로 사용하였으며, 염료를 용매에 용해시켜 분체와 분산, 교반하고 이를 건조시켜 분쇄함으로써 안료를 제조 하였고, 제조된 안료들에 대해서는 형광과 관련한 광학 특성을 측정하였다. 사용한 용매의 종류, 염료의 함량, 그리고 염료의 혼합 투입 비율에 따라서 안료의 광학적 특성이 변함을 관찰하였다. 실험 결과에 따르면, 분체에 흡착된 염료 중 일부분이 형광 발색을 하며, 나머지는 형광에 기여하지 않는 것으로 보인다. 안료를 구성하는 분체-염료 계 내부의 결합 (혹은 상호작용) 세기와 그 특성을 파악하기 위한 안료 수세실험 결과, 안료 계 내에는 서로 다른 2개 이상의 상호작용이 존재하며, 그 중 하나는 용매-염료 상호작용보다 비교적 강하였다.

• Biotechnology and Bioprocess Engineering:BBE
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.230-234
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• 2006

In this study, we describe a one-step chemoenzymatic reaction for the production of natural blue pigments, in which the geniposide from Gardenia extracts is transformed by glycosidases to genipin. Genipin is then allowed to react with amino acids, thereby generating a natural blue pigment. The ${\beta}-glycosidases$, most notably Isolase (a variant of ${\beta}-glucanase$), recombinant ${\beta}-glycosidases$, Cellulase T, and amylases, were shown to hydrolyze geniposide to produce the desired pigments, whereas the ${\alpha}-glycosidases$ did not. Among the 20 tested amino acids, glycine and tyrosine were associated with the highest dye production yields. The optimal molar ratio of geniposide to glycine, two reactants relevant to pigment production, was unity The natural blue pigments produced in this study were used to dye cotton, silk, and wool. The color yields of the pigments were determined to be significantly higher than those of other natural dyes. Furthermore, the color fastness properties of these dyes were fairly good, even in the absence of mordant.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.89-100
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• 2016

18세기 제작된 유언호 초상화에 대한 비파괴분석 통해 채색에 사용된 안료의 종류와 채색기법을 추정하였으며, 이를 바탕으로 18세기의 초상화 11점과의 채색특성을 비교해보았다. 유언호 초상에 사용된 안료는 백색에 연백, 황색에 염료, 적색에 진사, 연단, 적색염료, 녹색에 석록, 청색에 석청, 갈색에 적색산화철, 갈색염료, 자주색에 청색과 분홍색의 염료 등을 사용하였다. 11점의 초상화와 채색 안료를 비교한 결과 18세기 초상화에 사용된 안료는 시기별로 큰 차이를 보이지 않았으며, 동일 화첩에 수록된 초상화일지라도 안료의 사용은 초상화마다 개별적으로 나타났다. 채색기법에서는 유언호 초상 이후의 초상에서 얼굴에 진사를 사용하지 않고 산화철만 사용하였으며, 의복의 배채에 녹색 안료 대신 염료를 사용하였다. 본 연구를 통해 18세기 전반에 걸쳐 제작된 초상화의 채색 특성을 확인할 수 있었다. 이번 연구결과가 조선 후기 초상화의 채색기법 연구에 기초자료로 활용되기를 기대해 본다.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제28권
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• pp.109-136
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• 2022

본 연구에서는 조선 후기 기록화인 《평안감사향연도》 총 3점 중 <연광정연회도>를 분석하여 채색 재료를 규명했다. 포인트 위주의 분석으로 인해 발생 가능한 문제를 최소화하고자 우선 파장별 이미지를 촬영했다. 엑스선을 통해 먹, 금, 유·무기 안료를 분류했고, 적외선으로 먹과 구리계 안료를 파악했다. 초분광으로는 흑색, 청색, 녹색 재료 중에서 안료와 유기 염료를 구별해냈다. 색상별 선정 지점을 분석하여 백색(연백), 흑색(먹/쪽), 적색(연단+진사), 분홍색(염료), 자주색(염료), 갈색(산화철), 황색(석황/염료), 녹색(석록/석록+염료/쪽)과 청색(석청/연백+쪽/쪽), 자색(쪽+연지), 금색(금박) 등의 재료를 규명했다. 향후 파장별 라이브러리가 확보되면 더 효율적인 분석이 가능할 것으로 기대된다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.90-99
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• 2011

The aim of this study is to develope eco-printing method using natural pigments and chitosan as a natural binder. Three chitosans with different molecular weights were employed to find appropriate conditions including chitosan concentration and pigment/binder ratio. Dye uptake, color and fastnesses of the printed fabrics were evaluated to find optimum conditions within the range of experiments carried out in this study. The effectiveness of chitosan as a printing binder was examined in comparison with color, dye uptake, and fastnesses of conventional synthetic binder and guar gum. It was found that chitosans with low or medium molecular weight were appropriate. Using low molecular weight chitosan, optimum concentrations were 1.7% for charcoal, madder and chlorophyll, whereas 2.2% for ocher, yellow soil, indigo and cochineal. Regardless of molecular weight and concentration of chitosan, the color fastnesess of fabrics printed with mineral pigments were superior to those of the fabrics printed with plant and animal pigments. As pigment/chitosan ratio became higher, rubbing fastness was decreased by 1-3 grade. The colorfastness of printed fabric with chitosan binder was similar to that with synthetic binder, which was higher than that with guar gum.

• Bulletin of the Korean Chemical Society
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• 제34권8호
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• pp.2276-2280
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• 2013

The accurate prediction of vertical excitation energies is very important for the development of new materials in the dye and pigment industry. A time-dependent density functional theory (TD-DFT) approach coupled with 22 different exchange-correlation functionals was used for the prediction of vertical excitation energies in the halogenated copper phthalocyanine molecules in order to find the most appropriate functional and to determine the accuracy of the prediction of the absorption wavelength and observed spectral shifts. Among the tested functional, B3LYP functional provides much more accurate vertical excitation energies and UV-vis spectra. Our results clearly provide a benchmark calibration of the TD-DFT method for phthalocyanine based dyes and pigments used in industry.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권5호
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• pp.753-767
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• 2019

Dyeing behavior of indigo leaf powder was examined in regards to the effect of the amount of pigments on color and dye adsorption for silk dyed by reduction and nonreduction dyeing. The amount of indigotin and indirubin pigments adsorbed in dyed silk was examined by HPLC-DAD analysis. The color of dyed silk showed 7.7BG - 2.7B hue when silk was dyed at $50^{\circ}C$, and 3.5G - 4.9BG when dyed at $70^{\circ}C$. Blue ($b^*$) and green ($a^*$) color decreased as the pH of dyebath increased. When silk was dyed using nonreduction, R (red) and RP (red purple) hue and R hue was more apparent in samples dyed at $90^{\circ}C$. In reduction dyeing, amount of indigotin detected from silk exceeded the amount that was initially contained in the input dye. The amount of indirubin was lower than indirubin that was initially in the powder. In nonreduction dyeing, silk showed a higher amount of indirubin adsorption compared to silk dyed by reduction. The amount of indigotin adsorbed in silk was lower than the amount initially contained in the input dye. The amount of indigotin and indirubin adsorption was primarily dependent upon the dyeing method-reduction or nonreduction along with dyeing temperature and the pH of dyebath.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권5호
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• pp.914-928
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• 2017

This research investigated the effect of pH of dyebath and dyeing temperature on the dyeability of indigotin and indirubin on silk as well as the relationship between the amount of indigotin and indirubin detected from the dyed silk through HPLC-DAD analysis and the color of samples measured using a spectro-colorimeter. Indigo standard dye and indirubin standard dye were deliberately mixed by ratios 100:0, 80:20, 60:40, 40:60, 20:80, and 0:100 to dye silk with a different pH of dyebath (7, 11) and different dyeing temperatures ($50^{\circ}C$, $70^{\circ}C$). The amount of indigotin and indirubin pigments in silk was calculated using regression equations obtained from standard calibration curves of indigotin and indirubin. A higher indigotin percent ratio resulted in the higher K/S values and the higher amount of indigotin detected from silk. However, higher indirubin percent ratio in the mixed dye did not relate to the higher indirubin pigment detected in silk. While indirubin showed low or negative contribution to the K/S values, it showed a higher effect on the color of dyed silk. Higher amounts of indirubin in dyed silk resulted in a darker PB color, which led to P color with increases in indirubin content.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.337-343
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• 2009

This study systematically investigated a method for extraction of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius Linnaeus) colorants by ultrasonic treatment. Compared to pigments productivity and cell wall structures of safflower after general and ultrasonic method, the ultrasonic method showed high extraction efficiency of safflower pigments due to destruction of safflower cell wall caused by high vibration energies. Microscopic analysis confirmed the hypothesis that the ultrasonic treatment of safflower caused its cell wall structure loosened and made efficient extraction of safflower pigments. And also, LC-MS/MS analysis revealed that productivities of the yellow and red safflower pigments by ultrasonic method were 21.9% and 14.6% higher, respectively, than those of pigments extracted by general method. The ultrasonic extracted yellow and red colorants could be used to dye not only natural fibers like cotton, silk and wool, but also synthetic fiber like nylon, and generally gave a better color tone than the general extracted colorants from safflower due to the affinities of red and yellow colorant on different fibers. As the yellow and red colorant were extracted by ultrasonic treatment in water, the K/S value on of 550/440nm of cotton and rayon was increased but in the case of silk and wool the change of this value was almost not detected. Finally, this technique might provide a solution to establish reproducibility and standardization for the extraction and dyeing methods on fabrics.