• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.23-38
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• 2011

This research is to examine the formative of patterns and characteristics of expression in Danzhai Miao batik of Guizhou China and to reveal the cultural factors and characteristics of artistic expression inherent to it. As the research methodology, theoretical study was done by utilizing the preceding research data, literature data at home and abroad, photo data, and Internet data, and as the empirical research, field trip was made to Guizhou China and investigation and experiment of dyeing techniques, purchase of dyeing craftworks, photography shooting, and interviews were conducted. The results of this research showed that ancient Chinese batik began in Miao in the Jinhan era and the three types of Miao's traditional batik, i.e. Danzhai batik, Huangping batik, Anshun batik. Danzhai Miao batik obtained indigo blue white patterns through traditional production techniques and natural dyeing batik and represented Miao batik of Guizhou. In the expression of Danzhai Miao batik, based on the cultural backgrounds, the formative such as symbolic of patterns, tradition, primitive, reality, abstract, and decorative of dress designs and high dignity of artistry of creative batik patterns be found from the aspect of expressing magnanimous nationality.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.583-599
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze movie costume of main character and find design characteristic and historical spirit focusing on the movie, in which Ishioka Eiko, Japanese movie costume designer constructing unique design world, participated. The study captured images of three movies such as , and with Digital Multimedia Converting System and analyzed them by focusing on the pictures showing designer's intention and design characteristic well among acquired 319 pictures. The costumes addressing movie costume designer's sense of values are recreated as future-oriented new works and are expressed as creative costumes by acquiring inspiration from past factors, dissolving them and applying up-to-date technology. Movie costume shall reflect historical spirit of our age as movie shows social cultural trend including fashion trend of manufactured age. Ishioka Eiko has searched for the design, which is proper for three principles such as 'be unique', 'be eternal' and 'be innovative' and from the result of analyzing movie costume, it is found that she showed characteristics of symbolism(transmission of the sensitivity), ornamentalism(effective representation as a decorative effect attention) and multiculturalism(harmony of time and culture) as well as uniqueness. The movie costume are different mutually and create new hybrid culture, in which different costume cultures are mixed with current costumes without the restriction to other culture. It is proper for the age of globalization and localization so it is expected that the multiculturalism will be enlarged more.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.336-346
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• 2013

This study focuses on 'texture' as one of the most important fashion and textile design elements; in addition, it proposes various applications of it. Surface texture is indispensable in fashion and textile design that also factors heavily into innovative creations. Along with technological advances in the fashion industry, surface texture has derived many new and attractive features that provide more opportunities for designers to show various design concepts. Rather than the surface quality of fabrics, surface texture in fashion design creates its identity through a manipulation of materials- an application that tends to be primarily for visual effects without being restricted to decorative purposes. The status and significance of surface texture in various creative fields is explored and the evolution of surface texture is traced by analyzing a number of fashion design cases with representative surface textures. The latest feature of surface texture in fashion and textile design is identified to establish a new classification of surface texture with five groups and technical suggestions. This study provides a theoretical basis for this field of study and a new framework that can be employed in the development of surface textures that use innovative techniques as well as the future application of newly-developed textures.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.661-673
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• 2011

This study aimed to identify the intrinsic characteristics of camouflage patterns by reviewing their origin, transitions and types from a theoretical background and analyzing their forms of expression in contemporary fashion. For a literature review and an empirical analysis of the camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion, the study referred to domestic and foreign fashion magazines published between 2000 S/S and 2010 S/S, including Gap Press, Fashion News, Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, and other related data available on the internet. The findings of this study show that the forms of camouflage patterns used in contemporary fashion can be divided into four types: abstract patterns, plant patterns of flowers or leaves, animal patterns and dotted patterns. In terms of coloration, the camouflage patterns work to refresh the design, breaking from the image of military uniforms through the use of a wide range of color variation and combinations as well as the traditional camouflage colors based on khaki and beige. In terms of expression, most of them utilize printing. However, other techniques of expression, such as embroidery, beading, knitting, and collages are used to emphasize the beauty of handcrafted decorations along with the aesthetic value of reliefs. Through these tendencies of expression, the characteristics of contemporary fashion using camouflage are explained with an emphasis on feminine beauty, the expression of neutrality, and the use as decorative factors.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.83-94
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to analyze the reality of clothes-wearing among physically disabled women and propose trouser designs. As a research method, an in-depth interview method was adopted for 10 women in their 30s and 50s with lower limb disabilities who could wear trousers and use wheelchairs. The study results identified the following factors that should be considered in the design of trousers. First, a semi-casual design that could hide physical deficiencies, was not different from ready-made clothes and enabled various looks was desirable. Second, the proper material would have little transformation in the form, have remarkable durability and laundry fastness, two-directional stretch, and hide deficiencies with a sense of thickness and density. Third, an "L-frame" pattern in a sitting position, and a straight fit were desirable. Finally, pockets can impose pressure according to their form, size, position, and sewing method, highlighted the need for a sewing approach to minimize seams in the fabric. For adjustment, an elastic band would be a good choice in terms of type, length, position, and material as it could satisfy both the convenience of putting on and taking off and comfort in wearing at the same time. Decorative design details can also impose pressure according to a sense of thickness, which means that they should be avoided in parts that are close to the body or can impose pressure according to posture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.18-33
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• 2023

Zero-waste pattern cutting is a groundbreaking sustainable fashion practice. However, few brands and designers have pursued this method because it requires creative pattern design that diverges from the existing process of using pattern slopers. Therefore, application within the fashion industry is not sufficient. Therefore, in an attempt to highlight the key characteristics of zero-waste pattern design, this study classifies and analyzes cases in which similar designs employ zero-waste pattern-cutting techniques. We hope to make zero-waste pattern design more accessible by presenting realistic pattern-cutting guidelines. To this end, theoretical research on relevant literature, previous research, and online resources and an empirical analysis of cases involving zero-waste pattern cutting were conducted in parallel. As a result of the study, we were able to classify the factors of zero-waste pattern design in terms of fabric use, design, and composition. Regarding materials, our research revealed the importance of appropriate fabric width, understanding the difference between waste minimization and minimal fabric use, and easy reuse and recycling. In terms of design, the simultaneous progress of pattern and design work, adjustable loose silhouettes, and the use of surplus fabric for functional and decorative details emerged as key characteristics. For composition, we found that size adjustment limits, arrangement irregularity, and pattern shapes were crucial elements and that various arrangements revealed unlimited design potential.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.6 s.165
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• pp.911-922
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• 2007

In this study, for the purpose of correct viewing on the image of Africa and understanding of modem fashion, African image and art, the general characteristics of African costume, the background of fashion subjecting African image, and the trend according to ages were examined based on theoretical background. Then the researcher drew African image by analyzing the works in four 2005 S/S major fashion collections to designers and design factors. The ten voted designers' and brands' works in 2005 S/S collections had four concepts of African image; 'Wild Erotic', 'Abstract Primitive', 'Natural Elegant' and 'Sporty Romantic'. The viewpoint of modem fashion on African image from the aspect of design, designer and fashion trend can be examined as below. First, African costume, which was religious and ceremonial, appeared to emphasize its esthetic side with decorative details in modem fashion design and designers competed to choose a method to harmonize tradition and modem style and by adopting these from occult to decorative meaning, Second, fashion designers presented city unpolished beauty of modem women to a special style and made african image to be recognized as a code of fashion culture by integrating it with modem people's mind to go back to the past and admiration for the purity of nature. Third, thanks to the instinctive vitality hidden in the primitive life, inspiration for creative design that is found in the esthetic mind of the Indians, foreign taste emphasizing ethnic trend, and admiration to naturalism due to the increase of concern over ecology, 'African image' led the beginning of 21C trend by being settled as a in fashion trend.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
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• s.33
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• pp.271-291
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• 2013

Cartoons exhibit contents and images and deliver them to readers by repeating frames. Frames embody the cross sectional factors of space-time, and the repetition of frames makes those cross sectional factors into a continuous flow. The gutter, which exists between frames, takes the role to make the continuous flow link smoothly, and at the beginning stage of the gutter, the operating of the gutter was usually passive by the frame meanings. However, the gutter is not just a medium for linking the frames, but is an efficient participation device for creating new expression methods of cartoon organization. By producing new directing methods for cartoon organization, the distinctive functions of the gutter have been kept alive with cartoon history. The distinctive functions of the gutter can be divided largely into transition function, reminiscence function, speech balloon function, pen function, and decorative function. And those functions perform actively as direct expression method of the gutter. When those functional methods are expressed by the author's intention and the frequency of them is generalized according to described contents, using each author's individual differences can suggest direction for new directing organization of cartoons.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.56-67
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• 1987

Plywoods used for construction as a decorative interior material are inflammable and can make fire accidents, causing destruction of human life and property. Therefore, it is indeed required to make fire-retardant treated plywood. In this study, 3.7mm yellow meranti plywoods were soaked in 18% boric acid solutions and tap water by hot-cold bath for 1/2, 2/2, 4/2, 6/2 hours and redrying of treated plywoods was carried out by press drying at the platen temperature of 110, 130, 160, $180^{\circ}C$ and then it was conducted to investigate solution absorption, drying rates, dynamic young's modulus. specific gravity and fire-retardant factors such as burning point, flame spread length. flame exhausted time, back side carbonized area and weight loss by treating time, treating solutions and platen temperature. The results are as follows; 1. When plywood was impregnated with the hot bath temperature of $70^{\circ}C$ for 1. 2, 4, 6 hours and the cold bath temperature of $15^{\circ}C$ for 2 hours respectively, retentions of boric acid were 1.565, l.597, 1.643, 1.709kg/$(30cm)^3$ and all of them exceeded the minimum retention [1.125kg/$(30cm)^3$] even in the shortest treatment. 2. In hot-cold bath method for 1/2 hours, the drying rates of treated plywood remarkably increased with the extension of platen temperature of 110, 130, 160, $180^{\circ}C$ and the values of boric acid treated plywood were 5.900, 10.196, 45.42, 54.958m.c%/min and the values of water treated plywood were 6.014, 12.373, 46.520, 55.730m.c%/min and drying rates of water treated plywood were faster than those of boric acid treated plywood. 3. The values of boric acid treated plywoods in dynamic young's modulus were widely higher than those of water treated plywoods. And it can be observed that there were highly significant differences for treating time between dynamic young's modulus, and the values of boric acid plywoods increased with the extension of treating time but on the contrary water treated plywoods were decreased values with prolonged time 4. It was observed that there were highly significant differences for platen temperature between dynamic young's modulus. When the values of water treated plywoods in dyna nic young's modulus were abruptly decreased according to the rise of platen temperature. boric acid treated plywoods showed rather increased values at $160^{\circ}C$ of platen temperature. And in 2- way interactions, there were also highly significant for dynamic young's modulus between treating time x treating solutions and platen temperature x treating solutions. 5. Correlation coefficients of fire-retardant factors were shown in table 5. It could be recognized that there were close correlations between the treating solutions and burning point, flame spread length, back side carbonized area, flame exhausted time and weight loss, but there was no correlation between fire-retardant factors and treating time and platen temperature. 6. From table 6, it can be observed that there were highly significant differences for burning point, flame spread length, flame exhausted time, back side carbonized area, weight loss between treating solutions. And in 2-way interactions, there were highly significant for burning point, flame spread length, weight loss between treating time $\times$ treating solutions.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
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• v.76 no.6
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• pp.687-708
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• 2020

Openings in steel plate shear walls (SPSWs) are usually used for decorative designs, crossing locations of multiple utilities and/or structural objectives. However, earlier studies showed that generating an opening in an SPSW has a negative effect on the cyclic performance of the SPSW. Therefore, this study proposes tripling or doubling the steel-sheet-plate (SSP) layer and stiffening the opening of the SPSW to provide a solution to undesirable opening effects, improve the SPSW performance and provide the infill option of potential strengthening measures after the construction stage. The study aims to investigate the impact of SSP doubling with a stiffened opening on the cyclic behaviour, expand the essential data required by structural designers and quantify the SPSW performance factors. Validated numerical models were adopted to identify the influence of the chosen parameters on the cyclic capacity, energy dissipation, ductility, seismic performance factors (SPF) and stiffness of the suggested method. A finite Element (FE) analysis was performed via Abaqus/CAE software on half-scale single-story models of SPSWs exposed to cyclic loading. The key parameters included the number of SSP layers, the opening size ratios corresponding to the net width of the SSP, and the opening shape. The findings showed that the proposed assembly method found a negligible influence in the shear capacity with opening sizes of 10, 15, 20%. However, a deterioration in the wall strength was observed for openings with sizes of 25% and 30%. The circular opening is preferable compared with the square opening. Moreover, for all the models, the average value of the obtained ductility did not show substantial changes and the ultimate shear resistance was achieved after reaching a drift ratio of 4.36%. Additionally, the equivalent sectional area of the SSP in the twin and triple configuration of the SPSWs demonstrated approximately similar results. Compared with the single SSP layer, the proposed configuration of the twin SSP layer with a stiffened opening suggest to more sufficiency create SSP openings in the SPSW compared to that of other configurations. Finally, a tabular SPF quantification is exhibited for SPSWs with openings.