• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.13-25
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the concept and characteristics of 'grotesque,' examine the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque reflected in arts and dress, and modern fashion. The findings are as follows: 1) Grotesque indicates unnatural, unpleasant, and exaggerated that it upsets or shocks person. The characteristics of grotesque include terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust. 2) The grotesque art represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by disordered form, nonnatural things, evil world, unorthodox methods, unrealistic image, strange dreamland. 3) The grotesque dress represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by exaggerated silhouette, exaggerated adornment, excessive decoration, incroyables, using exaggerated silhouette, crinoline silhouette, bustle silhouette, surrealist style, extraordinary materials, glam rock style, unique silhouette, cyber look. 3) Terror was implied in the punk look suits of Junya Watanabe, and exaggerated outers of Viktor & Rolf. Abnormality was shown in the atypical suit of John Galliano, Junya Watanabe's dress decorated with the extreme ruff, Thom Browne's suit of abnormal proportion. Unreality was reflected in the architectural dress of Gareth Pugh, Mermaid dress of Giles, the surreal suit of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Amusement was represented in the amusing suit of Gareth Pugh, John Galliano's dress of sexual perversion. Disgust was reflected in the decadent dress of Thierry Mugler, Undercove's suit, and the ensemble of shocking details.

• 복식
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• 제25권
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• pp.71-83
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to analyze the formative costume of Baroque style and to in-vestigate the characteristic of loop and tassel which are the main factors of decoration in the Post-modern clothing in point of the characteristic of retro. For this purpose, theoretical studies about the concepts of Post-modernism and aesthetic sphere o Baroque style were preceeded. Especially the parody which is concept that is the most influencing to the contemporary art, architecture, and costume. It is the identity of the parody that is being understood smoothly the creation and the imi-tation which is contrasted each other. The parody is urging the purpose rather than the essence and the recreation rather than the originality of the original works. The synthetic results were as follows ; 1. The frequent usage of loop and tassel which was expressed in the first half of 1990's in the modern clothing influenced the aes-thetic will of aspiration about the past. 2. The characteristic of retro to the tra-ditional form constitutes a base of spiritual thinking of Post-modernism which has been expressed in 1970's afterwards. The peculiarity about the great change in the traditional concept of artistic creation in the Post-modern clothing is the very extention of a range of application about the retro in which it becomes the essence or the oppor-tunity in artistic creation.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2006

In the history of fashion, the category of knitted items was traditionally associated with ordinary clothing products like undergarments and socks. However, in a mere century Chanel has changed that idea by bringing into fashion consciousness items such as sports sweaters, jerseys, and suits, and so it has been necessary to upgrade this notion. As the needs of the times and new inventions have an inseparable relationship, knit fashion was also born with a close relationship with the zeitgeist of the time - the feminine movement, the rise of sports fashion and the world war - adapting itself up to the present time through continuous changes. Most brands are elevating knit from a mere decoration into a collection piece in a large number of collections every year. The number of brands that cannot exist without knit is increasing, such as Sonia Rykiel, Missoni, and so on. This essay is written with the purpose to study the birth, growth and future potential of knit items. The first stage concentrates on the age of knit's appearance (1910s-1930s). Contingent upon the collection of further data, this essay will be continued through the second stage (the 1960s - 1970s) and the third stage (after the 1980s).

• 복식
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

The 21th century is the time-area where knowledge, information and culture are considered as the pivotal factor for keeping society. Thus, this affects every part which consists of culture. By 2000, various cultural changes create several culture trends all over the world. Above all, advent of CHAV is the remarkable cultural phenomenon because of its life style, fashion and self-awareness. This study analyzes CHAV's life style and fashion based on regarding it as subordinate culture. In terms of these aspects, CHAV's fashion can be divided into three parts by its inner and outer traits. The first is merrymaking style which is composed of combination, parody and excessive decoration of different factors. This is a kind of Pop-Art style that imitates mass consuming culture. The second is ostentation style which emphasizes CHAV's traits and acts group behavior. The third is violence style. CHAV tries to appear violent and indifferent for gaining their rights and power. As a result, CHAV is the rebounding phenomenon that means psychological fear and conflict which neglected people have to resist official authority.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.231-241
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• 2009

Embroidery is one of the oldest methods of textiles surface decoration. The masterpiece "Tapisserie de Bayeux," is one of the earliest Medieval embroideries. Embroidery was popular on a broad scale with introduction of what was called Opus Anglicanum("English work") in the 13th century. France had been producing sophisticated embroideries since the 16th century. England was the country producing the greatest quantity of embroideries of the best quality in the 17th century. Until the 17th century, the Church was the most important patron of needlework. Then a shift in emphasis occurred towards the domestic embroidery. English 17th century domestic embroidery reached a high point of technical brilliance and charm. In France, embroidery was produced on hangings as well as costume. 18th century interest in embellishing the domestic environment, embroideries became much more finely detailed than those of the 17th century with the use of finer wool and silk threads. French silk were the finest in the world, and their embroidery was arguably equally fine both in furnishing textiles and on costumes. "Art Needlework" was the major movement in embroidery in the late 19th century. The Royal School of Needlework was founded in 1872, followed by similar institutions around Britan. Splendid fashion embroidery of French haut-couture that was represented to Lesage atelier in 20th century.

• 복식
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• 제67권1호
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• pp.1-21
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• 2017

The Korean folk drama is one of the traditional art performances of Korean folklore, and it is usually characterized by mask dances. An investigation on the costume of Korean folk drama is of great historical significance because they present the variety of typical costume according to the characters. The Sandae-Nori drama of Seoul Gyeong-gi province which was designated as im- portant culture property, has the closest form to general Korean folk costume. The usual characters have their typical costume and reflect the costume of the latter Choson Dynasty period. The costumes are used as a tool of the drama to indicate the character, and the impression of the dance. The costume of the Korean folk drama is made to indicate the character because it is for the play. What is more, the costume of the Sandae-Nori drama of Seoul Gyeong-gi province shows the general aspect of folk costume of the world, which remains as the symbol of the traditional culture and shows more decoration and visibility.

• 한국조리학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.19-30
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to gather useful information for establishing an efficient marketing direction by investigating the flavor, serving patterns, price and cooking method of Dong-rae Pajeon which is a native local food of Pusan area. A questionnaire was answered by 226 citizens who experienced Dong-Lae Phajeon. The study data were analyzed by frequency analysis, t-test, ANOVA, and multiple regression analysis. The findings are summarized as follows: The flavor, presentation, types of oil, and price of Dong-rae Pajeon had influence on the satisfaction of respondents. To globalize Dong-rae Pajeon, 'developing its cooking method', 'decreasing its price', and 'developing its serving patterns' should be considered.

• 의료ㆍ복지 건축 : 한국의료복지건축학회 논문집
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.59-68
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• 1997

This study is intended to review the Nucleus System of standard hospitals in U.K. The research is focused on the theoretical background, contents of Nucleus System, and the operational problems through the survey of sample hospitals. The contents of research include the development history of standardization, outlines, aimes, advantages, the data of Nucleus system, and the study-visits of sample hospitals. The conclusion could be summarized as follows ; 1) The form of standard hospitals is compact and low-rise the major movements are horizontal. The standard plans of the functional dpartments are unified as cruciform with $15m{\times}15m$ module. 2) The Nulceus System has been developed. The hospitals have 3 stories maximum and courtyards for natural light & ventilation. 3) The advantages of Nucleus System includes reduction of design & construction period, the buildability due to the repetitive construction, and the running cost. And the disadvantages are mentioned as the lack of storage, staff accomodation, pantry, and sanitary facilities. 4) Sample hospitals provide human scale, possibilities of growth & change, and curing environment from art decoration & artificial lake. 5) In case of Korean situation, even the minimum standardization such as hospital design guidelines should be developed in near future.

• 한국화예디자인학연구
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• 제45호
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• pp.57-76
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• 2021

음식상의 꽃 장식인 상화(床花) 양식을 조선시대 행사도와 민간 생활에서 찾아보았다. 궁중 행사도에는 음식 위를 장식하는 상화가 꼭 있었으며, 참석자의 지위에 따라 상화의 종류나 사용하는 재료가 다르다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 의궤(儀軌)에는 상화의 종류와 개수가 기록되어 있었고, 행사의 목적이나 대접받는 사람의 지위에 따라서 장식하는 숫자가 다르고, 상화가 미리 꽂혀져 옮겨지는 것을 알 수 있었다. 민간생활에서도 상화가 있었으며, 음식 위의 장식뿐만 아니라 음식상 위에도 장식되어 있는 것을 알 수 있었다.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.1-38
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• 2022

Many knotted carpets from western China and Central Asia from 700 BCE to 700 CE demonstrate strong resemblances to the Assyrian-Persian stone reliefs and Hellenistic-Romanmosaics. Egypt reveals the earliest samples in plain linen fiber and carpets with colorful designs in the mural paintings. The Egyptian wall decoration in faience shows the motifs of waterlily in two variations in the design, both of which appear in the Assyrian floor thresholds designs. The same waterlily or four-petal design in the Egyptian and Assyrian stonework also appear in the Pazyryk knotted carpet in the same manner. The Assyrian thresholds show a composition with a central area and borders in a square or rectangular overall design, which again parallels the Pazyryk carpet. The ideas of composition and motifs commonly seen in the Hellenistic and Roman mosaics appear in the carpets of Central Asia and western China. The similarities between the stone mosaic works and carpets demonstrate clearly that the remote places and peoples in ancient times learned from, and exchanged with, each other the ideas and artistic styles, and integrated to create some local artistic traditions, thanks to the roles the easy-to-carry textiles played throughout the Silk Road. The carpets played their roles: as practical material for daily use, and as carrier of cultural information through their designs.