Writer Hong Myung-hee, author of the novel Im Kkeok Jeong, provided an excellent description of the costume customs of the Chosun era, based on an understanding of various historical texts and literature by practical science proponents, and experience gained from the Hong household of Pungsan, a noble family of high standing during the Chosun dynasty. However, there is a tendency towards descriptions of late Chosun era customs, rather than 16th century customs, with the intent of heightening the image of what most people felt to represent Chosun and its prestige, thereby generating greater reader sympathy. Therefore, information on the costume customs of the novel 1m Kkeok Jeong is analyzed and re-formed to fit with the temporal setting of the 16th century. By providing data to aid visual understanding and re-creation, the intent is to accept it as material for the rumination of our ancestors and their lifestyles in the 16th century. The novel provides a good description of Chosun economic customs, in which cotton and hemp were used not only as fabric for clothes, but also as currency. The trade value of cotton drapery or hemp drapery with dimensions of 5 strand density at a length of 35 ja per roll was designated as 5 mal (about 90 liters) of rice by national law, but the actual value varied depending on the production of rice. Also, it is possible to confirm the existence of sang po with dimensions of 3 strand density at a length of 30 ja per roll, or 2 strand density seochongdae cotton, which was used only as currency due to the rough quality. Characteristics of the Chosun dynasty, a class-based society, are described through distinctions of attire. The writer's intent regarding the symbolic nature of attire reflecting social position, a characteristic of the entire Chosun period, is analyzed with the presentation of visual material.
The objective of the study is to propose diverse knitwear designs by expanding the scope of the use and application of knit fabric. The study looked into diversifying the knitwear designs by using different types of zippers and with the combination of the diversity given by the zipper used in attachable and detachable method and the traditional North European knit patterns. One way of contributing to the diversity of fashion design is to use the zipper, as it can be implemented as an attachable and detachable fastening system. Also, the combination of North European traditional knit patterns with knit fabric can create a new and unique knit styling. The content of the research focuses on the history and definition of North European traditional knitwear based on the analysis of theoretical background, types, and characteristics of the knit patterns. Case studies were observed to show the application of knit patterns. The methods of the study used are preceding research along with research, collection, analysis of data, information from Korean and foreign literature, and Internet websites. During knitwear production, the two types of zippers were used in combination with four traditional Northern European knitwear Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy. The knitting techniques applied in the process were cable fisherman (5GG, SES 124CS) and Tubular Jacquard (3GG, 7GG, SES 122CS) for knitting machinery, and the technique of whole garment for hand knitting.
This research developed maternity wear designed with a focus on the essential functions necessary for working women and adaptable to their body changes during pregnancy. Through Martin's anthropometry for 201 pregnant women, the size specifications for maternity wear was determined and a dress form was proposed, in order to provide the manufacturer with reference data and a prototype to verify their products' fit and suitability. From a monthly analysis on the body measurements of pregnant women, significant monthly differences and after pregnancy were found in weight, chest girth, bust girth, under bust girth, waist girth, and hip girth. Dress form was designed based on the average body measurements of women in their 6th to 10th month of pregnancy. The standard dimensions in the 8th month were 90cm (chest), 94cm (bust), 86cm (under bust), 97cm(waist: most protruding part on the side), and 99cm (hip). Compared with Japan's MAT-9 (for nine months), chest girth was the same, while the Korean waist girth and hip girth were larger by 2cm and 3cm, respectively. The woven fabric blouse was evaluated as having the best appearance, while the knitted fabric one was judged as being more comfortable it terms of functionality. For the pants, the design details of the lowered waist and curved waist belt were more functional. The tailored jacket was the best design for working women in terms of both looks and functionality. To summarize, maternity wear for working women, unlike general maternity clothes, should be designed with consideration for the wearer's somatotype and activity. Elastic materials were appropriate for functionality and dealing with physical changes. With the increasing of working pregnant women, such trials are expected to continue in this research area in order to develop functional maternity wear with multi-purposes such as breast-feeding, wearability after delivery and shielding from microwave.
This study aimed to identify professional climbers'demand for movement functionality in pants worn for rock climbing and ice climbing. Data were collected through in-depth interviews with 12 professional climbers using a semi-constructed questionnaire. The respondents were instructor-level experts whose climbing ability ranged from 5.9 to 5.14 on the Yosemite Decimal System rating scale. The research findings were as follows. Experts wore different climbing pants depending on the type of climbing. For example, they mostly wore high-stretch, second layer pants for rock climbing, while layering first layer, second layer, and third layer pants for ice climbing. There were gender differences regarding the parts of the body in which climbers reported the most discomfort when wearing climbing pants; male climbers most commonly responded 'knees', 'inner thighs' and 'hips' while their female counterparts most commonly responded 'inner thighs', 'exposed back and waist' and 'hips' in that order. Differences were found between rock climbing and ice climbing in terms of wear and tear on pants, preferred fabric properties, and length of pants. Wear and tear was found mainly on the hips and knees of rock climbing pants and on the inner lower hem of ice climbing pants. Listed in the order of preference, the most preferred fabric properties were elasticity, light weight, and durability for rock climbing pants and elasticity, insulation, and protection against water and wind for ice climbing pants. Regarding the length of rock climbing pants, respondents preferred ankle-length pants and cropped pants that did not cover the feet. For ice climbing pants, respondents favored heel-length pants that prevented pieces of ice from entering the clothing. Men showed a high level of preference for ergonomically cut climbing pants. Respondents said the waistband on climbing pants should be simplified so as not to adversely affect climbing maneuvers.
This paper presents the fabrication and 3-point flexion testing of carbon fiber reinforced polymer (CFRP) composite face/aluminum honeycomb core sandwich panels. Specimen sandwich panels were fabricated with three honeycomb types (3.18 mm, 4.76 mm, and 6.35 mm cell size) and three panel radii (flat, r = 1.6 m, r = 1.3 m). The curved sandwiches were fabricated normally with the core in the W-direction. The tensile mechanical properties of the CFRP $2{\times}2$ twill fabric face laminate were evaluated (modulus, strength, Poisson's ratio). The measured values are comparable to other CFRP fabric laminates. The flat sandwich 3-point flexion test core shear strength results were 11-30% lower than the manufacturer published data; the test set-up used may be the cause. With a limited sample size, the 1.3 meter panel curvature appeared to cause a 0.8-3.8% reduction in ultimate core shear strength compared to a flat panel.
This study is to evaluate the objective sensibility of the commercial lining fabrics. Five kinds of the linings were collected by adding taffetas with four kinds of fibers (polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate) to one polyester stretch fabric. The six basic mechanical and hand properties were studied by using KES-FB system (Kawabata Evaluation System). The result of measuring the mechanical properties shows that polyester has high bending rigidity (B), that polyester-stretch has a high value of linearity of load-extension curve (LT), tensile energy (WT), tensile resilience (RT), and coefficient of friction (MIU) and a low value of bending rigidity(B), shear property, and geometrical roughness (SMD). The nylon has a high value of bending rigidity (B), shear property, and compression resilience (RC). The rayon has a high value of coefficient of friction (MIU) and linearity of compression-thickness curve (LC) and a low value of shear property, and the acetate has a low value of shear property. The result of hand value shows that polyester, nylon, and acetate are a high value of KOSHI (stiffness), NUMERI (smoothness), and FUKURAM (fullness & softness), and they feel stiff and massive, that rayon has a low value of NUMERI and FUKURAMI. The total result of hand value shows that polyester taffeta and polyester stretch fabric are about the same as the best material for the lining of a woman's dress for spring and summer, and the next thing is acetate, but nylon and rayon are somewhat inferior materials. This provides a fundamental data for the comfortable clothing production of a higher value-added product through the study on the mechanical and hand properties of the lining as well as the right side of fabrics.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.25
no.6
/
pp.1037-1045
/
2001
This research is done to design and manufacture prototype clean room garments to improve the product yield of the clean room processing. To assist the research, other papers and references on the same subject were collected for analysis. Also the researcher made interviews with the workers at the clean room. The prototype garments made for this project was compared against the commercially available clean room garments used in the industry. A set of test was conducted to measure particle release from the garments. The prototype clean room garments was manufactured after having considered all the aspects stated above, and tested for the level of particle release. The test subjects performed 4 different movements(marching, arms stretch, squat and rise, and jogging) while wearing the prototype garments and commercially available clean room garments. Particle counts produced by each movement were measured. The data collected was statistically analyzed. The followings are the result of the test. 1) Overall, the prototype garments yielded less particle release.(p<0.001) 2) It showed greatest difference of particle counts for jogging(p<0.001) and squat and rise(p<0.001). In the arms stretch test. the prototype garments was also more effective in controling the particle, however, in the marching test. no significant difference was detected. 3) The prototype garments had less particle release in upper(p<0.001), middle(p< 0.001), and lower level(p<0.01) than the commercially available clean room garments. Manufacturing a new fabric for the clean room processing is important, but this research proves that the design of the clean room garments also determines the efficiency garments in the particle control. Therefore the same fabric can perform differently according to how it is designed. Improving the design will also improve the 7article control and reduce the cost of research. Eventually, the manufacturers will increase the product yield.
It is difficult to educate the overall operation of public and private blockchains with different characteristics. Recently, most education for blockchain is targeted at public blockchains such as Bitcoin and Ethereum. However, in an actual business environment, a private blockchain such as HyperLedger Fabric is used because access to corporate data is controlled through user authentication. In the case of HLF-based education, it is necessary to understand various components that are not in the public blockchain, such as peers, orderers, and channels. In this paper, a lab framework for HLF is designed for an efficient and systematic understanding of the functions and operations. The framework consists of HLF network, chaincode, and decentralized software control functions. Through the framework, the network configuration, distribution and activation of chaincode, and dApp execution process were checked step by step, and it was very easy to understand the overall flow for blockchain services. In addition, it is expected that a systematic understanding of the overall flow will be possible even in future network expansion.
Tempered electronic contents have multiplied in last few years, thanks to the emergence of sophisticated artificial intelligence(AI) algorithms. Deepfakes (fake footage, photos, speech, and videos) can be a frightening and destructive phenomenon that has the capacity to distort the facts and hamper reputation by presenting a fake reality. Evidence of ownership or authentication of digital material is crucial for combating the fabricated content influx we are facing today. Current solutions lack the capacity to track digital media's history and provenance. Due to the rise of misrepresentation created by technologies like deepfake, detection algorithms are required to verify the integrity of digital content. Many real-world scenarios have been claimed to benefit from blockchain's authentication capabilities. Despite the scattered efforts surrounding such remedies, relatively little research has been undertaken to discover where blockchain technology can be used to tackle the deepfake problem. Latest blockchain based innovations such as Smart Contract, Hyperledger fabric can play a vital role against the manipulation of digital content. The goal of this paper is to summarize and discuss the ongoing researches related to blockchain's capabilities to protect digital content authentication. We have also suggested a blockchain (smart contract) dependent framework that can keep the data integrity of original content and thus prevent deepfake. This study also aims at discussing how blockchain technology can be used more effectively in deepfake prevention as well as highlight the current state of deepfake video detection research, including the generating process, various detection algorithms, and existing benchmarks.
Among the various decorative techniques in fashion design, this study is to study the decorative effect of the aesthetic finishing technique on fabric. Despite the recent expansion of the use of decorative techniques by aesthetic finishing of fabrics, most of the studies have focused on one or partial techniques, and there has been no part on the use of broad techniques or the application of overall design. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to collect the expression techniques of aesthetic finishing and its fashion cases that have been sporadically performed by examining the decorative techniques of fabric aesthetic finishing as a whole, and to provide practical data, help design thinking, and further contribute to the development of higher value-added products. To this end, this study was conducted in parallel with theoretical consideration and empirical research. First, through the analysis of decorative images and fashion cases examined based on theoretical considerations, six creative costumes were planned and produced by reorganizing them according to the flow of modern fashion using a design concept. As a result, it was confirmed that each aesthetic finishing technique is an effective decorative technique that is applied and harmonized to a part or all of the costume to create a new and unique surface effect and formative beauty, and to increase strong visual effects and luxury. Therefore, through this study, it is expected that it will help satisfy the aesthetic sense of consumers seeking high-end and individualization in the future. Therefore, in future research, it is necessary to expand and deal with the aesthetic finishing of fabrics in more depth, and it is expected that multifaceted research and development will continue.
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