• Title/Summary/Keyword: Cut back design

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A Comparative Study of Tight Skirt Sewing Methods -Focusing on the Sewing Methods Shown in Reference Text Books on Clothing Configuration and used in Domestic Consumer Products- (타이트스커트 봉제방법에 관한 비교 연구 -의복구성 교재와 국내 브랜드 제품을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Sun-Young;Choi, Young-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.11
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    • pp.1510-1519
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    • 2007
  • This comparative study analyzes and compares tight skirt sewing methods which are found in the clothing configuration reference text books available in contemporary universities and which are used in commercially-available domestic consumer products. The study samples included 15 text books and 12 tight skirt consumer products of different brands on sale at three department stores in Seoul each of which had a belt, a back-centered zipper, and back double slits. The findings of the study are summarized as follows: First, text books mainly show very basic sewing methods of using zippers on both sides of the straight-lined waist belt. This indicates that it is necessary for such methods to be complemented so that they cover a recent variety of designs, materials, and sewing machines. For consumer products, the main sewing method is to use a curved waist belt and a console zipper in silhouette running across half the hipbone. Second, consumer products employ three different types of cutting and sewing methods for putting an inseam on the center of the back slit part: to leave the whole inseam hemmed in the back center, to cut the left side of the inseam to the upper part of the back slit, and to cut the inseam to both the upper parts of the back slit. However, a method shown in most of the sampled text books is to cut the inseam of the back center to both the upper parts of the back slit. Third, the way of finishing a bottom edge hem in the text books is to do slip-stitch, herringbone stitch, and slinting hemming, in order after doing over-lock stitch, or to cut the hem on the bias and then slip-stitch, while for the consumer products the most frequently used sewing method is to finish the bottom edge hem by doing secoui-stitch. Finally, while in the text books the method of stitching darts and tucks is used for lining, the main lining method used in consumer products is to make tucks only. Also in the way of stitching the side seams of lining or the seams of the back center, there is a difference between the two sample groups of text books and the consumer products: while the former suggests using both open seams and over-lock stitch, the latter is found to finish the seams using an over-lock stitch only.

Back Analysis for the Properties of Cut and Cover Tunnel using Optimization Algorithms (최적화 알고리즘을 이용한 복개터널 물성값의 역해석)

  • Park, Byung-Soo;Jun, Sang-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.81-87
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    • 2008
  • This study is about the back analysis to optimize the uncertain parameters of geotechnical properties used in stability analysis of cut and cover tunnel. The Simplex algorithm, Powell algorithm, Rosenbrock algorithm, and Levenberg-Marquardt algorithm are applied for artificial problems of ground excavation. Furthermore, results are compared in the matter of the reliability of optimal solutions with a certain accuracy and the computation speed for evaluations of variables. As shown in results of numerical analysis, all of four algorithms are converged to exact solution satisfying the allowable criteria. And Levenberg-Marquardt's and Rosenbrock's algorithms are identified to be the more efficient methods in the evaluations of functions. After the back analysis for Poisson ratio and Young's modulus for cut and cover tunnel has been performed, design parameters have been correctly estimated and computation time has been improved while the number of measure points is increased.

A Study on Draping and Making up of Spencer Jacket in the Empire Style(1789-1820) (엠파이어 스타일 시대[1789-1820] 스펜서 재킷 제작에 관한 연구)

  • Choi Mi-Kyung;Jo Jin-Sook;Choi Jin-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.4 s.103
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    • pp.48-64
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

Characteristics of Negative Peak Wind Pressure acting on Tall Buildings with Step on Wall Surface

  • Yoshida, Akihito;Masuyama, Yuka;Katsumura, Akira
    • International Journal of High-Rise Buildings
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    • v.8 no.4
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    • pp.283-290
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    • 2019
  • Corner cut, corner chamfered or a building shape change are adopted in the design of tall buildings to achieve aerodynamic superiority as well as response reduction. Kikuchi et.al pointed out that large negative peak external pressures can appear near the inside corner of set-back low rise buildings. It is therefore necessary to pay attention to facade design around steps in building surfaces. Peak wind pressures for corner cut or corner chamfered configurations are given in the AIJ code. However, they cannot be applied where there are many variations of vertical and horizontal steps. There has been no previous systematic research on peak wind pressures around steps in building surfaces. In this study, detailed phenomenon of peak wind pressures around steps in buildings are investigated focusing on vertical and horizontal distances from the building's corner.

Design Process of Outdoor-Wear for Improvement of Comfort and Appearance (운동기능성과 심미성을 고려한 아웃도어웨어의 디자인개발연구)

  • 박우미;박춘덕;이귀례;나정은
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.8
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    • pp.29-39
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    • 2002
  • It was increased leisure hours by automation and computerization of industry. Many people spend on hours in enjoying leisure sports, and then. nowadays, Many women tend to prefer casual wear to formal suits. The purpose of this research was to design of outdoor-wear that improve the functional and aesthetic effects for clothing comfort. Total 4 design prototype consisting of jumper and slacks were developed for this research. Outdoor-wear design forced on armhole type of jumper and ease of the back crotch length of slacks to improve the functional and aesthetic effects. And Outdoor-wear design focused on color harmony to aesthetic effects. Ease amount and materials of jumper and slacks were controlled. Design A: Jumper was designed as dropped shoulder with set-in steeve and band collar, A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of outside seam line of slacks Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 7% of total crotch length: Design B 4DM cut pattern were applied to the jumper and slacks pattern. A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of inside seam line of thigh. Color of jumper and slacks were grey and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design C : Jumper was designed as the set in sleeve and hood. and A break- away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the ares of the armhole and elbow. Color of jumper and slacks were ivory and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design D : Jumper was designed as raglan sleeve. Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Total six females, ages 20-45, served as subjects for this research. Subjects have standard body type, generally, wearing 66 size of ready-to-wear clothing. The performance of the newly designed outdoor-wear was evaluated for their effectiveness in several aspects such as conditions of skin temperature, sensory evaluation of comfort during body movements, appearance and color harmony and aesthetic collar design. Design 3 was appeared to be the most positive in aesthetic evaluation and functional effects of design 2 of 4DM cut pattern was appeared to be beter than other designs.

A Comparative Study on the Sewing Teaching of 'Tight Skirts' in Teaching Materials of Clothes Configuration (의복구성 교재에 나타난 타이트스커트 봉제 방법에 관한 비교 연구)

  • Kim, Sun-Young;Choi, Young-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.8 s.108
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    • pp.113-122
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    • 2006
  • In this study, about forty teaching materials have been analyzed in order to examine tight skirt sewing methodtreated in basic process in a college and a fashion related educational institution. The study objects limited with a belt, back centered zipper, and back double slits on a tight skirt, and used fifteen suitable teaching materials in this study. The first study result appeared that every single teaching material suggested the different way of wick adhesion which is used in zipper slit, back slit, and belt part when the skit has been manufactured in order to do a form of clothes well. Secondly, it is the case of a back slit part used for the purpose of both functionality of action and decoration, and it is the section which varies a sewing and cutting way according to seam room width of a back middle seam. However, the majority of teaching materials appeared by being selecting the way how it had cut an inseam of the back center by the both upper part of back slit. Finally, the result showed that it mentioned mainly only both sided zipper sewing method if it seems to be easy to treat the majority in a basic process even though use of a console zipper Is general on a zipper sowing way recently for several years. Also, two forms are used in the belt manufacturing, and they are based with a waist line. However, the teaching materials that were used in this study presented only a manufacture way of the straight line on the waist belt.

A STUDY ON THE CUT-OFF CONDITION OF THE FUNDAMENTAL MODE IN MONOMODE FIBERS (단일 모드 FIBER에서 기본 MODE의 차단파장 조건에 관한 연구)

  • 김상준;김형태;김기대
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Communication Sciences Conference
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    • 1986.10a
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    • pp.23-27
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    • 1986
  • In this paper, The loss spectra between 1.1um and 1.7um were measured by cut-back method using tungsten-halogen lamp, a grating monochramator and an InGaAs detector. Typical fiber lengths measured were 30 meter. This result represent a further contribution to monomode fiber design and has been applied to come common profimes that are under study to optimize the fiber performance. It is very important that the parameter a. were designed more exactly and transmission of LPol mode in 1.55um. Therefore, Fiber designer have to be aware of the fact that this coupling loss and bending loss.

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Review of domestic and international sports brassieres (국내·외 스포츠 브래지어 생산실태)

  • Park, Jayoung;Jang, Jeongah
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.24 no.3
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    • pp.287-300
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    • 2016
  • The purpose of this study was to review materials that could provide basic data about sports brassieres. In this study, 486 sports brassieres were collected online from 31 brands between November 2015 and February 2016. First, the comparison of compression and encapsulation in sports brassieres identified many different styles. The characteristics of compression brassieres included a cut cup, the front center height of a full cup, round neckline, short front hem, all in one shoulder strap with a patterned racerback design, all in one closure, no wire, and separation cup styles. The characteristics of encapsulation brassieres included a V-shape neckline, mixed round shoulder strap design, back closure, and all in one cup. Second, the comparison of domestic and international sports brassieres sorted the items differently. The characteristics of domestic products included compression brassieres, non-cut cup, the front center height of a full cup, round neckline, short front hem, an all in one shoulder strap with a patterned round design, all in one closure, no wire, and a separation cup. The characteristics of international products included a cut up, racerback shoulder strap design, and an all in one cup. Third, the analysis of domestic and international sports brassieres sizes found that six options were available for domestic compression sports brassieres and nine sizes were available for international products. Domestic encapsulation sports brassieres offered five under bust sizes and five cup sizes. International products offered eight under bust sizes and sixteen cup sizes.

Improvement Effect on Design Parameters by Pressure Grouting Applied on Micro-piling for Slope Reinforcement (가압식 마이크로파일로 보강된 사면의 설계인자 개량효과)

  • Hong, Won-Pyo;Han, Hyun-Hee;Choi, Yong-Ki;Hong, Ik-Pyo
    • Proceedings of the Korean Geotechical Society Conference
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    • 2005.03a
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    • pp.163-170
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    • 2005
  • In this paper, the rock bolts, soil nails with filling grout and the micro-piling with injecting grout by pressure were applied for the stabilization of the cut slopes consisting of sedimentary rocks, igneous rocks and metamorphic rocks respectively. The field measurements and 3-D FEM analyses to find out mobilized tensile stresses of the grouted-reinforcing members installed in the drilled holes were executed on each site. With assuming the increments of the cohesive strength in the improved ground, the back analysis using direct calibration approach of changing the elastic modulus of the ground was used to find out the improved elastic modulus which yields the same tensile stresses from field measurements. The results of back analysis show that the elastic modulus of the improved ground were 4 to 6 times as large as the elastic modulus of original ground. Consequently, the design for slope reinforcement to be more rational, it is proposed that not only the improved cohesive strength is to be used in the incremental ranges on well-known previous proposed data, but also the increased elastic modulus which is about 5 times as large as the original elastic modulus is to be considered in design.

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A Design of Programmable Low Pass Filter to Reduce the ZCP Estimation Error at High Speed BLDC Sensorless Drive (BLDC 고속 센서리스 구동의 ZCP 추정 오차 저감을 위한 Programmable Low Pass Filter 설계)

  • Seo, Eunjeong;Lee, Kangseok;Lee, Wootaik
    • The Transactions of The Korean Institute of Electrical Engineers
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    • v.63 no.1
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    • pp.35-41
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    • 2014
  • This paper presents a design method of programmable low pass filter(PLPF) which reduce an estimation error of a zero crossing point(ZCP) for a high speed brushless DC(BLDC) motor drive. BLDC motor sensorless drive is possible by estimation of ZCP. The ZCP estimated by detecting a change of back-EMF polarity has the estimation error because noises exist on the measured back-EMF. Therefore a calculated commutation timing using the ZCP is inaccurate. And the inexact commutation timing leads to ripples of 3-phase current and degradation of drive performance. This paper proposes the design method of the PLPF to overcome these problems. First, a speed calculated a inaccurate period of the ZCP is analyzed in the frequency domain. Then, the PLPF that has varying cut-off frequency according to change of the speed is designed on the frequency analysis result. The proposed method is verified by the experiment.