The purpose of this research was intended to investigate drag queens' and drag kings' gender identity not only as a comic and desexualized drag borrowing external characteristics of the opposite sex but also as the subject visualizing and performing' the third sex'. It also aimed to examine formative aesthetic characteristics and aesthetical value of drag queen's and drag king's fashion and to confirm the functions of drag queen's and drag kins's fashion to establish, visualize and Perform the discordant sex. For this process, research steps were as follows : 1. Understanding drag, drag queen and drag king in social, psychological context as well as in gender context. 2. Finding visualized forms which drag performance interchange with mass media 3. Analyzing similarities and differences between drag queen's fashion and drag king's fashion. 4. Examining the aesthetical characteristics and the value of drag queen's and drag king's fashion. The results of characteristics of drag queen's fashion could be categorized into stereotype, mimicry, kitch, inconsistency and commercialism. And the characteristics of drag king's fashion could be divided into reality, self-consciousness, mimicry, inconsistency, subversion and multiplicity. Drag queens create plausible impressions of feminity through the use of wigs, dresses, jewelry, makeup, hormones and through &role Playing&. Similarly drag kings produce a plausible masculinity taking gay male aesthetic using suits, crotch stuffers, facial hair, and greased hair. Male and female impersonation produce very different notions of gender performance for male and female embodiment. Drag kings' performance of masculinity demands authentic property of bodies so rather nonperformative, while drag queens' performance of femininity depends on more visible and theatrical fashion.
The purpose of this study was to develop the pattern of bodysuit and to identify the wear fitness of it The methods of statistical analysis applied to the study were ANOVA and cluster analysis. The materials used in making bodysuit were Nylon/Polyurethane, lace, power net, binding tape, and hook eye. The try-on test was administered in two aspects ; (1) the comparison of anthropometric data before and after trying on the experimentally constructed bodysuit with those of marketing bodysuit, (2) the sensory evaluation to estimate the wear fitness in terms of appearance and motion function. The conclusions obtained are as follows ; 1. In the survey of wearing state, 52.2% of respondents had experience of wearing bodysuit. 60.6% of them responded to the item, “well-balanced body” in the question about the purpose of wearing it. 55.7% considered the item, “feel choky in the chest” as uncomfortable point in putting on bodysuit. 48.3% felt the portion of crotch drawn above in taking exercise or behaving routinely in everyday life. 2. As for the characteristics of the bodysuit design, the scooped neckline and horizontal outline without wire in lower bust was used, the adjust point being located right above the perineum point, and the length of bodysuit is as far as trochanteric point. 3. In comparing anthropometric data of the subjects, there was significant difference in the height of lower bust the distance around abdomen, and the length of bust point(right, left) between the experimentally constructed bodysuit and the marketing bodysuit. 4. Concerning the results of the try-on test in appearance, the estimates of expert panel, which were in agreement with those of subjects in mean value and composite reliability coefficient, showed that the pattern fitness of experimentally designed bodysuit was higher than that of marketing bodysuit. 5. To take try-on test in motion function, motion was classified the five steps. The results of the test showed that experimentally designed bodysuit was fitter in each steps of motion than marketing bodysuit.
This study aims to examine the current state of wearing working clothes for the workers who work in Electric Technology Division, Korea Railroad Corporation, to identify inconveniences and problems in relation to the working clothes, and based on the examination, to find a way to improve them, creating a design of summer working clothes that will have more advanced functionalities including activity adaptability and comfort. Survey was conducted through direct observation and interview for Electric Railway Power Team. A total of 352 copies were collected and analyzed. Based on the results of questionnaire, an experimental clothes, the functionality of which has improved in terms of design, material, and patterns, was created. The followings are the results of the study. Easy activity, design, and comfort are required as functions of working clothes. In design related questions, the survey shows high dissatisfaction in the color of existing working clothes, and preferred colors are dark blue and gray. With regard to the method of zipping up the front side, zippers are preferred. Although many pockets on the existing working clothes have high satisfaction, dissatisfaction to pocket format is high. In material related questions, lower dissatisfaction is indicated for the sense of touch, ventilation and sweat absorption. It is shown that the areas frequently polluted include the lower part of pocket, the edges of sleeves and elbow areas on the jacket. The frequently polluted area of the trousers include knee areas, the edges of pants and buttocks. With regard to the areas where the workers felt discomfort when motion, discomfort is highly indicated with armpits and back on the jacket. Also discomfort is highly indicated with crotch, buttocks and knee areas on the trousers. In material related questions, lower dissatisfaction is indicated for the sense of touch, ventilation, sweat absorption.
The purpose of this study is to grasp the inconvenience and problems with caregivers' uniforms and preferred designs by examining the wearing conditions of these uniforms in medical welfare facilities for the aged. To attain this purpose, a questionnaire was completed by direct observation and by interviewing caregivers in specialized hospitals for the aged and those engaged in nursing and then a preliminary examination was carried out. The questionnaire was given to 228 caregivers. Following are the results of this research. It was found that the caregivers in medical welfare facilities for the aged were women in their 50s, wearing primarily a size 77 uniform. It was revealed that when the caregivers bathe patients, they usually get wet from the knees to the bottom part of their pants and many of them (61.2%) change both their tops and pants after giving a bath. The caregivers said that every part of the tops of existing uniforms, except the armpits, were a little large or too long. It turned out that the area of the armpits, the front buttons, crotch, hip area, and knees are mostly the areas that readily wear out in the uniforms. It was reported that the uncomfortable parts in the uniforms a.e the armpits, shoulders, and the front adjusting parts of the tops and the hips, thighs, and the crotches of the pants. The material for the uniforms have problems in ventilation, fluffing, absorption of sweat, and permeation of odor.
This study was aimed to find out the problems of wearing flame-proof clothing and to analytically assess functional working-clothes, thus to propose a new design. We carried out a questionnaire with workers in the field and evaluated the facility for wearing, the sensation of wearing and clothing microclimate in the environmental chamber. We found out the problems were in the parts of neck, armpits, armhole, sleeve, crotch and suspenders. Thermal sensation, wet sensation and comfort sensations were evaluated to be 'hot', 'wet' and near to discomfort', respectively. Therefore, improvement of movement and air permeability is needed. If we can add gusset on armpit for air permeability, this gusset will enable to enlarge the surface in armpit area and finally give a movement efficiency. We suggested several new partly modified design for flame-proof clothing which can be applied to other protective clothing for improvement. This must be further considered in the ergonomic evaluation of new proposed functional working-clothes as well as in the suggestion of design.
As directly imported apparel brands are actively entering the domestic market, studies of the marketing aspects of these imported apparel products and their overall consumption trend have been done. However, studies of whether are not the directly imported apparel products provide Korean consumers with an appropriate fit are not as common. Therefore, this study investigates the satisfaction with and problems associated with the fit along with the recognition of and preference for directly imported US apparel brands. 100 female college students who purchased directly imported US apparel brands participated in a survey. The results of this survey showed that their recognition of, preference for, possession rate of and satisfaction with the directly imported US apparel brands tend to be high. The major purchasing motivations were the excellent 'design' and 'color' of the products. The subjects reported that they were satisfied with the quality of 'materials' and 'sewing condition'. However, they were not satisfied with the 'comfort' or the 'size'. Their level of satisfaction with the fit of these products differed depending on the specific item. Their level of satisfaction with the fit of T-shirts and knits was high, whereas the level for pants was relatively low. They complained mostly about the sleeve length and garment length of upper-body garments and coats. They were not satisfied with how the pants fit. The areas of dissatisfaction regarding the pants were the waist girth, the crotch length and the pants length.
This study aims to compare the ease of men's slim pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The study selected four educational materials and one industrial pattern of slim pants for a total of five items. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing and opacity, and a comparison was performed regarding the clothing pressure when the virtual model was standing and walking. The results of our comparison of the patternmaking for slim pants showed that pattern C pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while B pants showed no ease. The C and E pants also had the most ease on the hip measurement. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, E, B, and C, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem when standing in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. While walking, the stress appeared to be different for the left and right parts of the body, and the most significant difference was observed on the thigh area.
This study was to develope the pesticide-proof clothes(PPC) for fruit-grower which has been well known over applied agricultural chemicals. The ergonomic evaluation of PPC were tested in two ways. Male adults volunteered the tests to evaluate the safety to pesticide in the field and the thermal comforts in the climate-chamber($30^{\circ}C$, 60%R.H.). PPC were made of 4 different fabrics. Two of them were on the market(coated non-woven and coated nylon). Others were water-repellent treatment and coated waterproof film by developed polyester. The field study was conducted for farmers growing apples to evaluate pesticide exposure. In this experiment, we collected data with patch test on the head, chest, back, right upperarm, right forearm, left thigh and left calf. From the results, the developed PPC showed the more excellent comfort than an existing PPC with nylon coated polyurethane. But the developed PPC of water-repellent fabric was penetrated into the PPC. Therefore, we designed the functional pesticide-proof clothes of 2 different developed polyester fabrics(water-repellent treatment in chest, abdomen, the lower of back, waist, and calf; coated waterproof film in head, shoulder, the upper of back, the crotch, hip, upper arm and thigh).
It is thought that a composition of trousers is related to fabrics with single breadth. Therefore, trousers are designed with pattern using this fabrics with single breadth. However, in the old pattern of trousers, the breadth of 33cm-35cm was not considered in designing patterns. In this context, deciding which pattern design is better is not easy as there are a variety of estimation methods. So in this study, standardization of drafting is pursued by an objective pattern design. For this, a base angle of the trouser closely relating to a form and function was measured and using the height and the base angle, a trouser pattern design was tried. For a measurement of the base angle, 5 subject were selected. They are 25-29 year-old male graduates with fine physical standard. The base angle was measured with symphysis pubis point as a standard when subjects sat with their legs crossed, when they stood with their legs open (not forced artificially) and when they laid down with their legs open. The distance between a knee inside joint and knees was measured three times and the resultant value was used for the pattern design. For a design of trousers, the height was applied and the base angle was fixed. As a pattern drawing, using the height, a base angle and circumference of the hip, a trouser was designed. The production method for the pattern design is as follow: (1) The length formula, is height + $\frac{height}{2}$ (2) The hip girth formula is $\frac{hipgirth}{2}$ - $\frac{hipgirth}{20}$(3) A crotch angle is fixed at $72^{\circ}$. (4) The ratio of outer leg length to leg width is 5 : 8. (5) The component ratio of the upper outer leg length to the pant length is 5 : 8. (6) The ratio of the division point of front right inner leg length and left inner width to upper outer leg length is 5 : 8.
The goal of this study is to support the children's pants construction methods that secure clothing size and fit appropriateness through proposed improvements of denim pants construction method focusing on 4-year-old boys. Depths interview on the actual condition, measurements and calculations for positions and ease of the clothing points corresponding to the body points actually worn were conducted for 47 denim pants of nine boys. "Characteristics of the areas worn" and "physical characteristics of lower body" were analyzed, and improvements of 4-year-old children's denim pants construction method were proposed. As the results, the different figures in "characteristics of the areas worn" between the existing children's pants construction methods and children's actual wearing habits were found, and identification of distinct children's lower body from adults' supports that we should avoid tracing adults' methods without reasons. Children's pants construction method on basis of actual wearing should be devised to solve fit problems. Improvements of children's method were proposed such as ease of girth by different area worn, ease of "elastic waist girth", the difference between "elastic waist girth" and "pattern waist girth", and the difference between "pattern waist girth" and "pattern hip girth" as considerations of pants girth items, and appropriate position "clothing waist girth" "pants hip length" level, "pants crotch length" level, "clothing knee length" level, and "pants outside length" level for pattern making as considerations of clothing length items.
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