• 대한지리학회지
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.318-339
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• 1994

본 연구는 우리나라에서 거의 소멸된 면화재배의 지역적인 축소 과정을 확인하고, 현재 농촌에서 이루어지는 면화재배의 의미를 파악하였다. 해방 이후 우리나라의 면방직 공 업은 원면도입으로 해외 원료 의존형 산업이 되었다. 환율정책으로 국내면 가격이 미국산 원조면보다 비싸지고, 정부의 식량증산 위주의 농업정책, 유통구조 등으로 인해 국내면의 재 배면적이 감소되기 시작하였다. 국내 면 재배 면적 감소의 지역적인 과정은 일차적으로 기 후조건이 면화재배에 불리한 지역에서 먼저 나타나 식량 밭작물로 대체되었고, 이후 재배 유인력이 더욱 약해짐에 따라 재배 발원지를 제외한 다른 지역에서는 거의 소멸되고 있었 다. 현재 농촌에서 면화는 이불솜 을 위한 자가 소비용, 식용, 약용외에 다른 작물의 생산성 을 높이기 위한 부작물로서 재배되고 있음이 확인되었다. 재배방법은 종래와 큰 차이가 없 이 행해지고 있었으며 노동집약적으로 생산되고 있다. 농민의 면화에 대한 애착이 강하고, 국내면으로 만든 이불솜을 선호하는 소비자들의 수요가 아직 있음이 확인되어, 정부의 정책 적인 배려와 함께 시장이 확보될 경우 국내면이 앞으로도 재배될 수 있는 가능성을 보여주 고 있었다.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.23-25
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• 2010

Archaeological evidence shows that cotton fibres of the genus Gossypium were first used for textile production at Mehrgarh, Pakistan in the Neolithic period ($6^{th}$ millenium BC). Eventually the cotton plant and textiles found their way to Egypt and through there, to Greece. However, the chronological origins of the cultivation and/or use of cotton fibres in textile production in ancient Greece are ambiguous. The main sources of information are ancient written texts and excavated textile finds. Both indicate that the introduction of cotton in Greece can be placed in the mid-first millenium BC. However, it is not clear whether the cultivation of the plant and consequently the production of cotton textiles was established in that period or whether another cotton species was produced and used locally in Greece or whether isolated examples of cotton textiles had been imported in Greece before the cotton plant. A more comprehensive analytical study of surviving textile finds coupled with archaeological research for plant production and cultivation would provide the answer to these questions.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.151-158
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• 1997

This study was to find out the differences of the characteristics on chitosan from source, the crab and the shrimp. Chitosan was depolymerized in NaBO₃·4H₂O under various reaction time and temperature. 4 Chosen chitosan dissolved in acetic acid and treated to cotton fabrics. The cotton fabrics treated with chitosan showed an exellent antibacterial activity irrespective of the viscosity. Stiffness of the treated cotton fabrics increased 3∼8 times than untreated cotton fabric, it gives harshness to treated cotton fabrics, it gives harshness to treated cotton fabrics like linen. Air permeability of the treated cotton fabrics increased. Stiffness and air permeability are respective to viscosity of the chitosan.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.826-834
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• 2003

This research is to reveal an aspect of costume culture and a phase of the cloths in the relationship of the Chosun dynasty, by considering the exported goods from the Chosun dynasty of the trading goods derived by the trade diplomacy between the two countries in the Chosun dynasty-Japan relationship in the 15th and 16th. The research findings, by analyzing various literatures and related documents, follow. The research results are as follow. The exchange was the form of presenting a return present in return for a tribute to the Chosun dynasty from the Japanese envoy, which has a polycentric characteristic. Pusanpo, Naipo, and Yumpo were designated as the open ports, which played a pivotal role in the Korea-Japan exchange. The imported goods were somok, peppers, drug-stuffs, gold, bronze, sulfur, etc. The exported goods were books and cloths, such as hemp cloths, cotton cloths, silk, etc. The majority of exported goods was cloths, particularly cotton cloths. Meanwhile, in the 15th and the 16th century, with expanding of active trade towards Japan, the amount of export increased rapidly. As a result of the increase of exporting cotton cloths, the raw cottons production was increased and cotton cloth manufacturing was developed. However, it also expanded a dual structure of cotton cloths between the cotton cloths for exports and the cotton cloths for domestic markets. This dual structure of cotton cloth was lead to the deterioration of cotton cloths and had an effect on the price increases of domestic markets.

• 복식
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• 제53권7호
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• pp.37-45
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• 2003

This study is to research the changing trends in the trading goods and the cause of the change in the early Chosun dynasty and to find out the influence that the export goods had on the Chosun society. This research demonstrated the costume culture of the early Chosun was affected by the trading trends. The export items of Chosun showed differences in chronological order. They changed from hemp cloth to cotton cloth. The cause of such change in the export items was due to the change in the amount of demand and supply, to products of Chosun. and to social factors. Looking at the amount and items of the export goods to Japan, the amount was huge and the number of trade was a lot. There were several influences that the exporting cotton cloth to Japan had on Chosun's costume culture. First, the export caused the growth of cotton industry through the reinforcement policy. Next, it made the amount of national deposit of cotton cloth exhausted as a result of the increase in the amount of the exporting cotton. It also made worse the dual distribution structure of cotton cloth and the leaning toward bad cotton cloth. And in consequence of the connection between rich merchants and politicians, these social phenomena became worse and worse. And these facts demonstrate that the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty was affected by the trade between Chosun and Japan. Therefore, to better understand the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty, I propose to consider the consequences resulted from the trade with Japan.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.153-162
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• 2009

This paper introduces the probable regional and long distance trade of cotton goods among the pre-Hispanic Mesoamericans during the Classic (A.D. 200-900) period through the comparison of the available documentary sources. Based on the ethnohistoric data and the archaeological evidences it was found that cotton was used throughout the Mesoamerica by the elite ruling class. However, because cotton could not be grown at elevations above 6,000 feet it was obvious that nations such as Teotihuacan which flourished in the highland of present day Mexico City had to import cotton from the tropical coastal hotlands either through trade or tribute. Several ethnohistorical and archaeological data suggest that urban center in highland Mexico had people employed in weaving the textiles rather than cultivating or spinning cotton. Archaeological evidences such as the workshops used by the craft specialists seemed to be associated with weaving of cotton. Because of the similarity in climatic conditions for marine shells and cotton cultivation, Kolb's model seems to be applicable to the cotton trade of the classic Teotihuacan. Based on Kolb's model, it could be hypothesized that Teotihuacan-Kaminaljyyu-Maya was the indirect trade route connecting the Basin of Mexico and the Mayan regions.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.471-482
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• 2016

This study investigated the characteristics of cotton production of Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Yeongsan River compared with that of Gurye-gun, Seomjingang River in modern times. To do this, research method was both literature and fieldwork research, results were as follows. First, as for cotton fiber cultivation in Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Chinese cotton (在來綿) has been cultivated during Japanese Colonial era unlike Gurye-gun. Especially, Yellow cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in Hwasungun. Second, as for spinning in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun, some of cotton spinning process have been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool since Japanese colonial era. Third, the loom types also, like spinning tools, have been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in Damyang-gun, Hwasungun and Gurye-gun. Chemical dyeing with chemical dyestuff also has been done since Japanese Colonial era. Fourth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton production have been reduced in both Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun. For Damyang-gun, this has been connected with bamboo craft since the Joseon Dynasty period. So, Damyang-gun has more concentrated on bamboo craft than cotton production. For Hwasun-gun, since Japanese Colonial era, sericulture has been very important. So, Hwasun-gun also has more concentrated on sericulture than cotton production. The main reason to discontinue cotton production in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun was related to the local choice like economic added value.

• 한국작물학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.39-43
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• 1995

남부지방의 목화 재배체계 및 안전다수확을 위한 지초자과를 얻고자 Vinyl 피복과 무피복 재배아래서 재식밀도 차이에 따른 생육, 수량 및 면모의 발생등을 검토하였던 바 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. 경장, 결과피수, 삭수$m^2$당 삭수 등의 모든 형질이 Vinyl피복구에서 우수하였으며$m^2$당 삭수는 Vinyl피복구에서나 무피복구에서나 70${\times}$10cm재식에서 가장 우수하였다. 2. 실면수량과 1삭실면중 역시 Vinyl피복구에서 높았으며 실면수량은 Vinyl피복구와 무피복구 모두 70${\times}$10cm재식에서 가장 우수하였다. 3. 섬유장, 섬유비율 모두 Vinyl피복의 결과가 인정되었으며 섬유장은 주문거리가 넓을수록 길었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.844-859
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• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• 한국작물학회지
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.217-223
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• 1992

우리나라 남부지방 목화 재배농가의 소득증대를 위한 보리-목화 2모작작부체계개선을 위하여 작물시험장 목포지장에서 1963～67년 실시한 목화 맥후작육묘이식재배시험의 주요결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 쌀보리 품종 도원 후작으로 목화 목포004를 5월 10일 묘상파종 6월10～20일 본포에 정식할 때 쌀보리 후작 6월10일 목화 직파재배표준수량 105kg / 10a, 소면수량 40 kg/ 10a에 비하여 실면 80～83% 증수, 소면 79～82% 증수되었다. 공시품종중에서 목포지장에서 육성한 목포004가 수원17호와 Paymaster에 비하여 증수되었다. 2. 쌀보리 후작 목화 목포005 육묘이식재배에서 표준비(N 4.0-P$_2$O$_{5}$ 3.9-K$_2$O 5.3kg /10a)구 실면수량 146～169kg /10a, 소면수량 54～63kg /10a 비하여 2배비구 실면 3～11% 증수, 소면 2～9% 증수되었다. 목화 어린모 재식거리는 표준비, 2배비 모두 휴폭 70cm 주간 20cm구에서 가장 다수확되었다. 3. 쌀보리-목화 2모작재배에서 단립면적당 총수확량은 쌀보리 세조파(30$\times$15cm)재배후 목화를 육묘이식(5월10일 묘상파종 6월10～20일 이식)재배할때에 쌀보리 347～354kg / 10a, 목화 156～155kg / 10a 총수확량 503～509kg / 10a으로 5월1일 파종 목화 단작재배 실면 151kg / 10a에 비하여 월등히 증수되었으며 총조수익도 48% 증익되었다. 쌀보리 조파재배(60$\times$12cm)후 6월10일 목화 직파재배 총수확량 442kg / 10a에 비하여도 월등히 증수되어 30% 증익되었다. 쌀보리 간작으로 목화를 재배할 때에는 2～11% 증익되었다. 쌀보리 조파재배(60$\times$12cm) 간작으로 목화1조파구는 다른 목화 간작재배구들에 비하여 5～9% 증익되었다.다.