• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.318-339
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• 1994

U.S. had given large amount of cotton to Korea as food aid program since 1945. This cotton aid had negative impact on cotton culture in Korean agriculture. Korean government used counterparts funds (sale proceeds of food aid) not for investment to agriculture sector, but for military budgets. And food aid on program type had influenced general economic policies, which neglected agricultural sector too. Anti-agricultural policy which was helped by U.S. food aid, had caused cotton cultivator an economic loss. So this economic loss had made many farmers abandon cotton culture. But in our times, cotton is cultivated for the purpose of domestic consumption in a few rural villages. The purposes of this study are 1) to analyze the process of spatial reduction of cotton culture since 1945 in regional contexts in Korea, and 2) to identify the function and meaning of cotton culture which does not pay off in agricultural region. Materials for acreage of cotton culture are acquired through the agricultural statistical year book(1952-1989) and census. To clarify the meanings of cotton culture, field survey are conducted in a rural village which is identified as only one where cotton was cultivated in 1993. In these contexts, this study has come to the following conclusions. In the period of under the rule of Japanese Imperialism (1910-1945), G. arboreum, species of cotton which was traditionally cultivated since 1364, had been driven out. And G. hirustun species, which is suitable for the production of highly qualified textile, has been hierarchically diffused by policy. In these period, regional structure of Korean agriculture was reorganized for the provision with food to Japan. Crops leading this dependent spatial structure were rice and cotton. So agricultural region, specialized with cotton, were distributed in the hinterland of the area which is specialized with rice. U.S. cotton aid to Korea began in 1947. U.S. took an interest in agricultural export because of her domestic surplus of cotton. Cotton aid is one mechanism by which U.S government developed agricultural market in recipient countries, Specially in the exchange rates, up-valuation of won to the U.S. dollars made domestic cotton more expensive than cotton imported, Production cost of domestic cotton is higher than Government's purchasing price of cotton which was also more expensive than price of cotton imported. Korean farmer could not help abandoning the cultivation of cotton, and this gave rise to spatial reduction of cotton culture. Spatially, cotton culture was abandoned in early stage of reduction in regions where stand at a disadvantage climatically, and in next stage in regions where other up-land crops which paid off in urban market, eg, fruits, could be cultivated. In the stage of extinction, cotton was cultivated only in area where G. hirustun species was originated in Korean peninsula. This region is not only suitable climatically for cotton culture, but is far away from urban market. Use of cotton produced is not for spinning, but for fillings of comforter. The main purpose of cotton culture in rural village is not for cotton yields, but for increase of production of seasame, which is grown together with cotton as mixed crops. Cotton product are used for domestic consumption and sold out to gin house. Though cotton culture is not paid off, farmer wanted to cultivate continuously for the cultural purpose, and they wanted the cotton culture promotion policy with the goverment subsidy.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.23-25
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• 2010

Archaeological evidence shows that cotton fibres of the genus Gossypium were first used for textile production at Mehrgarh, Pakistan in the Neolithic period ($6^{th}$ millenium BC). Eventually the cotton plant and textiles found their way to Egypt and through there, to Greece. However, the chronological origins of the cultivation and/or use of cotton fibres in textile production in ancient Greece are ambiguous. The main sources of information are ancient written texts and excavated textile finds. Both indicate that the introduction of cotton in Greece can be placed in the mid-first millenium BC. However, it is not clear whether the cultivation of the plant and consequently the production of cotton textiles was established in that period or whether another cotton species was produced and used locally in Greece or whether isolated examples of cotton textiles had been imported in Greece before the cotton plant. A more comprehensive analytical study of surviving textile finds coupled with archaeological research for plant production and cultivation would provide the answer to these questions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.151-158
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• 1997

This study was to find out the differences of the characteristics on chitosan from source, the crab and the shrimp. Chitosan was depolymerized in NaBO₃·4H₂O under various reaction time and temperature. 4 Chosen chitosan dissolved in acetic acid and treated to cotton fabrics. The cotton fabrics treated with chitosan showed an exellent antibacterial activity irrespective of the viscosity. Stiffness of the treated cotton fabrics increased 3∼8 times than untreated cotton fabric, it gives harshness to treated cotton fabrics, it gives harshness to treated cotton fabrics like linen. Air permeability of the treated cotton fabrics increased. Stiffness and air permeability are respective to viscosity of the chitosan.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.826-834
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• 2003

This research is to reveal an aspect of costume culture and a phase of the cloths in the relationship of the Chosun dynasty, by considering the exported goods from the Chosun dynasty of the trading goods derived by the trade diplomacy between the two countries in the Chosun dynasty-Japan relationship in the 15th and 16th. The research findings, by analyzing various literatures and related documents, follow. The research results are as follow. The exchange was the form of presenting a return present in return for a tribute to the Chosun dynasty from the Japanese envoy, which has a polycentric characteristic. Pusanpo, Naipo, and Yumpo were designated as the open ports, which played a pivotal role in the Korea-Japan exchange. The imported goods were somok, peppers, drug-stuffs, gold, bronze, sulfur, etc. The exported goods were books and cloths, such as hemp cloths, cotton cloths, silk, etc. The majority of exported goods was cloths, particularly cotton cloths. Meanwhile, in the 15th and the 16th century, with expanding of active trade towards Japan, the amount of export increased rapidly. As a result of the increase of exporting cotton cloths, the raw cottons production was increased and cotton cloth manufacturing was developed. However, it also expanded a dual structure of cotton cloths between the cotton cloths for exports and the cotton cloths for domestic markets. This dual structure of cotton cloth was lead to the deterioration of cotton cloths and had an effect on the price increases of domestic markets.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.7
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• pp.37-45
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• 2003

This study is to research the changing trends in the trading goods and the cause of the change in the early Chosun dynasty and to find out the influence that the export goods had on the Chosun society. This research demonstrated the costume culture of the early Chosun was affected by the trading trends. The export items of Chosun showed differences in chronological order. They changed from hemp cloth to cotton cloth. The cause of such change in the export items was due to the change in the amount of demand and supply, to products of Chosun. and to social factors. Looking at the amount and items of the export goods to Japan, the amount was huge and the number of trade was a lot. There were several influences that the exporting cotton cloth to Japan had on Chosun's costume culture. First, the export caused the growth of cotton industry through the reinforcement policy. Next, it made the amount of national deposit of cotton cloth exhausted as a result of the increase in the amount of the exporting cotton. It also made worse the dual distribution structure of cotton cloth and the leaning toward bad cotton cloth. And in consequence of the connection between rich merchants and politicians, these social phenomena became worse and worse. And these facts demonstrate that the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty was affected by the trade between Chosun and Japan. Therefore, to better understand the costume culture of the early Chosun dynasty, I propose to consider the consequences resulted from the trade with Japan.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.153-162
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• 2009

This paper introduces the probable regional and long distance trade of cotton goods among the pre-Hispanic Mesoamericans during the Classic (A.D. 200-900) period through the comparison of the available documentary sources. Based on the ethnohistoric data and the archaeological evidences it was found that cotton was used throughout the Mesoamerica by the elite ruling class. However, because cotton could not be grown at elevations above 6,000 feet it was obvious that nations such as Teotihuacan which flourished in the highland of present day Mexico City had to import cotton from the tropical coastal hotlands either through trade or tribute. Several ethnohistorical and archaeological data suggest that urban center in highland Mexico had people employed in weaving the textiles rather than cultivating or spinning cotton. Archaeological evidences such as the workshops used by the craft specialists seemed to be associated with weaving of cotton. Because of the similarity in climatic conditions for marine shells and cotton cultivation, Kolb's model seems to be applicable to the cotton trade of the classic Teotihuacan. Based on Kolb's model, it could be hypothesized that Teotihuacan-Kaminaljyyu-Maya was the indirect trade route connecting the Basin of Mexico and the Mayan regions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.471-482
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• 2016

This study investigated the characteristics of cotton production of Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Yeongsan River compared with that of Gurye-gun, Seomjingang River in modern times. To do this, research method was both literature and fieldwork research, results were as follows. First, as for cotton fiber cultivation in Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Chinese cotton (在來綿) has been cultivated during Japanese Colonial era unlike Gurye-gun. Especially, Yellow cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in Hwasungun. Second, as for spinning in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun, some of cotton spinning process have been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool since Japanese colonial era. Third, the loom types also, like spinning tools, have been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in Damyang-gun, Hwasungun and Gurye-gun. Chemical dyeing with chemical dyestuff also has been done since Japanese Colonial era. Fourth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton production have been reduced in both Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun. For Damyang-gun, this has been connected with bamboo craft since the Joseon Dynasty period. So, Damyang-gun has more concentrated on bamboo craft than cotton production. For Hwasun-gun, since Japanese Colonial era, sericulture has been very important. So, Hwasun-gun also has more concentrated on sericulture than cotton production. The main reason to discontinue cotton production in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun was related to the local choice like economic added value.

• KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.39-43
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• 1995

In the culture of Vinyl mulching and Non mulching, growth, yield, and cotton hair's growth are studied at the different planting density to get a basic material for cotton culture and high yield bumper crop in the region of the South. And the results are following. Vinyl mulching is the best one at the strength, the number of boll bearing branches, the num-ber of bolls, the number of bolls per $m^2$ and all the other characters. Vinyl mulching and Non mulching have the greatest number of bolls per $m^2$ at the planting density of 70${\times}$10cm. Vinyl mulching has the highest seed cotton yield and the highest seed cotton yield per boll. Especially when planted at the density of 70${\times}$l0cm, Vinyl mulching and Non mulching have the highest seed cotton yield. Vinyl mulching's value is accepted in fiber length and lint percentage, the wider spacing in the row is, the longer fiber length is.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.844-859
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• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.217-223
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• 1992

Cotton has been an important fiber crop in Korea for a long time. The objective of the study was to investigate the effects of planting and transplanting dates, transplanting density and fertilizer application rate on seed cotton and lint yields, and gross income for barley-cotton double cropping in southern part of Korea. Transplanting culture of upland cotton cultivar Mokpo 4 on June 10 to 20 produced 80 to 83% more in seed cotton yield and 79 to 82% more in lint yield compared with the yields of direct planted on June 10 just after harvesting naked-barley. Mokpo 4 was better than Suwon 17 and Paymaster for the transplanting culture after barley harvest in double cropping. Optimum fertilizer application rate was N 80-P$_2$O$_{5}$ 78-K$_2$O 106 kg /ha, and optimum transplanting density was 70$\times$20cm for the transplanting culture of upland cotton after barley in double cropping system. The highest total yields 5.03 to 5.09t /ha in barley-cotton double croppings were harvested in barley drill-seeding and cotton transplanting culture on June 10 to 20 compared with seed cotton yield 1.51t /ha of the cotton monoculture planted on May 1. Their gross income also was 40% more than that of the cotton monoculture, and 30% more than the cotton direct seeding just after barley harvest on June 10. Cotton intercropping between barley rows provided 2-11% more in gross income compared with cotton direct seeding after barley harvest on June 10. Of the cotton intercroppings between barley rows, cotton intercropping of one row between the barley rows of 60cm width provided 5 to 9% more in gross income than the other cotton intercroppings between barley rows.s.