• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.108-118
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• 2003

Surface properties, including the texture and the luster, of cotton fibers and yarns thereof play an important role in textile technology. The convolutions and the cross-sectional shape of the cotton fiber affect the fabric texture and the luster accordingly. Mercerization of the cotton fabric affects the luster, strength, and other properties of the fabric. In this study, the effect of mercerization was examined on the luster of the cotton fabric, together with the effect of polishing treatment. One of the traditional methods determining the fabric luster is the use of glossmeter or goniometric glossmeter. The use of glossmeter gives successful results in determining the gloss of rather flat and continuous surface such as plastic sheet, painted surface, or paper products. Since the textile fabrics have diverse surface structures and textures, these could be regarded as having three-dimensional surface. Such complexity imposes some difficulties for differentiating subtle surface luster properties of diverse textile fabrics. The advancement in the area of imaging technologies has enabled the micro-scale analysis of the surface textures and the fabric luster recently. Using a CCD camera, the surface luster images were taken at various incident illumination conditions. Microscale analysis, including the blob analysis, of the images could differentiate the subtle luster properties present in a group of cotton fabric samples comprising mercerized cotton fabric, non-mercerized cotton fabric, polished cotton fabric, and a 'standard' cotton fabric. The glossmeter measurement gave satisfactory but limited differentiation among the samples, whose luster differences are easily recognizable with visual observation, except for the mercerized cotton fabric sample and the non-mercerized cotton fabric. The microscale analysis of the fabric luster could, therefore, help understand the nature of diverse textile fabric luster.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.15-25
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• 2007

As a part of the study for the materials development of compound feelings, therefore, this study investigated into the effects of the colors of warp and weft on the overall colors of fabrics, along with the visual changes of colors by the measuring angle of both warp and weft, by means of cross-dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics. First, the dyeing of cotton and PET fabrics individually with the same color, the dyeing of PET fabrics followed by that of cotton fabrics resulted in a small difference in color than the dyeing in the reversed order. Second, in the case of the dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics with the color of one fiber fixed and that of the other in ten colors, the color of cotton fiber, which is warp, gave much influence. In addition, the color change was remarkable among complementary colors, while it was negligible among adjacent colors. Third, in the case of dyeing of cotton/PET union fabrics with the color of one fiber fixed and that of the other in ten colors, the results were different by the measuring angle. When PET was fixed in green and cotton was dyed in ten colors, color-deepening was observed by the inclination in the direction of warp and weft without the dominance over all colors like cotton. When cotton was dyed in red and PET in ten colors, the color of PET appeared dimly in the horizontal case by the direction of the light, and red appeared as inclined in the direction of warp and weft. This is because of the dominance of cotton color over the overall color, since the density of cotton fiber, the warp of union fabrics, is higher than that of PET, the weft. Thus, this is to be considered in the selection of the warp's color. In view of the above results, the color changes are outstanding when the color of warp dominates the overall color and when the colors of warp and weft are complementary, in comparison with the case when the colors are adjacent. The colors also change by the measuring angle.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.471-482
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• 2016

This study investigated the characteristics of cotton production of Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Yeongsan River compared with that of Gurye-gun, Seomjingang River in modern times. To do this, research method was both literature and fieldwork research, results were as follows. First, as for cotton fiber cultivation in Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun, Chinese cotton (在來綿) has been cultivated during Japanese Colonial era unlike Gurye-gun. Especially, Yellow cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in Hwasungun. Second, as for spinning in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun, some of cotton spinning process have been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool since Japanese colonial era. Third, the loom types also, like spinning tools, have been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in Damyang-gun, Hwasungun and Gurye-gun. Chemical dyeing with chemical dyestuff also has been done since Japanese Colonial era. Fourth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton production have been reduced in both Damyang-gun & Hwasun-gun. For Damyang-gun, this has been connected with bamboo craft since the Joseon Dynasty period. So, Damyang-gun has more concentrated on bamboo craft than cotton production. For Hwasun-gun, since Japanese Colonial era, sericulture has been very important. So, Hwasun-gun also has more concentrated on sericulture than cotton production. The main reason to discontinue cotton production in Damyang-gun, Hwasun-gun and Gurye-gun was related to the local choice like economic added value.

• Asian-Australasian Journal of Animal Sciences
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.233-240
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• 2019

Objective: This study was to investigate the effects of dietary cotton stalk on nitrogen and free gossypol in sheep. Methods: Treatments included 25% cotton stalk (Treat 1), 50% cotton stalk (Treat 2), and a control (no cotton stalk). Six Xinjiang daolang wethers were cannulated at the rumen and duodenum and fed one of these diets. The effects of these diets on nitrogen and free gossypol absorption and metabolism were determined. Fifteen healthy Xinjiang daolang wethers were assessed for daily gain, tissue lesions, and free gossypol accumulation. Results: Dry matter intake decreased with increasing dietary cotton stalk. Total tract dry matter digestibility did not significantly differ among treatments. Dietary cotton stalk significantly decreased volatile fatty acids and increased ammonium nitrogen in the rumen. Nitrogen intake was significantly higher in Treat 2 than in the control or Treat 1. Nitrogen retention and free gossypol intake increased with dietary cotton stalk. Duodenal free gossypol flow did not increase, and free gossypol almost disappeared from the rumen. The free gossypol content of plasma and tissue was increased with dietary cotton stalk with liver free gossypol>muscle free gossypol>kidney free gossypol. Elevated dietary free gossypol decreased platelets, hemoglobin, and serum iron. Aspartate aminotransferase and ${\gamma}$-glutamyltransferase increased in Treat 2. With high long-term dietary cotton stalk intake, liver cells were swollen, and their nuclei dissolved. Renal cells were necrotic and the interstitia were enlarged. Conclusion: With short-term cotton stalk administration, only a small amount of free gossypol is retained in the body. In response to long-term or high free gossypol cotton stalk feeding, however, free gossypol accumulates in, and damages the liver and kidneys.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.2 s.161
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• pp.197-205
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• 2007

We investigated the effects of washing on the mechanical properties and hand values of spandex/cotton and cotton single jersey fabrics. These knitted fabrics were subjected to 30 laundering cycles with a drum-type washer and were followed by drying at $65^{\circ}C$ with a tumble dryer. The mechanical properties of the cotton knitted fabrics changed greatly during the first washing and then suffered no further change in their properties as the number of washing cycle increased. However, the properties of the spandex/cotton knitted fabrics changed continuously throughout all the washing cycles. The cotton/spandex knitted fabrics showed higher values in tensile and bending properties than did the cotton knitted fabrics, though both kinds of fabrics showed less difference in shearing, surface and compression properties. The spandex/cotton knitted fabrics which had proper density had a higher THV for winter underwear after 30 repeated washings than did the cotton knitted fabrics, and the THVs of both fabrics decreased with the increase in the number of washing cycles.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.1-9
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• 2009

Polycarboxylics acids are used as crosslinking agents for cotton cellulose to produce durable finished press cotton fabric. It has been observed that the strength of the cotton fabric treated with polycarboxylic acids showed significant reduction as a result of the crosslinking process. The effect of acid-catalyzed depolymerization on the tear strength of cotton fabric is investigated by evaluating the cotton fabric treated by succinic acid, which does not crosslink cotton cellulose and form little ester on the cotton fabric. We find that the tear strength of cotton fabric treated with succinic acid decreases at elevated temperature due to acid-catalyzed depolymerization of cellulose. The magnitude of fabric strength reduction increases as the acid concentration increases. At a constant acid concentration, it increases as the curing temperature and time increases. It decreases as the pH of the acid solution increases. We also find that the dissociation constant of an acid also has a significant effect on the fabric strength reduction. The magnitude of fabric tear strength reduction increases as the acid dissociation constant decreases.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.47-54
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• 1994

Cotton fiber, NaOH-mercerized cotton fiber, cotton fabric, and NaOH-mercerized cotton fabric have been treated by liquid ammonia at -33.4$^{\circ}C$. The fine structures, bending properties, tensile strengthes, shrinkages for laundering, and wrinkle recoveries were studied. The treatment of cottons with liquid ammonia brought about the transition of crystal lattice ; transforming cellulose I crystal of original cotton to cellulose I and III crystal, and cellulose II crystal of mercerized cotton to cellulose II and III crystals. The degree of crystallinities were decreased in the order of liquid ammonia>NaOH/liquid ammonia>NaOH-treated cotton. However moisture regain and water absorbency for liquid ammonia-treated cotton were lower than that of NaOH-treated cotton because of a difference in swelling actions of the agents. It seems caused by intermicrofibrillar pores produced in swelling processes. The bending rigidity and bending hysteresis were decreased remarkly by liquid ammonia treatment. Therefore softness and dimensional stability were improved. The liquid amminia and NaOH/liquid ammonia-treated cottons moreover show excellent properties in tensile strength, anti-shrinkage for laundering, and wrinkle recovery.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.24-31
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• 1998

The effects of DMDHEU alone and DMDHEU/Fluorochemical(FC) combined treatment on the physical properties of 75％/25％ cotton/polyester(CP) blended fabrics were investigated. FC water repellent and DMDHEU durable press finishes were applied in combination to CP fabrics to provide good water repellency as well as great durable press(DP) performance. The physical properties of the fabrics were evaluated by wrinkle recovery angle(WRA), DP performance, contact angle, demand wettability, and water repellency. The durable press/water repellent finished(DP/WR) CP fabrics show considerably improved WRA and DP performance. The DP/WR finishes do not change the water contact angie of polyester fibers significantly, while the DP finishes increase it. Both DP and DP/WR finishes increase the contact angle of cotton fibers. The water uptake amount increases in the following order : DP/WR cotton, DP/WR CP＜DP cotton, DP CP ＜ Control CP, Control cotton. The water uptake amount increases in the following order DP/WR CP, DP/WR cotton ＜DP cotton ＜DP CP＜Control CP, Control cotton. Considerable improvements for water repellency are imparted to the CP fabrics treated with DP/WR, and the level of improvement is not significantly different from that of the DP/WR cotton fabrics. These results lead to the conclusion that DP/YVR treatments a single pad bath on CP are effective finishes for improving both DP performance and water repellency.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.153-162
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• 2009

This paper introduces the probable regional and long distance trade of cotton goods among the pre-Hispanic Mesoamericans during the Classic (A.D. 200-900) period through the comparison of the available documentary sources. Based on the ethnohistoric data and the archaeological evidences it was found that cotton was used throughout the Mesoamerica by the elite ruling class. However, because cotton could not be grown at elevations above 6,000 feet it was obvious that nations such as Teotihuacan which flourished in the highland of present day Mexico City had to import cotton from the tropical coastal hotlands either through trade or tribute. Several ethnohistorical and archaeological data suggest that urban center in highland Mexico had people employed in weaving the textiles rather than cultivating or spinning cotton. Archaeological evidences such as the workshops used by the craft specialists seemed to be associated with weaving of cotton. Because of the similarity in climatic conditions for marine shells and cotton cultivation, Kolb's model seems to be applicable to the cotton trade of the classic Teotihuacan. Based on Kolb's model, it could be hypothesized that Teotihuacan-Kaminaljyyu-Maya was the indirect trade route connecting the Basin of Mexico and the Mayan regions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.544-551
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• 2008

In this study, the colorants of Amur cork tree were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics have been dyed with aqueous extract of Amur cork tree and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(Amur cork tree) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. This process was applied by means of the conventional mercerizing process. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics occurred simultaneously in the mercerization bath. On the surface color change, the fabric of no-chitosan finished and no-mordanted has greenish yellow. The more crosslinked chitosan on cotton fabrics has the more turned down greenish on the surface color, as increasing the concentration of chitosan, greenish color turn down to the yellow close the 90o hue angle. In all sorts of fabrics, dyeability(K/S) is slightly affected by the number of manufacturing process and the concentration of chitosan. But only mercerized cotton fabric has higher dyeability (K/S) than mordant treated cotton fabrics. Wash fastness has little different results by each condition, but almost similar values. Light fastness was improved with chitosan treatment on cotton fabric.