• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.108-132
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• 2021

The objective of this study is to develop and present the modern men's hip-hop fashion designs using the design elements of Hanfu which is a traditional culture of China as a motif by applying the SCAMPER technique. In the research methods, this study conducted the literature review and work production. In the process of work development, first, after setting up the concept, a design map was produced. Second, the characteristics of hip-hop fashion style and the design elements of Hanfu were organized. Third, this study developed the hip-hop fashion designs reinterpreting the design elements of Hanfu into modern hip-hop styles by applying the SCAMPER conception list. Fourth, Fourth, of the developed designs, the finally decided upon designs were produced into real six articles, which included a T-shirt, shirt, zippered sweater, jumper, denim jacket, long jumper, denim pants, baggy pants, and short pants. This study offers the possibility of developing Chinese hip-hop fashion design targeting the emerging Chinese hip-hop fashion market by suggesting hip-hop fashion designs with the characteristics of Chinese traditional culture.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권1호
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• pp.63-79
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• 2022

This study investigated the phenomenon of modern people enjoying tattoo culture in Korea from the perspective of post subculture. A qualitative study was conducted using both literature review and in-depth interview methods. For post-subculture perspectives, the theories of Maffesoli (2017) and Thornton (1996), which are suitable for interpreting contemporary tattoo culture, were reviewed in terms of seven concepts: sporadic network, grouping, fluid participation, temporary emotional bond, self-distinction, pursuit of underground culture, and display and concealment. Semi-structured questionnaires were constructed and administered based on the organized characteristics. Five cultural qualities of the tattoo phenomenon in Korea were derived based on post-subculture concepts. Sporadic formation is related to the pattern of inflow into tattoo culture, and "streaming" participation is based on fluid participation and temporary ties. Distinction within subculture is based on self-distinction and pursuit of underground. The costume-playing ordinary concept includes the characteristic of controlling the exposure of tattoos in society. Finally, formation of the consumer tattoo market was newly discovered in Korean tattoo culture.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.203-212
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• 2006

최근 만화나 게임에 등장하는 주인공을 흉내 내는 코스튬플레이에 대한 관심과 참여가 높아지면서 코스튬플레이는 하나의 문화현상으로 자리 잡아가고 있다. 본 연구는 질적 연구방법을 통해 코스튬플레이어들의 코스튬 플레이를 위한 의상 소비형태를 밝히고, 코스튬플레이가 지니는 소비문화적 의미를 탐색해보고자 하였다. 이를 통해 소비자로서의 코스튬플레이어 집단에 대한 이해를 돕고, 패션디자인과 마케팅에 연계하여 새로운 마켓분석에 필요한 기초 자료를 제시하는 데에 의의를 두고자 한다. 참여관찰과 심층 인터뷰를 통해 수집된 자료를 분석한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 코스튬플레이는 주로 친구의 권유 또는 스스로 하고 싶어서 시작하며, 참여는 지속적으로 참여하는 경우가 대부분이었다. 코스튬플레이가 참여자들에게 제공하는 혜택으로는 재미추구, 일상에서의 탈출, 사교의 수단 등이 있었다. 둘째, 대부분의 코스튬플레이어의 의상 소비형태에는 구매, 대여, 제작, 평상복 활용이 있었으며, 그 중 구매와 대여의 비중이 높았다. 셋째, 코스튬플레이의 소비문화적 의미를 분석해보면, 코스튬플레이어들은 의상을 구입하여 사용한 후, 재판매하는 방식을 통한 반복적 소비행동을 보여주며, 필요한 의상을 구입하는데 가격을 매우 민감하게 생각하였다. 또한, 코스튬플레이 소비문화의 매개체인 인터넷은 코스튬플레이의 의상 소비행동, 즉 정보 탐색, 비교, 실제 구입이 이루어지는 곳임을 알 수 있었다. 이러한 결과에 기초하여 본 연구의 패션디자인 및 마케팅 시사점, 그리고 제한점 및 후속연구에 대해 제언하였다. $SDR_A$에 의한 유사량($SY_A$)의 비는 $-37.83%{\sim}44.36%$로 큰 차이를 보였다._d)$의 비$(L_d/D)$에 따른 전면교각에서의 수류변화의 영향이 후면교각에 작용하여 상호 복합적인 흐름 및 세굴특성을 나타내므로 이와 같은 복렬형 원주군의 세굴특성을 파상형 원주교각에 적용하여 국부세굴의 크기 변화를 해석하였다. 따라서, 교각주위에서의 수류특성 및 세굴의 변동은 원주군 및 교각파상의 크기와 간격 등과 같은 구조물의 배열조건과 Froude 수, 수심 등의 수리학적 조건에 따라 달라지므로 이의 조건을 체계적으로 변화시켜 가면서 교각주위에서의 국부세굴 및 세굴 감소특성을 검토하였다. 실험결과 오목 및 볼록 파상형 원주 주위에서의 세굴크기는 원형원주와 비교하여 전체적으로 감소하는 것으로 확인되었으며 특히 오목형 $B/\acute{h}=3$에서는 세굴경감효과가 탁월하여 70%이상 감소하는 것으로 확인되었으나 볼록형 $B/\acute{h}=5$에서는 세굴촉진특성이 나타나고 있는 것으로 나타났다. 따라서, 파상형 원주에서는 하강류나 와류를 파상형의 내부로 유도하여 세굴의 크기를 조절할 수 있는 최적의 파상이 존재하고 있는 것으로 예측되었다.원 분야 소프트웨어의 개발에 기본 토대를 제공할 것으로 판단된다.았다. 또한 저자들의 임상병리학적 연구결과가 다른 문헌에서 보고된 소아 신증후군의 연구결과와 큰 차이를 보이지 않음을 알

• 복식
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• 제64권2호
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• pp.35-49
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• 2014

In cases of fashion businesses operating by consignment, base estimate on quantity of sales is the most essential part of merchandising. This study classified factors influential to sales into factors with systematic influence and factors with unsystematic influence. In order to find out influence of each factor on sales, non-linear regression was used with SPSS package on the basis of actual data on sales for 5 years for sport shoes brand. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, price level had significant negative(-) influence on sales. Second, price expectation effects had significant negative(-) influence on sales. Third, competitor's price effect showed significant negative(-) value. Fourth, day-of-the-week effect showed significant positive(+) effect. The theoretical marketing implications of this study are as follows. First, study on price leads to expansion of the researches from apparels to sport shoes. Field of study on price was enlarged through expansion of variable of study from price level and price expectation effect to promotion, day-of-the-week effect and rainfall effect. Second, quantitative scale of day-of-the-week effect was found and it could be confirmed that there was seasonal differences with day-of-the-week effect. Implications of above findings on marketing managers are as follows. First, it was found that an increase in competitiveness of brand power and a decline in absolute value of competitor's price effect can be realized when new product groups are developed to meet the unsatisfied needs in the market. Second, it was possible to find out the parameters scales of the price response function, making it possible to estimate sales for the next season, and in turn realize increase in rate of sales and profit rate. This research is based on the dynamic price response function, which is rare to find in the apparel business and it academic significance due to its expanding response model which was focused on price in conventional researches to non-systematic variables.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.61-72
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• 2002

This paper is the second part of a series of the research about the Teddy boy style which is to examine various fashion changes in subcultural styles in 1900s. The main concern of this research is to investigate the creation and meaning of the Teddy boy style, how it interacted with the elements of class and generation and how the materials needed by the group constructed and appropriated into the visible systematic cultural form of correspondence. The Teddy Boys are the first recognized members of the British youth culture, which is known as the new Edwardian because of their dress. They had created the concept of the "teenagers," which forms the basis of the sense of a "generation" in the 20th century. The Teds set the style that would be used and modified in the following generations. They adopted the Edwardian style of the upper class, and changed it into their own style by modifying it and adding to it some other elements. The Teddy boys style is a special version of the sartorial appropriation encountered in the sphere of the fashion history. It actually began immediately after the war by the upper class youth far from the working class neighborhood. In the late 1953, the elitist aura surrounding the Edwardian suit was suddenly shattered. Within just a few months, the Edwardian suit became a source of social anxiety and the focus of a symbolic battle. Although the Edwardian look had initially went back to the upper class root, it became a symbol of rootlessness. In appropriation of this image, The Teddy boys were also rejecting the sartorial conformism of the English working class with its modest tradition. In this respect, the Teds effected the ascent or fall of the working class in the area of fashion. The Teds dress was not a merely borrowed fashion, but was a bastard fashion in the form of American trends, the Zoot suit. At this time members of the working class possessed only work dress for the week and waist suits for the Sunday outings. Teds broke this pattern, and developed the working class dandyism of wearing clothes simply to show off. The results were that they succeeded in opening the teen market, and popularizing a working class style for the first time in British history. The Teds became the first British street style with ties music, and remain as an symbol of the rising of a new age of values and styles.f values and styles.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.29-37
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• 2017

Due to the pursuit of individuality by modern consumers, the day has come when it is hard for design to be sustained solely by external beauty. Accordingly, products with the psychological value and brand stories are appearing, so that products that reinterpret traditional crafts are now being appreciated for their merits. Handmade goods defined as new luxury goods or products of high-quality craftsmanship are being used to enhance the consumer's individual image, and has created an unprecedented consumer stratum structure. Japan is one of the countries that actively applies traditional crafts to contemporary design and this study aims to investigate cases that are being reinterpreted in modern fashion in the theme of Boro, which is not as well known among Japanese traditional crafts. The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designers by investigating the cases of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. In addition, in reinterpreting traditional crafts into other fields, it is regarded as a meaningful way to contribute to a variety of other ideas. As the research method, first, the definition and kind of Boro were investigated utilizing the related literature information about the traditional fabric of Boro, which is the starting point and basis of the research. Second, Japanese aesthetic sense defined in the previous research was classified and the relationship of the anti-decorative aesthetic sense and Boro investigated. Third, after classifying the reinterpretation cases of Boro that have appeared in four major fashion collections and designer brands from 2011 to 2016 by the selected aesthetic sense, its characteristics were investigated. The search for examples of the reinterpretation of Boro uses the results of the keyword search of Boro and Boro Fashion via the internet search engine Google from April 2016 to December 2016. In addition, the search results were selected on the basis of whether the designer specified borrowing from Boro or whether Boro on the collection order was included or not. In addition to introducing an unknown fabric craft, this study also raises the methodological problems of the reinterpretation of traditional crafts. Products containing psychological value are expected to come into the spotlight in the upcoming consumer market. Therefore, as a follow-up study, it is suggested to research examples in which various crafts are being applied as products before one knows, how this creates new originality, and the limitations involved in this.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.35-47
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• 2013

We know that humans are able to live comfortably when there is a balance between the living environment that surrounds us and us. Clothing, one of the necessities of life, serves a dual purpose of functioning as protection for the body as well as providing visual satisfaction, and so is the most effective bonding mechanism. A different type of comfort that has been provided through industrialization and advancements in technology has resulted in pollution problems in the environment, and it has reached a point of seriously thinking about its effects. The biggest problems in environmental pollution are air pollution and waste disposal, and something that cannot be ignored is that environmental hormones and harmful heavy metals have been discovered in the synthetic dyes used in the clothing product, and not only are they harmful to the body, but they also have adverse effects on skin allergies such as atopic dermatitis. Its effects on clothing, especially underwear and baby products, can become a serious issue. The use of natural vegetable dye can be considered the basis for the traditional Korean dyeing process, however not all natural dyeing process can be thought of as traditional Korean dyeing. This is because natural dyeing used to be the most common method of dyeing before synthetic dyes came along and became the dye of choice for most clothing. Natural dyes are beneficial to the body, and the nature colors, achieved from the natural materials, relieve eye strains as well as have a healing effect for people who are suffering from psychological instability such as stress. However, the use of mordant in order to increase the fastness and get better color effects can lead to even more damage to the environment, and it cannot be a dyeing method that is good for the body. Traditional natural dyeing is different from regular natural dyeing because it uses colors that the Korean people can identify with and applies specific methods in order to achieve those colors. Even though experimental study with dyestuff and practical use of the dyeing methods for traditional Korean dyeing has been started(Soh, H., 1983) and has been ongoing, it is still not easy for regular people to use the method on their own. At the present time, natural dye materials are getting made and sold more than ever, but there is a lot of confusion among consumers regarding the difference between traditional Korean dyeing and natural dyeing, as companies are using the two terms interchangeably to market their natural dye products. So getting a better understanding of the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing and traditional colors should be considered first priority at this time. The purpose of this thesis is to study the traditional Korean view of color, which developed the culture of traditional dyeing in Korea, and the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing, a method that pursued achieving Korea's color through natural dyeing.

• 복식
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.151-165
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• 2000

This study was to find out clothing design preferences, according to the clothing self-image of elderly women and to grasp the variety on clothing of elderly women and thereby to help in merchandise production planning and putting the brands into markets and to provide data for establishing a sales strategy a d to itemize women with the goods which can satisfy the desire and taste of consumer groups in the quality market. For this purpose , various researches as above were conducted .The object of this study was a total of 488 elderly women above full 55 from an elderly women and who lived in downtown Pusan. The data were analysed by using MANOVA, ANOVA , factors analysis and frequency analysis, and the Cronbach α was also applied . The conclusions made based on the theoretical background and the result of questionnaire surveys are as follows ; 1. The realistic self-image of clothing showed a similar pattern by age. 50's and 60's showed little difference by item but 70's was greater in variation between items compared to 60's. The response to each item was that most people answered "common" and they showed a pattern that responded low only in items of 'colorful' , individualistic', 'susceptible to fashion'. A similar pattern was shown by age band also in the ideal self-image and the response to each item appeared higher than in the realistic self-image , and also in items of 'colorful', 'individualistic ' , 'susceptible to fashion' the response appeared low and showed a unity. 2. The results of clothing design preferences examined on the self-image according to age are as follows ; 1) Fro jacket in the realistic self-image , 50's and 60's preferred 'tailed collar' , 'set-in sleeve', 'hips long' and 'plain jacket' and 70's agreed to the design preferences in the items except 'open collar' and also in the idealistic self-image , the degree of preference was same. 2) For skirt in the realistic self-image , 50's and 60's preferred 'tight skirt', 'normal length' , 'plain skirt' and it was appeared that 70's preferred 'pleat skirt' , 'medium length' , 'plain skirt'. Also in the idealistic self-image , the degree of preference was same. 3) For blouse in the realistic self-image, 50's preferred 'open collar', 'round neck line' , 'long set-in sleeve' , 'plain separation belt', 'open front', 'zipper' ad 60's agreed to the favorite designs with 50's except puff sleeve, and 70's appeared to prefer fastening buttons without belt. In the designs preferred in the idealistic self-image, 50's agreed with 50's of the realistic self-image and for 60's , the designs except puff sleeve type and no belt type agreed to 50's and 70's except puff sleeve agreed with 70's of the realistic self-image in their design preferences.

• 복식
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• 제62권1호
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• pp.14-28
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• 2012

'Beauty(美)' is pursued by many women. It has been expressed through fashion which has become more various as the society became wealthier. This phenomenon can also be found in the Salon Culture of the 17~18th Centuries and in the way that the free-style socialization without specific purposes began by women. Such 'salon culture' fashions have been reproduced in various methods by contemporary fashion designers as they met the trends or as they became the inspiration and source of ideas and were reinterpreted in various styles. Therefore, it is necessary to compare and analyze the studies and expression methods regarding that style's effects on contemporary fashion at a time when the women's salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries is being naturally combined with or restructured to fit in with contemporary fashion. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to analyze, establish the concept of, and summarize the characteristics of the salon fashion style in order to provide fundamental scholarly information and a direction for the fashion design market by establishing a database on the characteristics of both eras based on the characteristics analysis results of the contemporary fashion style and salon culture era. Moreover, this study is also significant in that it will be a helpful tool for new design development to satisfy consumer needs, and in that the comparison analysis on the salon culture and contemporary fashion characteristics can be a useful tool to understand the fashions of both era. The study methods were, first, through a literature review to study the concepts and background of the salon culture. The second method was to setup a style analysis of a period of 4 years and collect visual data from internet fashion information web sites, such as collection books, to collect and analyze the data. Third, the analysis focused mainly on the results of the categorization of images with 20 fashion experts. Fourth, the details of the salon culture fashion style that are used the most in contemporary fashion were summarized and analyzed. Therefore, the results of this study are as follows The development of the socializing culture during the economically abundant era of the 17~18th Centuries became the stepstool for women to enter a new society and at the same time became the background of the development of the salon and related literature. For the characteristics of the salon culture fashion of the 17~18th Centuries, the changes were more significant in the details of the collars, necklines, sleeves, and robes, rather than in partial silhouette changes. It was found that the same fashion repeats in several-century intervals depending on the era changes; however, it has been reinterpreted newly based on consumer preferences and era situations instead of being reused exactly. Therefore, this study will become scholarly and fundamental data to establish the contemporary understanding of the fashion of the salon culture.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.97-118
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• 1999

Ever since China adopted a free market economy, it has been basking in unprecedented economic growth. It has now emerged as one of the most promising markets in the world for the near future. The purpose of this study was to investigate of Chinese and Korea college female students's cognitive body type and to suggest basic informations for high quality clothing merchandising for china export. The subjects in this study were 430 college female students, aged from 18 to 24 living in Beijing(215) and Seoul(215). The survey were taken from June to July, 1999. SAS(Statistical Analysis System) is used for frequency, percentage, average, standard deviation, χ²-test. The results of this study are as follows. The 90% of Chinese collge female students has under 4000 yuan for monthly income, and they consume less than 1000 yuan for clothing purchasing for one year. About 42% chinese students are interested in controlling of physical body shape. The Korean college female students has from 1,000,000 won to 10,000,000 won for monthly income, and the 84% of them consume less than 1,000,000 for clothing purchasing for one year. It represents of economical difference between China and Korea. Examination on the Korean and Chinese self-perception on obesity of the body as a whole showed that both groups perceived themselves as normal or slightly overweight. More Korean respondents regarded their weight as normal than the Chinese did. The Chinese female college students perceived themselves rather overweight, and held a lower satisfaction level about their physical construction. While the Korean female college students showed low satisfaction level about specific bodily parts, they held a normal level of satisfaction about their physical construction as a whole. It is noteworthy that more Chinese respondents generally held lower satisfaction impressions about their physical construction than their Korean counterparts. It is needed to different merchandising project for export clothing in China.