• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.57-74
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• 2015

The history of foot-binding was once regarded as a unique practice accentuating the beauty of a woman and the culture of the costume, to be found nowhere except in China. This thesis makes it an aim to understand the culture of costume in China by analyzing the beauty of foot-binding, and its meanings associated with the historical background of the costume. The method of investigation was by both previous literature on the topic and case analysis. The shoes were analyzed by colors, patterns and decorations; selecting 70 pieces easily accessible in the Tianjin Huaxia Shoes Culture Museum. In terms of form, the general type was of the most frequent, followed by one with an elevated toe, mixed type, and one of the downward toe, sequentially. The color of foot-binding shoes were mostly vivid chromatic colors, while the achromatic ones like black and grey constituting significant portions. In view of the patterns, plants patterns were the most frequent, followed by the mixed patterns of mostly flowers with butterflies, bats, and birds desiring the prosperity of descendants. In view of the ornaments, embroidery was the most frequent, while the mixed shoes included tassels, sequins, applique, and shoes without ornaments were of distributions. The forms, colors, patterns and ornaments clearly associated with the wishes of artistic beauty, sexuality, and rise in women's social status may be in the hope of leading others to understand the costume culture embedded in the Chinese by providing important clues about them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.8
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• pp.1322-1331
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to design an official costume of Joseon Ginyeo in the scholar’s banquet in 16th century, thereby making correct historical animation, drama costumes, and various costume contents. Every Ginyeo in and wore a long yellow coat with short front edge. 'Dan-ei', Ginyeo’s court costume, had very similar shape except color and collar, therefore the size of Dan-ei was adapted to design a yellow coat for drama actress. Ginyeo’s Jogori in these paintings was wide and long enough to cover undervelly under the edge of yellow coat, but It was designed more slim and long for better appearence and comfortable movement in my work. A skirt of Ginyeo was designed with circumference of about 360cm and length of about 105cm according as a skirt style of Joseon ladies in 16th century. Ginyeo's Jam(hairpin) was consist of a vase, a plum blossom, and a lotus pattern. And, a wide underpants with a single suspender, portable pouch, Un-hae(women’s shoes) with low heel are needed for drama actress in the role of Ginyeo. In this design, it is very important to save an estimate and time, select suitable mordern fabrics, reform discomportable points, express a charater’s role, and make a trendy appearence.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.123-138
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• 2019

The hat on the back of the upper jacket in Scythian, in of northern region surrounding the Black Sea, is described as a typical woolen hood, but until now has been overlooked in Korean costume studies. The purpose of this study is to analyze the hat on the upper jacket in Scythians and to recognize the meaning of the hat. A further purpose is to complete the basic framework of research concerning the Scythian costume by adding the part that was overlooked previously As for the research method, we collected literature, previous research results, the exhibition catalog, and the related artifacts for analysis. The literature was collected at the German Archaeological Research Institute. The analysis of artifacts was based on data collected by the researchers at the Heremitage Museum in Russia and data was taken by the staff of the Heremitage Museum. The conclusions of this study are as follows: Among the artifacts in the northern region of the Black Sea, it was perviously believed that Scythians status was signified by the wearing of hat-tops. Regardless of age, warriors and knights all wore upper jackets with hats, so it appears that the people who are active wore upper jackets with hats. On the other hand, it was assumed that the royal family, who wore ornamented, colorful, and decorative hats were not observed to have worn upper jackets with hats, and therefore did not require a hat. Therefore, it is considered that the hat in the Scythian society was a costume element emphasizing practicality, not necessarily a class symbol.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.16
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• pp.15-42
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• 1991

A nation's culture isn't consisted by the characteristics of the nation only, but it is greatly affected by the geographical features and natural conditions, and it could be also dominated by the continual effect through mutual contact on economic exchange or social problem and political interests with neighboring countries. It is a well known fact that the contact of culture between Korea and Mongolia established under the special political situation that Corea was invaded by Won. But more basically, the Nomad including Mongolia had influenced upon neighboring countries, therefore, our country was also greatly influenced on consisting of our own culture by them. Moreover. the fact that our language belongs to their language's category(mostly Tweigru and Mongolian language) proves that the origin of our culture was deeply related with Mongolia. Accordingly, we could not limit the cultural relation between Korea and Mongolia within a special era. But especially, since unification of China by Mongolia, Won which appeared as a new great nation had dominated Corea for one hundred years, and the Corea's costume culture had a point of conversion to the mongolian. Therefore, this study expects to comment upon the relations of costume between Corea and Mongolia from a view point of Corea's tribute and royal gifts gifts by Mongolia written on the reference literatures. 1) From the ancient times, between our country and Mongolia there has been a direct or indirect exchange caused by the people's movement or invasion due to very closed neighboring. The relations between Corea and Mongolia have started from the mongolia's requests of tribute for the reason why they helped Corea against the Keoran's invasion, and these relation had continued by King Kongmin's age. 2) Mongolia had plundered a tribute such as dress, cereals, horses, military supplies, soldiers, maiden and little girls etc. from Corea, and therefore, a great confusion occurred on political, economic and social fields. And since King Chungyoul of Corea got married with a Princess of Won, the Corea's position was placed as the Buma nation(nation of son in law) and then high class people of Corea preferred to follow the mongolian costume such as Byunbal (pigtail), Ho dress (mongolian dress), Rouges, Chockturi (a kind of formal cap) and Doturak pigtail ribbon, and some have been applied up to date. On the other hand, the custom of Corea had transmitted to the Mongolian nobility, they called it "Corea Yang(style)". 3) The costume of Corea could be divided into three different periods, the first is the period influenced by Tang and Song's regime, the second is affected by the Won's costume and the third is applying the Myung's regime in the end of Corea. The Mongolian dress was based on the Ho dress form and it has been developed through compounding artistic traditional fields and foreign customs in long history. And Mongolia is composed of various tribes, therefore, they have their own dress for each tribe. Our country and Mongolia had a similar dress form based on Ho dress and both used the Chacksukunggo (jacket with small sleeves and slacks) and Seon(line). And the ornaments of costume such as Chockturi, Doturak pigtail ribbon and Rouges had transmitted and fixed down as a traditional wedding garment, but the Rouges has been used by noble women from the ancient times in our country. Since a member of the Society of Korean Costume has visited Mongolia in August 1990 for the first time, I really recognized the neccesity of more detailed study on the costume relation between Korea and Mongolia, and I will proceed with the study on various fields of costume under cooperation of Institute of Oriental Academy of Mongolia.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.23-31
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• 2003

The Purpose of this study was to isolate and identify fungi found in excavated clothes dating on the 16th century. As a result of microscoping with LPCB staining, seven isolated strains were classified-Acremonium strictum, Acremonium kiliense, Fonsecaea sp., Candida sp., Trichoderma sp., Cladosporium spp., Penicillium spp.. In the process of isolation and identification of fungi by the sort of textile, more fungi were found in cotton, cotton batt and silk than in ramie and hemp, suggesting that hemp has antibacterial characteristics due to the presence of lignin. In the Comparison washed samples with unwashed ones, there were more kinds of fungi in washed samples. In the cellulase activity test, Acremonium kiliense had the highest level cellulase activity, suggesting that Acremonium killiense has an important Influence on damage of textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.5
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• pp.907-928
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• 2023

This study selects imperial clothing items for experiential learning for children aged 5 to 7, presents the pattern design process for each, and proposes a production process. We chose costume items with evident characteristics and specific uses, ensuring they did not overlap. The selection considered the need for representative imperial clothing and the diversity of children's experiences. Ultimately, we produced four costumes : emperor, empress, prince, and princess. In terms of shape, color, material, and pattern, by referring to relics and photographic materials, we developed the costume for experience to emphasize the traditional beauty of the imperial costume of the Korean Empire. Moreover, we enhanced the convenience and efficiency of the clothing for children by developing sizes and details that considered various physique conditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.117-127
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• 2010

In this study, hyperspace is a result of imagination created by means of facts and fiction, represents a transfer to determination and indetermination, and means an extension to an open form. In other words, hyperspace is a high dimensional space expanded to imagination through the combination of the viewpoint on facts in this dimension and fiction. When the 2D plane surface or 3D symmetry is destroyed, or when the frame is twisted or entangled, the non-Euclidean geometry is created eventually. And when the twisting leads to transmutation and the destruction of the form reaches the extreme; this in turn became the twisting like Mbius band. Likewise, the non-Euclidean geometry is co-related to the asymmetry of the Higgs mechanism. When the 'destruction of symmetry' is considered, symmetric theory and asymmetric world can be connected. The asymmetry in turn can maintain balance by arranging the uneven weights at different distances from the shaft. Moreover, at this the concept of the upper, lower, left and right, which was included in the original form, may be crumbled down. The destruction of the symmetry is essential in order to present forecast that coincides with the phenomenon of the real world. Non-Euclidean geometry characteristic is expressed by asymmetry, twists, and deconstruction and its representative characteristic is ambiguity. The boundary between the front, back, upper, lower, inner and outer is unclear, and it is difficult and vague to pinpoint specific location. The design that does not clearly define or determine the direction of wearing costume is indeed the non-oriented design that can be worn without getting restricted by specific direction such as front and back. Non-Euclidean geometry characteristic of hyperspace have been applied to create new shapes through the modification of the substance from traditional clothing of the eastern world to modern fashion. The way of thinking in the 'hyperspace' that used to be expressed in the costumes of the east and the west in the past became the forum for unlimited creation.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.81-91
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to investigate differences in purchase behaviors for school uniforms among adolescent consumer groups which were segmented by the type of retailer they patronized. An online survey was carried out and 907 data sets were analyzed using SPSS. The results support that classifying adolescent consumers according to what type of retailers they patronize lead to a proper understanding of the segmentation of the school uniform market. The adolescent consumers consisted of five groups categorized by the retailer types. These types included special stores, department stores, discount stores, small custom-made stores and stores designated by schools. The results also indicated that consumer groups segmented by retailer patronage differ significantly in their use of multimedia information sources. Five consumer groups showed significant differences in two purchase evaluative criteria: utilities and promotions.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.97-100
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• 2009

Patchwork is a handicraft to put some certain shapes of small cloths together. Historical records of patchwork was discovered in Ancient Egypt as far back as BC 1000. Patchwork has been popular in the England and in around 13-$14^{th}$ century, European spliced little pieces of cloths for cold necessities, which made the handle of patchwork techniques gradually tend to decorative other than utility. Patchwork designs and techniques were taken across the Atlantic to North America with the early settlers in the mid-eighteenth century. In the early years of $20^{th}$ century, owing to the continuous technological advances, woman got more job opportunities that made patchwork technologies withered. Patchwork art continually evolved on the basis of historical and cultural factors to new styles, the famous Hawaiian, Stained Glass, Mola, Celtic, Victoria, Seminole and many other patchwork styles like that perfect embodied different art and cultures of different nations in different times.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.111-123
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• 2005

In the fashion retail research, the role of fashion salesperson and their job satisfaction have been getting attentions. The purpose of this study was to investigate the elements affecting the job satisfaction of fashion salesperson. A hypothetical path model of job satisfaction of fashion salesperson was developed and tested. Empirical data were collected with a written survey instrument. Data were collected from 150 fashion salespersons during 2001 fall, and finally 101 responses were analyzed. As results of series of regression analysis, final job satisfaction model was identified. Job satisfaction of fashion salesperson was affected by subjective job aptitudity, salary, fashion product knowledge. fashion involvement, and work experience. Managerial implication and research limitation were discussed.