• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.95-105
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• 2015

This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period (1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Buke families. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbidden colors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading to beautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colors that conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of a samurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari", and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi (yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous and strong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silver leaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferred by Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of the kosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was used for the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working class began to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which became popular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionality and practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.97-106
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristics and detergency of natural surfactants for the cleaning of excavated fabrics. For this purpose, SDS, a synthetic surfactant, was selected as the control, and five types of natural surfactants, namely, LES, apple wash, tea saponin, cornacopa, and coco betaine were selected. The structures of the surfactants were confirmed by FT-IR spectroscopy analysis, and the characteristics of the surfactants were determined by measuring the pH and surface tension. In addition, detergency testing was carried out on four artificially soiled fabrics and fragments of excavated fabrics. From the results, apple wash, tea saponin, and cornacopa were found to be as good as SDS in terms of detergency in the cleaning of artificially soiled fabrics, and the detergency of tea saponin and coco betaine was found to be good for cleaning excavated fabrics. Therefore, considering the safety and detergency of detergents, among natural surfactants, tea saponin is found to be most suitable for the cleaning of excavated fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.2022-2038
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• 2010

Our study was designed to provide some insights on positive country image and the mechanisms of influence that Asian fashion industries can draw upon for future benefit. We focused on a country image and fashion products with Asian ethnic influence. Asian traditional costume elements reflected in contemporary fashion products may be important representative tools for national cultural identity. This study qualitatively investigated how and to what extent country image and additional information influence the evaluation of fashion products influenced by Chinese, Japanese, and Korean traditional dress. We conducted four focus-group interviews (FGI) with 30 students from a fashion program at a university in the United States. We analyzed the evaluation of fashion products influenced by Chinese, Japanese, and Korean traditional dress, and their associations with country image. Our qualitative analysis offered more developed empirical evidence for the various paths through which country image affects the evaluation of fashion products influenced by the ethnic dress of Asians. The results of our study showed that the more direct the source of prior knowledge, the larger the influence on product evaluation. This study showed that certain cues in the evaluation of fashion products with Asian ethnic influence induce changes in the affective state (that stem from the psychological and social nature of fashion products) and illustrate the necessity of considering the affective processes involved in the appropriate use of the country image. In the fashion industry, extrinsic properties such as the country image significantly influence the attitude and purchasing decisions of consumers. The significance of this study lies in its verification of the relationship between the country image and additional information. Modular and situational-contextual influences are also revealed as important factors that deserve more attention, as well as considerations regarding the dimensions of the country image described in attitude theory.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.197-206
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• 2009

Natural preservative agents are generally made of antibiotic substances that are extracted from plants. They are used mainly to keep in an original good state food, natural cosmetic goods and medicines which are likely to get rotten. The purpose of this study is to investigate whether natural preservative agents can be applied to fabrics for the preservation of textile cultural properties. For the purpose, this researcher experimented with a certain natural preservative agent which was developed to preserve natural cosmetic goods. The study found that when treated with the foresaid natural preservative agent whose ratio to water was 1%, fabrics showed little changes in color and tensile strength, almost neutral pH, high antibiosis and anti-fungus and high resistance to Bacillus cereus that is much detrimental to silk fabrics. As a part of the study, a preliminary test on the possibility of using natural preservative agents to preserve textile cultural properties, found that when kept covered up with the 1% natural preservative agent-treated fabrics for 72 hours, excavated textile relics showed a dramatic decrease in microbial growth.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.38-45
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• 2009

First of all, the properties imparted to PET fabrics are resistance to and recovery from creasing or wrinkling when wet or dry; high resistance to stretch in the filament yarns but not in the staple; high abrasion resistance; good texture and appearance; resistance to heat ageing; good chemical resistance and good resistance, behind glass, to sunlight. But, the low moisture regain of PET fabric conduces to static troubles in textile processing. Furthermore, garments made from PET may, during wear, develop electric charges which attract to the fabric particles of soil(dirt, swarf, dust) flying in the air, so that the cuffs of shirts, for example, become soiled quickly and are not easily laundered clean. The sericin constitutes 25$\sim$30％ of silk protein and surrounds the fibroin fiber with sticky layer that supports the formation of a cocoon. The useful biochemical properties of sericin protein are oxidation resistant, antibacterial, UV resistant, hydrophilic property, and good affinity with hydrophobic material. These properties can be used as an improving reagent or a coating agent for natural and synthetic fibers, fabrics, and other intermediate products. The sericin is also applied to cross-link, and can be blended with other materials. In this study, we modified the surface of PET fabric by mixture of sericin finishing agent; sericin, polyuretane binder and 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) cross-link agent. Also, we investigated the finshing effect; moisture regain, stiffness, handle, drape and electrostatic. The moisture regain of PET fabric treated with sericin finishing agent was higher than that of untreated PET fabric. As a result of evaluating influence about handle of PET fabrics treated with sericin finishing agent, it was confirmed that the sericin finishing agent could be use as a linen like finishing agent.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.68-79
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• 2009

It is inevitable to have cutting line to get the 2D pattern from 3D body surface. In this paper the efficiency of curvature plot as a cutting line in the process of flattening 3D surface was investigated. As reference, basic clothing construction line was adopted to divide the 3D surface into small blocks to make the flattening process easy. Female dummy as well as human body were scanned and surface of the upper body was segmented using curvature plot and basic constructing line. 2D tight-fit pattern was developed using three software, the RapidForm 2004, 2C-AN and Yuka CAD. Gap between clothes and body, and the clothing pressure on the body was observed to determine the fit of the clothes. As results, clothes constructed with blocks divided by curvature plot displayed a similar level of tight fit as compared with those by basic construction line. It was found that curvature plot is effective method as a segmentation of the 3D surface even for the actual body which does not have any previous reference line. It is expected that application of curvature plot will be expanded in 3D apparel technology.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.15 no.10
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• pp.983-988
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• 2006

The textile remains have been affected largely by environmental factors including microorganisms because they were composed of organic compounds to be easy to damage. So, we selected 8 strains of the 131 isolated strains from museum environments and textile remains by high pretense activity, and identified them for measuring the antibacterial activity of Gingko biloba extracts. They were identified Genus Arthrobacter spp. 3 strains (Arthrobacter nicotiannae A12, Arthrobacter sp B12, Arthrobacter oxidans B13), Cenus Bacillus spp. 2 strains (Bacillus licheniformis D9, Bacillus cereus D33), Genus Pseudomonas spp. 2 strains (Pseudomonas putida A24, Pseufomonas fluorescene C21) and a Genus Staphylococcus sp. 1 strain (Staphylococcus pasteuri D3) as closest strains through the blast search of NCBI. Though antibacterial activity of the extracts of Gingko biloba leaves as MIC was lower than that of other pharmaceutical antibiotics. However the extracts was crude extracts, the extracts might have good antibacterial against most of the isolates from museum. Especially, the antifungal activity of Gingko biloba is known previously, the extracts of Gingko biloba leaves has possibility of usage as a good natural material for conservation of remains.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.32
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• pp.427-463
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• 2016

This article deals with five main theories about the origin of Yeonwahdae(蓮花臺), a Korean court dance(jeongjae; 呈才) and its transmission process through the age from Chinese Dang(唐) and Song(宋) to Goryo(高麗) and Joseon(朝鮮) in Korea. As a result, it was found that there was a significant difference between Chinese Chaj-u(?枝舞) dance and Korean Yeonwahdae, and furthermore there was an enormous change as it came to Joseon period in the number of performer, costume and music. Therefore, it is seriously necessary to select, restore the main version of Yeonwahdae in each period, and to make an effort to create new version of Yeonwahdae that reflects the spirit and taste of our time. Besides, it is important to inherit the inner spirit of Yeonwahdae as well as its outer appearance. Shortly, the main purpose of Yeonwahdae performance at present should be to reflect the most important, urgent issues of our time thereby to pray the welfare and prosperity of our country.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.409-422
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• 2021

A doctor's coat worn by Seo Jae-pil (1864-1951)-National Registered Cultural Heritage No. 607-was conserved with wet cleaning to remove thick wrinkles and brown stains that had been present for a long time. This paper also applied microscopic observation and infrared spectrophotometric analysis to obtain scientific investigation data on the cotton fabric of this doctor's coat. Information about Seo Jae-pil's time as a doctor, the process of changing his English name, and C.D.Williams & Co., which produced the medical coat, revealed that this doctor's coat was worn by Seo Jae-pil between 1892 and 1898 or 1926 and 1939. Additionally, this paper proposes a pad for filling relics that can protect the shape of modern and contemporary clothing, such as Seo Jae-pil's doctor's coat, for display at a museum site. Specifically, this research provides detailed information on the manufacturing of filling pads that can prevent damage to modern and contemporary jackets and coats so that they can be used in the cultural heritage field by developing filling materials for three-dimensional costume artifacts.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.40
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• pp.243-270
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• 2007

Linked pearls pattern expressed on textiles have no limited scale or shape when manufacturing, so they are free in expression. And from the design, material, and color we can analogize the social culture of that age. Oriental linked pearls pattern was started from the Sasanian Persia and introduced through the Silk Road, so it is closely connected with the East and the West culture. This study will consider from the 5th century to the 10th century; the mural costume of the West Central Asia, the ancient textiles excavated from the Sinjiang and Qinghai area of China, and the linked pearls pattern which are collected at Shosoin, Japan. And from this study, will concentrate on clarifying the linked pearls pattern's condition of the cultural exchange between the East and the West and it's structural variation process. The design of linked pearls pattern delivered to the East through the Silk Road is differed by area. For example, in the Western Pamir Plateau, where the ancient Sogdians mainly lived, the excavated linked pearls pattern's subject were deer or cassowary variated from the West Asian motif. But the ones excavated from Kucha Xingang had Chinese motifs added so they showed Chinese characters or Buddhist Bodhisattva image instead of Helios. Like this, the appearance of new patterns, which were accompanied by structural variations, gradually deviated from the standardized pattern of the Sasanian Persia. And this structural variation process has relations with the construction and arrangement method of various patterns of the after ages. The foliated floral Spray, which is placed at the lozenge space of linked pearls' space, had developed into ogival - shaped pattern (Neunghwamun). And the prevalence of geometrical structure pattern after the 10th century and the unfolding method of Tapjamun which is arranging unit pattern in order, are similar to the linked pearl pattern. In brief, linked pearls pattern accompanied by technical improvement let us understand the polished artistic code from its expression, and has importance in showing universal pattern beyond region and culture.