• 한국문화재보존과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.75-80
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• 2004

We proposed that the replicas be made as an alternative to achieve such reciprocal goals as the safe preservation of traditional costume relics and socio-educational realizations through exhibitions, etc., A replication was categorized for its purpose into a restoral replication a work based on the historical research of color and shapes as they were originally made and a current state replication . a production based on a minute record of the relics as they are excavated Then, we reported the reproduction process from the excavation to the exhibition on the excavated traditional costumes of Milchanggun's Jobok The purpose of a replication of relics is to record the relics experiencing the change resulted from the inevitable degeneration over time as organic cultural assets together with the substitution exhibition of relics and academic researches and so on. Accordingly, the above two methods are to be preceded by a deep and through research and study on the relics of replication. This study on the relics having an important cultural property value presents the preservation of tile cultural assets of traditional costume through the two replication processes and results and a flew pattern of exhibition.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.149-168
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• 2016

The Saka were a large group of Eastern Iranian nomadic tribes on the Eurasian Steppe. The sythian figures shown on the Persian reliefs are esteemed as the only empirical material in the range of scythian costume researches. The study of the scythian culture is an important part in the research of possible connections of our cultural roots with this region. The investigation was initiated by the theory, that the korean people emigrated from the Eurasian region, so that their origin can linked to eurasian riding people. The aim of this study is to organize the scythian clothingform in a typological system. This results shall be used as the starting point for research investigating the origin of the korean clothingform. This study refers to data, which has been extracted from reviews of literature, articles and excavation data of German Archaeological Institute. Results of this study are as follows: The basic form of clothing shown on the Persian reliefs is the upperjacket with narrow sleeve and trousers. This basic form is divided into two different types. 1)The median tunicform upperjacket('Sarapis') and median narrow trousers('Anaxsirides'), which is bound with its end shoes. 2)The Scythian 'Cutaway' upperjacket that is cut from the front in the middle to the knee with the diagonal lines and relatively wide trousers. They wore high pointed hats with flaps over ears and the nape of the neck. The first median type is dated from the $6^{th}$ century BC. and the second type can be found on reliefs from the $5^{th}$ century BC. Reliefs. In the meantime appeared a mixed form, namely scythian Jacket and median trousers. From this analysis could be observed that scythian clothingform has changed by median type to the scythian type. The Scythians shown on the Persian reliefs are divided into three group according to the regions where they lived: Saka-paradraya, Saka-tigraxauda, Saka-haumavarga. Clothingstype is different depending on the group. The clothesform is also used as a good parameter to distinguish scythian groups.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.79-95
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• 2006

The relationships between costumes and literature are the remarkable characteristics in the history of Japanese costumes. Among them, the literary designs which have literary subject matters seem unique to Japan. In Japan, the history of the literary design traces far back and its examples are abundant in various literatures in the Heian era. It is particularly notable that the literary designs take a relatively large part of Kosode pattern in the pre-modern period, the Edo era, which can be cleary seen in Kosodehinagata-bon, a collection of Kosode pattern of those era, in addition to various sources of extant relics or paintings. These literary designs lie the tradition of the literary lyricism as aesthetic sense in the japanese costume history. The literary lyricism means the lyrical mood evoked by literature. The purpose of this study is to examine how the literary lyricism which has supported those literary designs was formed and developed. The literary designs on costumes related with the relationships between literature and formative art, for example painting. Those typical example, which started in the literature tournament, utaawase, was devised for matching up with the character of the assembly. They continued as a sort of the intellectual amusements. In the pre-modern period, the literary designs developed In relation to not only subject matters but those expression. Moreover, it shows the extremely typical example that a series of Kosodehiinagata-bons, consisted solely of literary designs, was enjoyed as a device of reading materials like poem anthology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.31-48
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• 2013

It goes without saying that Yi Mae-Bang, as the sole owner of two of the intangible cultural assets including No. 27 Seungmu in 1987 and No. 97 Salpuri Chum, is a top-notch Korean traditional dancer. Moreover, in regards to traditional clothing, he is also known as the only traditional dancer who directly performs on stage as well as analyzes traditional clothing in order to apply them into his own dance performances by designing and producing them to meet his artistic spirit. In order to examine how Yi Mae-Bang's unique and creative stage clothing was developed, and what kind of process it went through to possess its unique style, which draws the attentions of people with its harmony of beauty and dance, this research first examined the change of the composition through the yearly picture data. Before 1984, the composition of the Salpuri Chum clothes changed by putting on 'Jeogori' on the 'Mudong-Bok' without the 'Kweia' (sleeveless), and in 1999 'Mudong-Bok' became widened with the decoration of embroidered hem making it more attractively colorful. after 2000 it became more splendidly adorned by embroidering hem on widened Mudong-Bok and tucking 'Kweja' in the layers which created silhouette like a dress that is seemingly wider and luxuriant than a skirt. One of notable features of Yi Mae-Bang's Salpuri is that its cloth and cuff ribbons are lightly colored in different colors enclosing the tip part. As for the ribbons, it was also changed as time went by from direct-cutting of the cloth just like the A-line of Mudong-Bok to drawing a diagonal line less than 5cm above the ribbon and 8cm below the ribbon so that it takes the form of getting widened as it gets to the lower part, and its length was also elongated in proportion to that of the bottom of Mudong-Bok.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.74-87
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• 2018

This thesis investigated majo and maja costumes of depicted in Francisco de Goya's paintings from the middle of 18th to the early 19th century, and presented the costumes defined as the upward flow from the lower classes to the upper classes. The study methodology selected those describing the maja and majo among the figure paintings, portraits and genre paintings by Goya that identify unique characteristics with the qualitative analysis of the cases of the upward flow with that affect the costume of the upper classes. The influence of the majo and maja costumes were outstanding in the shape of the outfits while the French style gown of the upper class women were one-piece dresses in shape, those of the maja were two-piece dresses that consisted of the upper and gather skirts. The costume was perfected by use of the mantilla or head kerchief, instead of the headdresses prevalent at those times. The majo's costume affected the men's costume of the upper classes in the shape of the outfits. Short coat and tight breeches were preferred to the loose ones as well as instead of a long coat. Rather than the wigs or tri-corn hat, the head kerchief and sash belt applied, which could be evidence of the upward flow as well as shows proof of the influence of majo and maja costumes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.11-21
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• 2015

This study analyzed the expressive phenomenon of a blurred boundary in fashion jewelry focused on the relationship between fashion jewelry and costume or fashion jewelry and body. The method of this study was to analyze recent documentaries about jewelry theories in regards to 607 cases of fashion jewelry design in fashion books, fashion magazines, fashion internet sites from 2000 to 2014. The results were: First, phenomenon of blurred boundary between fashion jewelry and costume was expressed in a see-through wear form made of luxury material (gold and diamond) or paste material, a similar form (like fashion accessories made of crystal, bids, and gold chain), an integration of fashion accessories and jewelry, and an attached jewelry on fashion accessories. It reflected a rearrangement of conventional relationships, a blurred relation of function and meaning, dissolution of jewelry form stereotypes, jewelry styling, a harmony of function and decoration, and an alteration to the central role of a fashion image. Second, the phenomenon of a blurred boundary between fashion jewelry and body was expressed in a body organ wrapping, body surface adhesion and sculptural jewelry based on body pose. It reflected a separation from conventional space of jewelry expression, a realization of mystery and fantastic, an expression of new body surface and a blurred boundaries of fashion jewelry and body art. Aesthetic characteristics were analyzed into metaphor and integration by separation from the conventional relationship of fashion jewelry and costume or fashion jewelry and body.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.128-144
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to define the origin of name 'Watteau gown' which is controversial by analyzing a Watteau gown, represented in the paintings by Jean Antoine Watteau, an artist in the Rococo era, and clarify the shape and composition of a Watteau pleats which characterizes the Watteau gown and the morphological characteristic of the silhouette of the Watteau gown. Theoretical review and empirical research was simultaneously conducted. The theoretical review considered social backgrounds from late 17th century to early 18th century when Watteau actively worked and a background of forming the style of Fete galante. The empirical research was conducted by sampling 106 pieces of costume from Watteau's 65 paintings collected and classifying according to morphological shapes and composition. Based on this result, it is suggested that the Watteau gown was very prevalent as women's costume early in the 18th century. The Watteau gown, robe volante, robe battante, sack gown and robe a la Francaise were developed and modified from one gown which started from the same source in some connection. This study has significant meaning that it defines the origin of Watteau gown and Watteau pleats found in women's costume in the Rococo era. Furthermore this study will contribute to the practical use of costume elements of 18th century which are beautiful and artistic in aesthetics as the source of contemporary fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.14-27
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the aesthetic characteristics of Brecht's V-Effekt is visually expressed of the costume in the Traditional Play of Korea, China and Japan. The method and the contents of the study were to refer to the antecedent studies and the related documents to peruse the characteristics of the traditional plays of the East and West, the origin and the concept of Brecht's Verfremdung and considered the relation of Brecht's V-Effekt and the Oriental plays, and then the researcher derived the aesthetic properties of Brecht's V-Effekt. This study analyzed how those qualities of the aesthetic characteristics on the V-Effekt are manifested on the stage costumes of Korean mask, Beijing opera and Kabuki. The aesthetic qualities of Brecht's V-Effekt are classified into symbolism, grotesque disposition, character of sing and dance, comicality. The symbolism in the traditional play costumes of the three nations is shown in the colors of the masks in Korean and the tone of the colors on the costumes and the make-up in Beijing opera and Kabuki. While the properties of bizarrerie and deformation coexist in masque and Beijing opera costumes in terms of grotesque disposition, Kabuki strongly displays bizarre grotesquerie. The character of sing and dance is visually expressed through the transformation of sleeves on the three nation's traditional play costumes; Masque on the Hansam and Chengsam, Beijing opera on the Water sleeves and Kabuki on Hurisode. The comic aspection is expressed in a humorous and comical way through the distortion and transformation of forms in Masque and Beijing opera but it cannot be seen in Kabuki costume. The study as above will form the aesthetic properties of the Oriental traditional play costumes and also it will contribute to establishing the identity of Korean mask costumes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.967-973
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• 2013

During high speed sewing, the needle thread is exposed to dynamic loading, short strike loading, inertia forces, friction, rubbing, force of check spring, bending, pressure, friction, impact, shock and thermal influence. The dynamic thread loading/tension alters throughout the stitch formation cycle and along its passage through the machine. The greatest tensile force occurs at the moment of stitch stretching, when the take up lever pulls for required thread length through the tension regulator. These stresses act on the thread repeatedly and the thread passes 50-80 times through the fabric, the needle eye and the bobbin case mechanism, before getting incorporated into the seam, which result in upto 40% loss in tensile strength of the sewing thread. This damage in the sewing thread adversely affects its processing and functional performance. In this paper, the contribution of dynamic loading, passage through needle and fabric, and bobbin thread interaction in the loss in tensile properties has been studied. It is observed that the loss in tensile properties occurs mainly due to the bobbin thread interaction. Dynamic loading due to the action of take up lever also causes substantial loss in tenacity and breaking elongation of cotton threads.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.391-400
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• 2007

This purpose of this study is to announce the research for the formative characteristics and the constructive characteristics for the 23 pair of pants excavated from the tomb of Yeosan Song's family at Mokdal Dong in Daejeon. Men and women wore the open-type over the close-type pants. Song Hyo-sang and Chungjoo Park wore the 1 or 2 pairs of the open-type pants over the 3 pairs of close-type pants. Song Hee-jong and his wife Sonhung An wore a pair of the open-style pants over the 1 or 2 pairs of pants. It was due to the shortage of goods by the war that Song Heejong had less shrouds than Song Hyosang. The pants were almost made of the cotton and the silk. The open-type pants worn inside was made of the cotton but outside was made of the silk. That time the cotton was used for the unlined underwears for the health and the protection against the cold and the hot. The silk was used for the outwear. In the construction type, 12 pairs of pants were unlined, 6 pairs of pants were quilted, 4 pairs of pants were padded, and 1 pair of pants was lined. All unlined were the close-type and the quilted and padded pants were the open-type, which were worn inside. Lined type was just one. In the wearing order of shrouds, type, textile, and constructive type, Song Hyosang and Chungjo Park were similar, Song Heejong and Sonhung An were similar.