• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.65-83
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to explore the dynamics of the newly emerging designer fashion market and examine how startup designers reacted to the tension between creativity and business, and how they grew within such dynamics. In-depth interviews were conducted with 22 DFE entrepreneurs and 7 fashion industry experts. The grounded theory was used to analyze data and yield results. Korean new generation of DFEs, attracted by the growing online market opportunities are directly distributing through online channels, targeting the millennial consumers who are pursuing new values at new distribution channels. They show new growth pattern, start with a few key items in the middle and lower price segments, then upscale their design, quality, and price. This study further investigated designers' enterprise orientation shift, which was explored by Mills. Some creativity-oriented designers encountered difficulties in the orientation shift, while designers who demonstrated business characteristics from the startup stage restored the balance by trying to improve both creativity and business. This study discovered a new way for the designer to enter the growth stage. This growth approach is one of the success strategies applicable to designers launching a brand on online platforms in the global market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.31-46
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• 2010

Fashion industry is faced with issues of raising the competitiveness of established designers recently. As well as the change of business system, the specialization of professionals in design team increases the needs of in-service training of fashion designers. But, the education programs of enterprise are generally focused on adaptability to the organization and harmony among men as an introduction level. Furthermore, there are few professional institutions that give an education to the working-level designers. Thus, this study aimed at development of specialized in-service training program that could educate established designers for more integrated thought to cope with rapid changes in the fashion field. Firstly, the theoretical study on the in-service training and changes of fashion environment had been studied through literature review. Then, the current state of in-service training of fashion enterprises and the courses for established designers in fashion institutions were analysed. Finally, a comprehensive framework of in-service training program for fashion designers has been established as a result of this study. The program was designed in accordance with the previous research which reached 4 different educational needs for in-service training: brand planning and management, understanding production, understanding practical fabrics & colors, computer program. The study went further to apply the program to each design group divided by career: new designer, junior designer, senior designer, design leader. This study also suggested evaluation process to confirm the effects.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.115-133
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• 2015

This study analyzed the effects of fashion companies' organizational types on job satisfaction and organization commitment of fashion designer. As well as this study analyzed the differences the organizational types, job satisfaction and organization commitment by the gender and age of fashion designer. A survey was conducted from January 5 to 30 in 2015, among fashion companies' designer of Seoul metropolitan area. And 238 responses were used in the data analysis. As a result, fashion companies' organizational types was composed of five factors(coordinating leader organization, group creative organization, external innovators' collaborative organization, bureaucratic hierarchy organization, integrative thinking leader organization). Job satisfaction of fashion designer was composed of three factors(work satisfaction, employment satisfaction, relationship satisfaction), and organization commitment was composed of two factors(affective commitment, calculative commitment). The coordinating leader organization and integrative thinking leader organization positively influenced the work satisfaction, but the bureaucratic hierarchy organization negatively influenced the work satisfaction. The coordinating leader organization and group creative organization positively influenced the employment and relationship satisfaction. The group creative organization and external innovators' collaborative organization positively influenced the affective and calculative commitment, but the bureaucratic hierarchy organization negatively influenced the affective commitment. In addition, there were significant differences in the coordinating leader organization, integrative thinking leader organization, employment and relationship satisfaction by the gender. And there were significant differences in the group creative organization, bureaucratic hierarchy organization, affective and calculative commitment by the age.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.1 s.66
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• pp.127-136
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• 2007

Modern society shares new culture derived from the fusion of various cultures unlike the past culture regulating one phenomenon of certain field as the representative icon of the era. Especially, the phenomenon of globalization acts as the catalytic agent to receive coexistence of variousness easily. Especially, in fashion industry, these flows and the view of naturalism are harmonized and new fashion trend called 'Ethnic' was embossed. As it reflects internal spirit of human being that wants to return to the memory due to expansion of material civilization, the interest in the designer pursuing it is increasing. This study tries to consider the Ethnic style displayed by Chinese American designer, Anna Sui, who pursues the eastern style with full wit and individuality. Anna Sui, who was praised by New York Times for 'the superb harmony of houte couture style and up-to-date style', created another fashion trend, romanticism in New York and she is the worldwide designer representing Ethnic. Like it, the consideration on her Ethnic style reanalyzing as eastern style provides guidance to check how designer's fashion philosophy appears in one category of America and China and new study material that enables us to understand the third world culture code as well as Anna Sui. This confirmation has the meaning as the basic material for the endless challenge to the new style that fashion will go on in the future. Anna Sui was confirmed to have been recognized as a designer who represented the ethnic collection in the United States, exerting the influence with her unique oriental background. Moreover, her design could identify the pivotal point of ethnic image by developing her unique style which is distinct from other designers in terms of silhouette, color, fabric, detail, and so on. This kind of study can provide the basic data required to understand the fashion world of designer in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.52-67
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• 1999

A Study on the Drapery Presented in Costume The purpose of this study is to find esthetic characteristic of a drapery costume throughout Greece costume and modern fashion. For this purpose, documentary studies were proceed. And photos of the drapery costume were analyzed. Drape is the hang or fall of fabric when made into a garment is an important quality to consider indesigning. Fabric falling in folds in the garment as seen on statues of ancient Greece ; most outstanding modern versions made by designer Gres and Vionnet. Greek costume was in drapery types mostly and a feature created the vest esthetic effert on simplicity with ornament of drapery. Grecian were expressed pure beauty and natural beauty throughout their drapery costume. Madame Gres is widely considered one of the most talented greece for inspiration of the couture, ranked by many with Vionnet. They shows in their mastery of Greek draping -el-egance and simplicity- And also, they always implicity emphasized the relationship between clothing and the female body. Therefore drapery costume admired beauty of pure human body Clothing is expressed which wanted to get the nature and human, search for the losed nature of modern men. In conclusion, the characteristic of drapery costume from ancient greece to modern, timeless concerned human\`s lives and recurring humanity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.25-39
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• 2000

Raoul Dufy devoted and was involved in textile design between 1910 and 1928. It was a transitional period in fashion. especially Poiret took an important role as a fashion designer at that time. After meeting Poiret, he won the fame as a textile designer rather than a painter, in his early stages, He had been deeply involved in fashion design. For instance Dufy and Poiret shared their world of art, collaborated to mount exhibitions, the Print textile fabrics by Dufy was used for dresses by Poiret and so on. The textile design which showed Dufy's artistic abilities was used as a method of expression of an exchange and a communication between art and fashion in the same period, through collaborations with Poiret. For instance, Dufy as a fauvist created and produced textile designs using his magnificent and cheerful colors and lines. He brought about a revolution in the textile design due to his participation in fashion design, as well as encouraging fashion designers. Textile design by Dufy, which grafted onto his world of art impressed Poiret greatly. It proposed the new direction of the fashion and influenced modern costume. The positive collaborate between Dufy and Poiret provided a momentum to a costume for being a part of art. Textile design as one of the important area in modern fashion needs a design originality for creating a high value-added products.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.42-58
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• 2005

This study examines the color image of the early 20th century and compares the work of designers' who represented fashion and trend at that time with cinema costume which made after 1990's. This shows the relationship and differences between the color of the past which is presented through designer's works and present which is visualized through cinema costume. The result of this study shows that the color which is reproduced through cinema costume is decided according to the story, time period, scenery space and character of the film rather than being a genuine attempt at reviving the color of the past time period. The color is exaggerated or limited to manipulate the effects of character and story creating a stronger impression to the audience.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.396-406
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• 2009

Drapery costume started with using one fabric to loosely wrap around one's body without using technical skills or needlework. Drapery becomes a beautiful and indeterminate form of pleated costume which determines the costume silhouette and serves as an essential component for the composition of artistic costume. The purpose of this study was to examine the aesthetic characteristics of drapery costume using literature review. The study methods include considerations of the formation process of drapery costume with the analysis of costume in pictures. For modern costume designs, the study analyzed the designer's dress with a focus on drapery forms, which appeared in the collections from 2001 to 2007. First, drapery costume contains the beauty of human body. Drapery costume reveals the smallest movement of the body. The beauty of drapes, which is naturally revealed along the curve of the body, and the pleats which form on the soft cloth create the beauty of body. Second, drapery costume has rhythmical beauty. Drapery pleats feature not only functions, but also unique formativeness that provides rhythmicity and regular or irregular direction effects by line. Third, drapery costume features elegant beauty. Bias cutting by draping can effectively express the elegant characteristics of the fabric. In making a piece of clothing, the composition method can express elegant beauty by covering up the shortcomings of the fitting and by fitting to the body line without cutting the fabric, or fitting it by bias cutting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.64-80
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to examine the cases of Korean requesting fashion designers for uniform design, that were created from the combination of designer's ideas with company identity, and analyze its design characteristics. For research methods, the uniform design cases were investigated and analyzed from 2000 to 2012. Uniform design cases were classified by job categories( airlines, banks, distributions, constructions, communications and restaurants). The most frequently applied trait on the part of uniform design proved to be for the fashion trend, followed by emblematic and functional factor and lastly, by korean tradition. This might be ascribed to the occupational characteristics of the fashion designers, which is the most emphasis on the fashion trend. The uniform of the construction and the distribution companies showed very fashionable designs that would be regarded to be associated with the trendy life styles in these companies' consumers. To the contrary, the uniform of the financial and communication companies showed the functional and emblematic trend that might be due to work conditions with long hours of sitting, coming from the occupational characteristics of these companies.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.222-239
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• 2021

In this study, six mainland Chinese designer brands-Xander Zhou, Sankuanz, Sean Suen, Feng Chen Wang, Pronounce, and Angel Chen-were selected that had their works presented at both Chinese and global fashion shows between 2016 and 2021. By analyzing the design characteristics of each brand, it is possible to understand the style characteristics and trends of Chinese menswear designs. A case study approach was adopted utilizing literature data, whereby 1663 photos were collected from the fashion information website POP (www.pop-fashion.com). Changes in Chinese men's image and the menswear market were identified. The design characteristics of modern Chinese menswear are as follows. First, the results from analyzing the target brands show that each brand has a distinct personality. Compared with the traditional or formal style, urban casual and sports styles (based on street style) account for a larger proportion. Second, the boundaries between different styles are becoming ambiguous, and contrasting styles are harmoniously expressed by breaking down boundaries through changes and combinations of colors, materials, and details. Third, after examining the overall trend, 2018 was a watershed point, after which the design trend has changed from either conservative or exaggerated to a practical and everyday style, demonstrating a genderless trend.