• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.321-337
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• 1992

Fashions are constantly subject to change, so that forecasting trends in fashion is very difficult and the forecasting is very important. The reason is that forecasting is identifying a hot trend for the next days' business and projecting the future. The purpose of this study is to suggest the realistic forecasting theory identify fashion trends at present, further forecast fashion trends to 1995. For this study, historical models (th historical resurrection model, the historical continuity model) and the art movement model among the behavioral science models which was suggested in 1986 by Geoge B.Sproles were selected. According to this study, was exhibited. This curve was resulted from relation between 1980s fashion trends and the behavioral science models of fashion. Fashion trends to 1995 through will be followings; 1. Body Conscious look as one of the characteristics of modern fashion will bi continued throughout 1990s' fashion trends. 2. The attraction of Mini style was started from the middle of 1980s, recently gets near micro mini and super shouts, These are representative of the historical continuity model. 3. Mini look as revivals of '60s in early 1990s fashion trends. This phenomenon identifies that "Fashion is repetition" 4. When Mini look and super shorts reach, will not progress any more. In this time, will bi seen transfer of style be using classic style. Tat is modern classic will be appeared. also this condition is same from late 1960s to early 1970s. In view of the historical base, the action of the varieted pants will be prominent. 5. Fashion trends which passed through this process will transfer from young look to elegant look. In this time, designers will retrospect '30s and '50s fashion trends, and then will design modern feminine look. 6. Ethnic look, the fashion trend after that condition will be accelated feminine look. This look with the feminine look will reveal rich, colorful, elegance feminine image. 7. In 1980s, activity and function in clothes were demanded. The clothes which are considered these condition will be demanded continuously. 8. The variety of fashion will appear as mixmode and new coordinate look in a clothes simultaneously in fashion of '90s. And these looks will creat mixed beauty. 9. Pop art, op art, graphic art will be not only development of textile but also movement of fashion soul in 1990s. The fashion behavior will be continuously scientificated.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.172-183
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• 2014

The term "new woman" (신여성 [Sinyeoseong], 新女性) refers to an idealized image of contemporary women during the so-called modern period in East Asia. In Korea, these "modern girls" were also referred to as modan (毛斷), or "cut-hair", reflecting changes in appearances that rejected the traditional value system in favor of "the new" in everyday life. Although it was used to refer to the perceived educated leaders of this new period, it also had the negative connotation of referring to frivolous women only interested in the latest fashion. The popular discourse on this "new woman" was constantly changing during this early modern period in East Asia, ranging from male-driven women's movements to women-driven liberal and socialist movements. The discourse often included ideals of what constituted female impeccability in women's domestic roles and enlightened views on housekeeping, yet in most cases the "new woman" was also expected to be a good wife and mother as well as a successful career woman. The concept of the "new woman" was also accompanied by an upheaval in women's social roles and their physical boundaries, and resulted in women repositioning themselves in the new society. The new look was a way of constructing their bodies to fit their new roles, and this again was rapidly reproduced in visual media. Newspapers, magazines, and plays had gained immense popularity by this time and provided visual material for the age with covers, advertisements, and illustrations. This research will explore the fashion of the "new woman" through archival resources, specifically magazines published in the 1920s and 1930s. It will investigate how women's appearances and the images they pursued reflected the ideal image of the "new woman." Fashion information providers, trendsetters, and levels of popular acceptance will also be examined in the context of the early stage of the fashion industry in East Asia, including production and distribution. Additionally, as the idea of the "new woman" was a worldwide phenomenon throughout the 19th and early 20th century, the effect of Japanese colonialism on the structure of Korean culture and its role as a cultural mediator will also be considered in how the ideal image of beauty was sought, and whether this was a western, colonial, or national preference.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.511-522
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• 2001

Various art trends of the 20th century that contributed to the creation and development of abstract art had showed the transition from the convention of mere representation of the object to the formative sensitivity emphasizing self-expression. Noticing that such trends had influenced the fashion industry to move toward a free and individualized style, this study attempts to express the formative way from the existing art to wear, especially, based on early 20th century paintings, 5 casual wears were made which applied korean materials and silhouettes that are functional, sample and show traditional korea beauty. The purpose of this study is to search for a solution to expand the world market by producing dresses utilizing our own tradition that can be distinguished in the global market and that derive inspiration from the formative of the sensitivity of the paintings during the first half of the 20th century. It also aims to let national economy as a high-added industry. The result of this study are as follows: First, the expression method and element of various styles of art such as Fauvism, Expressionism and Cubism, during the period of transition to abstract art, clearly presented the direction toward the artistic liberation and made possible a new formative artistic expression of dress in the early years of the 20th century. Their ideas inspired the dress designers of the time with a reformative and creative sense of fashion and have greatly contributed to the development of a new era of uniqueness and individuality. Second, the color and the simplicity of form of the early 20th century paintings are suitable fro utilizing a motive of functional dresses and express unique and concise modern beauty. Third, it was confirmed that utilizing our tradition in contemporary dress can be a significant method of creation in which the uniqueness and creativity of Korean dress can be expressed, distinguishing it on the global scene, as well as inspire the originality and pride of our culture. Fourth, a possibility has been discovered. It is the functionality and uniqueness of aesthetic expression technique of the contemporary arts that can contribute to the fashion of tomorrow, by searching a modern fashion which was affected by the past and also by taking a look at the trend of modern fashion as the same field as casula wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.6
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• pp.121-143
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• 1982

Many studies have done on Egyptian Clothing because its unique characteristic culture. However, I was facinated by the exhibitions of Tutankhamen burial treasures which were shown in San Francisco and New York in 1978 and 1979. I found out myself that there are several interesting aspects of clothing to compare 18th dynasty king, Tutankhamun and other dynasties in Egyptian culture. Therefore, I tryed to analized the Egyptian clothing including accessaries with theigr symbols durin 18th dynasty King, Tutankhamun. The most of people were shocked and amazed when they toured the exhibition of Tutankhamun articles which were the most incredible burial treasures in existence today. The body of the King has been embalmed, bandaged and fitted in eight layers of coffins with pure gold mask to represent the god Osiris. Among eight layers of coffins, one is pure solid gold in mummiform, two of mummiforms are made of compact wood covered with sheets of gold and inlaid with multi-colored glass-paste and semi-precious stones. The Egyptian belived that the soul continued to exist throughout eternity if it had passed on examination of its deeds on earth at a "Last Judgement" presided over by Osiris. They also believed that the mummified body could exist in the tomb as a habitation that the soul could revisited. Thus a proper burial was vital for a full existence in the hereafter. They buried dead person in the sealed vault of the tomb with some of the possessions he had used during his life time, such as his furniture, clothing and jewels. In this studies, I've tried to research to various clothings, and accessories with their symbols used during 18th dynasty king, Tutankhamun. The studies are shown as: I) Clothings of Tutankhamun dynasity of Kalasiris, Sheath skirt. Gala skirt, Loin skirt, Hike and Dalmatic. The Dalmatic was first seen in this dynasty. Probably the Roman Christian borrowed the Dalmatica from Egyptian Dalmatic. No where has the same design at the period. II) Egyptian of 18th dynasty Tutankhamun wore big headdress, broad collar necklace passium, pendants, armlets, rings and earrings with very beautiful, exquisite handcraft. They seem the first people who wore earrings in Egyptian history. III) The symbols of decorated items vulture, lotus...Upper Egypt Uraeus, papyrus...Lower Egypt scaravaeus, Nile Riber...rebirth man(Ankh), +...eternal life solar disc, gold...sun ostrich-feather...nobleness God, Horus' eye...protection against enemy IV) Also Egyptian prefered the straight line and a right angle which were the basic principles of architectural arrangement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.69-85
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• 2007

Despite the recovery of consumer expenditure and retailing in the Korean economy after 2001, the domestic apparel industry has been aggravated by negative growth in both productivity and production. The purpose of the stud? is to diagnose the develop competitive of the Korean apparel industry and derive implications for this after estimating the efficiency of the Korean apparel companies with Data Envelopment Analysis. Data Envelopment Analysis(DEA) is a methodology based in non-parametric analysis and linear programming. It was developed for measuring the relative efficiency of a set of firms that use inputs to produce outputs. Data used fer input and output variables in the analysis are drawn from financial statement recorded by the Korean Financial Supervisory Service. The initial input data comprise the number fo the employees, fixed assets, general management and selling expenses, and cost of sales. The initial outputs are the operating profit and the gross margin. To summary the results, the efficiencies of the Korean apparel companies has increased yearly in spite of being overabundance of investment in Labour and Capital. According to correlation between input and output variables, the Korean apparel industry has been revamping gradually from labor intensive industries to the capital. The companies need to reduce costs in the results from the number of employees, fixed asset and cost of sales to transform into an efficiently enterprise. The companies owning or obtaining a brand had bitter establish an outsourcing strategic in production, while OEM corporations are called far setting up a manufactory in domestic or abroad. Although the paper is derived some implications with production efficiencies, the relation between apparel companies and brand power, consumption level of consumer, and social trend is remained on a limitation to the study. The next research necessitates a topic with Fashion industry or examining the correlation between brand value, social propensity and profit margin.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.49-61
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• 2007

The subject of study concerns the color characteristics of clothing/accessories from �Chosun�a nd modern Korea. It particularly focuses on the colors of the �Jeogori? traditional jacket) which represents Korean traditional clothing. Color data were collected from 353 woman�s �Jegori�s from �Chosun�a nd modern Korea and divided into the predominant colors & sub colors, and analyzed with HV/C and PCCS. According to the analysis, the representative the predominant color of 'Chosun Jeogori' for woman is YR, Y and side one is R, YR. The p, dp, sf, ltg colors are frequently found and the freshness of most of them is medium or low which shows a calm-feeling. The p, and ltg tones are often found as a the predominant color and p, dp are also often found as a the side color. In the 'Chosun Jeogori' for woman, the predominant colors and the side colors spread in a similar frequency and most of them have medium or low freshness of the color that shows a calm-feeling. The side color is one of the R colors and it shows characteristics of traditional coloring such as �Jajoo Goreum? Among the �Jeogori�f or modern women, the R, YR, Y, and B colors are often used for the single-color �Jeogori? the Y, GY, N, G colors are for the colorful �Jeogori? The P, lt, and b tons of the color are often used for a single-color �Jeogori�a nd the p, lt, and W are for the colorful �Jeogori? For the colorful �Jeogori? the side color have a high freshness which shows that a strong image was used frequently as the dp, s, dk tons of the color were often used. According to an analysis of the coloring, the predominant color and the side color of �Chosun Jeogori�a re applied to create a harmony of analogy & contrast in one aspect of Moon & Spencer�s view. It is found that the predominant color and the side color are similar or contrasting in one view of the color harmony, except that the traditional the �Jeogori�i s colored by ideological and symbolic meanings. The predominant color and the side color of modern the �Jeogori�a re complementary colors which are applied to the indistinct relationship or contrasting harmony in one aspect of Moon & Spencer�s view of the color harmony. The characteristics of the color as above show that traditional the �Jeogori�r egards the side color as both the harmony of the colors in general and also of symbolic meaning, while modern the �Jeogori�f or woman has a tendency toward a cultural transition and is mixed with new colors focusing more on its the predominant color than on the general harmony and character of ideological & traditional coloring.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.249-268
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• 1995

Parody has recently prevailed as one of the important techniques of creation in art. The purposes of this study are to reaffirm the pos-ition of fashion as an art by clarifying parody depicted in fashion and to make an opportunity to reconsider the meaning of creation in fashion design through the significance of par-ody. For these purposes, documentary studies about parody in literature and art which had been discussed more often were preceded as a framework of this research. framework of this research. Basedd upon that, parody phenomena in fashion as well as art were analyzed. The synthetic results are as follows ; 1. Parody is a kind or critical technique and can be conceived as a process of creation. The established primary style (material) which is well-known and familiar is imitated and then is recreated in new manner through the three types of parodization, that is, the change of its external form, the change of its internal mean-ing and the shift from its place (i.e. displace-ment). 2. Parody in fashion is also analyzed based upon the three types of parodization which designer's will and expression is necessarily required. First, the parody through the change of external form is to have its effect of novelty, unexpectedness, playfulness, wit, mackery, satire, irony, paradox by changing the form of the original through imitation with similarity, transformation, exaggeration, em-phasis. Second, the parody through the change of internal meaning is to bring about paradox, irony, contempt, satire, unex-pectedness by applying the original to inappro-priate subject through its substitution, inver-sion. Third, the parody through displacement is to pursue a jarring incongruity that results from shifting the original to other context. Its effect consists of paradox, unexpectedness, playfulness, ridicule, mockery, satire, irony. In general, the parody technique in fashion can be used to have an intention of expressing seriousness, playfulness, satire, grotesque. The representative designers using the parody technique are Lagerfeld, Ricci, YSL, Yama-moto, Castelbajac, Gaultier, Mugler, West-sood, Steiner and so on. 3. Parody is the technique which imitates and then recreates the preceding style ; is at the same time the method which challenges the existing concept of originality-singleness and uniqueness. It reflects the more flexible concept of modern creation in art as well as fashion. The imitation as the creation, the characteristic of parody is recognized as an creative expressiveness, publicity, intention. Thus it differenciates from copy which is uncritical mimicry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.181-199
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• 1999

The industry of modern clothing has deviated from the overflow of commercialism and the standardization and nowadays is going toward pursuing art, creativity, and high added value. This trend brings the return of the natural materials from the synthetic textiles and increases the value of old and handmade fabrics. Finally, the handmade-paper, which is a natural material, comes to be reconsidered as a new material for the clothing. Therefore, as the natural materials and the manufacture of handmade clothing are rising again, the qualitative improvement and globalization of clothing industry should be first realized through the developments of creative and various clothing materials and new expressing techniques. The above investigation and study have been synthesized and analyzed as follows: First, through the study on the origin of the paper clothing, its historical background and the process of its development, we've learned these two facts following : the paper clothing of the East in the past mostly had practiced meanings. On the other hand, in the West it had meanings which were raised the artist's emotions and beauty-consciousness to the artistic level by the various kinds of expressing methods. Second, handmade-paper was manufactured by the embedding method, which mixed mulberry pulp, gauze, corn, hair, sisal, silk and so on. It was found that handmade-paper had the affluent and proper texture as the clothing material and was be able to control the clarity through the variation of thickness. It was also confirmed that the creative and original texture with hand-worked molding beauty was obtained by the use of handmade-paper. Third, when the handmade-paper is used, the molding beauty of plane, relievo, and solid can be freely pursued, and various and effective molding conformation can be constructed by the effect of superposition and repetition. Also, because the maximum discretion from the various optional manufacturing methods is allowed, the molding beauty can be maximized when the clothes are manufactured with handmade-paper. Fourth, the gauze with strong drape was combined to overcome the stiffness and the tearing of the paper. As a result, the durability and the wearability of the paper were strengthened and thus the thus the applications as the clothing material were enlarged. In conclusion, in order to enhance the value, creativity, practicality, and artistic sense of the design for modern clothing, the clothes made of handmade-paper should be more studied. Moreover, for the generalization of paper clothes, the studies on the development of practical paper with paper with water resistance, post-treatment after dyeing, flexibility, and durability should be done. I really hope that this study will be the motive to provoke the possibility of handmade-paper as new clothing material in not only practical sense but also artistic sense.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.35-48
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• 2003

The primary goal of this study is to define the future image of modern fashion. By review of many references, this study has examined predictable future in common, various researches on future, and futurism that appeared from art history. This study has also identified the trend of future image and the properties of the image in terms of fashion as well. The purpose of this study is defined as future image of modern fashion. First of all. through a large literature, this study is to examine general future and the study of future, to investigate futurism appears from art history. and to identify the trend of future image and the properties of the image in terms of fashion. The main results of this study include : 1) General future means forthcoming sometime or a state of life at that time, and future is not drawing near naturally in accordance with the passage of time. The future is developed according as which the owners of time have independent meaning and what they select. 2) The futurism had started with the background based on Darwins and Einsteins scientific theories and Bergsons and Nietzsches philosophical thoughts, which was then established by Marinettis Futurism Statement and Dynamism Theory of Umberto Boccionio, Giaomo Balla, Luigi Russolo and Gino Severini. As the purpose of futurism is to represent the dynamism of machinery and the beauty of speed, it has been developed toward op art and kinetic art including video art, laser art, and holography. 3) Fashion style and trend of futurism from the beginning of 20th century up to now can be defined as follows : Firstly futurism fashion represented by loud colors and geometric pattern appeared from 1910s to 1930s in the first place. Secondly, or art fashion and kinetic fashion appeared in 1960s due to the influence of op art and kinetic art which were developmental arts of futurism paintings. Space Look and Cosmo Corps Look that were designed by Andre Courreges, Pierre Cardin, Rudi Gernreich and Paco Rabanne, were also the trend of future image fashion. Thirdly, various materials and techniques developed this future image fashion in 1980s, and Glitter Look and Collage Look were its representative style. Fourthly, in 1990s, human beings dreamed the freedom of mind by human-oriented thought. and created the ecology of new concept mixed with technology due to anxiety on environmental destruction. which influenced on the advent of Zen style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.3
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• pp.108-125
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic information necessary to develop sports uniform design by comparing and analyzing the color features and images of professional football uniforms in Korea and foreign countries. The subjects of this study were limited to 5 top leagues in Europe (Premier League, Primera Liga, Bundesliga, Serie A, and Ligue 1) as well as J-League, and K-League. This study was done using the 2012/2013 season home and away uniforms for European leagues and 2013 season home and away uniforms for Korean and Japan leagues. Using the Adobe photoshop CS2 eyedropper tool, color chips and RGB values were extracted from digital images and converted into HV/C of Munsell Conversion. Finally, a total of 735 colors were used for the analysis. The color image scale by Shigenobu Kobayashi was used to position the color images. The results are as follows. First, the color analysis of professional football uniforms in leagues suggested that chromatic color (53.7%) was more prevalent than achromatic color (46.3%). The two most common colors of the ten chromatic colors were R(19.7%) and PB(18.0%), followed by Y(5.4%), RP(2.0%), G(1.9), GY(1.8%), B(1.6%), YR(1.5%), P(1.1%), and BG(0.7%). Second, for the color tone comparison and analysis of professional football uniforms in leagues, the most commonly used color tone was W(28.4%), followed by v(25.5%), Bk(16.3%), s(5.8%), dk(5.2%), b/lt(5.2%), dp(3.0%), sf(2.0%), ltGy(1.0%), p(0.5%), G/dkGy(0.4%), and ltg/mGy (0.1%). Third, for the comparison and analysis of color and color tone of professional football uniforms in leagues, W(28.4%), R(v)(17.7%), and Bk(16.3%) were commonly used. Finally, for the comparison and analysis of color images of professional football uniforms in leagues, the most commonly used color image was a casual image(31.8%), followed by modern image(26.5%), dynamic12.8%), cool casual(12.0%), gorgeous(9.3%), clear(6.6%), chic(3.5%), and elegant images. Dandy, classical, romantic and pretty images(0.4% respectively) were also used.