• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.63-78
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to propose the scientific and rational establishment of research projects and directions for research by analyzing the research trends on clothing construction. The 689 papers in the field of clothing construction are selected among 5433 papers published within the recent ten years (1996-2005) in Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean society of costumes, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing Industry and Journal of Fashion Business. The trend of researches on clothing construction is analyzed by classifying the topics by design, body type, pattern, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, and the others, and the results are as follows. The frequency order of the studies in the field of clothing construction is body type (32%) > pattern (24%) > size of apparel (13%) > protective clothing and functional clothing (10%) > the others (8%) > design-related clothing construction (6%) > fitting of clothing (4%) > sewing (3%). The major areas of research are body types, pattern, and sizes resulting from them. Most of researches are focused on women, and researches on men are relatively lacking. In addition to the deficiency of men-related research, Moreover, researches on characteristics of body types and on corresponding sizes of consumers in the target countries of export are necessary when the reality of Korean clothing and fashion industry that depends more on foreign demand than domestic demand is considered. For production of segmented and specialized results from clothing construction research, related tools such as CAD, 3D shape systems and dress form should be developed and utilized to contribute to precision of research results.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.86-99
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• 2019

This research is a study on up cycling design to protect nature in order to postpone global warming to the maximum extent possible as it has been a serious global issue to the fashion industry and even to individual consumers. This research focuses on the ways to use wedding dress, one of the clothes made of synthetic fiber, which is a major cause of global warming. Among clothing from the 19th century, two styles of clothes, Bustle style and Art Nouveau style were analyzed ranging from their underwear styles to outwear styles through collections in books and museums. Two styles of dress using drawers, chemise, and corset as basic underwears were manufactured. All the fabric and subsidiary materials except for parts of underwears were made with discarded wedding dresses. It was developed for rental clothing which women could try on Western costume, from underwears to outwears. First, for bustle dress, woman put on basic underwears, then bustle, and bustle-type petticoat. Dress is a two-piece type, and it was made to put on detachable train on the back of skirt. Second, based on the Art Nouveau style clothes, our-glass style dress consists of petticoat, one-piece over drawers, chemise, and corset. After putting on drawers, both chemise, and corset were the same as Bustle Style. This research is a practical way of realizing sustainable design. The aim of the current work is to provide educational effect on the development of rental clothes which upcycle wedding dress and let women experience other cultures.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.343-348
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• 2024

Today, AI image creation programs are optimized for various and specialized purposes such as fashion product advertising, customized fashion style suggestions, and design development, and are actively utilized in the fashion industry. Meanwhile, color is a powerful formative element and plays an important role in expressing images for suggesting products or fashion styles. This study seeks to expand understanding of the use of Midjourney by identifying the characteristics of color combinations that appear in clothing images created using Midjourney among AI image creation tools. The results of this study are as follows. First, the initial image created in Midjourney reflects the existing image color used to create the image more than the color specified in the command. Second, the color combinations that appear in the clothes of the images created in Midjourney are divided into separate and mixed colors. The ratio of colors expressed in a separate color scheme is affected by the color order specified in the command. The number of colors combined in a mixed color scheme appears as a combination of fewer colors than the total number of colors of clothing in the existing image used to create the image in Midjourney and the number of colors specified in the command. Third, caution is needed because changes in background color can affect the user's color perception of the clothes in the image and the formation of the costume image. It is hoped that the results of this study will be helpful in fashion design education and practice.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.94-114
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• 2001

Men's Po of (he Chosun period became simple and stable in shape as the nation moved from its early to late period. Re lines of the external structure of the clothing shows the beauty of the garment. Re lines generally derive their beauty from curved lines, gradually replacing the straight lines of the earlier part of the Chosun period. The linear beauty of the external structure of men's Po is found in the outline and silhouette. Generally in the early Chosun period it could be seen that H-shaped silhouettes, narrowed strips and flexible drapes descending to the ankles were still in use from the period of the Koryo dynasty And in the 17th century, or the mid Chosun period, considerable numbers of H-shaped drapes with wide sleeves and side Moo were seen. At the beginning of the 18th century, voluminous A-shaped outlines appeared. From the late Chosun period through the mid and late Chosun period, or the 18th and 19th centuries, the from silhouette changed from voluminous A-shapes to narrower H-shapes. The beauty of the lines of the external structure of men's Po is due to its harmonising with the straight body lines of men. The straight Git of the early Chosun period harmonises beautifully with the straight Baerae and Doryun and the curved Git of the later Chosun period similarly harmonises with the curved Baerae and Doryun lines. The shape of men's Po has a balance betweon right and left, centering around the Sup lines. The sleeves have the balanced beauty of vertical lines. Git and Sup have beauty through the balance of oblique and straight lines while Baerae and Doryun have similar balances through curves. Jikrung, Chulik, Dapho's side Moo, coat strings, Doryun and sleeves drape, all of which are manufactured by means of plane cutting, Pow together beautifully. Re Git, Sup, and the silhouette and drape of men's Po, which are also manufactured through plane cutting, make the wearer look tall and at the same time express the beauty of mature manhood. The linear beauty shown in men's Po during the Chosun Period have beauty through harmonizing with straight and curved lines, beauty balance, beauty of flow, beutity of emphasis and beauty of optical illusion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.35-49
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• 2014

In cases of fashion businesses operating by consignment, base estimate on quantity of sales is the most essential part of merchandising. This study classified factors influential to sales into factors with systematic influence and factors with unsystematic influence. In order to find out influence of each factor on sales, non-linear regression was used with SPSS package on the basis of actual data on sales for 5 years for sport shoes brand. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, price level had significant negative(-) influence on sales. Second, price expectation effects had significant negative(-) influence on sales. Third, competitor's price effect showed significant negative(-) value. Fourth, day-of-the-week effect showed significant positive(+) effect. The theoretical marketing implications of this study are as follows. First, study on price leads to expansion of the researches from apparels to sport shoes. Field of study on price was enlarged through expansion of variable of study from price level and price expectation effect to promotion, day-of-the-week effect and rainfall effect. Second, quantitative scale of day-of-the-week effect was found and it could be confirmed that there was seasonal differences with day-of-the-week effect. Implications of above findings on marketing managers are as follows. First, it was found that an increase in competitiveness of brand power and a decline in absolute value of competitor's price effect can be realized when new product groups are developed to meet the unsatisfied needs in the market. Second, it was possible to find out the parameters scales of the price response function, making it possible to estimate sales for the next season, and in turn realize increase in rate of sales and profit rate. This research is based on the dynamic price response function, which is rare to find in the apparel business and it academic significance due to its expanding response model which was focused on price in conventional researches to non-systematic variables.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.895-911
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to examine consumers' perceptions of eco-friendly children's-wear and their impact on the selection criteria for children's-wear and stores. A descriptive survey method using a self-administered questionnaire was employed. The sample consisted of mothers with children under the age of 13 residing in Seoul and the Gyeonggi area. Data were collected from September 2011 to October, 2011. The collected data were analyzed to find the differences between purchasers and non-purchasers of eco-friendly children's-wear in terms of their perceptions of eco-friendly children's-wear, as well as the influence of these perceptions on the consideration degree of criteria for the selection of children's wear and store. The results indicate that perceptions of eco-friendly children's-wear implied five key factors related to quality reliability, expected value, style, degree of recognition, and dissatisfaction with design and price. The results also revealed some differences between the group purchasing eco-friendly children's-wear and the group not purchasing eco-friendly children's-wear. These different perceptions were related to the aspects of quality reliability, expected value, style, degree of recognition. In general, the non-purchasing group displayed a lower mean score than the purchasing group. Both groups showed a low interest in aesthetic appreciation and the degree of recognition factor. The results showed that consumer's perceptions of eco-friendly children's-wear had an influence on the criteria for the selection of children's-wear and store type in both groups. Considering the findings of the study, it is clear that both purchasers and non-purchasers of eco-friendly children's-wear showed differences in their perceptions and purchasing behavior. Therefore, marketing strategies to appeal to the non-purchasing group should be differentiated from strategies used to ensure the loyalty of the purchasing group.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.1
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• pp.106-122
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• 2014

This study is based on the official Chinese history of the ancient Korean(中國正史朝鮮傳) clothing and ornaments, and also tries to discover, study, and adjust the system of the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. Ancient Korea has very poor official records of its clothing and ornaments. Therefore, this study had no choice but to rely on the official Chinese history to cover for the lack of resources. The official Chinese history documents are not only important for studying ancient Korean history, but also important for studying about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. This research selected historical documents about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments from fifteen different Chinese dynasties' official documents, and then systematically classified the documents in order to compare them. All these processes confirmed the following subjects. In regards to the Kwan(冠: general hat), the hat types included Check, Byun(弁), Jeol-poong(折風), Jowoo-Kwan(鳥羽冠), So-gol(蘇骨), and Na-kwan(羅冠). These Kwan(冠) were influenced from Chinese clothing and ornaments. Gold and silver decorations on the Kwan(冠) were influenced from the Scythai culture. The feather decorations on the hat were residual of the bird worshiping culture or the hunting lifestyle. These things show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the North. But the use of Jo-woo(bird feather) was common around the globe in many ways during the ancient times, regardless of area and period. The official Chinese history describes men's hair style as Choo-gyul (椎結) or sometimes pronounced, Choo-gyul(椎結). These seem to describe the topknot. Women had various types of hair styles such as Yu-byun-bal-su-hu (wear women's hair in a braid). The official Chinese history show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the north. The ancient Korean clothing and ornaments influenced and were influenced by its neighboring countries.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.35-47
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• 2013

We know that humans are able to live comfortably when there is a balance between the living environment that surrounds us and us. Clothing, one of the necessities of life, serves a dual purpose of functioning as protection for the body as well as providing visual satisfaction, and so is the most effective bonding mechanism. A different type of comfort that has been provided through industrialization and advancements in technology has resulted in pollution problems in the environment, and it has reached a point of seriously thinking about its effects. The biggest problems in environmental pollution are air pollution and waste disposal, and something that cannot be ignored is that environmental hormones and harmful heavy metals have been discovered in the synthetic dyes used in the clothing product, and not only are they harmful to the body, but they also have adverse effects on skin allergies such as atopic dermatitis. Its effects on clothing, especially underwear and baby products, can become a serious issue. The use of natural vegetable dye can be considered the basis for the traditional Korean dyeing process, however not all natural dyeing process can be thought of as traditional Korean dyeing. This is because natural dyeing used to be the most common method of dyeing before synthetic dyes came along and became the dye of choice for most clothing. Natural dyes are beneficial to the body, and the nature colors, achieved from the natural materials, relieve eye strains as well as have a healing effect for people who are suffering from psychological instability such as stress. However, the use of mordant in order to increase the fastness and get better color effects can lead to even more damage to the environment, and it cannot be a dyeing method that is good for the body. Traditional natural dyeing is different from regular natural dyeing because it uses colors that the Korean people can identify with and applies specific methods in order to achieve those colors. Even though experimental study with dyestuff and practical use of the dyeing methods for traditional Korean dyeing has been started(Soh, H., 1983) and has been ongoing, it is still not easy for regular people to use the method on their own. At the present time, natural dye materials are getting made and sold more than ever, but there is a lot of confusion among consumers regarding the difference between traditional Korean dyeing and natural dyeing, as companies are using the two terms interchangeably to market their natural dye products. So getting a better understanding of the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing and traditional colors should be considered first priority at this time. The purpose of this thesis is to study the traditional Korean view of color, which developed the culture of traditional dyeing in Korea, and the characteristics of traditional Korean dyeing, a method that pursued achieving Korea's color through natural dyeing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.152-166
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• 2009

By virtue of the development of mass media, the cinema, the composite space art taking the visual and auditory elements together, exhibits the actual life of the realities, thereby having a mutually close relationship to social, cultural and economic fields and continuing to generate the fashion code as well as reflecting the image of the times. Especially, fashion style in movies delivers their image and atmosphere and becomes the means for containing the personality, spiritual world and inner thinking of the characters in the movie and inducing its plot. Therefore, this study was intended to make clear that fashion fuses and shares with a diversity of genres such as movies and the like, becomes the cultural model that proceeds to create a new culture in relation to daily life and induces and presents the trend of contemporary fashion. For this purpose, this study attempted to analyze fashion style in the movie. Lolita is the fiction published by the Russian?American writer Vladimir Nabokov($1899{\sim}1977$) in 1954. It is the fiction that portrays the unethical love between Humbert, a middleaged man, and Lolita, a girl in her 10s. It was cinematized by the director Stanley Kubrick for the first time in 1962 and revived by the movie director Adrian Lyne in 1997. The character of Lolita has a younger look like a girl and looks immature in the movie directed by the movie director Stanley Kubrick and the movie director Adrian Lyne. But the character of Lolita has the commonality that she showed an incomplete female image of having a sexually freewheeling thinking. Thereby, this study sought to prove that the created fashion style of the character in the film not only became the clue to enable us to know the time and space background in the film but also helped the film develop effectively by performing a role of portraying the character in the movie. And it attempted to present that it becomes both the foundation for leading the fashion trend shown in contemporary fashion and the code of mass culture. Fashion style of Lolita in the movie appears to be reflected diversely in mass culture as well as fashion style in the contemporary times.