• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.737-752
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to understand the medieval culture and medieval religious costume by analysing and grasping the formative characteristics of image of medieval religious costume in the modern fashion that were represented to the modern fashion, and also to offer materials to predict the history of fashion in the future by considering the progress of modern fashion and recognizing the fashion to be progress. To examine the image of medieval religious costume in the modern fashion, this thesis divided it into avant-garde image, symbolic image, and mysterious image. These can be summarized as follows. First, in avant-garde image, the harmony between characteristic eroticism and heterogeneous materials are expressed and the formative change of religious costume into general costume are expressed. Second, in symbolic image, the symbolic meanings of the medieval clergy man's costume is expressed in modem fashion while its religious meanings and senses are expressed with symbolic image. Third, in mysterious image, the abundant and profound lights and colors express the mysterious senses of the costume and sanctity applied with mosaic painting and stained glass techniques, utilizing the splendor jewelry, spangle and materials, and most of its image reflects exotic and embellish tendency. As a result, this thesis could be described as follows; Previous religious costume of clergy man was used as a mediator between general devotee and God in ceremony, and it was worn by the general devotee to express devotion. This religious costume was utilized in modem fashion, and it gave the avant-garde image and symbolic image of religion. In addition to it, mysterious image was expressed with exotic and embellish tendency.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.18-35
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to offer a holistic description of the role demanded of costume designers to provide qualitative improvement of costume designs for small- and medium-sized musicals. The study accomplishes this by analyzing the relationship between the play and costume design in musicals and also by examining the process and environments in which costumes of small-sized theater companies' original musicals are produced. The methods of study are empirical research of literature related to dress, stage art, and culture & arts from both domestic and foreign publications; research of visual materials related to plays; and production and analysis of theatrical performances in which the researcher has participated as a costume designer. The results of the study are as follows. First, professionalism of the play and visual perfection of the work may be enhanced by costume designers actively participating in meetings with staff from each field of the play. Second, by taking advantage of the unique aspects of the work environment of small-sized theater companies' small- and medium-sized original musicals, such as harsh situations of regular and periodical meetings with all staff member, the designer may consider the director's intentions and concepts of the play, but should display more creative and autonomous design abilities. Third, because the costume designers of small- and medium-sized original musical plays are given a small budget and short production periods, the ability to systematically manage budget and production periods and the ability to flexibly handle unexpected incidents during the play is essential.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.83-95
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• 2011

Today, a variety performance premiered in Korea, works of art as an advanced production planning and production system is becoming. Accordingly, the field of stage costume also increased collaboration with foreign producers and production systems and the advancement of the stage costume are required are becoming. The opening performance of the 30th anniversary of the Seoul Theater Festival was selected as Towol Theater Theater in 2009, April 16 to 26 of Picasso's women's costume is the study of production systems. This work directing and stage design by inviting domestic producers from foreign fields, and co-authored the work in the field of stage costumes in collaboration with foreign producers that are worth study and research work. In this study, this work has a practical study of costumes throughout the production system, an advanced stage costumes to contribute to the development of the field. The research methodology book data, collected papers, Internet resources through research and theoretical studies play 'Picasso's women's stage production of the award total to an empirical study was undertaken. The results of this study are as follows. First, the costume director for making a scholarly grasp of the direction of the investigation is ongoing throughout the process of creating the costumes. Second, foreign producers and co-author of the stage when the award, if other than purely domestic producers and create costumes to build production systems. Third, foreign producers and co-costume design and costume making coherent explanation for the processing of the list(Costume Breakdown List) are developed. Fourth, the actual performance over the director's intention to visualize the presentation was good enough, and the idea of the costume crew was taken to the director's idea of directing a play that reflected the will has a big meaning.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권6호
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• pp.141-159
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• 2005

Targeting a film that is the medium of having powerful influence upon the masses, the present study examined about a role and characteristics in the movie costume, and a role of costume designers, which are shown in process of being changed the film costume. There are many designers who were in charge of the film costume, but the present study examined centering on designers who participated aiming to create the image of a character from the stage of manufacturing a movie. It presented and analyzed visual materials by dividing four genres such as a historical drama movie, a horror movie, a fantasy movie, and a modern-play movie, and by selecting a typical work. A Historical drama movie needs to be investigated costume by the historical background in a movie, but inside it was shown clothes that were elaborately reproduced and newly created. A horror movie plays a role of medium that reflects the human society and the internal mentality of a human being along with the attribute of entertainment. As a genre that requires much costume, make-up and special effect aiming at dramatic effect, a role of film costume possesses great weight. As a fantasy movie is a field based on 'fiction' of a writer who creates a work, it is a field that requires creativity of a costume designer most. As a modern-play movie is what reproduces reality, it best reflects the phases of that time, and is the field that is influenced by costume or fashion trend. Costume needs to be designed in a bid to allow spectators to be inspired the wholly united and harmonious mood with leading a story of a movie, and the individual image.

• 복식
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• 제58권10호
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• pp.1-20
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristic of modern Tap dance costume according to its origin and kinds. For this purpose, the study explored the review of literature focusing on the historical back ground of Tap dance and investigated into the kinds of modern tap dance and the formative feature of the tap dance costume. Costumes of leading tap dancers in representative performances and movies are analyzed. The results are summarized as follows: The kinds of current tap dance could be categorized as three types of Jazz Tap Dance, Rhythm & Funk Tap Dance, Irish tap Dance as their development origin. The Tap dance widely distributed through the U.S. Hollywood movie, The Jazz Tap Dance costume was composed of magnificent and luxurious design applying the high fashion of the 1930s and 1950s in the male and female costumes. The U.S. Blacks' tap dance, Rhythm & Funk Tap costume had a close relation with resistant blacks' culture, and showing the type of free dressing not bound by previous tap dance dress. The Irish Tap Dance originated from Irish folk dance displayed the tap dance embroidered costume using the Irish traditional pattern. This study systemized the characteristic of the tap dance costume by kind, and explored the dress revealed at the tap dance as a symbolic system to the cultural zone where the dance is made.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.664-676
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• 2001

This study highlights the homogeneity in the heritage of the costume cultures between the Gulf of Aden, a part of the Horn region of Africa and the Arab region of West. Asia. Specifically, a cross-cultural perspective is used to examine the similarities between the two regions based on their (1) geographic living cultures and (2) the use of a costume accessory called Burga-a face veil. The current trend in research on the traditional costume culture of Africa mostly ties art with the traditional costume culture and examines its from an aesthetic or animalism perspective rather than from a cross cultural Perspective. Compared to Previous research in this area this study used literature reviews and Pictorial analysis to analyze costume cultures from a cross-cultural perspective. The Burga, which is worn in the low lands of the Horn region, which is located between the West Asia and African continents, as well as the Arab region, shows a reciprocal cultural exchange between the two regions. Similarities can be found in the shape, design, decorative elements, and the way the Bursa was worn in two regions. Although the Burga as a face veil is only a small part of a costume, it reaffirms the similar living cultures and geographic characteristics of the two regions. As the living culture environment becomes similar around the world, this study should help with cross culture negotiations as well as forther the development of traditional costume research.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.229-243
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• 2016

This article has significance in that it examines origin and developments of Baekje costume based on the validity of the reference material that can be used to infer the look of Baekje costume. On the basis of literature documents in Korea and China the shapes of it are examined, and the reliability of contents recorded in the sources is lexically reviewed. Errors related with features of the Baekje costume is minimized by investigating controversial issues in terms of periods and some parts which cannot be identified as the shapes of it. The changing aspects of the Baekje costume by flow of time can be observed based on various records in the literatures. The origin of it can be found in records regarding the costumes of Mahan and Buyeo. Baekje inherited the separate-type of costume structure from before the period of it, and possessed superior weaving technology. In the 3th century, the Baekje costume seemed to be established, and gradually developed from 4th to 5th century. As it continued to be developed, its frame was accomplished at the late 6th century. The shapes of it appeared to be further elaborated, specified, and therefore systematized in the 7th century.

• 복식
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• 제52권8호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2002

The object of this research is to know the characteristics of design for stage costume design through experiencing production of costume design of Mascani's opera "Cavalleria Rusticana" and to know the effect of stage costume at real performance. Background of times and characteristics were reviewed by analyzing opera. And reference regarding Mascani's opera "Cavalleria Rusticana" and script, and image data analysis and interview with director were also done. Ethnic costume in Sicily in southern Italy was reviewed at conception step. and design was embodied by analyzing character of each person based on this analysis. Form of character. motion and vocalization were considered at actual production step, and stage effect was analysed by considering lighting, stage background, and combination of color on costume between characters through real performance. The above conclusion could present professional and systematic methodology in designing opera and other stage costumes. And this research can also be a contribution in these days when interest for theatrical art. along with importance of stage costume, plays a key role in modern art. role in modern art.

• 복식
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• 제52권8호
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• pp.55-71
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to identify a basic meaning of humor from the costume expressing cartoon image, to grasp the status of contemporary costume, and also to supply people with a database related to the sphere of costume design. This was done by analyzing and examining humor of the costume expressing cartoon image in post-industrial society. Consequently, the result of this study was summarized as follows; First, humor by parody of Pop Art is recognized as humorous expression that repulsed the main current culture and post-industrial society phenomenon. Second, humor by quotation tends to appear through cartoon character. Costume which quote cartoon character is against Kidult tastes and the pre-existing authoritative prejudices in post-industrial society. Third, humor by bricolage, making bricolage with silhouette, color, pattern item, is recognized as new creation of humor In other words, it is regarded as enlargement of new esthetic consciousness and humor about instrumented gender in post-industrial society. Lastly, humor by deformation expressed itself in deformation of body image of character and cloth silhouette by cartoon image. Deformation of cloth silhouette by cartoon image, being not conscious pre-existing concept of harmony of human and costume, is recognized as humor which have characteristic of play with introduction of new silhouette. In addition to, the result of this study showed that humor expressed in cartoon image of costume has been limited to the works of few designers because of characteristics of fashion designers who made use of popularity as subjects of the works and internal meanings which were related to the characteristics of post-industrial society.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제3권
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• pp.1-11
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• 2003

This study aims to recognize the value of traditional culture and to create 'Korean style rest costume' i.e. in-door clothes for comfort's purpose designed for hotel or other tourist accommodations with its own image. In so doing, national pride and identity will be exalted for Koreans, while an opportunity of cultural expose will be provided for foreigners through the symbols of Korea, which will contribute to the international introduction and representation of Korea. First, this study investigates the external characteristics in forms and structures of Korean style rest costume. Second, questionnaires regarding consciousness of Korean style rest costume and preference in design are distributed to the hotel guest and staff-both domestic and international- to be fir out. Lastly, designed rest costume representing Korean image, based on the results of the survey. Upon investigation, users and employers both preferred two piece style which is separated to upper garment and lower garment. While employers preferred short sleeve, users preferred long sleeves. In colors, employers preferred blue while users preferred white. In garments, both of. the employers and users preferred cotton, towel and cotton flannel. In addition, when introducing rest costume, it will be efficient to distinct the strategy between natives and foreigners, and also distinguish where the rest costume will be used.