• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 2009

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, and component analysis of fermented Melissa officinalis extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract ($8.38{\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions of M. officinalis. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some M. officinalis extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_{2}O_{2}$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract ($0.63{\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of M. officinalis on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The M. officinalis extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner ($5\;{\sim}\;75{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of M. officinalis extracts on tyrosinase was investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase of some M. officinalis extracts was 50 % ethanol extract ($365{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract ($122.43{\mu}g/mL$) < ethylacetate fraction ($94.8{\mu}g/mL$). Fractions of ethyl acetate both from ordinary and fermented M. officinalis extracts showed 2 band in TLC and 2 peak in HPLC (330 nm). In HPLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction, peak 1 (51.64 %) and peak 2 (48.36 %) were identified as caffeic acid and rosmarinic acid in the order of elution time. Also, in HPLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract, peak 1 (4.13 %) and peak 2 (95.87 %) were identified as caffeic acid and rosmarinic acid in the order of elution time. These results indicate that the component and content of ordinary and fermented extracts of M. officinalis are different. And the extract of M. officinalis can be used as an antioxidant.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.33-39
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• 2009

To develop a new natural whitening agent for cosmetics, we investigated the inhibitory effects of Pogostemon cablin Bentham extracts (PCE) and its active component on melanogenesis. PCE showed ROS scavenging activities in 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and xanthine/xanthine oxidase system with the $IC_{50}$ values of $24.2{\pm}2.85{\mu}g/mL$ and $IC_{50}=118{\pm}0.43{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. PCE reduced melanin contents of B16 melanoma cells in a dose-dependant manner and decreased to about 23 % at a concentration of $20{\mu}g/mL$ without cell cytotoxicity (below $100{\mu}g/mL$). And the PCE reduced intracellular tyrosinase activity about 18 % at concentration of $50{\mu}g/mL$. We purified one active compound from PCE and identified its structure. It was identified as patchouli alcohol, sesquiterpene family, by 1H-NMR, $13_C$-NMR, and Mass analysis. Patchouli alcohol also inhibited ROS scavenging activities in DPPH radical and xanthine/xanthine oxidase system with the $IC_{50}$ values of $3.14{\pm}0.12{\mu}g/mL$ and $49{\pm}3.24{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. Patchouli alcohol inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose dependent manner ($IC_{50}=3.9{\mu}g/mL$). And the patchouli alcohol reduced intracellular tyrosinase activity about 40 % at concentration of $10{\mu}g/mL$. Patchouli alcohol inhibited tyrosinase and TRP-2 expression at protein level. These results suggest that PCE and patchouli alcohol reduced melanin formation by the inhibited of tyrosinase activity and expression in B16 melanoma cells. Therefore, we suggest that PCE could be used as a useful whitening agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.337-345
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• 2013

In this study, the antioxidative effects of Aronia melanocarpa fruit and leaf extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of the ethylacetate and aglycone fractions of fruit extracts were 16.29 ${\mu}g/mL$, and 12.29 ${\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The free radical scavenging activity of fruit extract was higher than that of leaf extracts. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of the ethylacetate and aglycone fractions of fruit extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay showed 2.86 ${\mu}g/mL$, and 1.80 ${\mu}g/mL$, respectively. ROS scavenging activity of the aglycone fraction of fruit extracts was similar to that of L-ascorbic acid (1.50 ${\mu}g/mL$). The ROS scavenging activity of fruit extracts was higher than that of leaf extracts. The cellular protective effects of aglycone fraction of fruit extracts (${\tau}_{50}$ = 72.3 min) on the $^1O_2$-induced cellular damage of human erythrocytes especially were increased in a concentration dependent manner (5 ~ 50 ${\mu}g/mL$). ${\tau}_{50}$ (72.3 min) of the aglycone fraction showed 1.9 times higher than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol (38 min), known as lipophilic antioxidant at 10 ${\mu}g/mL$. These results incidicate that A. melanocarpa fruit extracts have higher antioxidant effects than leaf extracts and could be applicable to functional cosmetics materials for antioxidants by protecting skin exposed to solar UV radiation against ROS including $^1O_2$.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.295-302
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• 2013

In this study, the antioxidative effects and inhibitory activities of unripened fruit extract of Rubus coreanus Miquel (R. coreanus Miquel) on tyrosinase were investigated and the potential applicability as a cosmeceutical ingredients was evaluated. All experiments were performed with 50% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction of unripened fruit extract of R. coreanus Miquel. The DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging activites ($FSC_{50}$) of 50% ethanol extract (6.56 ${\mu}g/mL$) and ethyl acetate fraction (6.14 ${\mu}g/mL$) of unripened fruit extract of R. coreanus Miquel were higher than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol (8.98 ${\mu}g/mL$), which is known as a typical hydrophobic antioxidant. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of 50% ethanol extract (0.83 ${\mu}g/mL$), ethyl acetate fraction (0.84 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction (1.13 ${\mu}g/mL$) of R. coreanus Miquel on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were higher than L-ascorbic acid (1.5 ${\mu}g/mL$), which is known as s typical hydrophilic antioxidant. The cellular protective effect of extract and fraction of unripened fruit extract of R. coreanus Miquel on the rose bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes was increased in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 50 ${\mu}g/mL$). And 50% ethanol extract in 50 ${\mu}g/mL$ showed the most protective effect among extracts (${\tau}_{50}$ = 296.3 min). The inhibitory effects on tyrosinase of ethyl acetate and agylcone fractions were higher than arbutin. These results indicate that unripened fruit extracts of R. coreanus Miquel can be applied to antioxidant scavenging ROS including radical as an alternative whitening agent to replace arbutin.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.545-551
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• 2017

Curcuma longa L. (CL) is widely used as a spice and coloring agent in several foods, such as curry and mustard, as well as cosmetics and drugs. In this study, we investigated the protective effects of CL extracted with various solvents [methanol (MC), ethanol (EC), acetone (AC)] on $H_2O_2-induced$ DNA damage in human leukocytes along with total polyphenol contents (TPC) and antioxidant properties. The antioxidant effects of CL were determined by measuring 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity (RSA) and superoxide dismutase (SOD)-like activity. The preventive effect of CL on oxidative stress-induced DNA damage and DNA repair capacities were assessed using comet assay. MC showed the highest TPC (11.17 g gallic acid equivalents/100 g) and antioxidant properties among the solvent extracts. The $SC_{50}$ for DPPH RSA was MC: 35.0 > AC: 45.8 > EC: $57.8{\mu}g/mL$ and SOD-like activity was MC: 46.6 > EC: 141.5 > AC: $296.4{\mu}g/mL$. In the comet assay, the $ED_{50}$ value of MC showed the highest inhibition ($86.7{\mu}g/mL$) of $H_2O_2-induced$ DNA damage, followed by AC ($110.0{\mu}g/mL$) > EC ($115.8{\mu}g/mL$). Analysis of the percentage of damaged cells showed that repair capacity significantly decreased at 4, 8, and 12 h from $H_2O_2-induced$ oxidative stress in each extract. After 12 h, level of DNA damage recovery was similar to the negative control level. These results suggest that CL has potential antioxidant activity and a protective effect against oxidation-induced DNA damage, and the methanol extract of CL was the most effective.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.517-524
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• 2011

Eleven polyphenolic compounds, including procatechuic and chlorogenic acids, (+)-dihydroquercetin, rutin, isoquercitrin, quercitrin, (+)-dihydrokaempferol, trans-resveratrol, moracin, quercetin and 4-prenylmoracin were isolated and purified from the methanolic extract of defatted mulberry seed residue by a series of column chromatography including silica gel, Sephadex LH-20, and ODS-A, and their chemical structures were identified by spectral analysis. The antioxidant activities of the eleven isolated polyphenolic compounds were measured spectrophotometrically using DPPH radical. Among the eleven polyphenolic compounds tested, rutin ($IC_{50}=20.2\;{\mu}M$), isoquercitrin ($IC_{50}=22.5\;{\mu}M$), quercitrin ($IC_{50}=24.6\;{\mu}M$), quercetin ($IC_{50}=27.8\;{\mu}M$), (+)-dihydroquercetin ($IC_{50}=28.9\;{\mu}M$), and chlorogenic acid ($IC_{50}=30.6\;{\mu}M$) exhibited stronger antioxidant activity than L-ascorbic acid ($IC_{50}=31.5\;{\mu}M$) and ${\alpha}$-tocopherol ($IC_{50}=52.3\;{\mu}M$), whereas procatechuic acid ($IC_{50}=68.2\;{\mu}M$) showed lower activity. In addition, (+)-dihydrokaempferol ($IC_{50}=33.8\;{\mu}M$), trans-resveratrol ($IC_{50}=36.2\;{\mu}M$), moracin ($IC_{50}=47.6\;{\mu}M$), and 4-prenylmoracin ($IC_{50}=48.2\;{\mu}M$) exhibited moderate antioxidant activity. Furthermore, levels of the eleven polyphenolic compounds from three different types of mulberry seeds were quantified by HPLC, and their contents were as follows: rutin (311~60.0 mg/100 g)> quercitrin (7.2~34.2 mg/100 g)> (+)-dihydroquercetin (13.2~33.1 mg/100 g)> quercetin (15.8~19.5 mg/100 g)> 4-prenylmoracin (10.5~43.3 mg/100 g)> isoquercitrin (5.8~15.4 mg/100 g)> chlorogenic acid (0.0~15.3 mg/100 g)> moracin (4.7~7.2 mg/100 g)> procatechuic acid (0.0~11.6 mg/100 g)> (+)-dihydrokaempferol and trans-resveratrol (<0.1 mg/100 g). The 'Daesungppong' mulberry seeds among the three cultivars had higher flavonoid contents, such as rutin and quercetin derivatives, while the 'Iksuppong' seeds had the highest contents of phenolic acids and moracin derivatives. 'Cheongilppong' had lower amounts of polyphenolic compounds than the other two mulberry seeds. These results indicate that mulberry seeds containing antioxidant polyphenolic compounds may be potentially useful sources of anti-diabetic, anti-hypertensive, and anti-aging agents for functional foods and cosmetics.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.93-97
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• 2004

We investigate the effect of enzyme pretreatment using protease, carbohydrase, and lipase on improvement of sludge treatment efficiency by measuring SCOD and TCOD. The enzyme-pretreatment increases SCOD of excess sludge. In addition, the amount of sludge reduction during digestion, in terms of SCOD and TCOD, are enhanced by enzyme-pretreatment. Among pretense, carbohydrase, and lipase, pretense showed the best enhancement of the sludge treatment efficiency. Sludge digestion followed by ozone and enzyme treatments showed more effective sludge treatment when compared with ozone treatment alone. Therefore, we expect that enzyme pretreatment can be used as a useful tool for enhancing the sludge treatment efficiency.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.99-132
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• 1992

Polypeptide has been used broadly as an active ingredient in cosmetics We thought it is very important to investigate the adsorption behavior of polypeptide in order to pre-estimate the effect of these polypeptides. For the study of polypeptide adsorption, we have investigated complex formation of basic homopolypeptides, poly(L-proline) Form I [PLP(I)], Form II [PLP(II)] and poly(4-hydroxy-L-proline) (PHLP) with acidic homopolypeptides, poly(L-glutamic acid) (PLGA), poly(D-glutamic acid) (PDGA) and poly(L-aspartic acid) (PLAA) through hydrogen bonding in a hydroalcoholic medium with viscometer, 1ight scatter, pH meter and circular dicroism (CD). The polypeptides used in this study have helical structure in some conditions. The result exhibited that al 1 the complexes were formed as the composition of basic/acidic homopolypeptide : L:2 irrespective of the complex systems used. A more favorable complex is formed in the PLP(II)-PLGA system than PHLP-PLGA because PLP(II) has a more flexible helical conformation, whereas PHLP has a more rigid helical conformation. The right-handed helix PLGA formed the complex favorably and quickly with the left-handed helix PLP(II), whereas the left-handed helix PDGA formed the complex favorably with the right-handed helix PLP(I). The effect of side chain of the acidic homopolypeptides on the complexation was also studied. The result showed that more favorable condition for the complexation was PLGA-PLP(II) system which has longer side chain at acidic homopolypeptide than PLAA - PLP(II). All the above facts were well supported by CD measurement for the complex systems. By the CD spectra for the complexes we could deduce the conformational change of each homopolypeptide in the complexes On the basis of the above results, we performed the adsorption test of PLP(I, II) and PHLP on the hair having a left-handed helix. The adsorption amount of each polypeptide was analyzed by HPLC. The result showed that PLP(I) was adsorbed more than PLP(II), PLP(II) was adsorbed more than PHLP on the hair. On adsorbing polypeptides having a helical structure on the hair through hydrogen bonding, it could be concluded that the helical polypeptides having the opposite directional structure to the hair are adsorbed more than those having the same directional structure with the hair and also the polypeptides having a flexible conformation are adsorbed more than those having a rigid conformation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.159-165
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• 2004

This study described about method that forms liquid crystal gel (LCG) by main ingredient with hydrogenated lechin (HL) in O/W emulsion system. Result of stability test is as following with most suitable LCG's composition. Composition of LCG is as following, to form liquid crystal, an emulsifier used 4.0wt% of cetostearyl alcohol (CA) by 4.0wt% of HL as a booster. Moisturizers contained 2wt% of glycerin and 3.0wt% of 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG). Suitable emollients used 3.0wt% of cyclomethicone, 3.0wt% of isononyl isononanoate (ININ), 3.0wt% of cerpric/carprylic triglycerides (CCTG), 3.0wt% of macademia nut oil (MNO) in liquid crystal gel formation. On optimum conditions of LCG formation, the pHs were formed all well under acidity or alkalinity conditions (pH=4.0-11.0). Considering safety of skin, pH was the most suitable 6.0${\pm}$1.0 ranges. The stable hardness of LCG formation appeared best in 32 dyne/$\textrm{cm}^2$. Particle of LCG is forming size of 1-20$\mu\textrm{m}$ range, and confirmed that the most excellent LCG is formed in 1-6$\mu\textrm{m}$ range. According to result that observe shape of LCG with optical or polarization microscope, LCG could was formed, and confirmed that is forming multi -layer lamellar type structure around the LCG. Moisturizing effect measured clinical test about 20 volunteers. As a result, moisturizing effect of LCG compares to placebo cream was increased 36.6%. This could predicted that polyol group is appeared the actual state because is adsorbed much to round liquid crystal droplets to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. It could predicted that polyol group is vast quantity present phase that appear mixed because is adsorbed to round liquid crystal to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. This LCG formation theory may contribute greatly in cosmetics and pharmacy industry development.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.181-187
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• 2004

Preparations of mesoporous materials using various templates and their applicability have been intensively investigated for many years. We studied on synthesizing mesoporous Ti02 with pores in which sensitive compounds having weak physico-chemical properties such as thermal or UV irradiation and low solubility in solvent are trapped. Prior to trapping OMC in the pores of mesoporous titania, OMC was nano-emulsified in O/W system using Lecithin. Thereafter the OMC was trapped in the pores of mesoporous titania using sol-gel method. Main focus of this work is to prepare OMC-trapped mesoporous titania and to trace the stability and solubility of nano-emulsified OMC in the pores of mesoporous titania, and compared with that of mesoporous silica. OMC-trapped mesoporous Inorganic-Organic hybrid titania showed higher factors in sun protecting and a skin penetration phenomenon was reduced.