• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.342-349
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• 2018

In this study, the physicochemical properties, emulsifying capacity, moisture content and cytotoxicity of the composite material produced by transesterification reactions of the olive oil (olive oil esters) were investigated for cosmetic applications. Olive oil esters with short (S) and long (L) reaction times were studied. From the TLC-image analysis, composition ratios of the olive oil esters S were found to be 5.2, 24.1, 46.4, and 21.9% for mono-, di-, tri-glyceride, and fatty acid ethyl ester, respectively. Those of the olive oil esters L were 4.1, 24.7, 40.6, and 28.8% for mono-, di-, tri-glyceride, and fatty acid ethyl ester, respectively. The iodine value, acid value, saponification value, unsaponified matter, refractive index, and specific gravity were determined and purity tests were also carried out and normalized to establish standards and testing methods for using olive oil esters in cosmetics. To evaluate their emulsifying capacities, the O/W emulsion was prepared without surfactants and the formation of the emulsified particles were confirmed. After 5 days of applying the olive oil esters to human skin, the skin moisture retention was improved by 13.1% from the initial state. For the evaluation of toxicity on human skin cells, the olive oil esters showed 90% or more of the cell viability at $0.2-200{\mu}g/mL$. These results suggested that olive oil esters can be applied as natural/non-toxic ingredients to cosmetics industries.

• Analytical Science and Technology
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.160-167
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• 2015

This study aims to develop a new analytical method to detect zinc pyrithione, the ingredient of cosmetics appointed as restricted ingredients and used as preservatives.. The analytical method was based on data gathered from the relevant literature. Information about the amounts of these ingredients was researched in order to select the base-matrix materials used to validate the analytical method. After selecting and preparing the base-matrix materials, the analytical method was validated by method validation procedures. The analytical method was verified first by inter-laboratory validation and then through analyzing the cosmetics sold in the market. Based on the results of this study, guidelines are proposed for the analysis of restricted ingredients in cosmetics, which will provide a method to test the cosmetics circulating in the Korean market. The use of the proposed guidelines will increase the quality of the cosmetics as well as the safety of human health, which will enhance the competitiveness of the Korean cosmetics industry and lead to an increase in the exportation of cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.3
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• pp.219-224
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• 2012

European Union prohibited the marketing of cosmetic products containing constituents that have been examined through animal experiments. Thus, non-animal test models are needed to replace animal experiments. The reconstructed skin models are important as a test system for cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and medical device safety testing. In the present study, we tried to develop an optimal skin equivalent model containing basement membrane and epidermis. For this purpose, we used mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) and/or preadipocytes as well as fibroblasts as the dermal matrix cells. The formation of basement membrane and epidermis was verified by immunohistochemical stains. Among various models, the epidermis was thickest when MSCs were used in the dermal matrix. Furthermore, PCNA and involucrin distribution showed that dermal matrix with MSCs resembled human skin. Therefore, skin equivalents with MSCs could be developed as a non-animal test model to replace animal experiments.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.3 s.52
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• pp.245-251
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• 2005

Safety is one of the key issue in the regulation of cosmetics. Cosmetic Act deals with it in Korea. The guidance for the testing cosmetic ingredients and their safety evaluation are prepared by Korea Food and Drug Administration. Ultraviolet radiation could Induce skin damage, edema, erythema, photoaging, immune dysfunction and skin cancer. Ultraviolet radiation is classified as Group 2A(probably carcinogenic to humans) by International Agenry for Reaserch on Cancer(IARC). The in vitro methodologies for evaluating the toxic potential of ingredients reported in the literature have not yet been sufficiently validated for use in areas other than the study for mutagenicity/genotoxicity, for pre-screening for severe irritancy, for screening of phototoxicity and for evaluating the percutaneous absorption. The 3T3 neutral red uptake photoxicity test (3T3 NRU PT) was accepted as OECD toxicity guideline in 2002. The 3T3 NRU PT is an in vitro method based on a comparison of the cytotoxicitv of a chemical when tested in the presence and in the absence of exposure to a non-cytotoxic dose of UVA/visible light.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.211-216
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• 2016

Micronucleus test is genotoxicity assay for detection of micronuclei in the cytoplasm of interphase cells. The reduction and replacement of in vivo toxicity testing on animals require the development of in vitro models to predict the genotoxicity or other tests for cosmetic products. In this study, we evaluated a genotoxicity assay for topically applied chemicals using a three-dimensional human reconstructed skin model, KeraSkin$^{TM}$. Two genotoxins, mitomycin C (MMC) and methyl methanesulfonate (MMS), induced significant dose-related increases in cytotoxicity and micronuclei induction in the skin model. In contrast, two non-genotoxins, 4-nitrophenol (4-NP) and trichloroethylene (TCE), induced cytotoxicity but not micronucleus formation. In conclusion, micronucleus test using human skin model may be useful for predicting in vitro genotoxic potentials of cosmetic products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.183-189
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• 2018

Blue light is the highest energy wavelengths in the visible light region and induces skin aging and active oxygen. Studies on harmful mechanism of skin are under way. Research on blue light blocking materials in cosmetics and formulation studies are in the early stage, and the test methods related to blue light blocking measurement are not established. The blue light blocking efficacy was established by referring to the test method of the sunscreen in vitro test(COLIPA guideline, ISO 24443, FDA Final Rule on Sunscreen Testing and Labeling). The blue light blocking effect was evaluated for 17 kinds out of 27 kinds of sunscreen raw materials suggested in KFDA guideline. The Effect was 14.97% for zinc oxide and 16.32% for bishexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, 35.47% for methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, and 65.96% for titanium dioxide. In addition, the effect of micro-titanium dioxide was twice as high as that of the nano-titanium dioxide. The results suggested that the light blocking effect test method can be used to search for blue light blocking materials and study cosmetic formulations.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.12-18
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• 2015

Skin is an emerging target tissue in pharmaceutical and cosmetic science. Safety assessment for dermal toxicity is a critical step for development of topically applicable pharmaceutical agents and ingredients in cosmetics. Urgent needs exist to set up toxicity testing methods for dermal safety, and identification of novel biomarkers for pathological cutaneous alteration is highly required. Here we will discuss if vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) has a potential as a biomarker for dermal impairment. Experimental and clinical evidences for induction of keratinocytic VEGF under pathological conditions will be reviewed.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.134-146
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• 1997

Consumers have recently preferred to purchase extensive UV intercepting products, which are waterproof and free from side effects on skin. Testing Cytoroxicity in SR method, cell survivial ratio of UV-B interceptors decreased above 0.08W/V%, and so did that of UV-A interceptors above 0.06W/V%. Also, Patch-test of inorganic UV interceptors resulted in no skin irritation even below 10.0 and 11.25. UV interceptors in the sunlight showed yellowish discoloration in 5 to 14 days. In absorption curves, UV-B was most suitable for Octyl methoxycinnamate and UV-A for Butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane. Fro this reason, Nylonpoly UVA/UVB the material of OMC and BMDM coated with Nylon & polyethylene, was used as the organic UV interceptor. And zinc oxide and titanium dioxide was used as inorganic UV ibterceptors. The appropriate mixture ratio of ZnO and TiO2 was 6 to 4.6% of ZnO, 4% of TiO2 and 5% of Nylonpoly UVA/UVB were all combined with our sunscreen cream. The SPF value of in-vivo applied to a guinea pig was 34.9 and that of in-vivo was 38.5. Cyclomerhicone and dimerthicone were used in water-in-Silicone system. Ceryl diverhicone and sorbitan sesquioleate were used as emulsifiers and MgSO4, 7H2O, Mg-stearate/Mg-Al-stearate copolymer as emulsification stabilizers. In practical application, each SPF duration of O/W type and W/S type containing sunscreen cream of the same content showed that W/S type of sunscreen cream was 5 times as durable as the other. This product is fit for using in swimming, climbing or skiing. This research is to minimize skin trouble used by UV interceptors and to make one with proper softness, skin safety and UV intercepting efficiency.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.2 s.57
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• pp.69-74
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• 2006

Selaginella tamariscina with the popular Korean name Keoun Back, is a traditional medicinal plant for therapy of advanced cancer patients in the Orient. In this study, we evaluated anti-aging activity of S. tamariscina using processed technology and investigated diverse biological activities of processed S. tamariscina (PST) as an anti-aging ingredient of cosmetics. PST, heated with sand, used to different purpose compared with origin in medicine. PST raises total phenol concentration and enhances the DPPH radical scavenging activity. For testing intracellular ROS scavenging activity, the cultured human dermal fibroblasts were analyzed by increase in dichlorofluorescein (DCF) fluorescence upon exposure to UVB $20 mJ/cm^2$ after treatment of PST. UVA-induced MMP-1 expression in human dermal fibroblasts was reduced in a dose-dependent manner by PST. Taken together, 4hese results suggest that PST may act as an anti-aging agent by preventing the skin cell from damage induced by UV irradiation, and imply that PST may be useful as a new ingredient for anti-aging cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.89-96
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• 2013

This study demonstrate that polymeric microspheres composed of poly (ethylene adipate) (PEA) and poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) can encapsulate and remarkably stabilize Broussonetia kazinoki root extract. We compared the long-term stability and the activity of Broussonetia kazinoki root extract in polymeric microspheres fabricated with different polymer ratio of PEA and PMMA. PMMA was incorporated to the PEA microsphere in order to reinforce the physical strength of microsphere, and there was no noticeable negative effect on the activity of Broussonetia kazinoki root extract. Optical microscope (OM), polarized microscope (PM), and scanning electron microscope (SEM) results showed that PMMA incorporated microspheres were very spherical and had smoothsurface. On the other hand, PEA microspheres showed relatively irregular morphology due to the low physical strength of microspheres. Moreover, the mushroom tyrosinase activities were measured for testing the inhibitory activity of Broussonetia kazinoki root extract encapsulated in polymeric microspheres, and these microspheres showed the effective suppression of mushroom tyrosinase activity. Consequently, polymeric microspheres produced in this study may be beneficial for the research of improving stability and protecting labile substances incorporated into the polymeric microspheres.