• The Journal of Korean Medical History
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.63-71
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• 2017

Traditional Asian medicine has an extensive evidence base built upon thousands of years of experience within Asia, of curing various diseases. Only recently, within the past two centuries, have modern medical scientists developed interest in traditional Asian medicine. Asian Medicine seems to be regarded only as an adjunctive medicine and viewed as alargely un-proven alternative medicine to complement western medicine, used in some cases to establish a new paradigm of "integrative medicine". This article reviews how Korean herbal cosmetics emerged by applying traditional Asian medicine to the science of cosmetics. The characteristics of Korean herbal cosmetics are examined through examples of history, concepts and traditions. With the advancements in biotechnology, studies are now being conducted on the dermatological effects and processing methods of herbal ingredients, including ginseng. The authors explain the current research on the identification on the active ingredients of herbs, extraction methods, and bio-processing of ingredients to improve the biological efficacies of herbs on the skin. A summary of studies focused on modern reinterpretations of ageing theories, such as 'Seven year aging cycle', are provided. In conclusion, the development of Korean cosmetics products are based on the accumulated knowledge of thousands of years of experience including; 1) practical heritage of traditional Asian medicines such as Donguibogam; 2) excellent medicinal plants, such as ginseng, which are native to Korea; and 3) innovative attempts to modernize materials, processes, and principles.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.9 no.12
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• pp.201-211
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• 2009

Korean middle-aged women, who are securing economic stability of their own along with the national economic growth, have had much concern in their outward appearance. Especially, middle-aged women's concern of appearance triggered by their various social/leisure activities and appreciation of aesthetic sense leads to the interest in their outward appearance, thus naturally stimulating their purchasing sentiments. This paper attempts to identify the level of middle-aged women's concern of appearance and analyze how this level of concern affects their behavior in purchasing cosmetic products. Our analytical findings include: 1. From the t-test and distributional analysis of points of each factor on the group, the high-interest type 1 (108 persons) and low-interest type 2 (91 person) in terms of 'concern of appearance' turned out to exist. 2. Five factors of cosmetics-purchasing behavior were derived that are fashion-leading type, compulsive buying type, brand-dependent type, pondering type, planned buying type and loyal-to-brand type. 3. Cosmetics-purchasing behavior varied according to the subjects' level of concern of appearance.

• BMB Reports
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• v.43 no.7
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• pp.461-467
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• 2010

Natural products with non-toxic and environmentally friendly properties are good resources for skin-whitening cosmetic agents when compared to artificial synthetic chemicals. Here, we investigated the effect of glyceollin produced to induce disease resistance responses of soybean to specific races of an incompatible pathogen, phytophthora sojae, on melanogenesis and discussed their mechanisms in melanin biosynthesis. We found that glyceollin inhibits melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity in B16 melanoma cells without cytotoxicity. To elucidate the mechanism of the effect of glyceollin on melanogenesis, we conducted western blot analysis for melanogenic enzymes such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2. Glyceollin inhibited tyrosinase and TRP-1 protein expression. Additionally, glyceollin effectively inhibited intracellular cAMP levels in B16 melanoma cells stimulated by $\alpha$-melanocyte stimulating hormone ($\alpha$-MSH). These results suggest that the whitening activity of glyceollin may be due to the inhibition of cAMP involved in the signal pathway of $\alpha$-MSH in B16 melanoma cells.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.317-322
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• 1996

Galactooligosaccharlde (GOS) is a kind of functional oligosaccharides that can be used as a food ingredient and a cosmetic additive. In this paper, characteristics of GOS synthesis by cellulase, using lactose as a substrate, were investigated. Penicillium funiculosum cellulose was found to be the most efficient for GOS production among six cellulose tested. The optimum pH and temperature for GOS production were 5.0 and $50^{\circ}C$, respectively. There was an optimum ratio of lactose concentration to enzyme loading; the value was 10 (w/w). The reaction pattern of P. funiculosum cellulase is consistent with that of microbial ${\beta}$-galactosidase which shows transgalactosylation activity. Amounts of GOS produced from 20% (w/v) lactose after 6 h incubation at $50^{\circ}C$, were 23% (w/w) based on total saccharide in the reaction medium. The GOS % increased with initial lactose concentration in the range of 5 to 20%. The products mainly consisted of a trisaccharide and tetrasaccharide from HPLC and TLC analysis. Among enzymes involved in transgalactosylation reaction, high molecular weight fractions over 50,000 Da, presumably ${\beta}$-glucosldase, were considered to be responsible for GOS production. Using this cellulose, a direct synthesis of galactosyl g1ucoside including GOS could be readily achieved with lactose as a galactosyl donor.

• Mass Spectrometry Letters
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.18-22
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• 2017

Products containing any one or more of 26 fragrance allergens likely to cause contact allergies, are required under the 2008 domestic cosmetic law to be labeled when their concentrations exceed a certain range. This study focuses on the comparison and development of analytical methods based on headspace-solid phase micro extraction (HS-SPME) and liquid-liquid extraction (LLE) methods followed by GC-MS/MS for 24 of the fragrance allergens excepting for two natural materials in water samples. Using the developed HS-SPME method, 15 of the 24 fragrance allergens were analyzed and 9 compounds which have relatively low $logK_{OW}$ values (below about 2.5) were not extracted, and the correlation coefficient ($r^2$) of the calibration curve for quantification showed linearity of 0.9969 or more, and the method detection limits (MDL) and the limits of quantification (LOQ) were $0.078{\sim}0.582{\mu}g/L$ and $0.261{\sim}1.940{\mu}g/L$, respectively. In the case of using the optimized LLE method, all 24 fragrance allergens were analyzed, and the correlation coefficient ($r^2$) of the calibration curve for quantification showed linearity of 0.9957 or more, MDL and LOQ were $0.020{\sim}0.138{\mu}g/L$ and $0.065{\sim}0.440{\mu}g/L$, respectively.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Near Infrared Spectroscopy Conference
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• 2001.06a
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• pp.1157-1157
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• 2001

Yeast, Kurtzurnanomyces sp. I-11, produces biosurfactant, mannosyl erythritol lipid (MEL), from soya oil. The properties of biosurfactant MEL include low-toxicity and high biodegradability. MEL provides new possibilities for a wide range of industrial applications, especially food, cosmetic, pharmaceutical fields and chemicals for biotechnology. In the fermentation process, techniques of measuring and controlling substrates and products are important to obtain high productivity with optimum concentrations of substrate and product in the culture broth. The measurement system for the concentrations of soya oil and MEL in the fermentation process was developed using near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS). Soya oil and MEL in the culture broth were extracted with ethyl acetate and NIR spectra was carried out between the second derivative NIR spectral data at 1312 and 2040 nm and MEL concentrations obtained using a thin-layer chromatography with a flame-ionization detector (TLC/FID) method. A calibration equation for soya oil was results of the validation of the calibration equation, good agreement was observed between the results of the TLD/FID method and those of the NIRS method for both constituents. NIR method was applied to the measurement of the concentrations of MEL and soya oil in the practical fermentation and good results were obtained. The study indicates that NIRS is a useful method for measurement of the substrate and product in the glycolipid fermentation.

• Journal of the Korean Magnetic Resonance Society
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.105-114
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• 2006

Purpose: We achieved high resolution MR imaging and spectra of human skin in vitro with using a 14.1 T MRI/MRS system, and evaluated the hydration effect of various cosmetic products by measuring the skin's. moisture concentration. Materials and Methods: We used the Bruker 14.1 T MRI/MRS system with a vertical standard bore that was equipped with a DMX spectrometer gradient system (200 G/cm at a maximum 40 A), RF resonators (2, 5 and 10 mm) and Para Vision software. Spin echo and fast spin echo pulse sequences were employed for obtaining the high resolution MR images. The 3D-localized point resolved spectroscopy (PRESS) method was used to acquire the MR spectra. Results: The high resolution MR images and spectra of human skin in vitro were successfully obtained on a 14.1 T system. The water concentration of human skin after applying a moisturizer was higher than that before applying a moisturizer. Conclusions: The present study demonstrated that the high-resolution MR images and spectra of human skin from a high field NMR instrument could be applicable to evaluating the hydration state of the stratum corneum.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.59-74
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the skin type of $20{\sim}30’s$ women that use skin type test paper of cosmetic companies and usual using condition for the cosmetics. The result is as follows; The research target is $20{\sim}30’s$ woman in Seoul area, around capital city area and Geonra province, we surveyed the difference among the group, after dividing the groups with job, monthly income. As the result of research on the usual using cosmetics and cleansing products, $20{\sim}30’s$ woman mostly have toilet water, lotion and foam type cleansing product and use them. As the result of consciousness of skin type combination skin type is 46.1%, dry skin type is 23%, oily skin type is 15%, sensitive skin type is 9%, normal skin type is 7%. To compare results of skin type test paper of cosmetics companies with consciousness of skin type, result of skin type test paper of cosmetics companies was different consciousness of skin type. The result of skin type test paper of B company is same as consciousness of skin type is 31.2% and this result among cosmetics companies was appeared high ratio. Among the results from 3 companies, the rate that all result for 1 person's skin type are accord, is just 8%. 2 companies among them have matching rate of 42%. Most of all, each results of skin type test paper of cosmetics companies was appeared difference. This result show the problem of objectivity about skin type test paper of cosmetics companies that they using it.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.183-187
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• 2015

The electron donating ability, elastase inhibitory, procollagen synthesis and Matrix metalloprotease-1 (MMP-1) activities were measured in order to verify the anti-wrinkle properties of extracts from Buplerum falcatum as a functional ingredient for cosmetic products. Electron donating ability and elastase inhibition activities were 80 and 52% at a dose of $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ of B. falcatum 70% ethanol extract. Pro-collagen synthesis was increased with the increase concentration of B. falcatum extract on CCD-986sk in addition to decrease the amount of protein of MMP-1. The results suggested that B. falcatum extract can be used to reduced electron donating ability, elastase, pro-collagen synthesis and MMP-1 activity and is a potential candidate for cosmedical materials.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.439-450
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• 2015

Akebia quinata fruit(AQF), as identified in the preceding paper, polyphenols and other phenolic components of saponin also has similar or higher levels. The purpose of this study is to analyze the effect of akebia quinata fruit extract, well-known for soothing, anti-oxidizing effects, on the improvement of the moisture, sebum, melanin, erythema content of facial skin. As a result of measuring DPPH radical scavenging activity to examine independent anti-oxidation of AQF, there was a slight scavenging activity. Compared to before the usage of cream, a group who used cream with akebia quinata fruit extract showed a very slight increase in the moisture content and slight decrease in the sebum, melanin, erythema on their faces after 4 weeks of tests, indicating that there was some statistically significant changes found. This study proves that the akebia quinata fruit(AQF) extract has a positive effect on the overall improvement of facial skin and it also implies that the akebia quinata fruit extract has high potential as an ingredient of cosmetic products.