• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.14 no.5
• /
• pp.66-77
• /
• 2010

This study aimed at examining the pattern and detailed formation of corset look which has established itself as a sort of fashion look as people began to wear underwear as part of outer garment. The study tried to present basic materials helpful for developing and creating the design and pattern of corset look. First, the collected corset look of each brand was copied and then developed. According to the result, corset look's representative silhouette turned out to be hourglass silhouette that tightened up the waist with an emphasis on expressing the beauty of the body. However, unlike corsets of the past, corsets today are being created with focus on the design rather than using lots of incision lines. Second, The bust girth of corset look items turned out to have little function to compress and deform the body like the corset of the past that was far smaller than the body. In addition, the corset style that used the lines of corset alone as motive turned out to have the larger waist girth. Third, the dismantling of collected corset look showed that the materials and formation features of corset look have become simple and that the simplification of corset look has made the items of corset look everyday clothes which can be worn practically and universally.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.5
• /
• pp.72-86
• /
• 2002

Recently the fashion design has been expressed mixing trend of antipodal concept. There are shown disorganization of existing standard with eclectism, pursued more sensational fashion by the sense of unease. And there are spreaded body exposure in producing on a commercial scale for sex, are shown the phenomenon by wearing innovation inner-wear in private area are exposed out. The purpose of this study are to consider preponderantly the fashion design using corset, shown up as the motive of costume design from 1990's to 2002's, define the character of molding. and extend the width of understanding of modern fashion. The results of the study are as follows: 1. The trend of deconstructionism as one line of fashion world in the 1990's make into outer garment of inner-wear, corset has been using the main item of infra costume. The past corset was existed innerwear, but it is revived various forms by transforming outer garment of body expression consciously. 2. Corset look is shown double faced factory of the beauty of tradition and decadence, vulgarity and nobility, concealment and exposure, and are expressed boldly the free consciousness outer about woman's sex with the improvement of woman's social position. 3. The molding character of Corset look divided Eroticism, Fetishism, Deconstructionism. Futurism. The trend of Corset look design is the emphasized sexual part of lace-up and cutting line of corset, and various details of see-through, kitsch, glitter look. Therefore, the trend of Corset look will be applied the modern fashion and used as motif of new design, affected the inspiration of more developed design with grafting of up-to-date fabrics and processing technique.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.159-170
• /
• 2006

This study aims to examine the expressive properties of contemporary corset, and to develop designs and produce patterns for corset look clothes. Through these courses, it develops a pattern that may all meet the exactness, functionality and aesthetic aspects of a pattern and provides materials that may help create a corset look design in the course of actuallymaking a garment. Based on the elements mentioned above, a total of three (3) real works were developed and their patterns were created. The patterns include two (2) flat patterns and one (1) patterns using the draping method. The results found in the course of creating works and patterns are as follows: With new corset look designs, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of the body In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becoming outerwear may be a new idea in dress designing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.8
• /
• pp.48-59
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this research is to develop a basic pattern of corset look taking into consideration characteristics of human body and fit, by transforming 3 dimensional information obtained from draping of standard body type of women in their 20s, which constitute the biggest consumer group of corset look in Korea, on the basis of body shape of women best reflecting 3 dimensional characteristics. In order to develop a corset look pattern suitable for standard body type of women in their 20s, wear tests of A, B, and C types of patterns in terms of the bust in the standard body type that bust circumference 86.7cm and chest circumference 87.0cm were evaluated best. Taking into consideration above findings, fer the purpose of developing a corset look pattern having an excellent fit and reflecting characteristics of Korean women in their 20s with standard body type, a corset look pattern was designed with proper ease calculated by draping incorporated, and through alteration and complementation of such a pattern, a study pattern was produced. This study is expected to provide tips for standard body type women in their 20s with smaller bust circumference to choose clothing allowing for a better fit able to make up for weakness of their body, while presenting to clothing makers ways of designing and size-setting in terms of characteristics of body type of these consumers.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2002.10a
• /
• pp.79-79
• /
• 2002

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.10
• /
• pp.11-23
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to express the sexuality of feminism in the modern fashion. As for the methods of research, literary research was carried out using reference based on feminism history and sexuality concept and demonstrative analysis was undertaken using 2000's collections photographs. In the results of that, the sexuality of gender resistance feminism is featured by three key words: sado-masochism sexuality, bi sexuality and hetero sexuality. First, sado-masochism sexuality shows fetish look and dominatrix look shown in the strong attitudes. Sado-masochism sexuality is setting fetishes such as mask, whip, chain, metallic materials and tight leather boots. Second, bi sexuality presents mannish look of soft and feminie style's slim pants suit with ruffle, flounce and decorated detail blouse. and fetish look wearing of sexual symbol clothes such as corset and bustier. Third, hetero sexuality represent glamour look which exposure and emphasis of breasts, hips and other sexual symbols.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.7 s.107
• /
• pp.152-166
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to make patterns for lingerie look after examining expressive characteristics and constructive elements of lingerie look. As underwear became outerwear, position of wearing, materials, and details had changed, and the phenomenon to expose one's body has increased. The constructive elements found in the lingerie look were classified into silhouette, fastening, dart, and cutting line. Many of corset looks revealed cutting lines such as diagonal, perpendicular, and horizon. Brassiere look used perpendicular rutting lines or horizontal cutting lines passing through the bust point in order to highlight the volume by adding darts. There were styles Of chemise looks that used princess lines or separately added a brassier on the breast. Based on the examination of the elements, a total of four apparel works were created, including one flat pattern and three draping patterns. With new infra-apparel designs and patterns, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of body. In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becomes outerwear may be a new idea of dress designing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.5 no.2
• /
• pp.35-48
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this research is to understand the importance and structure of underwear which is the closest cloth to the body. Scope of this research is from middle of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century. Firstly, I studied background of the times and change of women's status and duty. Secondly, I examined the outer garment closely by the ideal beauty of each period based on the study, and thirdly I looked into structure ways of underwear. Then lastly, I took a close look about the relation of outer garment and underwear, comparing with and researching both. I studied this research, focusing on corset, crinoline and bustle based on main characters such as reform and transform among several functions of underwear. The research results are such as follows. First of all, when women's social and economic status was subjected to men, women had worn corset and fashionable dresses even though there was many object movements and vices in women's garment. Secondly, according to those movements, the ideal beauty had changed little in the same sort emphasizing on breast and hip. Thirdly, structure method of underwear changed by ideal beauty and shape of outer garment. Due to increasing sports participation, improvement of women's position, achievement of practical use, women used more drawers and stopped wearing hoop. And the weight of underwear like combination and suspender attached to corset had decreased and advanced into the more practical way. Because of industrialization, function seemed to be granted by technology development, social position change of femininity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.5
• /
• pp.924-936
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this thesis is to discuss corsets that represent an undergarment that later became a popular outerwear. It discusses its forms and distinct characteristics to help create a unique fashion design and its execution. The scope of this study is limited to works from the 1990s to the present, and the materials for the literatures and exploratory study are fashion-related portfolios and the domestic and foreign fashion magazines. The results of this study are summarized as follows: The standard look of corsets in modern fashion can be classified into styles of glamour, revival, and dismantle. The materials used vary from traditional fabrics such as satin or lace to newly developed materials such as metal or glass. Its presentation can also differ in that it may be used as an accessory with additional details, as an outerwear, as an extra decorative layer, or as a revealing innerwear by open outerwear. Characteristics of these various looks of corsets are; first, it redefines the revival of the traditional corsets through introduction of its historic elements and its compromise. Second, glamorous and feminine images are maximized through drastic and direct exposure by using tight lacing, a waist nipper or garter belts that emphasize a woman's curve. Third, it represents borderless dismantlement through experimental and irregular images using unconventional materials, new execution techniques, or alteration from the standard forms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.6
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2010

The cultures and traditions of Asia has the roots so deep and it is the origin of inspiration. Therefore, it is easy to find a different inspiration when designing, expecially for Western designers who are seeking European tradition and its comparison. The most distinctive feature of the Asian look is non-structural and has no clear form close to the structure of the body or mathematical ratio, but is steric with 2-Dimensional planed textiles, and has a flexible, non-structural formative characteristic related to the movable body. This is base on the vision of the universe that regards the parts as the whole. From this research, generally studying about the Asian look and its non-structural formative characteristics. The study looked closely into the aesthetic value of non-structural formative characteristics formation, with basis on the large dress regulation system of the western reasoning and rationalism and mechanism. At first, my study pointed on the dressing functionalism or Neo-classism considering emotions, Anti-Western aspect observing surrealism dressing and expressionism dressing. Second, with men and women showing similar outer shape without the equivalent element such from wearing a corset, the sexism is abolished. Finally, the designers’ inner intention of art is being delivered, from the aspect that the expression of art, size and no waste of fabric shows effort of communicating with the world, giving value to the possibility of continuance.